GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Front End Noisy - Brake Pads Rattling
May 16, 2008
Having trouble with front brake pads rattling? About a month ago, I replaced pads - rotors - caliper pins on my 20th GLI. I know these cars ride a bit stiff but it sounds like my front end is about to fall off. All brake parts were torqued to spec - I've gone through all T25/T30 torx front end screws etc and I just can't find the rattle??? This has only started within the last few days. Any other places to check for obvious loose bolts etc?
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So a few days ago the warning light that my break pads are getting low came on. My friend needs a ride this weekend that would bring the round trip to about 300 miles. How soon are my break pads on my 20th going to be shot? I don't know if this is an early warning to let you plan to get break pads in the near future, or if it's the same thing as seeing the gas light(Oh crap, gotta head to the gas station and fix this NOW).
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I have an '05 GLI @ 45,000/mi. The sensor light came on for my brake pads about a week ago. So obviously I need new brake pads (front & rear? not sure...I know the sensor is only for the front). But I was also wondering if I need to replace the rotors.
I understand there is a measurement for the OEM rotors to tell when they need to be replaced. There is a little lip on the them, more so on the front than back. And they feel slightly grooved.
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Having this problem where the button to release the hand brake rattles constantly while driving? The only thing I can think is to replace the spring in it, but Idon't know how difficult that would be. Otherwise my only other thoughts are to find something thing enough that I can slide into it and hope it doesn't ever jam it up.
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Back in April when I was getting my car inspected the mechanic told me I needed new rear brake pads. I knew I did so I let him change them.
Now I get noisy brake pads this moaning sound out of them when I apply the brakes while I'm backing out of a parking spot or my driveway. I've only driven about 5 or 6 hundred miles since then.
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I have just purchased a VW GTI 337 with 194k on the odometer. The car has a few issues, I have listed the issues by importance. The car came with a stage III ARP turbo kit installed. I just don't know if it's the stage III or stage III+. The car seems to be running okay but it seems like it's lacking the power. Meaning that I should be feeling more. Could it be that car seems to be in some sort of limp mode?
1. The car surges when I am at the low and mid pedal. But, not when I am wide open throttle. Seems like to me that the car is hesitating until I give it a lot of gas. I have changed spark plugs and coils have been replaced by VW dealer for free.
2. ABS light is on and stays on, does not blink just stays on.
3. ASR button will not work. When pressed in it will not light up or show that its activated.
4. Left brake pad or sensor is not plugged in because it's missing the connection. Looks like someone cut it off for some sort of reason.
5. A light that has a triangle with a circle surrounding it, is on. The light is in the cluster.
6. The front brake pads light is on, this is also in the cluster.
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My brake pads been rattling around whenever i hit the brake slowly. I think its the front one. My car is 160k miles and still using the original brake hardware kit. Will the new one fix this annoying rattle? I just cant see how a new piece of metal will stop the pads to move around.
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Gen III 2010, 6800 miles. Silver. Fuzzy dice. Pads are still rattling in the calipers when I hit bump when foot is not on brake. It sounds like hell! ...like major suspension components are loose, although I know they are not. Two Toyota dealers have told me this is normal, and no danger. ...no dealer fix.
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I just put on a magnaflow cat-back exhaust and sometimes when i idle i have a rattle and sometimes it will not rattle. I went under it and shook all around to see if anything was hitting but there was nothing i could see. What could it be?
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Had it done at 87K years ago. Coolant light came on car had been rattling. Parked and coolant came leaking out. At 157K now was gonna replace belt at 167k, that's 80k since the last job. My guy says had I drove it further would be looking at a new 1.8t.
Does this sound about right to you since it's been 70k since that last timing water pump job. Why didn't the car overheat? Chipped at 40k with apr and very conservative driver. I suppose it just depends on too many variables why the job needs to be done 10k before I originally planned to do it.
