When I hit the gas and my turbo reached high boost (15 psi and up), it would slightly sputter and make an odd sound. I even noticed my exhaust made a different exhaust note than usual. While it sputtered the CEL began flashing. I then drove it normally (not high boost) all the way home and it drove completely fine. I'm gonna try and get my codes checked tomorrow.
View 9 RepliesEngine temperature too low. Turbo boost pressure too high. The car has the APR 93 octane program, carbonio intake, and silicone TIP.
What could be causing these codes? The car gets up to temp (190) real quick and stays there, and I don't feel a fluctuation of boost.
So I just installed a boost gauge. Vacuum line is running off the fuel pressure regulator. My boost is now not going over 10 psi and the engine is cutting out. It kinda feels like the dv isn't holding psi but just always open. The car is a 05 gli with intake and exhaust.
Also the car seems to be running alright at below 2000 rpm and it just starts to cut out when it should be making boost. And I'm pretty sure this car is reprogrammed because yesterday when I finished the boost gauge install it was running at19 psi.
I just got my 04 Passat chipped from APTuning 2 days ago and I was wondering if i need to tighten the gap on my spark plugs? Car runs wonderfully but in high boost it seems to sputter a bit, and i was hoping that tightening the gap was going to solve this issue. If i do have to tighten the gap, do i need to do this for each program? I have 4 programs on the chip (stock, 91 octane, 93 octane and 100 octane). I am sure that i'm going to keep it to 91 octane for 99% of the time.
View 1 RepliesSo it seams to have a sputter around 2500 to about 3500. When it should be boosting I am guessing. Engine Lite flashes then goes out for catalytic efficiency. Cleared codes but always comes back thoughts are cat or o2 problems. Minor mods downpipe, exhaust, and bypass valve. And Fuel mileage gone down quite a bit.
View 2 RepliesSo I replaced my turbo about 2 years ago give or take and maybe 15-20k miles on it since. The last few weeks my car has been running some what weird so i decided to bring it to the shop. The guy thinks its my turbo but its hard for me to believe. Here are the symptoms it was having..
1) Lose of power
2) When I was on the high way i would floor it and it just wouldn't go. It would accelerate after 60 mph and it would almost be at a stand still. A few times it almost lost power completely and i had the pedal to the ground and it was decelerating.
3) When I would drive the car would sputter and jerk like almost it wasn't getting gas.
4) After a overnight where it was shut off, the next day i would go turn it on and it would barely turn over and it would be rough for a few seconds.
5) The exhuast/muffler after accelerating would pop
6) I don't hear my turbo spooling as loud and as much as it use to.
Could this be some sort of sensor or even the fuel pump? I feel that it wouldn't have some of these issues if it was the turbo compared to something else.
I'm to the point of driving the car off a cliff! I've included a log of the car acting upt. The car is a 20th AE GTI AWP. It was chipped all it's life and ran like a champ. In November I installed a Frankenturbo F21T turbo kit, Bosch EV14 550cc injectors, 3" MAF, eBay FMIC, 3" catted exhaust, and a custom tune from Motoza. Dave at Motoza has updated the file 4 times and no matter what he changes, the car will boost up to the requested boost of 19psi and hold it for almost one second, then boost will drop to 12-15psi and then boost past the request to like 22-24 psi and go back and forth until the gear is over and I shift. Then it does the same thing in the next gear. i just want a solid 18-20psi without a manual boost controller! Things I have tried:
-Changed the N75J back to a NEW stock N75
-Replaced all the N75 vacuum lines
-Wastegate cracks at 7-8psi
-Replaced every worm feed clamp to a nice T-bolt clamp
-Boost leak tested to 18psi and found no leaks
-Deleted SAI, N249, and N112
-Unplugged MAF, nothing changed
LOG with multiple WOT pulls: [URL]...
I have a 20th 1.8t. It was running fine last week but all of the sudden i was only getting about 4-5 psi. I have check all over vwvortex for somewhat of an answer. I have no C.E.L.. I have checked for vacuum leaks with nothing coming up. I tried to check for boost leaks but it comes out of the dipstick hole. I have undone and re-installed the pancake pipe. The DV is holding pressure.
View 1 Replieswhen the traction control is off my boost hits 18psi and there have been times where it was 20 psi. My friend said i probably have stage 1 software .
View 4 RepliesStart with the basics, no CEL's, car has not cut out while driving and I've only had to attempt cranking up the car twice since I started noticing these issues about 6 months ago.
