GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Draining Fluid - Misfired Codes After Fixing Clutch
Mar 16, 2015
Cars have been having problems with the clutch sticking to the floor. Bled the brake valve. Seemed to fix the problem, took a 30 min drive following, and clutch to the floor 2x at the end of the drive. Then, my car started to sound like a freaking wrx! BARELY made it home and it will turn over but quickly spud out. checked codes and it missed fire in 3 cylinders and small puddle under the car. I'm stuck and out of ideas other than coils.
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Recently purchased 02 GTi 1.8t - Carfax Vin Check brings it up as a 337 but its only a 5 speed. Were 5 speed 337's made? Or is this just a vin error?
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Just wondering what are the different ways people are going about fixing the chips in the lenses? Mine are getting pretty bad and I was looking into fixing it myself.
Well took peoples advice for what worked and did up the headlights today. I think I didn't do enough sanding so I might do them again in the near future. They look better though I think. I took a few pics as I went for others to see and here they are
What they looked like when I started
The car
After sanding with the 600 grit
after sanding with 2000 grit
and end result
You might not be able to see the change very well but you can in person. A little more sanding next time and I think I will be good. Now time for a few
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Check engine light just came on. I scanned the car and the code PO704 came up.
"Clutch switch input circuit malfunction."
If I replace my clutch switch, will this solve the problem? I got the part number #1jo 927 189f i just want to make sure its that switch that's bad.
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I'm having some issues with my brake fluid going low every 2-3 weeks. I get the 3 beeps on the brake light and the flashing. Sometimes it's constant and flashes 15+ times. Sometimes it comes and goes throughout the day or even the week. After I fill up my fluid, it's fine. Usually, have to fill up a pretty good amount though. Almost a whole small bottle sometimes.
Obviously I'm having a leak but I'm not sure where. I'm a noob when it comes to brakes. My brakes work fine, clutch feels fine, etc.. I read around and was told it could be the clutch slave cylinder leaking, but is this common on the O2M? I looked at the lines around the master cylinder and nothing seems to be leaking. Also, I'm not noticing any brake fluid on my shoes or in the cabin. Any tips on what to check, what's common? Are the leaks most likely going to be in the engine bay?
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Ok, It doesn't start, it tries to but doesn't get there, its not the battery the alternator, the starter or the battery terminals which goes to my second question...for error codes do I just pop them in google to see what they mean or is there a better site??....reason why I'm removing the lip its because its being towed to the mechanic, its at my job's parking lot right now, first time ever my VW leaves me stranded but I guess it happens:
Error codes I got:
p0261
p0267
p0270
p0264
p0445
p0037
p2257
p0010
p0414
p0141B
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I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
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Today I went to start my car and let it warm up and everything worked fine and it started regularly but when I went to go drive the car and put the clutch in the pedal didn't return and I could not put it into gear, need to identify the problem.
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My wife was driving home and was exiting the freeway, downshifted and then no response from the clutch or gearbox. It would move left to right but not go into any gear with the car on. No real pressure in the clutch pedal either. With the car off you are able to find all the gears but when you start the car in gear with the clutch down it just jumps forward and dies. No smoke or burning smells either way and the pedal does come up by itself. Pushed the car into the driveway and its goin to the shop tomorrow morning.
With the search button so far: master/ slave cylinder, full clutch problem, air in brake/clutch lines, shifter linkage bracket
I don't think it's the slave cylinder as the pedal is NOT stuck to the floor, but I am not handy with cars, only motorcycles. First thing I checked was the linkage bracket, which seemed to be fine and as I stated, I was able to get in gear while car was off. Brake fluid was almost full but i know that doesnt rule out air in the lines.
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We were headed home the clutch pedal went soft... Ok, I thought it's either the clutch master or slave. I get it home and replace the master and after bleeding I had good pedal feel.
Great I thought, I got lucky and it was only the master. Drive it around for a bit and get on the highway and just as I was about to downshift the pedal went flat to the floor again.
Well after pumping the pedal until it had good feel again I got it home and bleed it a couple more times just to make sure I got all the air out. Drove it again. Same thing, after a little while the pedal gets soft again.
