GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Hesitation On Takeoff - PCV System Malfunction?
Jul 28, 2015
I have a 377 gti 2002 and just the other day i had some hesitation on take off. it sounded like the engine was cutting the fuel, at the time i had an o2 sensor code so i replaced the o2 and got new spark plugs while i was at it. it was still hesitating and cutting out so i figured it might be the maf because ive already replaced it once, i cleaned it and still doing the same things. i called my local vw/audi shop (audub) and he said it might be the pcv valve. i checked to see if there was air sucking in through the oil dip stick and the oil cap. its running just fine at idle and it seems that in first and second gear that its hesitating at 1000-2000 rpm and the higher gears are fine. could a leak cause this or is the pcv system bad?
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I got the car like that. When I take off hard there is a crack somewhere in the front. Then when I stop hard it cracks too. What could it be??? Sometype of bushing??
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Last week I had the Godspeen intercooler installed on my 05 Jetta GLI. I would say that since the install I have put about 300+ miles on the car so I would think that the computer has learned the additional air flow. I notice that if I'm cruising in 4th gear just below 3000 RPM's and punch it there is hesitation. It is quite noticeable because I have a full 3" inch exhaust so you can hear it hesitate for about a second and then kick in again and continue up the powerband. Do I need to get a good tune or has the computer just not learned it yet?
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So the motor has a new oil pump and pickup and was all cleaned out. Sludge is not the issue here. I'm running the royal purple filter ( the equivalent of mann 950/4) and royal purple 5w30. My heart dropped after the light came on on the first drive. I pulled out over and checked the oil and for leaks and... full with no leak. So I checked the temp and proceeded to drive home. I don't have an oil pressure gauge but I'm getting the bottom of the fill cap with oil so I know it's making it all the way to the top of the motor, and the motor is not loud or sounding starved.
Basically, I wanted a second opinion that it is most likely oil pressure sensor malfunction. Garrett 60 trim, feed and return lines are brand new and sufficient diameter.
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Well, driving down the road just like any other day. I go from 1st to 2nd gear. It feels like I missed a shift, no big deal decide to put it in 3rd. Missed 3rd gear...... weird, no big deal through it in 4th and was on my way. Got to a red light, no 1st or 2nd gear. Where 1st and 2nd gear are, it feels like there is nothing there when i tried to shift into gear. If I go into 3rd gear its now 1st gear, 4th gear is 2nd gear.Had a mechanic look at my car, and the linkage and clutch are fine. He feels that something minor broke inside the transmission.
A) What do you think might be broken?
B) How could this happen?
Driving my car like a baby, I am never hard on my clutch. No pre-warning, no bad sounds, and I have never had an issue with my transmission before. I am hoping I do not have to pull my transmission out but it looks like I may not have a choice...
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So my car is throwing a P0172 and when I start to get into the throttle, I get hesitation. I have replaced the plugs and the coil packs, and I tried unplugging the MAF which just made the car run worse. What could it be? Boost leak? Something else?
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Having issues with turning over but no start, sometimes takes up to five turns to start up, and hesitation on hwy in 6th gear. Fuel problem im pretty sure.
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I've been having trouble with my rear wiper since forever. Every time i try to use the washer fluid for the rear, it doesn't squirt right and fills up the motorized lock for the trunk and malfunctions the lock for a day or 2 until it drys. I had this same problem with my old 1.8t gti, just in that case i had to have the whole lock replaced due to the damage from the washer fluid (luckily the dealer payed for it).
I was thinking maybe swapping it out for the polo rear wiper on ecs tuning.
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I took my car in for a clutch install, everything was fine except the clutch slipping. I go to pick up my car and once the car warmed up it started bucking / limp mode while accelerating. Take it back to the mechanic and he thinks he didn't reset the throttle body. So he says that should be it and I pull away. Same thing. Leave it with him again and he replaces with "diag" coils and new plugs. Leave again, same thing. He tells me to get totally new coils and try that. I am thinking its a missed ground cable or messed up ECU or something. During all this not one code it thrown.
20th GTI 1.8T 6 speed, stock clutch, all stock
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I have a 04' Jetta 1.8T (AWP) my mods are APR Chip (91octane program) Forge 007 DV, APR TIP, NGK spark plugs, catback exhaust. This issue I am having pretty much started when i got it chipped and I've got it reflashed and I've even talked to people at APR and they are saying that it couldn't be a software issue. Anyhow the problem I am having is at partial throttle my car kind of hesitates a little at 5psi and when i let of the gas the car kind of hiccups a little.. but if i really punch it in every gear i hit 21-22psi no problem, the problem happens when I am driving normal and its really annoying.
I have switched several different N75 valves, I am running the stock one now, I've switched different DV's, i have switched my spark plugs and even put at APR turbo inlet pipe and i have checked for boost/vacuum leaks, I have no CEL...all this hasn't resolved my problem.. I don't know what else to do..
I was thinking about switching my MAF to see if it works, but then again if it was my MAF im sure I would have a CEL. I also was thinking about putting my N75 valve backwards even the DV backwards to see if it works?
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Recently purchased a 2005 Jetta GLI with 31,xxx miles on it. It is my second 1.8T. My first was very reliable, with never any issues even after the 100k mile mark and is the reason I didn't hesitate to buy another one. That, and the Recaro Edition GLI has always been one of my favorite cars.
