GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Clutch Replaced - No Pressure In Pedal
Mar 18, 2012
I just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
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I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
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We were headed home the clutch pedal went soft... Ok, I thought it's either the clutch master or slave. I get it home and replace the master and after bleeding I had good pedal feel.
Great I thought, I got lucky and it was only the master. Drive it around for a bit and get on the highway and just as I was about to downshift the pedal went flat to the floor again.
Well after pumping the pedal until it had good feel again I got it home and bleed it a couple more times just to make sure I got all the air out. Drove it again. Same thing, after a little while the pedal gets soft again.
Now before I go and replace the slave is it possible I have a faulty master? Having issues after replacing the master?
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Noticed the other day my clutch pedal trim is coming off... What did you do to fix it?
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I keep finding air every time i bleed my clutch. I am not losing fluid but i can not figure out whats causing my problems. The pedal is soft at first and then gets harder and it sometimes needs pumped before i change gears or to even get into gear. I am afraid its the slave but i also just may have air in the system.
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So last night I was driving home from work, and at a red light while i was waiting to go i had my clutch down when light turned green i tried to go and noticed i could not put it in gear and that my clutch pedal was stuck in place. i didn't know what to do so I checked my shifter plate everything looked fine so went to look at the pedal and i pulled it forward and it came lose. I started it up everything was fine and back to order. This morning going to work same thing happened again, I don't know what is going on and what could be the cause?
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Coming to a stop, clutch pedal just lost all pressure. I can bring it back up, but even the slightest touch will send it to the floor again. I get the brake warning light on the dash. What could be causing this?
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My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
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Started losing pressure on my clutch pedal yesterday. When I would push in the clutch pedal it would not push back up to the reset position. It would only come back up half the way. Now today I have a steady ABS light and ASR light on. Checked for fault codes and found no trouble code. Checked brake fluid resevoir for leaks; still has plenty of fluid. Checked slave cylinder bleeder valve for leaks and looks dry. The only thing I think it could be is the clutch master cylinder. If I drive the car for a few minutes I am able to build pressure back up in the clutch, however the ABS light and ASR light still remain while driving. Turning the car off and back on again shuts off the light for a few minutes until I start driving, but the clutch pressure starts back low again.
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I have an Imola 20th and recently i have been having some problems with my clutch. The pedal goes from being soft to very hard when its close to disengaging. It also engages very heavily when I go to let it out. This only started happening recently when temperatures started to drop if this has any effect on a clutch. Also, I replaced a shift fork two months ago and was curious if there was possibly anything going on with seals around the slave cylinder.
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The transmission is a Six-speed MQ350 transmission in an MKIV 337 GTI.
I was driving last week and ran over a large snow chunk, heard it hit the underside of my car. A mile down the road my foot is resting on the clutch pedal at a stop light, and the clutch slowly went to the floor. It was still drivable, barely. The clutch came about an inch off the floorboard, but still caught. So i pull into the parking lot ahead of me, and was barely able to move the shifter left to right nor would the shifter go into gear. There were no fluids coming from under the car, nor could i see anything that looked wrong. I turned off, back on again. nothing. I then pulled the clutch pedal up from the floor and it went back to normal. Everything seems normal now, but the shifter seemed a little sticky yesterday from left to right.
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Recently my clutch started acting strange, the pedal felt softer and eventually after I pressed it in it stayed on the floor. After pumping it, everything went back to normal. Next day, still same thing, no pressure in the clutch pedal. I checked the brake fluid and it's full. There is also no sign of any leak. Took the car to the mechanic, he recommended changing the master cylinder. I changed it but still nothing. I tried bleeding the slave but every time I bleed it, it has air in it. So I'm stuck and don't know what should I do next. I think it might be my slave cylinder but I don't have a place or tools to do it myself. I'm pretty sure the entire tranny needs to be pulled out to remove the cylinder. I also read that most people change the clutch when they replace the slave.
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So your clutch pedal operates properly, the clutch engages with no issues, but this annoying squeak, snap, crackle, and pop noise keeps coming from the clutch pedal within the cabin.
