GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Engine Shaking Almost If Motor Was Bogging Down A Little
Oct 18, 2012
I have a 2004 gli and there r no lights an no codes but when I am driving the car shakes a little almost if the motor was bogging down a little. its nothing to major just a slight back and forth movement. I cant seem to figure out the problem it seems to go away during acceleration. Also one other thing is it seems to do it worse when its warmer!
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I have a 337 running the ATP gt2x kit with revo stg3 and external fuel w/550cc injectors. The car has power in the first three gears until 4200 RPM then it acts like it backfires and then looses all power, but it will drive and boost normal in 4th,5th, and 6th gear. I have basic boost settings running on the revo and cant figure out what the problem is.
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Whenever I go over about 50 MPH it starts shaking like the dickens. We have a lot of snow around so I'm thinking i just have messed up alignment from hitting snow chunks but who knows. [URL] ....
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My 20th Gti is shaking. So when I accelerate to about 80mph and then let off the gas it the front end will start shaking and once I tap on the gas a little it will stop. Why is it doing this and what is it that has gone bad?
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I don't think I am in the right forum but I don't know where to post it. I have a 20th and when the car idles it shakes a little but when I take off the car rumbles alot the only way not to make it rumble is rev it to 1500rpm what can it be causing this?? I have a catback tt exhaust can it cause it to do it?
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I am currently running 8mm ECS spacers in the front and 17.5mm ECS spacers in the rear. My Summer set up is still stock BBS RC's, but my winter wheels are Lenso's.
Last winter was my first winter running with the Lenso's and had no issues. This past weekend I swapped out the BBS's for the Lenso's, and now I am feeling vibration above 60MPH. I felt no vibration with the BBS's. I just took them in to get balanced (maybe a weight fell off-idk), and they were within 1/4 of 100% balanced. They then thought it may be the spacers I'm running so they cleaned them up, but said that it didn't work.
My alignment is also spot on-so that's not an issue either. I am at a loss as to what would make me feel that vibration after just changing out the wheels.
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My 1.8t gli is giving me this issue, when braking (specially hard) my steering wheel shakes side to side, my rotors got changed less than 20,000 miles ago (all of them) and they seem fine right now.
Could this be my Tie Rod ends? The car has 110,000 miles on it, and i know some bushings if not all need to be changed, which I am gonna be installing when i put on the Raxles i just got.
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I have a 2003 20th anniversary edition GTI. Yesterday I noticed my car started shaking when I was driving on the highway. The only thing I can think of that I did was run into a snow bank during the snowstorm. What is causing my car to shake?
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I have a 05 gli w/ 65k miles. I got new plugs gaped correctly and new coils. When I'm idling at 7-800rpm my steering wheel shakes a little and when I flip on the ac it's even more noticeable. So much the rear view mirror shakes just a tad. What do yall think it could be cause it's not that bad but I'm anal about my cars and I want it to be perfect.
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Yeah it was stuck in the "up" position, just running forever. Turn the car off and just keep running. So I took it apart and un-plugged it.
I plan on swapping it for the drivers and see if it follows the mirror motor. Yeah, I been getting dead battery and this is why.
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I was sitting at the stoplight in neutral when the light turned green. I pushed in the clutch and put the car in first then all of a sudden a huge CLUNK like when you take out the starter bolt without supporting the trans or motor. Then while letting out the clutch about halfway all hell broke loose. It sounded like a bunch of marbles rattling like crazy in the trans. I pushed the clutch back in then it stops until you let it back out again. The car still moves forward and reverse but with all that noise. The sound seems like it's coming from under the driver side motor mount. When I put my hand on the tranny I can feel the vibrations very well. Does this sound like the throw out bearing?
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I have a 2003 ford ranger 2.3 vin d 5 speed, this truck originally... Took it in for wires plugs front brakes fuel filter battery and added a small cold air intake. We discovered a valve cover leak and while repairing guy drops a screw into a valve and when finished he started it lodged the screw between the valve, shearing off a cam sprocket bolt. Throwing the timing. 2 valves on the exhaust side were bent and replaced. no damage to the head.
