GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Coolant Light Came On - Faulty Temperature Gauge
Dec 1, 2010
Last night I went to drive my car and my coolant light went on. I checked the overflow and it was very low. There was barely any left in the overflow. I thought this was strange because I had just checked the coolant a couple days ago. The coolant that was in my car was an orange color (after searching I realized that I think this is g12 which I was unfamiliar with). Before searching I added Prestone 50/50 pre diluted green coolant. The bottle said it was mixable with any type of coolant color or kind. After reading more threads I'm seeing that I think the g12 just contracted with the cold weather and I should of just left everything. I have barely driven the car since adding the prestone. Am I doing harm mixing in the prestone? If so, How can I fix this?
On another note, With the cold weather my temp gauge seems to be acting a little funny. Once the car is up to operating temperature the gauge will then drop around 40-50 degrees. It will then stay like this while im driving, but then will go back to normal once the car is stopped and running.
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Ok I was driving home right know from work, and looking at the speedometer, i notice that my temperature gauge turns off (the needle goes all the way down). what can it be?
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I have replaced radiator and thermostat, awhile back.. I checked and there is antifreeze in the radiator and the reservoir. I don't drive it unless i really have to. and not to far,lots more work to do on it. But the coolant light started blinking the other day. Temperature gauge inside is ok. What could this be? what should I do? Still haven't got the blower working, heater / ac / defrost.
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Had it done at 87K years ago. Coolant light came on car had been rattling. Parked and coolant came leaking out. At 157K now was gonna replace belt at 167k, that's 80k since the last job. My guy says had I drove it further would be looking at a new 1.8t.
Does this sound about right to you since it's been 70k since that last timing water pump job. Why didn't the car overheat? Chipped at 40k with apr and very conservative driver. I suppose it just depends on too many variables why the job needs to be done 10k before I originally planned to do it.
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Recently its been pretty cold here, and in the morning or when it sits for awhile i start her up and about 10secs after i start her the little "stop" light comes on and says "check coolant". so went through all that, checked the service manual and dont see any red flags. and if i were to turn it off and then turn it back on it wont show again... but still curious.
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Okay I just installed a boost gauge in my car and when I cranked it up it said airbag fault and the airbag light is on now.. What it could be?
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So i start my car up drive about fifty feet and my temp gauge shoots all the way up, check engine light comes on and coolant light keeps going off......What is wrong with my car?
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(6 speed)... I have faulty reverse lights, my speed sensor is working so I am sure it isn't the fuse, I am guessing this means the switch/sensor is broken. Where it is located, and what the correct part number is?
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Stop check coolant light came on dash tonight. Scanned the car no code. Did a search pointed towards coolant temp sensor. Car had it replaced by vw estimate of 30,000 miles ago. I tried to see if its green top sensor appears the very bottom ring is green but top is black maybe vw's is different than ecs? Planning to do water pump, belt kit from ecs anything else i should be looking at?
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I know it has to do with the thermostat and coolant sensor but I am trying to hold off on doing it till the winter cause my car is at 68k so i will be doing the timing belt. It would be easier to install them all at once. is it bad to keep driving the car with this problem?
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Engine temperature too low. Turbo boost pressure too high. The car has the APR 93 octane program, carbonio intake, and silicone TIP.
What could be causing these codes? The car gets up to temp (190) real quick and stays there, and I don't feel a fluctuation of boost.
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I have a '99 1.8T Passat. The coolant temperature gauge normally reaches operating temperature of 190 degrees within about 5 minutes and stays there. For some reason, after reaching 190, it sometimes drops by 20-30 degrees and is running cooler than normal. Once time it dropped down, then came back up again, while driving a steady 65 mph. The coolant level is full and nothing else has changed.
I guess there are a few possibilities: a thermostat stuck open too far, a failing temperature sensor, bad gauge, or loose connection at the sensor. The car has 145K miles and the thermostat and water pump were replaced at about 100K miles. What is going on? If it runs a little too cool, is that a big deal? How would I diagnose it? Where is the temperature sensor?
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Just about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
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I was driving and noticed that my temperature gauge went close to the warning zone so I blasted the heat and it went back down. When the car cooled I popped the hood and noticed that the coolant reservoir was pretty close to full but I couldn't see any coolant in the radiator. I filled the radiator with water for now but it looks like it gone again. I cannot spot any actual cracks or leaks on the hoses but I did spot a puddle of coolant in the groves on top of the transmission. The closest hose I can spot next to the puddle is the lower radiator hose but I really do not know too much about cars. I also noticed a hissing sound today coming from the radiator cap, which I am going to replace. Where the leak could be which is causing the puddle on top of the tranny?
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Temperature gauge quit working after changing the thermostat and coolant.
With the engine off, I disconnected the single wire from the temperature sending unit and switched on the ignition without starting engine. The gauge pointer stayed in at the Cold mark. Using a Jumper wire, I grounded the sending unit wire and the needle on the gauge went to the Hot mark.
I quickly turned off the ignition, and replaced the sending unit with a SW-2328 (F1SZ-10884-A) Temp Sender. Warmed up the engine, but still no reading on the dash gauge.
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Basically my coolant temperature gauge either reads as the hottest it can be, or the coldest. It doesn't jump around a whole bunch, but it's always all the way to one end or the other. From what I've read there seems to be a lot of different temperature sensors, so I get a little confused with all of the abbreviations, but I'm fairly certain I checked the correct one, next to the thermostat housing.
Using a multimeter I checked the resistance of the sensor, and it was around 600 ohms about 30 minutes after it had been driven. I'm not sure if this is where it should be or not, but it was rising as the truck cooled off.
Anyway, I'm not sure if I just tested the sensor incorrectly or if there could be another issue. A friend of mine suggested that the thermostat may have gotten stuck or something, but it doesn't seem like the gauge would switch at all if that were the case. What I should check to try and fix this.
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I'm not sure what to make of this ... I disconnected the battery before installing . The gauge seems to be reading correct based on what i researched. If there was a slight leak would it throw the CEL ? is it maybe just a one time thing that needs to be cleared afterwards ? Car drives fine and I plan on trying to stop at autozone to get there crapo freebie scan . Kinda annoyed considering everything went smoothly up until I drove the car more then 50 miles .
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I need to know how to install an oil pressure gauge...or what is the location on the oil filter flange where this thing gets installed...
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I just replaced my turbo inlet hose because I was losing boost due to a crack in the OEM one. After I replaced it, my speedometer stopped working and my gas gauge goes up and down when I drive it. I saw a sensor broken off when I looked under hood but I couldn't tell which one it was. Besides obviously replacing that sensor. I'm not sure if the two are correlated.
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I don't think this is normal since my 01 2004.5 GLi go all the way... Note that i took this picture right after i "full" fueled the car (Just drove 2.3miles)...
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The needle has always stuck dead on 190f when it gets up to temp. About a week ago I took the center grill of to paint, I put it back on and the check engine light came on ... code p2433 secondary air pump problem. I figured I had just disturbed something etc. Now the coolant gauge is going up to around 240f during normal driving, the fan stays on for about a minute when I turn off the ignition.
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