GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Engine Failure While Driving - Cylinder 1 Misfire
Mar 10, 2011
I am having this failure in my engine that is making me crazy while I am driving. Yesterday i took my car to a shop to see what was it. my MAF was gone ( I replaced it ) and the failure still going on. The mechanic connected his computer in my car and we went for a ride. HE told me cylinder 1 misfire.
This is what i did.
-change spark-plugs position (failure still)
-change coilpack (failure still)
What can i do ?
-clean injectors
-check for any carbon in valves
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Driving the other night I ran drove over a pot hole going about forty pulled up to the stop light and my car starts to make funny noises, barley got the car moving again but managed to get home. I hooked my computer up to it and it says misfire at cylinder 2 and 4.
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I changed my sparkplugs and coil packs last month. Was getting CEL light but it would go away after a while. I figured out that I had gapped my spark plugs way to small (almost touching) so I took them out two nights ago and regapped/ reseated them.
My car was running fine yesterday, but today when I started my car up, the engine was shaking a lot for about 10 seconds and the CEL was blinking. After 10 seconds the shaking and CEL went away...
It drove fine. I'm just wondering what could be throwing these CEL's and causing the shaking? Plugs are gapped to 0.32
Also, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced almost two weeks ago now. Any chance that could be lending to the problem?
My guess is that one or more cylinders are screwy. I'd rather not bring it into the vw mechanic since I'm tight on cash.
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So I have a 2004 Jetta gli 1.8turbo and my CEL came on last night from normal driving, after it came on it still drives the same. I had it scanned for codes and got the p0303 cylinder #3 misfire. wondering what could be the solution for this? I dont think its the coil pack because I had them changed at the dealer from the recall about 2 months ago (anyway to check?) Also I have 97,000 miles on my car and my last oil change I used 0w-40 oil. I know this is probably not the best oil to use at this mileage but I had an extra 5 quarts of them laying around so I decided to use it.
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So i have a 2004.5 gli 6spd that had two of the coils go bad and had a serious misfire with engine code and all car didnt want to even move. So i got this fixed made it about a mile down the road and it had a cylinder 3 misfire took it back had third coil replaced and all new plugs put it. Got the car back it ran fine until i hit about 4000 rpm under heavy boost it misfires but no flashing cel like before and the car still runs but cold start warmed up it misfires under boost
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Looks like the 1-2 shift fork failed on my 337. This is the 2nd time this has happened to my car in under 100,000 miles of driving (I'm the original owner). The last time was about 3 years ago and the shop I was going to found a used transmission for me. Just curious, how common this happens to our 6-speeds.
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So my son's car started to sound like a diesel at idle - a good precursor to timing belt tensioner failure and belt slip, as that happened last night.
When we pulled the belt cover off and turned the dampener pulley by hand the belt was spinning on the bottom gear. When turning the engine over, there was no mechanical noises to indicate valves making contact. Did we get lucky or are the valves just bent out of the way?
How can you tell the valves are bent without taking the head off?
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3 weeks ago my slave cylinder blew out in a big way so I limped it home and into the garage and onto jack stands. After tearing out the gearbox, replacing the clutch and slave, we get the thing all buttoned up and start to bleed the clutch.
We feel as though we were making progress but upon pressing the pedal it stopped halfway to the floor, pressing harder now it would go to the floor slowly, then we start to hear the dripping again coming out of the bell housing. If we push on the pedal now, it goes half way down and stops, if you keep pushing harder you can tell that we are just pushing the fluid out at the slave cylinder and it start dripping hard again.
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This has been happening intermittently for a while now. The car has about 97k on it and I within the last 1000 miles have replace the timing belt, water pump, coolant temp sensor, tensioners, thermostat, and MAF (OEM BOSCH from ECS).
The car was overheating; all the cooling/timing related stuff was changed, no issues for a few weeks. Then it started misfiring and stalling like a madman in cyls 2 and 3. Ran ran if for the code pulled the MAF and sure enough it looks like the PO never cleaned it as there were probably 2mm of buildup on it; as preventative maintenance I went ahead and just replaced it completely.
Now, less than a week after I replaced the MAF the car will make random little popping noises under hard acceleration, and randomly will just completely stall; without showing the battery or check engine lights, similar to how it was stalling right before the MAF went bad. I live three miles from my office and it has happened going to and from every day for the past two weeks.
As far as I know the car is mostly stock (I purchased in in March). However it does have a knockoff BPV of some sort that I think could be causing the issue as the popping noise sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the car. What this might be (if it's not the BPV).
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So i just got back into town after not driving her for about a week, started her up(barely), and saw engine light. While on the engine putters and sounds bad. The exhaust smells like gas. I have done no Mods except for APR stage one and a K & N air filter. Is it misfiring? Is my software bad?
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I have a 2004 Jetta gli 1.8turbo my car has 97,000 miles and the last oil change i did was with 0w-40 oil, can this cause my check engline light to come on and 2 cylinder misfires? should i change oil to 5w- or 10w- asap?
