GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Clutch Soft In The Cold, Stiffens Up When Warmed Up
Feb 8, 2011
20th with 120,000 miles. Ok here's my problem, get in my car in the morning after a coldish night, (around freezing) clutch pedal goes almost to the floor with no resistance, i pump it a say 5 or 6 times and it gets stiffer but not 100% i drive it for 10 or 15 min and it warms up and the clutch gets back to normal stiffness. I'm thinking its the master or slave cylinder going bad or maybe it just needs to be bled and before i go and buy both of them and replace them, just wanted some opinions. Also its not leaking fluid at all and the reservoir is full.
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We were headed home the clutch pedal went soft... Ok, I thought it's either the clutch master or slave. I get it home and replace the master and after bleeding I had good pedal feel.
Great I thought, I got lucky and it was only the master. Drive it around for a bit and get on the highway and just as I was about to downshift the pedal went flat to the floor again.
Well after pumping the pedal until it had good feel again I got it home and bleed it a couple more times just to make sure I got all the air out. Drove it again. Same thing, after a little while the pedal gets soft again.
Now before I go and replace the slave is it possible I have a faulty master? Having issues after replacing the master?
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I keep finding air every time i bleed my clutch. I am not losing fluid but i can not figure out whats causing my problems. The pedal is soft at first and then gets harder and it sometimes needs pumped before i change gears or to even get into gear. I am afraid its the slave but i also just may have air in the system.
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I have an Imola 20th and recently i have been having some problems with my clutch. The pedal goes from being soft to very hard when its close to disengaging. It also engages very heavily when I go to let it out. This only started happening recently when temperatures started to drop if this has any effect on a clutch. Also, I replaced a shift fork two months ago and was curious if there was possibly anything going on with seals around the slave cylinder.
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Preliminary info:
APR 93 tune
Carbonio Intake
Silicone TIP
I picked up my 20th today and drove it 4 hours home. It has 74k on it, original timing belt. The timing belt kit is in the mail on its way here. Its the first thing I'm doing.
As I was driving it home on the autobahn doing about 150k/hr and I gave it half throttle to pass, I felt the turbo spool and I accelerated past the car. However, when I went to make the next pass, it felt like I had no power. I feathered the throttle a bit and it felt like my car was only getting maybe 3 PSI of boost. Very little actually. I do not have a boost gauge so I can't really say it accurately. As I was driving, i shut the ignition off and turned it back on. After that, I was able to get full pressure back.
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A 2003 20th GTI (1104). It has the 1.8T engine. Car has appx 75k miles on it, timing belt has not been done yet.
My concern is here: I checked it out the other day, and while it was running I heard a soft whirring sound coming from the engine. So I popped the hood and I couldn't really put my finger on what it could've been. I liked the car aside from that, and would like to get it, but I don't want a car with problems.
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2002 GTi 337 not shifting out of 1st until is warmed up for 20 min. Then shifts fine. I've already attempted to add the "liquid gold" G-052-990-A2 ATF fluid from VW at $35qt. I put in about 200ML to no change, then another 200ML to no change. So from reading other posts in VWvortex I've seen many folks with the Jetta have had very similar symptoms. They are installing a new (Solenoid valve N92 (green) to fix this issue. Many of them are even using over the counter synthetic ATF. Before I dig in, just wanted to know what folks with the GTi 337 think about this? Am I dealing with basically the same transmission?
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2004.5 GLI 1.8t. Its got 70k on the clock, its a Cali car, runs like a charm BUT... For some reason when it gets warmed up, it makes a knocking noise by the pass side floor board?
Its just at idle, i mean i can give it a little rev, and it doesn't seem to get worse so that eliminates bottom end or head... so???? Ive read some post on here that say... its nothing... just ignore it... but idk.
Like I said its just at idle and it sounds like its coming from the pass floorboard.... I left it running and popped the hood and couldn't hear it.
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I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
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Today I went to start my car and let it warm up and everything worked fine and it started regularly but when I went to go drive the car and put the clutch in the pedal didn't return and I could not put it into gear, need to identify the problem.
