GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Clutch Is Starting To Slip
Mar 2, 2011
Noticed recently that my clutch is starting to slip. It only seems to happen when I'm cruising in 6th and floor it. When the boost spikes, the revs will shoot up ~750 rpm and then settle back down before the car starts to pull. It is chipped Unitronic Stage 2 with some other bolt-ons.
What I'm wondering is, should I just drive it like this until it really starts to go, or should I replace it now? And what are my options for a new clutch? I don't want to big turbo this car, so the most it could get is a few more bolt-ons. I'd like a stock feeling clutch.
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So I was on the free way in 6th gear and decided to get on it, the rpm's shot up and I barely picked up speed. It's only a slight clutch slip tho only really noticeable in 6th gear so I was wondering what clutch I should go with because I was planning on going BT eventually.
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I have a 2010 gti with stage 2 tune, and mk6 clutch starting to slip? i have 30,000 miles, i am starting to do my research on the clutches. I am also looking in to just replacing the clutch disk, and i am wondering it just the clutch disk will hold up?
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I have a 2012 GTi. I just got the stage 2 unitronic flash on my car and now my clutch slips bad. I know i will need to replace my clutch. It was starting to slip before the tune and now it just cant handle it. The shop I went to recommended a South Bend Stage 2 Clutch kit (single mass). Its a daily driver and want something that will last and hold up to 325ftlbs of torque. I do think i want to go with the single mass clutch though.
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Alright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
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My 20th has been having a starting issue and I've honestly tried everything I can think of, this issue just randomly started one day the car will not start on first crank it starts second or third every time. After it's started and running it runs perfect its just getting it started.
I've replaced the Crankshaft sensor, Camshaft sensor, Coolant temp sensor, the car has had new injectors (440) installed about two months ago, has the new battery. My father is a mechanic and he has also tried everything he knows to do and we asked our local VW specialist and he said to try the things we have already did. Ran codes when the issue started and it only came up with camshaft sensor and we replaced that and cleared the code still nothing. Once this issue started we parked the car and started troubleshooting and the oil was low? even though I know before the issue started it was good and full. the car has a stage two intronic tune, 440 injectors, secondary air delete and all and a shaved and partially tucked bay, there are no resistors is the open unused sensors.
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I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
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Today I went to start my car and let it warm up and everything worked fine and it started regularly but when I went to go drive the car and put the clutch in the pedal didn't return and I could not put it into gear, need to identify the problem.
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My wife was driving home and was exiting the freeway, downshifted and then no response from the clutch or gearbox. It would move left to right but not go into any gear with the car on. No real pressure in the clutch pedal either. With the car off you are able to find all the gears but when you start the car in gear with the clutch down it just jumps forward and dies. No smoke or burning smells either way and the pedal does come up by itself. Pushed the car into the driveway and its goin to the shop tomorrow morning.
With the search button so far: master/ slave cylinder, full clutch problem, air in brake/clutch lines, shifter linkage bracket
I don't think it's the slave cylinder as the pedal is NOT stuck to the floor, but I am not handy with cars, only motorcycles. First thing I checked was the linkage bracket, which seemed to be fine and as I stated, I was able to get in gear while car was off. Brake fluid was almost full but i know that doesnt rule out air in the lines.
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We were headed home the clutch pedal went soft... Ok, I thought it's either the clutch master or slave. I get it home and replace the master and after bleeding I had good pedal feel.
Great I thought, I got lucky and it was only the master. Drive it around for a bit and get on the highway and just as I was about to downshift the pedal went flat to the floor again.
Well after pumping the pedal until it had good feel again I got it home and bleed it a couple more times just to make sure I got all the air out. Drove it again. Same thing, after a little while the pedal gets soft again.
Now before I go and replace the slave is it possible I have a faulty master? Having issues after replacing the master?
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So I am pretty sure its my clutch that is the problem, here's what happens: When I go into second gear, it doesn't really grind.. but its tough to get it into gear and its only with second gear. sometimes it will go right in and others i have to double clutch. when i double clutch it goes in smooth every time. now I don't think it would be syncros because I am pretty sure if it was that it would do it every time I shift? It only does it while its cold or hasn't been drove in awhile.. but after i drive it around its fine so I am pretty sure its the clutch. Second thing, what is an upgraded clutch that is good for these 6 speed transmissions?
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I just put a stage 1 clutch in my 20th anniversary. When i was taking the transmission out, i dropped the hydraulic clutch line and all of the fluid spilled out. I got the whole thing done, and bled the clutch line and topped off the reservoir. I started the car and the clutch pedal had, what felt like the right amount of pressure. More than the stock, but not significantly. When i went to put it in gear, its like there is no clutch, just grinding and it doesn't go in to anywhere. I can cycle through the gears with the car off and like i said, the clutch has the right pressure and everything.
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I just picked up my new GLI the other day. It sounds like a diesel when I start it up. It only has 200 miles so far, so I'm not sure if it's because it hasn't been broken in. My dad has a brand new A4 1.8T with about as many miles as my GLI and it doesn't sound anything like mine when its started up. I don't remember other GLI's sounding like mine when I test drove them. Is this normal or am I being oversensative?
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I was in traffic the other day on the express way and I noticed my engine was starting to overheat. I think it has something to do with the AC because as soon as I turned it off the temp went back to normal. What it could be?
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Noticed the other day my clutch pedal trim is coming off... What did you do to fix it?
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I just bought a 2005 GLI and when i test drove it the Clutch was extremely light when I shifted, I have never drove a gli before. Now after researching and further driving i think the clutch is going out. am i right? if so, should i bother putting in a new stock clutch kit or should i go stage one etc...
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I recently was driving home from a buddy's house, when at the light i go to put the car in 1st gear and it was way harder than normal. I kept driving just to try and get home but it was so bad that i never went past 3rd gear.. I'm pretty sure the clutch went out, since it was extremely hard to get the clutch to engage to get it from gear to gear, and i basically have to turn the car off to get it to stop so.....
I'm pretty new too the vw game, and don't know of any good companies as far as clutch kits. Im looking to buy somethings either oem like or a little better but with the same feel. also, just a Pressure plate and clutch. I doubt the flywheel is damaged.
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I keep finding air every time i bleed my clutch. I am not losing fluid but i can not figure out whats causing my problems. The pedal is soft at first and then gets harder and it sometimes needs pumped before i change gears or to even get into gear. I am afraid its the slave but i also just may have air in the system.
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So after replacing my shift forks in my 20th, installing a new clutchmasters fx100 clutch kit with a LWFW I've become a victim of the typical clutch disengagement issue.
In a nut shell car doesn't go into gear while the car is running. System is fully bled with no leaks and a brand new slave installed supplied by CM.
My understanding is the early FML code o2ms in the 20ths can not make use of the NLS shim kit and a stainless line is not a 100% fix.
Who's solved their disengagement issues and how?
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I just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
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Just got in my car and the clutch went to the floor and stayed there when I stepped on it. What are the steps to diagnose this problem? I'm assuming my slave cylinder went kaput!
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