GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Coilovers Installation - Lower Strut Mounting Bolt Seized
Jul 16, 2012
I am installing my coilovers on my gli and I have everything installed but the passenger side coilover. I cant even remove the old strut because the damn lower strut mounting bolt is seized and I've been trying for hours to remove it at no avail. I have used pb blaster, my heat gun, and my sweat. I dont have impact tools, just my ratchet..
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Was replacing the struts and front ball joints on my wife's '04 Explorer last week. I get to the last one (driver's side front) and the lower strut bolt seems to be frozen to the bushing. I heated it up and beat on it a little bit. Nothing. Just wondering for some other way or am I going to have to cut it out?
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I have a 20th ae, and I figured how to lower the fronts a bit...but the backs, I tried searching but didn't find much......
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I just got 4 brand new tires put on balanced and aligned twice. Now when the wheel is straight i get minimal vibration. But if I turn left I get no vibration. When I turn right at all its a pretty medium loudness vibration. almost sounds like something rubbing. Now I just found out my coilovers are all messed up on height. If I level it do you think that will fix my vibration? the guy at tire plus said possible transmission causing vibration but the tranny seems fine to me. he also said if I raised it about a quarter inch it could stop it all together possibly. But I love being low....
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I busted a spring and apparently a strut. The mechanic said I'd need to replace the front suspension, and offered to do it for 1000$ which I thought was very high. Now I am debating whether to simply get a cup kit or coil overs. I am leaning towards the cup kit to save money. Now I am curious what you guys think regarding the H&R cup kit and where I could get the best deal on them.
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Is this possible? I recently installed raceland ultimos and I get this weird muffled noise from the top of the rear suspension. Took it all apart, cut the bump stops shorter, and lubed the strut mounts. Sound went away for about 10 mins of driving, went for another drive and the sound was back. The next day the weather was warmer and the noise was gone. Should I just get new strut mounts?
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what is the bolt pattern for the rims of a gti 20th anniversary??
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What is the mk4 standard locking lug bolt? IIRC it was like a 16 point.
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How hard it is to install a turbo manifold??
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I am having an issue after my intake install, it was working fine all day and last night i get a light on the dash bored (looks like the one when you take off the esp) and I get this:
code 16485 Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) Implausible Signal : P0101
Static - No
What could be the cause of this because i ran this intake before no issues I only took it off and put the stock intake back in due to the rain but now since the rain is gone i decided to switch
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Was installing led license plate lights and they turned on for a second then shut off, I began trying to switch them around and do whatever I could but still wouldn't light up even put the stock ones in again and they wouldn't work.
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OK, maybe I'm just spooking myself, but I've been getting poorer gas mileage than usual as of late, like 4 to 5 mpg less. I used to get 30+ when I took my car to work, but lately I've been getting 25 to 26 mpg. I calculated it out and it seemed less still, though I didn't do a very accurate calculation.
The other day, I felt like my ESP was kicking in early because my tires are getting a bit old and bald, so I turned it off for my drive home. I immediately noticed that I felt like more power was available (though that was probably my mind playing tricks) and my average MPG for the trip shot up to the 28.5 mpg range with some spirited driving.
Where the ESP or ASR has caused lower MPG? I replaced my MAF sensor recently because it had gone bad, or at least I was fairly certain it had, but now I'm not sure. I also have coil-packs due in the next few thousand miles or so as well, but this seems sporadic. I diagnosed the MAF (which the car was getting around 22MPG before the change) by disconnecting it. It shot up to the 30MPG range with it disconnected, but thinking back, my CEL as well as the ESP light came on. I'm wondering if my ECU turned off the ESP with the MAF disconnected and that is what increased my mileage, not the bad MAF...
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I just put on some brand new Bilstein shocks/struts with new mounts and some Neuspeed springs. It seems like the rear sits lower than the front. Maybe some polo bushings to bring the front down a bit? No stereo stuff of anything in the trunk..
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I want to put lower grill fogs in my GLI, but was concerned about them interfering with the intercooler system. I currently have an upgraded SMIC, but was concerned the lower grill fogs would impede a significant airflow to the SMIC.
Additionally, I do plan on going to a FMIC in the near future and wasn't sure if people were able to run the fog lights while still having space for the FMIC piping.
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Looking to have it installed? I bought it but I haven't installed it yet...
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Okay I just installed a boost gauge in my car and when I cranked it up it said airbag fault and the airbag light is on now.. What it could be?
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For some reason My car won't boost like it used to in the upper gears. 1st, 2nd and even 3rd I can still boost around 18 but once I go 4th, 5th, 6th my boost get lower and lower to the point the I get only 10psi in 6th gear. The car also seems slower a doesn't spool that fast like it used. i checked most of the hoses, even my intercooler pipes which were leaking before and everything is tight. Could it be my DV which is still stock or should I look someplace else?
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I own a 1998 Buick Regal with 213,000 miles on it. Recently I've noticed the rear strut plates in the inner wheel wells are very rusted and each has a crack along the wheel well. I've taken the vehicle to three auto body shops and none of them have been willing to provide a written estimate for repair. Is this a problem that isn't worth the trouble to fix? I still value the car and the 3.8 v6 still runs great ... but maybe it's time to retire it.
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Recently purchased an '05 GLI (my second mk4) and it has the stock RCs and Eagle F1 tires. They are good on tread, wear pattern, and pressure, but seem to be making an awful lot of road noise, especially at lower speeds and decelerating to around 20 mph. as I read in one post "it sounds like a semi-truck". When I test drove the car it was still in winter mode and there were no noises or pull and so I do not suspect any mechanical issues.
It does not result in any real vibration that you can see in the wheel, but you feel the buzzing. the steering is straight and true as well with no pulling left or right. IT'S JUST LOUD!! lifted the front end and shook the front wheels. the bearings seem nice and tight with no wiggle. I was going to remove the tires and rotate, or put on the spare to see for a diff, but the BBS tool for the center caps is a POS and I couldn't get them off. So ultimately I'm looking for some vortex advice on this noise, its causes, remedies, and and anything else I should be looking for.
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Whenever I take a turn my seat slides side to side, both bolts are tight in the front. Is there a way to tighten the lower half of the seat so it doesn't move?
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how long should the bolts be that mount the distributor to the (non-california) 5sfe? I'm putting my car back together (finally) and the only bolts from my pile that fit are one that is too long, and two that are only a couple threads longer than the width of the distributor flange. simplest conclusion is that the latter are the bolts that were there, but does that seem right?
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