Now before I go and replace the slave is it possible I have a faulty master? Having issues after replacing the master?
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So I am pretty sure its my clutch that is the problem, here's what happens: When I go into second gear, it doesn't really grind.. but its tough to get it into gear and its only with second gear. sometimes it will go right in and others i have to double clutch. when i double clutch it goes in smooth every time. now I don't think it would be syncros because I am pretty sure if it was that it would do it every time I shift? It only does it while its cold or hasn't been drove in awhile.. but after i drive it around its fine so I am pretty sure its the clutch. Second thing, what is an upgraded clutch that is good for these 6 speed transmissions?
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Noticed recently that my clutch is starting to slip. It only seems to happen when I'm cruising in 6th and floor it. When the boost spikes, the revs will shoot up ~750 rpm and then settle back down before the car starts to pull. It is chipped Unitronic Stage 2 with some other bolt-ons.
What I'm wondering is, should I just drive it like this until it really starts to go, or should I replace it now? And what are my options for a new clutch? I don't want to big turbo this car, so the most it could get is a few more bolt-ons. I'd like a stock feeling clutch.
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I just put a stage 1 clutch in my 20th anniversary. When i was taking the transmission out, i dropped the hydraulic clutch line and all of the fluid spilled out. I got the whole thing done, and bled the clutch line and topped off the reservoir. I started the car and the clutch pedal had, what felt like the right amount of pressure. More than the stock, but not significantly. When i went to put it in gear, its like there is no clutch, just grinding and it doesn't go in to anywhere. I can cycle through the gears with the car off and like i said, the clutch has the right pressure and everything.
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For about two months I've been having a backfire problem but only when I get on it. We checked for leaks and nothing . The car had 11 codes and were all short to ground. Mechanic is saying my ecu is going out and I need a new one. Is it possible?
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Ok, I'm finally ready to dump out this stock tranny fluid and put in something else to alleviate the 3rd gear grind. Question is, which one should I put in?
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I have a peculiar problem. When auto crossing and driving the car hard, the lug bolts on only the front driver's side wheel have a tendency to loosen. I torque the bolts to 100 ft-lbs with a torque wrench, so I am confident they are tight before I start driving. The retaining screw holding the rotor in place loosens as well. The wheel has fallen off once already while driving.
I do notice in the transition from accelerating to decelerating (only sometimes) that there is a stuttering from the front driver's side (sounds a little like an out of balance wheel). When it happens, it's often at 55MPH in 5th and at lower speeds in lower gears. The car was leaking a little trans fluid too (.5qt), but I can't tell from where. It has since stopped.
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Noticed the other day my clutch pedal trim is coming off... What did you do to fix it?
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I just bought a 2005 GLI and when i test drove it the Clutch was extremely light when I shifted, I have never drove a gli before. Now after researching and further driving i think the clutch is going out. am i right? if so, should i bother putting in a new stock clutch kit or should i go stage one etc...
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I recently was driving home from a buddy's house, when at the light i go to put the car in 1st gear and it was way harder than normal. I kept driving just to try and get home but it was so bad that i never went past 3rd gear.. I'm pretty sure the clutch went out, since it was extremely hard to get the clutch to engage to get it from gear to gear, and i basically have to turn the car off to get it to stop so.....
I'm pretty new too the vw game, and don't know of any good companies as far as clutch kits. Im looking to buy somethings either oem like or a little better but with the same feel. also, just a Pressure plate and clutch. I doubt the flywheel is damaged.
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I keep finding air every time i bleed my clutch. I am not losing fluid but i can not figure out whats causing my problems. The pedal is soft at first and then gets harder and it sometimes needs pumped before i change gears or to even get into gear. I am afraid its the slave but i also just may have air in the system.
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So after replacing my shift forks in my 20th, installing a new clutchmasters fx100 clutch kit with a LWFW I've become a victim of the typical clutch disengagement issue.
In a nut shell car doesn't go into gear while the car is running. System is fully bled with no leaks and a brand new slave installed supplied by CM.
My understanding is the early FML code o2ms in the 20ths can not make use of the NLS shim kit and a stainless line is not a 100% fix.
Who's solved their disengagement issues and how?
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