Symptoms: hesitation/variation in boost during acceleration- doesn't matter if I really get into the gas or just "normal" passing acceleration RPM's steadily climb, but just not as consistent or quickly. Also, the one that really has me really confused. With a 1/4 tank of gas or less, going up a slight incline (overpass); 70-mph-ish... acceleration dies off, rpm's slowly decline, and gas pedal doesn't respond for about 2-3 seconds. Car never shuts off, no CEL's, then everything is fine again! Even does it when I'm using cruise control. Car just rolled 110,000 miles
I'm not sure what to make of this ... I disconnected the battery before installing . The gauge seems to be reading correct based on what i researched. If there was a slight leak would it throw the CEL ? is it maybe just a one time thing that needs to be cleared afterwards ? Car drives fine and I plan on trying to stop at autozone to get there crapo freebie scan . Kinda annoyed considering everything went smoothly up until I drove the car more then 50 miles .
View 14 RepliesSo I have a 20th AE with 113k Miles.
All of engine is stock, but when I FLOOR it from about 3rd-4th or sometimes 2nd-3rd the car will build up boost but release it without me letting go off pedal.
So, basically as I am driving the car sort of builds up, drops, builds up, drops without my doing anything but drive.
It will rev to about 3k stop for a second, rev to 4k stop for a split second, rev to 5k and so on... Not sure what this is or why it could be happening...
Having trouble with car going into limp mode or just not boosting at all. Tried some basic things to fix it, plugs, coilpacks, tune, none have work.
View 4 RepliesMy 337 didn't pass inspection (control arms, inner tie rod, no cat because the guy I bought it from sucked etc) but it sat for probably 3 weeks and I just sold my other car (I was planning on using that $2000 to get the 337 to pass inspection) but I just drove the VW down the street for the first time and it's making some scary sounds.
Basically when I give it throttle there's a high pitched whirring sound and something keeps rattling that sounds like its coming from the engine bay. I'm really freaked out, I'm leaving in two months because I'm transferring to a new college and I need this thing to run perfectly.
It's also shifting a little strangely and if you don't shift absolutely perfectly then it starts to rattle (not like you're about to stall but something completely different) I can't take it to a VW dealer or anything because I'm way over the 15 days past a failed inspection and I can't afford a tow.
For some reason My car won't boost like it used to in the upper gears. 1st, 2nd and even 3rd I can still boost around 18 but once I go 4th, 5th, 6th my boost get lower and lower to the point the I get only 10psi in 6th gear. The car also seems slower a doesn't spool that fast like it used. i checked most of the hoses, even my intercooler pipes which were leaking before and everything is tight. Could it be my DV which is still stock or should I look someplace else?
View 13 RepliesCar now has about 67,000 miles on it. I drove it from the bay to Lake Tahoe 2 weeks ago, which is when I first noticed the light. I tried to go to a couple of autozone's to get the code read but none of them would do it. I also noticed that now on my boost gauge that i am only reading 4-5psi under load, so its not quite feeling like i'm getting as much power as before. What a common issue is at about this many miles on a 1.8t car? (GLI)
View 3 RepliesIf your diverter valve is bad, will it throw a CEL or not always? I don't have a CEL but sometimes I feel like there is a lag in the boost. Wondering if the diverter valve is bad or not.
View 6 RepliesSometimes while driving if i accelerate the car fully the rpms will accelerate way to fast (at least 2x faster than usual) without picking up much speed at all. I can tell that the car is not going to full boost. The problem is the worst in 5th and 6th gear (when the car is relying more on boost im guessing?) and will happen one day and be perfectly fine the next. I just had the car checked for a boost leak about 3 weeks ago so i dont think its that. The car is chipped with uni stage 1+ (20psi) and has a full 3 inch turboback.
View 15 RepliesI installed a brand new "A line" 007 last night. Now I have ridiculous boost surge (15psi then to 5psi, then holds 11 hard) I did a N75 race valve last year (ECS), so I have my doubts that it is the N75. So what gives? The car wasnt that bad with a blown stock DV compared to this. I have minor mods: CAI, exhaust, Forge TIP, APR stage 1.
View 24 RepliesI've had this problem a while but now i want to get around to fixing it.. my boost gauge is always at 0 now and sometimes when i drive the car it starts working but it starts like sticking... like when i didn't have my chip it would go up and down really fast between 10 - 15psi... i heard from a friend that you can take it apart and re-adjust some screws or something so it works like a charm... right now its just like frozen at 0 psi when i drive it doesnt go down or up.
View 4 RepliesWas driving the other day and one of the couplers came loos and I lost boost and went into limp mode. I pulled over, got it reattached, and after that it would only hit 10 lbs. i have a KO4-001 with the GIAC file and it usually hits 20+ and holds 20 lbs. I have a regular code reader and I had a code for the EBC, cleared it, rechecked the hoses, and verified with the flash loader that I was on the correct file, but it is still only hitting 10 lbs. What else I should check.
View 1 Replies