GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Hesitation After Intercooler Install
Jan 15, 2014
Last week I had the Godspeen intercooler installed on my 05 Jetta GLI. I would say that since the install I have put about 300+ miles on the car so I would think that the computer has learned the additional air flow. I notice that if I'm cruising in 4th gear just below 3000 RPM's and punch it there is hesitation. It is quite noticeable because I have a full 3" inch exhaust so you can hear it hesitate for about a second and then kick in again and continue up the powerband. Do I need to get a good tune or has the computer just not learned it yet?
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I took my car in for a clutch install, everything was fine except the clutch slipping. I go to pick up my car and once the car warmed up it started bucking / limp mode while accelerating. Take it back to the mechanic and he thinks he didn't reset the throttle body. So he says that should be it and I pull away. Same thing. Leave it with him again and he replaces with "diag" coils and new plugs. Leave again, same thing. He tells me to get totally new coils and try that. I am thinking its a missed ground cable or messed up ECU or something. During all this not one code it thrown.
20th GTI 1.8T 6 speed, stock clutch, all stock
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I need to know how to install an oil pressure gauge...or what is the location on the oil filter flange where this thing gets installed...
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Noticed a loss in fuel economy after a CAI install??
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I am wanting to install a oil pressure gauge to go along side my boost gauge in my double pod on top of my steering column, how to do this?
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So my car is throwing a P0172 and when I start to get into the throttle, I get hesitation. I have replaced the plugs and the coil packs, and I tried unplugging the MAF which just made the car run worse. What could it be? Boost leak? Something else?
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I have a 377 gti 2002 and just the other day i had some hesitation on take off. it sounded like the engine was cutting the fuel, at the time i had an o2 sensor code so i replaced the o2 and got new spark plugs while i was at it. it was still hesitating and cutting out so i figured it might be the maf because ive already replaced it once, i cleaned it and still doing the same things. i called my local vw/audi shop (audub) and he said it might be the pcv valve. i checked to see if there was air sucking in through the oil dip stick and the oil cap. its running just fine at idle and it seems that in first and second gear that its hesitating at 1000-2000 rpm and the higher gears are fine. could a leak cause this or is the pcv system bad?
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Having issues with turning over but no start, sometimes takes up to five turns to start up, and hesitation on hwy in 6th gear. Fuel problem im pretty sure.
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I have a 04' Jetta 1.8T (AWP) my mods are APR Chip (91octane program) Forge 007 DV, APR TIP, NGK spark plugs, catback exhaust. This issue I am having pretty much started when i got it chipped and I've got it reflashed and I've even talked to people at APR and they are saying that it couldn't be a software issue. Anyhow the problem I am having is at partial throttle my car kind of hesitates a little at 5psi and when i let of the gas the car kind of hiccups a little.. but if i really punch it in every gear i hit 21-22psi no problem, the problem happens when I am driving normal and its really annoying.
I have switched several different N75 valves, I am running the stock one now, I've switched different DV's, i have switched my spark plugs and even put at APR turbo inlet pipe and i have checked for boost/vacuum leaks, I have no CEL...all this hasn't resolved my problem.. I don't know what else to do..
I was thinking about switching my MAF to see if it works, but then again if it was my MAF im sure I would have a CEL. I also was thinking about putting my N75 valve backwards even the DV backwards to see if it works?
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Recently purchased a 2005 Jetta GLI with 31,xxx miles on it. It is my second 1.8T. My first was very reliable, with never any issues even after the 100k mile mark and is the reason I didn't hesitate to buy another one. That, and the Recaro Edition GLI has always been one of my favorite cars.
So I've had it for about a month now and I've noticed on occasion a problem with cold starting. One weekend it sat for almost two days because we used our other car, and then again this morning it was particularly chilly here in Pittsburgh, about 35degrees F and it took me two starts to get it going.
I always turn the key to 'on' for a few seconds and let the fuel pressurize and all the indicators light up. It doesn't appear to be the battery as it turns over strong, though I have not yet confirmed this is a Voltage reading. Once it kicks over, it seems to be choking or sputtering, unable to get up to idle. The second time, it does it again but gets past it and all is well...
I'm checking records now to see if the 30k mile service was completed. perhaps a tune up and new plugs would work?
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I have a 2002 1.8 Turbo VW GTI. Lately I've noticed that the car would hesitate slightly when slowing down. It would go up to at least 5000 RPM's or higher before it shifted over. The hesitation when slowing down and accelerating tend to happen when I drive. What to do, I went to the vw company they said if i want to change the transmission would cost me ~6k$ and f*ck me twice if if am paying 6k on a 2002 car.
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I want a 20th AE & have seen pics that say ESP on a button next to the hazard & others say ASR. I know that their was one option for the car: ESP. So what's ASR? Is one better than the other? Is it the same? I've heard that the ESP sucks for autocross. Is this true?
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I was driving at about 60mph in 4th gear and knocked it into 2nd and the rpm's hit the max and the car shut off and I have not been able to get it started. I have compression, fuel, and spark . I've checked oil and don't have any coolant in and nor did I have any oil in my coolant. When I try to start it it try's to start but won't turn over so .
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Driving home from work, I was about 5 minutes from home, got to a light only to not be able to go into 1st. I popped it into 2nd and drove home like that pretty much. Car will let me get into reverse and all other gears.
I can put the shifter towards first but it doesn't fully go in and when I gave it gas it would let me start to creep and then grind a little and pop out.
Heres a pic for your click .....
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I was searching but I can't find any DYI's on turning your Daytime Running Lights off on our cars. I don't feel like buying a euro switch right now. How to do this or has done this to their vw's?
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I was following the directions on the APR site to remove the ECU and it seems to not make sense. Saying the ECU is on the passenger side underneath the molding....
is the ECU in the center?
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I've had the leak for a long time now possibly from when I've gotten it... anyway when I first bought it I drove it a lot, like 8k miles in 6 months. During that time I went through a qt of oil about every week and a half. Now the last 3 months I've been barely driving it due to life changes so I'm barely putting oil in I'll go weeks sometimes of checking the level and it'll be fine. This leak has to relate with how often its driven and maybe hot?
I've had the car up multiple times to try and find the spot all I know is it's behind the engine below the valve cover gasket and above or near the turbo area(I've only owned my first VW this 20th for less then a yr so I'm still learning)
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I get up to go to work today and the car runs fine, a few hours later i get back in, try to put it in reverse, and nothing.. it wont let me shift in after i push it down. So i push it back in neutral and drive away.. every gear works fine, when i got home i took off the boot, tried to see if anything was loose, shake it a few times and out of nowhere first and second give. They were working perfectly 5 min before, and now they just feel really loose, but every other gear works fine, so now I have no reverse, 1st or 2nd. Did I just knock something out of alignment or is the problem a lot worse.
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I recently took out my headliner And my passenger's side seat. When I put everything back together, I turned the car on and the light came on. What can be the issue?
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After I got gas yesterday I drove about 10miles and the CEL light came on. The gas cap seemed a little loose so I am assuming it is that until I get it scanned soon. I was just wondering how long is stayed on if it wasn't cleared, I know some cars take a few days.
Does euroswitch installed have a problem with the audible headlights-are-still-on tone? If I leave my lights on, and exit the car no sound will sound. If I open it back up, then it will make a sound. Pretty useless.
Also, still looking on the best length for the Thule wind fairing for stock votex racks?
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So I just changed the valve cover fast but I am still getting oil onto the hood of my car. It did this before I changed the gasket as well. Is my valve cover bent maybe?
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