GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Cylinder Misfire Codes For OBDII?
Aug 22, 2014
I changed my sparkplugs and coil packs last month. Was getting CEL light but it would go away after a while. I figured out that I had gapped my spark plugs way to small (almost touching) so I took them out two nights ago and regapped/ reseated them.
My car was running fine yesterday, but today when I started my car up, the engine was shaking a lot for about 10 seconds and the CEL was blinking. After 10 seconds the shaking and CEL went away...
It drove fine. I'm just wondering what could be throwing these CEL's and causing the shaking? Plugs are gapped to 0.32
Also, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced almost two weeks ago now. Any chance that could be lending to the problem?
My guess is that one or more cylinders are screwy. I'd rather not bring it into the vw mechanic since I'm tight on cash.
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Driving the other night I ran drove over a pot hole going about forty pulled up to the stop light and my car starts to make funny noises, barley got the car moving again but managed to get home. I hooked my computer up to it and it says misfire at cylinder 2 and 4.
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I am having this failure in my engine that is making me crazy while I am driving. Yesterday i took my car to a shop to see what was it. my MAF was gone ( I replaced it ) and the failure still going on. The mechanic connected his computer in my car and we went for a ride. HE told me cylinder 1 misfire.
This is what i did.
-change spark-plugs position (failure still)
-change coilpack (failure still)
What can i do ?
-clean injectors
-check for any carbon in valves
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So I have a 2004 Jetta gli 1.8turbo and my CEL came on last night from normal driving, after it came on it still drives the same. I had it scanned for codes and got the p0303 cylinder #3 misfire. wondering what could be the solution for this? I dont think its the coil pack because I had them changed at the dealer from the recall about 2 months ago (anyway to check?) Also I have 97,000 miles on my car and my last oil change I used 0w-40 oil. I know this is probably not the best oil to use at this mileage but I had an extra 5 quarts of them laying around so I decided to use it.
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I have a 99 town car with 78,000 miles. I filled the tank and have run about 1/4 tank when the engine started to misfire. Got the Service Engine Soon light so went to O'reily. The OBDII code is p0306 cyl 6 misfire. What would you check first?
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'I'm having an issue with my OBDII scanner not being able to read my ECU. I've never had issues before. I've been using a generic OBDII scanner with the Torque Android app for years but now suddenly it just doesn't connect. My biggest issue here is I have a smog check due in a few weeks. I took it to a smog check station and the guy used two different OBDII scanners with no luck. What could be the issue? Is it a blown fuse or something? If so, which fuse is it? (And no it has no aftermarket radio installed)
FYI: 2002 GTI 337
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My wife was driving her truck yesterday and said the MIL light started to flash and the truck felt like "it was about to blow up" . So when I got home I busted out the trusty old scanner and this is what I got:
P0305- Cyl 5 misfire'
P0354- Ignition coil D primary/ Secondary circuit malfunction
P0304- Cylinder 4 misfire
The truck is a 2005 5.4 with ~130,000 on it and it runs very well for the most part. I have done the spark plugs before the summer and replaced them with the motorcrasft sp-515s. I am guessing the problem will be with the #4&5 coil packs. is there a way to troubleshoot these?
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3 weeks ago my slave cylinder blew out in a big way so I limped it home and into the garage and onto jack stands. After tearing out the gearbox, replacing the clutch and slave, we get the thing all buttoned up and start to bleed the clutch.
We feel as though we were making progress but upon pressing the pedal it stopped halfway to the floor, pressing harder now it would go to the floor slowly, then we start to hear the dripping again coming out of the bell housing. If we push on the pedal now, it goes half way down and stops, if you keep pushing harder you can tell that we are just pushing the fluid out at the slave cylinder and it start dripping hard again.
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This has been happening intermittently for a while now. The car has about 97k on it and I within the last 1000 miles have replace the timing belt, water pump, coolant temp sensor, tensioners, thermostat, and MAF (OEM BOSCH from ECS).
The car was overheating; all the cooling/timing related stuff was changed, no issues for a few weeks. Then it started misfiring and stalling like a madman in cyls 2 and 3. Ran ran if for the code pulled the MAF and sure enough it looks like the PO never cleaned it as there were probably 2mm of buildup on it; as preventative maintenance I went ahead and just replaced it completely.
Now, less than a week after I replaced the MAF the car will make random little popping noises under hard acceleration, and randomly will just completely stall; without showing the battery or check engine lights, similar to how it was stalling right before the MAF went bad. I live three miles from my office and it has happened going to and from every day for the past two weeks.
As far as I know the car is mostly stock (I purchased in in March). However it does have a knockoff BPV of some sort that I think could be causing the issue as the popping noise sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the car. What this might be (if it's not the BPV).
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Ok, It doesn't start, it tries to but doesn't get there, its not the battery the alternator, the starter or the battery terminals which goes to my second question...for error codes do I just pop them in google to see what they mean or is there a better site??....reason why I'm removing the lip its because its being towed to the mechanic, its at my job's parking lot right now, first time ever my VW leaves me stranded but I guess it happens:
Error codes I got:
p0261
p0267
p0270
p0264
p0445
p0037
p2257
p0010
p0414
p0141B
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So i got two codes.... P0300 and P0305. I am thinking its the coilpacks because i changed the spark plugs a few months ago. Cleared it last week and came back today. What else could it be? And is it ok to just change one coil pack or do i have to do all of them? The recall was done in 2007.