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Ive been having two issues with my GLI lately, last week while driving on the parkway my car just randomly lost acceleration, no lights came on but the gas peddle was unresponsive. I was able to restart it while coasting and thought nothing of it. Then it kept doing it. It was raining that night but ive never had an issue before. Other times it dies it is sunny out. The second issue is sometimes when I hit over 10lbs of boost the car will start to misfire and run like crap. No CEL's come on the dash but if we scan it with VAGCOM it says theres misfires happening, obviously. Already did a smoke test and there are no vacuum leaks.
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Car: 03 20th with 6spd 02m trans.
Problem: Go out in the morning esp when really cold, and the clutch pedal drops to the floor. No resistance at all on it as if it's no connected to anything. I pull it back up and pedal starts to build pressure.
I thought slave cylinder searching on here shows a high probability of that being the issue. But the strange thing is the pedal feels like it's sticking at the midway point. Once pressure is built up to normal pedal pressure, if I opush it down and slide my foot off it, it will literally rise fast and the feels like it catches on something and pops to the normal top position.
So my thought here is that the Master cylinder is sticking somewhere inside and causing the pedal to hang up. The weird part though is that once the car is warmed up the problem starts to diminish. But if I drive long enough on the highway (not shifting gears) the clutch seems to start losing pressure all over again.
I have also had to top off the brake fluid reservoir about 3 times in 2 months. What is the root cause here?
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Well I started her up and started driving her again and I got a cel! (remind you it sat all winter just got started up!) so check the cel and it says cylinder 1 misfire! ok, check spark plug gap and change # one coil to # two and two to one! everything seems fine! well get the same cel and misfire BUT this time says its cylinder 3???? so what coil packs do i change and what do i keep? the #1 and #3 were changed 18 months ago under recall! havent had any misfire since i cleared the last cel! Just change all 4? gap is at .032 on all 4 also! wires are all good and harnesses are perfect! are they just going bad or just a hickup from sitting?
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It's a 2000 3.4 ... while i was driving on the highway the ses came on and it started running rough checked it when i got home cylinder 6 misfire came up so i did a compression test it only had 30 psi..there was a hole in a valve so i put on new heads changed the plugs and wires and a bunch of other things. put it all back together and it still does the same thing except now i have 160 psi in cylinder 6. I tried another coil, ICM, fuel injector, plug, wire and nothing changes.
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It sounds real bad while actually driving... some weird ticking noise and It's not a rod or an exhaust leak cause I couldn't find one or any of the shops I brought it to. What this could be? I'm tired of it sounding like a subaru. It has a 3 inch tb exhaust and f4t frankenturbo setup with 415cc software and injectors. I just need the turbo to last for a few more months then I'm going BT..
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I'm aware that this is a common issue for the MK4 and I'm looking for some closure on what the exact issue could be. Whenever I drive my car on a bumpier back road I feel like the car is sputtering and surging whenever I hit a bump and it's very noticeable with the exhaust on my car. Once on the highway the car lost all power for about 3 seconds and then it started working again. I think it might be the coil packs or the fuel pump but I don't want to buy things the car doesn't need. Where to start?
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So after replacing my shift forks in my 20th, installing a new clutchmasters fx100 clutch kit with a LWFW I've become a victim of the typical clutch disengagement issue.
In a nut shell car doesn't go into gear while the car is running. System is fully bled with no leaks and a brand new slave installed supplied by CM.
My understanding is the early FML code o2ms in the 20ths can not make use of the NLS shim kit and a stainless line is not a 100% fix.
Who's solved their disengagement issues and how?
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I have a 2003 20th anniversary edition GTI. Yesterday I noticed my car started shaking when I was driving on the highway. The only thing I can think of that I did was run into a snow bank during the snowstorm. What is causing my car to shake?
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so, I'm driving home the other day in stop and go 102 degree traffic, and my A/C cuts out. I thought maybe my compressor took a dump, because I've noticed a little noise from that side of the engine. Then I look down, and notice my water temp is like 240-250ish. As soon as traffic starts up again, temp goes down to normal, and A/C comes back.
I have a 2 mile commute to work, so it hasn't happened since then.
no DTC's, no rad fan. A/C fan works. Put 12V to fan - no worky. fuse block on top of battery not melted.
Obviously I need a fan, but I was wondering about something else. since this started, my car gets to normal operating temp (NOT), in literally under 2-3 minutes. I know its Texas and a billion million degrees, but I think that's too fast.
Green top coolant temp sensor, and metal impeller water pump already installed.
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I have an 03 20th ani gti golf... It has been stuttering when idling and driving... Almost sounds like a subaru... I have changed the plugs/coilpacks but still does the same thing... My check engine light comes on and blinks.. Got the codes ran and it came up... Cylinder 2 misfire and catalytic convertor threshold....
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