There wasn't even a crank. Held the ignition for a couple of seconds and it starts. The next day I had the battery and the alternator checked, they were both good. Another couple days passed and it did not want to start again. Got it scanned no codes come up. I changed the ignition switch and still I have the same problem with no crank.
View 8 RepliesRevo stage 2 --1.8t ... For the past few days I have tried to figure this issue out I am having with my 337. The car takes 2 or 3 times to start from being cold. Once its started it has no issue it drives awesome, pulls hard no codes when vag com'd. Can start it up anytime with ease for the rest of the day. Tried doing to solve:
-I have pretty new coilpacks---FSI- they are ok
-Spark plugs are 3 months old --checked those
-Checked Battery and its all normal and no issue
-Cleaned the throttle body = No change
-Installed new CTS yesturday (green) < no change
-Cleaned the MaF = NO change in start up but car runs way smoother
-Put in new Filter= No major change
-Did the Crank sensor under a month ago (Bosch)
I have a few more things on my list to check :
1. Fuel pump relay
2. Fuel Pressure Reg
3. ECU relay/ check immobilizer
4. Fuel Pump
So today as I was pulling my handbrake after parking the car, apparently it snapped, so np, taking it tomorrow to the garage for a fix. Anyways had an urgent outing, started the car and went for a 10 mins drive. I didn't give it enough time to warm up. So finished what i had to do, got back in the car, tried to start it, nothing. Took me two tries and 20 seconds of cranking before the car would start. started with EPC light on, drove it nothing wrong in it, except the check EPC light is on. What it might be?
View 3 RepliesSo driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.
Okay vortex here's what's happening in my 20th. About a month or so ago a CMP sensor went out, so I replaced that with a OEM sensor, on my way home my car started to misfire. So I took it easy the rest of the way home. The next day I started my car up and there were no misfires, drove to school, still no misfires but the check engine light was still on from the night before, after school on my way to get the codes ran it started to misfire again but then it stopped a few min into the drive.
Ever since then it has misfired but not all the time but maybe 1- 2 times a day then it would stop misfiring after a few min/seconds. My and my friend did the coil pack test and all the coil packs were good, yesterday (10/14/10) I replaced my plugs with NGK BKR7E plugs gapped at .028, my car is chipped with unitronic stage 2 tunning and it still misfired. I am going to clear all the codes and restet my ECU, but can you till do that with a unitronic ecu?
Sometimes my battery light will come on. It started happening about a few weeks ago. At the time i was on the parkway so i couldn't pull over and it was flashing a few times then stopped. It started doing it more often, now it did it around town so i would slow down and i could hear the belt squealing. It just happened again and this time my car sorta lost power but only for a second. Now my question is, how would i check if its
a) alternator,
b) the belt or
c) the tensioner?
Or, I won't know til i start messing with it?
Most of the time I take a corner I hear this somewhat knocking sound I believe its the back wiper but I'm not sure. Any easy fixes, besides the obvious replacing it.
View 10 RepliesI got a quick question about limp mode. I know this has prolly been covered a few times but I couldn't find anything too similar. Well, to start out my car cannot boost past 3lbs. If i turn the car off and take the terminals off the battery and let it reset for a while, it goes back to normal for a while. After a few times driving it, limp mode comes back on.
The first time this happened, the check engine light came on also. But once I reset the battery it turned off and went back to normal. But it never stays away for good, limp mode always ends up coming back...
So I was driving home from my girls house the other day, i stepped on the gas pretty decently, and instead of the normal "whoosh" from the intake, i hear the "whoosh" with an extra loud "whoosh" sound. Then when i came to a halt, the engine wanted to stall out and was sputtering incredibly bad. car seems to run fine @ 2k rpms+. Now it actually does crap out on me, so I am currently not even driving it.
I got fault codes p0300, 0301, 0303, 0304. random misfires in cyls 1,3,4 right? I checked my hoses and I don't seem to have a leak anywhere...
My 20th has been having a starting issue and I've honestly tried everything I can think of, this issue just randomly started one day the car will not start on first crank it starts second or third every time. After it's started and running it runs perfect its just getting it started.