So I've had it for about a month now and I've noticed on occasion a problem with cold starting. One weekend it sat for almost two days because we used our other car, and then again this morning it was particularly chilly here in Pittsburgh, about 35degrees F and it took me two starts to get it going.
I always turn the key to 'on' for a few seconds and let the fuel pressurize and all the indicators light up. It doesn't appear to be the battery as it turns over strong, though I have not yet confirmed this is a Voltage reading. Once it kicks over, it seems to be choking or sputtering, unable to get up to idle. The second time, it does it again but gets past it and all is well...
I'm checking records now to see if the 30k mile service was completed. perhaps a tune up and new plugs would work?
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So basically a couple months ago I picked up a 03 20th and GTI, I love the thing to pieces, recently I've got into drive it and I can watch my temp gauge steadily climb to 90 and stop. (before I go any further, I haven't gotten any overheat warnings or anything like that, I've just noticed my car is really hot all the time and the temp gauge goes to 90 within a minute or so of driving but doesn't go over). heat works fine, I've gone in the engine and tested a few things, tested the fans by jumping the connections, my large fan is dead but the small works fine. to my understanding, the large fan isn't used much unless it's really hot anyway. so I removed it and continued trying to find my problem, I felt the rad after letting the car run for a bit, the top half was hot but the bottom half was cool, took the hoses off and flushed my rad thinking maybe something was clogging it, water ran through fine, so I put it back together, put new coolant and tried again. same thing. so I took it for a rip and came back, obviously, the top hose and the rad were hot, but the bottom one was kinda warm. I looked for answers online but I can't seem to find anything like what I'm dealing with. the water pump seems to be working fine, I'm not sure how much flow is supposed to be coming through the Small hose at the top of the reservoir, But I checked it and it has a steady stream coming out of it. I've worked all the air out of the lines as well. The car isn't overheating and doesn't really pass the 90 mark, fans almost never come on but the small one kicks into low when I turn the AC on. which as far as I'm aware is what's supposed to happen.
The car feels like its running hot, checked everything I can think of. rad is hot on the top half and cools at the bottom, coolant has a steady flow back to the reservoir. no actual overheat warnings, I'm just wondering if these cars run hot normally or if I should be concerned.
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I have a 2002 1.8 Turbo VW GTI. Lately I've noticed that the car would hesitate slightly when slowing down. It would go up to at least 5000 RPM's or higher before it shifted over. The hesitation when slowing down and accelerating tend to happen when I drive. What to do, I went to the vw company they said if i want to change the transmission would cost me ~6k$ and f*ck me twice if if am paying 6k on a 2002 car.
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I am currently putting the interior of my car back together after a water issue force me to remove everything and have just put the carpet in. While stopping for the night, I noticed that all the overhead lighting doesn't work, the key fob can't lock the car, I can't open the trunk via the button on the door and even if I close all my doors, the car door open light stays on. However, the dash, vents, radio, gauges and headlights work, the car starts, the headlights and tail lights work, and the gas door button works. The ONLY thing I did was remove a #53 block relay that was wired into the rear fogs, since the way the fogs were wired up, they weren't working.
So I removed the relay and wired the fogs directly to the headlight switch. The wiring of the relay was, one wire going to the #9 pin on the headlight switch, one wire going to the 12V source and the last one going to a ground, nothing else. I didn't touch any other wiring or pull any wiring out. What my car is doing now? I was hoping to have it together to go to MIVE's chilifest tomorrow, but this electrical issue makes me uneasy about driving my car over an hour from home without a trusty tow vehicle to rescue me if it goes south.
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The car is a 2005.5 GLI (75k mi) w/ EvoTech Stg1 software, GHL stack intake, and an Iridium billet diverter valve.
Well today I was driving and the Malfunction Indicator Light on the dash came on and started blinking. When I stepped on the accelerator, the car felt like it had 1/4 the power and began shaking. The car idles kind of weakly, and feels like it has no power when you step on the gas. Also, when you step on the gas the car will shake. The strength of the shaking depends on how hard I press on the throttle, more throttle = more shaking. There is no shaking when it idles or when I have it cruising, only when accelerating.
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Bought a 04 GLI had the bad engine, had the engine installed sat at the shop for nearly a year. Towed car to my house to finish it and now I am running into their lack of knowledge and fixing their crap. Now the current issue...On the thermostat housing, a nipple that comes off the side has nothing connected and leaking coolant.
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I'm looking to upgrade my exhaust system. From down pipe on including a cat. P-chip and p-flow air filter installed on GLI
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I just threw a check engine light saying that there was increased air flow in the secondary air system...what does that mean????
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What these codes mean and what I need to do to fix this?
Codes:
P0141 o2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2
P0138 o2 sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2
P0036 H02S heater control circuit bank 1 sensor 2
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This is the code i pulled from Vag. Its not the gas cap...
VCDS Release 805.0: Generic OBD2
Mode 03: Emission related fault codes
Address 10 (Engine): 1 Fault Found:
P0456 - EVAP System: Very Small Leak Detected
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Chassis Type: 9M - VW Jetta IV
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75 76
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 RN
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 07510
Shop #: WSC 00066
3VWSE69M14M129075 VWZ7Z0D9541648
1 Fault Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0000 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 3B7 035 180 G
Component: RADIO 3CP 0007
Coding: 00031
Shop #: WSC 00066
1 Fault Found:
00856 - Radio Antenna
36-00 - Open Circuit
End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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