GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Getting Too Many Error Codes?
Dec 24, 2009
Ok, It doesn't start, it tries to but doesn't get there, its not the battery the alternator, the starter or the battery terminals which goes to my second question...for error codes do I just pop them in google to see what they mean or is there a better site??....reason why I'm removing the lip its because its being towed to the mechanic, its at my job's parking lot right now, first time ever my VW leaves me stranded but I guess it happens:
Error codes I got:
p0261
p0267
p0270
p0264
p0445
p0037
p2257
p0010
p0414
p0141B
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Recently purchased 02 GTi 1.8t - Carfax Vin Check brings it up as a 337 but its only a 5 speed. Were 5 speed 337's made? Or is this just a vin error?
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Ever since ive owned my 337 its always been a pain to keep my cel off but i got a pocket scanner and found that the code is coming up for a bad ECM !!! i called around and the cheapest i found was 1200.
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I have a 04.5 GLI, recently my car has been giving me an alert that i'm having a break fault, it tells me to stop the car and check the service manual however I'm not having any trouble with my breaks at all, and I'm not exactly sure what the problem is, In the manual it says that I need to change my break fluid, but my fluid is fine, I was thinking maybe a sensor, or something is off?
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I have a 2002 GTI 337, 1.8T and I get the faulty code P0420 insuf.cat flow?? ... it is a way arround it
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For about two months I've been having a backfire problem but only when I get on it. We checked for leaks and nothing . The car had 11 codes and were all short to ground. Mechanic is saying my ecu is going out and I need a new one. Is it possible?
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I am trying to swap my ecu for a chipped one out of an 04 gti 1.8. Both awp engine codes. I programmed the immobilized and the car doesn't start. I am thinking it has the ignition kill feature but the guy who sold it to me doesn't think it does. i was just wondering if the ecu's are compatible even though the part number is different.
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I changed my sparkplugs and coil packs last month. Was getting CEL light but it would go away after a while. I figured out that I had gapped my spark plugs way to small (almost touching) so I took them out two nights ago and regapped/ reseated them.
My car was running fine yesterday, but today when I started my car up, the engine was shaking a lot for about 10 seconds and the CEL was blinking. After 10 seconds the shaking and CEL went away...
It drove fine. I'm just wondering what could be throwing these CEL's and causing the shaking? Plugs are gapped to 0.32
Also, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced almost two weeks ago now. Any chance that could be lending to the problem?
My guess is that one or more cylinders are screwy. I'd rather not bring it into the vw mechanic since I'm tight on cash.
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There ended up being 6 or 7 codes. Originally the first O2 sensor and wire seemed to go bad, I replaced them and it ran well for a couple days and then started running like ass again...Now there are a few codes, none for the 02 sensor, but for over boost issues...Does this mean my n75J valve is causing the problems? Is it possible that my software is just going bad? ...I bought the car somewhat molested and don't quite know the extent of the parts on it, nor the brands( specifically, the software...).
The current codes being thrown:
P0238 mani pres g31 sig to high
P0234 overboost
P0106mani barometric sensor g31
We replaced the manifold pressure sensor, and am not having the issues but they could and probably will come back after 50 or so miles...Previous code also was P1114 02 sensors and we replaced the front sensor. It may be that the software that is on the car is starting to go..
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Okay, this all started a couple weeks ago when i first heard a weird knocking noise about 10 minutes after I left my house. I pulled the car over and it seemed to be coming from the right rear of the car. I started to turn around when it stopped. Over the next few days I notice the longer I let it warm up the sooner I hear the noise. I park in the garage and have read different things on the temp changing etc. About a week ago my check gas cap light went on shortly after I heard the knocking noise.
I pulled over to check if it was tightened and when i restarted it the light was off.... I didn't think much about it but this weekend it went on again, after I heard the noise and I pulled over to check it, tightened it and started. This time it did not go off. After letting the car sit for a bit and restarting it finally went away. Then again this morning 7/2 after hearing the noise the gas cap light goes off again...same thing as the last. Light will not go off... the car is parked right now and hopefully the light is off when I go back to turn it on.
Received error code P0445 now and gas cap light no longer on, check engine light now comes on. I had my bf locate the fuel pump and he ran it and the noise seems to come from there...(TY Savko@HSTuning). When he moved it the check engine light went off for about 15 minutes but eventually came back on. I read to replace gas cap first with a P0445 error so I ordered a new Gas Cap and if that doesn't work I guess the fuel pump will be next?
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I am having an issue after my intake install, it was working fine all day and last night i get a light on the dash bored (looks like the one when you take off the esp) and I get this:
code 16485 Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) Implausible Signal : P0101
Static - No
What could be the cause of this because i ran this intake before no issues I only took it off and put the stock intake back in due to the rain but now since the rain is gone i decided to switch
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I have a 2003 20th ann. GTI, it shut off on me on my way to work. It would turn on but only for a sec and turn back off. I turned it on and tried to move it over out the way of traffic and wouldnt move and turn back off. Got the check engine light checked and the codes P1007 which is coolant temp sensor and P0011 which is camshaft sensor. I replaced both and problem not solved car will start but wont go and turns back off, black smoke and a strong smell of gas comes out the exhaust.