I've replaced the Crankshaft sensor, Camshaft sensor, Coolant temp sensor, the car has had new injectors (440) installed about two months ago, has the new battery. My father is a mechanic and he has also tried everything he knows to do and we asked our local VW specialist and he said to try the things we have already did. Ran codes when the issue started and it only came up with camshaft sensor and we replaced that and cleared the code still nothing. Once this issue started we parked the car and started troubleshooting and the oil was low? even though I know before the issue started it was good and full. the car has a stage two intronic tune, 440 injectors, secondary air delete and all and a shaved and partially tucked bay, there are no resistors is the open unused sensors.
just found my cranksensor was dead.. on the highway today.. sooo!.. can som1 tell me where is that sensor exactly so i can change it today.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Passat and it won't start at random times. The battery would loose all it's charge but has the battery tested and it was fine. Hooked a voltmeter to the battery and with engine off got 12.4v. Right when I start it it would drop to about 10.6-11.1v. While running it would show 14.1v and with all accessories on and running at about 2000rpm it would read 13.6v.
View 10 RepliesI got the car like that. When I take off hard there is a crack somewhere in the front. Then when I stop hard it cracks too. What could it be??? Sometype of bushing??
View 1 RepliesI have a 1990 honda civic dx. with only 115,000 miles. For the most part it runs great, but for the past year it has given me problems when I try to start it. What happens is that at random times, it just cranks, but it doesn't start. Sometimes, if I try it several times (as much as 20 attempts) it will eventually start. Sometimes I have to leave the car for some time (10 minutes up to a few hours) and then it will start. I checked the spark, when it doesn't start, and it has a good spark. This seems to happen mostly when it is hot, never at night. My mechanic changed the distributor and that did not solve the problem. The ECM gave 16 flashes. My mechanic is frustrated in dealing with this because often it starts right up.
View 6 RepliesSo, yesterday I had my GLI in the shop to put a new timing belt on as well as some ECS Lightweight Pulleys. When I went to pick up the car, they did not install the pulleys. The reason they said was because the stock crank pulley has a dampener which keep vibration and balanced weight on the crank assembly and that the lightweight crank does not have these benefits.
So, now I have a set red anodized pulleys.. [URL].............
I get a ticking niose when i crank the wheel all the way to the left or right and reverse .. What it could be (its fine when I drive forward)....
View 2 RepliesI have been having this issue randomly, sometimes it won't occur for days and other times it happens in a short period. I will place my key in the ignition, and everything will chime correctly, and when I turn over my engine, it sounds like the engine catches then it just stalls. The things I have changed so far is,
battery ( needed to be changed anyways)
spark plugs ( was set to be changed)
air filter
cabin air filter ( no relevant but still...)
oil
At first I thought it could be bad gas, since I fill up sometimes at safeways etc, but in my tank right now is 91 octane shell, I thought it could be spark plugs since I was a little over due so I changed them, and the issue never popped up for 2 more weeks, then it came back.
if I use my car starter it seems to start better, but it is maybe 1 out of 10 times it will just crank continuously without catching or anything.
I can hear my fuel pump whirl when the key is turned but not started, I checked the oil today and it is full and a light color, maybe 500 km on this oil change.
Here is the youtube issue of what is happening... [URL] ......
I rather cover most of my bases without having to bring it in for servicing.
My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
I have a 2006 Ford Expedition with 95,000 miles that has a crank but intermittent no start problem. When it does happen, it will eventually start after one to two tries. I don't have to wait to start it again and I don't have any problems while it is running. Two or three times in the past two months it will sputter out and die (even though I am pressing the gas pedal) right after starting. I'll crank it again and it starts just fine. I have no problems while driving at freeway speeds or around town.
I never had any check engine lights come on so I replaced the battery and the fuel filter. I finally got two codes and replaced the fuel pump driver module and the fuel rail pressure sensor. The codes went off after replacing these two parts. I can hear my fuel pump turn on every time I start the vehicle. I have even taken the entire fuse panel apart to check Relay 303 which is soldered into the circuit board. It is fine and so is every other fuse in the panel.
My Lexus Rx350 (2007) having problem starting the car when the engine is cold or switch off more than 1-2 hours. I need to crank the car at least 2-3 times to get the engine run. Once the engine run, i have no problem restarting the car with a single crack.
View 5 Repliesi have a 96 ranger with a 2.3l engine sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it has to crank 4 or 5 times to start i just gave it a tuneup and changed the oil and filter. should i run sea foam through the oil system,it sat for about seven years and i need to convert the idiot gauge to a real gauge.
View 2 Replies