GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Have Fuel And Spark But 1.8t Won't Start
Mar 1, 2012
I have a perplexing problem and I'm at wits end trying to figure it out. I have an 03 GTI 1.8t 20th. The car has been running great until today when I replaced a few bolts with the front bumper and replaced a motor mount bolt on the passenger side mount. Everything was great until I did the work on it. I figured I had bumped the cam position sensor so I swapped it out for a new one and nothing still. I have verified I have spark and I definitely have fuel as it keeps drenching the spark plugs. I have cleaned the spark plugs and tried starting only for the car to violently sputter and misfire. No codes are being recorded and nothing else has been touched.
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So driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.
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Ok, car won't start. fuel pump not priming. tested the fuse, no power coming to it, fuse is good. even used another fuse. my flex connection on my dp blew out, rusty had a leak there for a while. in any case patched it up McGyver style till a new dp arrives. I backed the car off the ramps and shut it off to clean up. when I went to test drive it fuel pump wasn't priming.
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Alright, so upon starting my car earlier today, i was unable to get the fuel pump to turn on and send fuel to the motor, car will crank over and want to start, theres just no fuel getting to it. I'm going to replace the fuel pump relay and clean up the throttle body to cover the simple stuff. also i recently just installed a 3 inch down pipe, could have the o2 sensors shorted as a result of a bad knock?
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I don't think this is normal since my 01 2004.5 GLi go all the way... Note that i took this picture right after i "full" fueled the car (Just drove 2.3miles)...
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My 2005 VW GLI has a fuel smell when I turn on the car ... I think it might be running rich or something I don't know.. All I know is I think the fuel and air mixture is not right ... What should I do? what should I check? will a re-tune do anything?
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Noticed a loss in fuel economy after a CAI install??
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I am the original owner of a 337 with 292,800 miles, that's correct. I recently have had a fuel cutoff problem when the fuel tank gets less than 1/3 full. So I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter thinking that would solve the problem. It still stalls with a low fuel tank. It runs fine with more than a 1/2 tank. I have a Vagcom and no issues there.
Mystified at what could be the cause. Possibly fuel pressure regulator or vacuum line, is there a check valve somewhere in the fuel system that could be sticking, or what about an issue with the EVAP system? By the way this car still looks great, has been to the track many times as well as autocrossed, and still has the original clutch. Way to go VW. My race car is a spec miata.
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I have a 1997 GTI with 140K miles and standard transmission with a problem. I have taken it to a mechanic but to no avail. At random times, usually between 2nd and 3rd gear and sometimes in 1st gear, the car will jerk as if the car has no fuel being pumped to the engine. The mechanic told me that it could be several problems and recommended having the CO2 sensor changed. Since having the monitor changed the car was performing better but yesterday it died in traffic and did not start again for 30 minutes. At this point I do not want to pump any more money into the car before fully understanding the problem and potential solution. I also know that for a full diagnostic I will need to provide more information.
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I recently installed the apr turbo compressor inlet hose and eurojet smic on my 20th. I am running apr stg. 1 software on apr diverter valve. I also have 3" ghl turbo back exhaust. The three codes I am getting triggered shortly after the 2 upgrades I mentioned above we're installed. In detail the codes read specific:
-idle air control system: RPM higher than expected
-bank 1 mixture adaptation(add): system too lean
-turbo/super charger: overboost condition
When the car idles it seems to miss every now and then I think cause the fuel mixture. It also does idle higher than it did before (~900rpm) when the cel comes on it seems to fix the missing issue but not idle rpms. I am running the stock ko3s turbo and am soon planning on a Eurosport cold air intake. Am I harming my engine? Can I get the light to stay off?
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Happened on my mk6 now on the 20th! When I go to hit the switch for the gas tank release it is completely silent. Could that be the module? Half a tank left so not to worried about bringing it somewhere.
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My car wont start I have replaced the coilpacks, ecu relay, and had the immo defeated. Here is the vag log [URL] .....