Timing was reset and the truck was running. 2 days later truck is running/had a hint of exhaust smell then started bogging dying and shaking, at which time we got an 02 bank2 lean code and fixed that. it cleared code and didn't fix it. From there we replaced coil, imrc intake bc of a crack, tried and check all vacuum, reset the timing. Timing would slip before but no longer than 10 minutes every time truck started.
Found the hole in the timing cover that holds the bolt to torque? to harmonic balancer was broke. replaced along with the diamond washers and cam sprocket bolts. timing finally held crank sensor was adjusted. truck came home for one day running good, we had removed the cold air intake and replaced the factory air intake. next day it was so slow outta first gear, you must baby the throttle, if you floor It, it sputters and kinda pops, truck stays slow all the way to about 10 mph and 2000rpm then it begins grabbing speed, 3000rpm is where this truck shifts the best, 2nd is better, third better than that.
As rpm increase the truck runs better, it idles steady at 1100-1200rpm at stops with an audible miss and then struggles again on takeoff. Here what im wondering, the truck has an abs sensor that just came on, but no codes showing now.tomorrow I wil run matko determinator 3.0 on it. and test the catalytic converter. first how do I check the timing belt to see if it stretched? do these trucks store the p.i.d.s. koer or kams that could cause one, all, or any of this and if so do I have to have it flashed from ford or can you manually do this without a drive cycle test.
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So, it's been 8 years with this awesome car. Still enjoying every day. Over the past year or so, I've noticed my engine get gradually louder and louder. By that I mean, the overall engine noise at low RPM. It's a mechanical kind of noise. Clicking, etc. The engine has 101,500 miles on it.
For the past 2 days now, this noise has gotten dramatically louder. I've tried to capture it in the video below. Might have to listen with headphones. The noise is most noticeable at idle and then goes away after about 2000 RPM. You'll see. What this might be? Btw, there is no reduction in the performance of the car.
[URL] ......
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What is the factory AWP 20th AE boost pressure?
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I know it has to do with the thermostat and coolant sensor but I am trying to hold off on doing it till the winter cause my car is at 68k so i will be doing the timing belt. It would be easier to install them all at once. is it bad to keep driving the car with this problem?
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I chipped my car with unitronics stage 2 3 weeks ago. 300 mile later the check engine came on. 42 DD down 3" to 2.5 cb no DV yet.
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So i have a 2004.5 gli 6spd that had two of the coils go bad and had a serious misfire with engine code and all car didnt want to even move. So i got this fixed made it about a mile down the road and it had a cylinder 3 misfire took it back had third coil replaced and all new plugs put it. Got the car back it ran fine until i hit about 4000 rpm under heavy boost it misfires but no flashing cel like before and the car still runs but cold start warmed up it misfires under boost
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Car was started for the first time after the radiator was flushed and new coolant was put on it. The car was just jumped and charged after was brought from a copart auction. Now my brother said that everything looks smooth, no xxxmas tree in the dashboard, idle is steady, engine sounds good.
Now here comes the thing, the temps of oil and water are at a proper level. When he steps on the gas pedal a few seconds later there is some sort of smoke coming out from the back of the engine (exhaust manifold, turbo, intercooler stock pipes from the SMIC) My question is cause he's not a mechanic and he will arrive tomorrow. crack manifold, shot turbo or some leak in the hoses?
aBtw the car has 105k miles.
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So recently my check engine and abs light came on. I went to go get it checked out and it was the MAF censor. And here recently i noticed the airbag light came on. I replaced the MAF today, and the abs went away but check engine is still on due to the downpipe. And the airbag light is also on. Why it might have came on?
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So, for about two weeks now, my engine has been running hot. I have a 2003 Volkswagen Jetta VR6, the cat converter and the MAF Sensor have both been replaced w/in the past year. Oh yeah, also replaced my thermostat within the past 2 years. Trying to trouble shoot the problem. I had the radiator flushed the other day. No engine light is currently on. It doesn't happen to me in the morning (due to the cold ass weather) but towards the end of my stretch home from work (all interstate) the temp gauge goes past the 190 degree mark. Doesn't reach the red, however its still too hot for comfort.
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I was in traffic the other day on the express way and I noticed my engine was starting to overheat. I think it has something to do with the AC because as soon as I turned it off the temp went back to normal. What it could be?
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