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I am getting the following trouble codes:
P0342 cam position sensor A bank 1 Ckt Low Input
P0102 MAF or VAF A Ckt Low Input
The accessory belt moves when I try to start it, but my timing belt stays still, but is kind of tight/very little slack.
It died on the highway, was in gear and it just lost power.
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Cars have been having problems with the clutch sticking to the floor. Bled the brake valve. Seemed to fix the problem, took a 30 min drive following, and clutch to the floor 2x at the end of the drive. Then, my car started to sound like a freaking wrx! BARELY made it home and it will turn over but quickly spud out. checked codes and it missed fire in 3 cylinders and small puddle under the car. I'm stuck and out of ideas other than coils.
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I recently installed the apr turbo compressor inlet hose and eurojet smic on my 20th. I am running apr stg. 1 software on apr diverter valve. I also have 3" ghl turbo back exhaust. The three codes I am getting triggered shortly after the 2 upgrades I mentioned above we're installed. In detail the codes read specific:
-idle air control system: RPM higher than expected
-bank 1 mixture adaptation(add): system too lean
-turbo/super charger: overboost condition
When the car idles it seems to miss every now and then I think cause the fuel mixture. It also does idle higher than it did before (~900rpm) when the cel comes on it seems to fix the missing issue but not idle rpms. I am running the stock ko3s turbo and am soon planning on a Eurosport cold air intake. Am I harming my engine? Can I get the light to stay off?
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Just installed e-codes in my car about a week or so ago.. When I did, the blinkers started to blink very fast. All the bulbs work fine and everything, and the hazards blink normally as well. Does this normally happen?
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I have multiple O2 codes on my '02 gti. It is giving me a check engine lights as well as the traction control light on. I received 6 codes all but one of them had to do with the O2 sensor and a short except for one that came in as the MAF. Both O2 sensors have been replaced and the codes still won't clear. I bought it in this condition, it runs really well so i wasn't to concerned about it, but the lights are starting to get annoying.
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Engine temperature too low. Turbo boost pressure too high. The car has the APR 93 octane program, carbonio intake, and silicone TIP.
What could be causing these codes? The car gets up to temp (190) real quick and stays there, and I don't feel a fluctuation of boost.
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So I picked up a 337 a little while ago, which I absolutely love, but there are some fault codes I have to deal with. Pretty sure I took care of the ABS hydraulic pump code. The ABS and ASR light came on after driving in some snow, but I found a thread about that, cleaned the fuses and the light is no longer on.
The following are the problems I am experiencing while driving the car:
I am seeming to have a power drop in 1st gear at low rpms. I have never driven a turbo'd car but I don't believe this is just turbo lag. It isn't a quick increase in power, rather a brief decrease, sort of like it's bogging down. I thought it was just me at first, but I have noticed it too many times and my gf even noticed it. I am not sure if this is related, but I thought I would mention it.
On occasion the dash lights will flash off then back on and reset my trip odo and clock. This has been happening more frequently as of late. It normally happens when I turn the lights on, or switch the brights on. The engine has completely turned off once at a stop light. I am currently searching all the codes online and am hoping to find a solution, but I am definitely concerned.
Also the AC/heater controls dials lights are out (just the three dials), and the 12v power outlet is not working. I tried switching the fuse but it isn't that. Thought this might connected. Final bit of info, the instrument cluster had a problem and was replaced by a dealer on November 29th. I don't know much more about it, I bought it right after that was done. Here are the actual fault codes.
Address 01: Engine
Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 ML
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 07510
[Code] ....
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Alright i have a 05 1.8t GLI I just installed a 42 draft designs full 3inch turboback, and a eurojet turbo inlet hose, after I put the stuff on my check engine light came on which I thought was gonna happen and is normal but my traction control light came on as well, the cars running better then ever and pulling harder then ever, but when i hooked it up to the computer I'm throwing 18 codes? Ive triple check to make sure everythings tight and in the right spot? What could be wrong?
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I just has a gen 2 haldex and wireless controller installed. 10 minutes of driving around getting on it in sport mode, I feel a thunk from the back and when slowing down a few odd shudders. Drove it cautiously a bit more and felt fine, then harder and harder. Felt better, no understeer, seemed ok.
Got home and scanned with Vagcom, got the errors below, cleared DTC and scanned again, same errors.
Address 22: AWD Labels: None
Part No: HW0 5Ha lde x
Component: Tuning
Coding: 0000001
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 5AB1BED4953067CEBA7-800F
2 Faults Found:
16347 - Control Module - EEPROM Error
014 - Defective
02248 - Valve for Controlling Clutch Operating Angle (N373)
014 - Defective
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