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I get EPC and ASR upon cold start from time to time. Usually EPC goes away if I restart in a couple of minutes. ASR goes away after a while and restart.
So after car warms up and restarted, everything seems fine.
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The car is a 2004.5 GLI 1.8t. My car threw a CEL about two weeks ago. When i ran the codes it had one for the camshaft position sensor, one for the secondary air injection, and one for the camshaft position sensor. I cleared all the codes and the light came back on. The only code that came back was the camshaft position sensor P0340 i believe. I drove the car for a week and out of nowhere it just shut off on me while driving.
All the lights on my dashboard were flashing (traction control, battery light, engine light, etc.) I tried to jump it just to see if it would turn over and still nothing. I rolled it down a small hill and tryed to pop start it...still nothing. So I had it towed to my house and I replaced the cam position sensor AND the crankshaft position just to be safe. but now the car still won't start...
The engine is cranking and you can hear the pistons moving but it just can't get the juice to start. After failing to start it 3 times, i noticed a loud vacuum like noise coming from the engine when i turned the key off...but my car would do that every other morning when it actually started and didn't have the CEL, and then once it warmed up the sound would go away.
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So my 20th randomly won't start. It's happens about once a week or so. Most of the time when it happens the car cranks but doesn't start. Every once in awhile when I turn the key nothing happens at all and I have to keep trying and it'll crank and turn on. I also have no way to check for codes
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So I just recently got a 2005 GLI and I have been taking care of all the maintenance first before I start modding it. But there is one thing that I can't seem to figure out and I have searched but can't find this exact problem anywhere. My problem is I will have to turn the key several times before it starts, it does turn over but will not start until about the 4th or 5th attempt. This will happen maybe once a day but sometimes it will be fine all day long. Also the ESP light comes on once the car starts but doesn't come on if the car starts normally. Now I have seen people saying ABS/speed sensor might be bad if the ESP light comes on but mine isn't always on. Just when I have trouble starting it and then it goes off once I turn the car off and back on.
For those that don't feel like reading:
- Car sometimes (once in a day or two) turns over 4,5 times before it starts
- ESP light comes on when it has trouble starting
And of course, here is a picture of the new-to-me ride .....
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Car (04 GLI) was running completely fine for the past few months (since I bought it) and I get off work last night and it doesn't start. Lights/accessories turn on fine. Got the battery tested and it's fully charged. Alternator was tested 2 months ago and was perfect. I assume it's the ignition switch/starter. Had to get it towed. God that horrible noise when a lowered car is pulled onto a flatbed. The guy was nice and tried his hardest not to mess anything up. Will update once I find out the issues.
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Weirdest thing happened this morning. I went to start the car and the horn was immediately on. I figured maybe the steering wheel was stuck. Anyways it went for a bit then while I was on the highway it came on and stayed on. People were looking while I'm going 60mph with the horn blasting. Anyways it went off on its own. I checked the fuse today and it is blown. I no longer have a horn. Why this happened? I will take the steering wheel off tomorrow to check the grounds.
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My 97 toyota tacoma will not start. have fuel, changed plugs, has spark. still will not start.
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i have a 1991 s10 2.5 liter that will not start. i have spark, and fuel to the injector but nothing from the injector. how do i determine if the injector is bad or something is not telling it to spray?
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After replacing the intake manifold gasket for the second time, the truck would not start. Thought for sure it was my putting the distributor in wrong. After reviewing the forums, I am sure it is installed correctly. I have spark but no start. Engine cranks over nicely, but acts like it needs fuel. I hooked up a fuel gauge, turned on the key and get 56PSI. Lower than the 60 required. The pressure then slowly goes to 50 PSI. I pinched off the return hose and had the same readings. Pretty sure I need to replace the fuel pump. Is there anything else I need to check. I replaced the fuel pump a couple years ago with a Delphi unit. Maybe this is just a weak link for these trucks. My truck has a little over 100,000 miles on it.
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