Could it be your clutch master cylinder? CMC is not leaking in the engine bay and the driver footwell. Not the CMC.
Could it be your clutch switch that's used to control revs and cruise control? Removed it and clutch pedal still made noises when pressing and releasing the pedal. Not the CS.
Could it be the over-center spring that sits behind the clutch pedal assembly? How could it be? It's just a spring. Springs that compress in that orientation don't make snap, crackle, and pop noises.
What most people fail to realize is the noise is coming from the pedal assembly, but it's not the pedal structure or the pedal. It's the pivot point where it mates with the clutch pedal mounting bracket. At the pivot point are two bushings (one on each side of the pedal structure) that wears out over time creating these noises.
Please look up the part number for these bushings. They look like the following at this link but these are aftermarket upgrades for BMW's.[URL] ....
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Put in a brand new Clutch Masters stage 2 kit with flywheel and throwout bearing. Also installed ecs bleeder block. Got everything back together and bled the system. But the pedal is still sticking to the floor with no pedal feel at all.
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2004 jetta gli 1.8. Replaced oil pan, fixed a broken vacuum hose. Car doesn't have power, and has white exhaust smoke lots of it. Auto shop says my turbo is going out. [URL]....
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So I recently (within the last month) replaced my DV for a Forge 007 and my stock air box for an EVOMS v-flow. My cel came on after the DV switch and was throwing the P0420 code at me. Then I swapped the intake and it has been good but I felt like I was running a bit rich and pulled my codes and it now has P0030 in addition to P0420. Why this is? I have 88K miles. Spoke to a mechanic and he says he thinks it is my cat dying. I'm a bit confused since I have a turbo back exhaust.
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A few weeks ago, my battery died, got a new one, ran fine for a week. Then wanted to go to work a a few days ago, turn the key and heard nothing, took the starter out, got a new one and put it in (used-but I took it apart and it looked fine) Once I put that in was excited to have my car back, but same thing, not even a sound coming from the starter, doesn't even try. Thought it might be a fuse problem, checked everyone that might have to do with the engine...and they all looked fine.
Something with the relays perhaps? I haven't checked those yet. A ground issue? I'm so lost right now.
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So yesterday I finally got around to replacing the driver side door lock module in my GLI. I bought a OEM replacement. After taking 4 hours to install it yesterday I locked the doors and armed the alarm to see if replacing the module would stop the possessed car alarm. It didn't, at 1:30 am the alarm went off waking up me and my family. I've ran out of options of what it could be setting off the alarm and it's annoying having to unhook the battery every night.
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Today I went to start my car and let it warm up and everything worked fine and it started regularly but when I went to go drive the car and put the clutch in the pedal didn't return and I could not put it into gear, need to identify the problem.
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My wife was driving home and was exiting the freeway, downshifted and then no response from the clutch or gearbox. It would move left to right but not go into any gear with the car on. No real pressure in the clutch pedal either. With the car off you are able to find all the gears but when you start the car in gear with the clutch down it just jumps forward and dies. No smoke or burning smells either way and the pedal does come up by itself. Pushed the car into the driveway and its goin to the shop tomorrow morning.
With the search button so far: master/ slave cylinder, full clutch problem, air in brake/clutch lines, shifter linkage bracket
I don't think it's the slave cylinder as the pedal is NOT stuck to the floor, but I am not handy with cars, only motorcycles. First thing I checked was the linkage bracket, which seemed to be fine and as I stated, I was able to get in gear while car was off. Brake fluid was almost full but i know that doesnt rule out air in the lines.
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So I am pretty sure its my clutch that is the problem, here's what happens: When I go into second gear, it doesn't really grind.. but its tough to get it into gear and its only with second gear. sometimes it will go right in and others i have to double clutch. when i double clutch it goes in smooth every time. now I don't think it would be syncros because I am pretty sure if it was that it would do it every time I shift? It only does it while its cold or hasn't been drove in awhile.. but after i drive it around its fine so I am pretty sure its the clutch. Second thing, what is an upgraded clutch that is good for these 6 speed transmissions?
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