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My wife was driving home and was exiting the freeway, downshifted and then no response from the clutch or gearbox. It would move left to right but not go into any gear with the car on. No real pressure in the clutch pedal either. With the car off you are able to find all the gears but when you start the car in gear with the clutch down it just jumps forward and dies. No smoke or burning smells either way and the pedal does come up by itself. Pushed the car into the driveway and its goin to the shop tomorrow morning.
With the search button so far: master/ slave cylinder, full clutch problem, air in brake/clutch lines, shifter linkage bracket
I don't think it's the slave cylinder as the pedal is NOT stuck to the floor, but I am not handy with cars, only motorcycles. First thing I checked was the linkage bracket, which seemed to be fine and as I stated, I was able to get in gear while car was off. Brake fluid was almost full but i know that doesnt rule out air in the lines.
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So I am pretty sure its my clutch that is the problem, here's what happens: When I go into second gear, it doesn't really grind.. but its tough to get it into gear and its only with second gear. sometimes it will go right in and others i have to double clutch. when i double clutch it goes in smooth every time. now I don't think it would be syncros because I am pretty sure if it was that it would do it every time I shift? It only does it while its cold or hasn't been drove in awhile.. but after i drive it around its fine so I am pretty sure its the clutch. Second thing, what is an upgraded clutch that is good for these 6 speed transmissions?
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Noticed recently that my clutch is starting to slip. It only seems to happen when I'm cruising in 6th and floor it. When the boost spikes, the revs will shoot up ~750 rpm and then settle back down before the car starts to pull. It is chipped Unitronic Stage 2 with some other bolt-ons.
What I'm wondering is, should I just drive it like this until it really starts to go, or should I replace it now? And what are my options for a new clutch? I don't want to big turbo this car, so the most it could get is a few more bolt-ons. I'd like a stock feeling clutch.
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I just put a stage 1 clutch in my 20th anniversary. When i was taking the transmission out, i dropped the hydraulic clutch line and all of the fluid spilled out. I got the whole thing done, and bled the clutch line and topped off the reservoir. I started the car and the clutch pedal had, what felt like the right amount of pressure. More than the stock, but not significantly. When i went to put it in gear, its like there is no clutch, just grinding and it doesn't go in to anywhere. I can cycle through the gears with the car off and like i said, the clutch has the right pressure and everything.
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Noticed the other day my clutch pedal trim is coming off... What did you do to fix it?
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I just bought a 2005 GLI and when i test drove it the Clutch was extremely light when I shifted, I have never drove a gli before. Now after researching and further driving i think the clutch is going out. am i right? if so, should i bother putting in a new stock clutch kit or should i go stage one etc...
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I recently was driving home from a buddy's house, when at the light i go to put the car in 1st gear and it was way harder than normal. I kept driving just to try and get home but it was so bad that i never went past 3rd gear.. I'm pretty sure the clutch went out, since it was extremely hard to get the clutch to engage to get it from gear to gear, and i basically have to turn the car off to get it to stop so.....
I'm pretty new too the vw game, and don't know of any good companies as far as clutch kits. Im looking to buy somethings either oem like or a little better but with the same feel. also, just a Pressure plate and clutch. I doubt the flywheel is damaged.
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So after replacing my shift forks in my 20th, installing a new clutchmasters fx100 clutch kit with a LWFW I've become a victim of the typical clutch disengagement issue.
In a nut shell car doesn't go into gear while the car is running. System is fully bled with no leaks and a brand new slave installed supplied by CM.
My understanding is the early FML code o2ms in the 20ths can not make use of the NLS shim kit and a stainless line is not a 100% fix.
Who's solved their disengagement issues and how?
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I just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
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Just got in my car and the clutch went to the floor and stayed there when I stepped on it. What are the steps to diagnose this problem? I'm assuming my slave cylinder went kaput!
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50k Miles on my clutch. Was driving a couple weeks ago on the highway and clutch stuck to the floor. At first I thought it was my Slave cylinder. Got the trans out this weekend to find the mess (below) inside my bell housing. Obviously need a new clutch now and will still replace the slave while I am in there.
Cars setup is around 375ish whp. I know I could spend 1300 bucks and call it a day for a clutch master or south bend but was seeing if there is a cheaper alternative.
Also If I were to buy an OEM clutch or an upgraded one that was not rated for up to 400~whp would it drive and pull the same as a fully upgraded one just not last as long?
6 Speed ...
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