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My 2011 Accent's engine light came on recently. The mechanic said it was a cylinder 3 misfire and recommend changing the spark plug and coil pack for that cylinder. We did that over the weekend. Now the light is back on and has read 5 codes in the past 12 hours (4 at one time). They are P0303, P0304, P0003, P0403, and P0100. I have looked the codes up and can't discern if any could be caused by one main issue. About a month ago it read a code for the oxy sensor, but it went away and never came back.
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So i have a 2004.5 gli 6spd that had two of the coils go bad and had a serious misfire with engine code and all car didnt want to even move. So i got this fixed made it about a mile down the road and it had a cylinder 3 misfire took it back had third coil replaced and all new plugs put it. Got the car back it ran fine until i hit about 4000 rpm under heavy boost it misfires but no flashing cel like before and the car still runs but cold start warmed up it misfires under boost
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So i just got back into town after not driving her for about a week, started her up(barely), and saw engine light. While on the engine putters and sounds bad. The exhaust smells like gas. I have done no Mods except for APR stage one and a K & N air filter. Is it misfiring? Is my software bad?
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For about two months I've been having a backfire problem but only when I get on it. We checked for leaks and nothing . The car had 11 codes and were all short to ground. Mechanic is saying my ecu is going out and I need a new one. Is it possible?
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I bought a 2001 golf gls 1.8T (AWW) about a month ago and it was running pretty bad, was throwing some codes, cylinder 1 misfire and some o2 sensor codes, I replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and then cleaned the MAF. It was still running bad ,rough idle and power loss. I figured it had to be some kind of vacuum leak, I replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the intercooler and put on a silicon TIP. Still had some rough idle and power loss, checked for vacuum leaks, using the good ole starter fluid method and found my intake manifold was leaking so I replaced that gasket. STILL rough idle and power loss, now I'm pulling codes for o2 sensor and a misfire in cylinder 3. My question is, should I replace my pre-cat o2 sensor or replace my MAF sensor? Or are there other things that should also be checked/replace.
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Trying to troubleshoot my 2001 Elantra (173k). I'm having intermittent trouble codes being set and I'm wondering if they may be related:
P0302
P0303
P0446
The cylinder 2 and 3 misfires are relatively recent. Plugs and wires are visually ok (and not that old). I swapped plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the plugs are bad. It took 3-4 days, but the P0303 set again (and it's very intermittent - car will noticeably lose power for a few seconds, code set, then run fine for several days). I also sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold gasket with no change in engine idle, so the gasket appears to be intact.
I had read in a forum somewhere that the misfires could be related to a vacuum leak, which could also be setting the P0446 code. I removed the charcoal canister and inspected the lines - visually ok.
I bench-tested the canister control valve and it did operate, though I noticed some charcoal blocking the valve so it would not close all the way when energized. I used compressed air to blow the debris out of the valve and it appears to close properly now.
I went to hmaservice.com and noticed there are no instructions for the P0446 DTC. I've been using a Haynes manual instead. For quite some time now when refueling, the fuel nozzle shuts off every few seconds (I have to slowly put the fuel in to avoid).
Some questions:
- Can these codes be related?
- Based on my symptoms, should I replace the canister control valve? What about the charcoal canister and the charcoal air filter - should those be replaced as well?
- What else should I check?
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We bought the car used for my youngest daughter and it had a couple of codes in it. 1st was the o2 sensor.. easy fix, grabbed an OEM one and stuck it in. Then there was the Cyl 2/ multiple cyl misfire codes that kept getting thrown.
I've seen a bunch of post about people pretty much doing the same things I started out with and still having a problem.....
1) Swapped around all the coils.. still got a #2 misfire... So, coils are good.
2) Swapped in NGK Platinum plugs with a .032 gap.... still getting misfire.
3) Replaced the crank shaft position sensor...... still misfire
4) Noticed that there was an Ebay injector in the #2 cyl...... when I pulled the plugs, that cyl was running a little lean..... bought an OEM injector to go back in there...... still getting misfire
SO, I tried using a propane torch head and putting out gas around the intake to search for vacuum leak and got no response....... so, for the heck of it, I went old school and grabbed a can of starting fluid and started spraying it on the intake around where it bolts to head... bam... found a vacuum leak on #2 cyl....... ordered an intake gasket off of ebay, spent about 3 hours on it pulling the intake and replacing the gasket,( the bolts had loosened up over time and there were small tears in the gasket allowing it to suck air) .. put the new gasket on, cleared the codes and it's been running perfect ever since.
Check for a vacuum leak where the intake manifold bolts to the head... might save time and money.
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I am currently chasing misfire codes that started out on cylinder 5 p0305 was the first code I replaced spark plugs and wires about 200 miles the code returned checked coil with meter it was barley in spec. I have replaced coil same code only difference was a hard start cold or hot replaced injectors now hard start is fixed but logging codes for right bank is to rich and p0300 304 305 and 306 also performed compression test on right bank and readings are 155 155 and 160...
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I have a 2004 Jetta gli 1.8turbo my car has 97,000 miles and the last oil change i did was with 0w-40 oil, can this cause my check engline light to come on and 2 cylinder misfires? should i change oil to 5w- or 10w- asap?
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I am trying to swap my ecu for a chipped one out of an 04 gti 1.8. Both awp engine codes. I programmed the immobilized and the car doesn't start. I am thinking it has the ignition kill feature but the guy who sold it to me doesn't think it does. i was just wondering if the ecu's are compatible even though the part number is different.
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