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I just picked up a 20th and it seems when it's running and parked i get this very distinct rattling noise from somewhere in my engine bay. I go to put the clutch down and it stops, as soon as i lay off the clutch it comes back (almost humming) could it maybe be the trans?
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I recently just put a set of b&g rs's on the car and now it appears that my 3'' exhaust is hitting and rattling/striking the bend that goes over the rear axle, I know I can raise the car and keep it from doing such but that kinda defeats the purpose of lowering the car, Just trying to see if there is something out there, like polyurethane hangers or something along those line that might alleviate the problem.
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I have a 42 DD tb exhaust. And so far I've used a 3" exhaust clamp over the last hanger (after the muffler) which raised the exhaust all the way up against the heatshield, eliminating the rattle over the rear axle beam. But the exhaust was rattling against the heatshield.
So I bought 15 ft of exhaust wrap and wrapped the section that comes in contact with the heatshield. It worked a bit but it still rattles a little! I hate this rattling! How to get rid of the rattling? Should I just use more exhaust wrap?
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I've been trying to locate the source of the noise that is coming under the car. Specifically below the handbrake. Like something is lose, took the car to a shop to have it inspected, checked the exhaust, and there was nothing there, all clamps there and screws.
It only happens most of the time when the car is cold and it feels all the way from the hand brake to the stick shift. Sounds like a rattle like something is about to go off from the car but I cant imagine what could be. Couldn't replicate the noise at the shop, only when you are driving and the car is in inclined it rattles really bad until the car gets back to the normal position. Specifically in 1st gear .
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Every time I let off the gas in third and now fourth, the engine produces a higher and almost rattling whine. As soon as i add gas it goes away and everything sounds normal. There are no other symptoms and nothing seems to be going wrong but i have no clue why my car does this. Tried searching around but i can't seem to find anything.
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So I really don't drive my car much during the year since I'm away at college. Once I got back home a couple weeks ago and drove my 20th, i heard a rattle coming from the middle of the car. Jacked it up and starting banging around. The sound is coming from my resonator. Its either the clamp that is busted or the resonator itself. I have to get in closer to see which it is. But I do have a few questions. If I just cut the resonator cut off and weld a straight pipe to that will it be much louder. I have a stock 20th and I'm not really looking for a loud exhaust at the moment. Is it much louder without the resonator? I know if you put a straight pipe in place of the muffler it is MUCH louder so I'm just curious.
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I recently installed my 3" GHL exhaust along with my stage 1 BFI dogbone and I recently noticed a very faint rattle when I am engine braking. I can only hear it when there's no cars around or when its quite. but i cant figure it out. (I still have the stock exhaust heat shield in from the cat back so I am not ruling that out as a possibility).
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I noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
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My 337 didn't pass inspection (control arms, inner tie rod, no cat because the guy I bought it from sucked etc) but it sat for probably 3 weeks and I just sold my other car (I was planning on using that $2000 to get the 337 to pass inspection) but I just drove the VW down the street for the first time and it's making some scary sounds.
Basically when I give it throttle there's a high pitched whirring sound and something keeps rattling that sounds like its coming from the engine bay. I'm really freaked out, I'm leaving in two months because I'm transferring to a new college and I need this thing to run perfectly.
It's also shifting a little strangely and if you don't shift absolutely perfectly then it starts to rattle (not like you're about to stall but something completely different) I can't take it to a VW dealer or anything because I'm way over the 15 days past a failed inspection and I can't afford a tow.
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I have the po411 code, not sure which problem it is but when I first start the car it sounds awful like almost a grinding or rattling noise then stops after a few seconds.
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Today as I was adding pressure to my tires I noticed the front brake pads were wearing unevenly. Both outer pads wore the same. More "meat" on the inner section of pads than on the outer, evenly worn, just sort of slanted down as you move out towards the outer rim of the brake disk.
Is this normal? What would cause this? Should I have it looked at? I've never seen anything but even pad wear, perfectly parallel to the brake disk.
Edit for these pictures to clarify.....
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