GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Check Engine Light Comes On (solid Orange) After Oil Change
Sep 1, 2009
So I go and get my oil change on Sunday at a local place. Oil change is done and later that evening my engine light comes on (solid orange). I call the local VW service and they say its nothing to worry about. "Maybe a little moisture got inside my gas tank." The service manager said to continue to drive it like nothing is wrong and it should go off. Here I am two days later and its still on. So should I be worried?
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I chipped my car with unitronics stage 2 3 weeks ago. 300 mile later the check engine came on. 42 DD down 3" to 2.5 cb no DV yet.
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So recently my check engine and abs light came on. I went to go get it checked out and it was the MAF censor. And here recently i noticed the airbag light came on. I replaced the MAF today, and the abs went away but check engine is still on due to the downpipe. And the airbag light is also on. Why it might have came on?
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So I was on my way to work and i noticed my check engine came on. i get out of work and its still there. i go to the movies to watch friday the 13th (ok movie, worth watching in my opinion)...still on. i drive to my friends crib after to chill...still on.
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So I just recently bought a 20th anniversary GTI with 80k miles on it that I'm really happy with. However, the guy who sold it to me, neglected to put gas in the car. I know that the car is suggested to take Premium, however I put Plus gasoline in it. About 20 minutes of driving later, my Check Engine Light came on, and I'm a bit worried as to what the reason for this might be. What the issue might be. I checked the gas cap numerous times, as I know that many people neglect to screw it on correctly, so I doubt that would be the problem.
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I seem to have a big loss of power. I just got my 337 last week and it was faster than expected with the GIAC chip. I drove down to mass in the rain last weekend and now it seems slow as hell. My question is does a bad coil pack cause a check engine light to go on? My car's check engine light is NOT on and I do have a boost gauge, and it seems to be boosting normal so I imagine it is not a boost leak. If it were misfiring I imagine I would really know it, but I've never had a misfire on a turbo car so I am not sure how bad it is affected.
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If you don't have a high flow cat on, will it throw ur check engine light on, saying its the rear 02 sensor....
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I have a 337 and the check engine light came on a couple months ago and i got the clutch safety switch replaced. but I forgot to take the light back off with my friends snap on tool. the car runs fine now but another friend with a TDI jetta said something about a master ecu reset? something like turn the key in the on position then hold the gas pedal for like 15 secs? I tried it but nothing happened. I just want the light to go away...
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I have a 2003 20th ann. GTI, it shut off on me on my way to work. It would turn on but only for a sec and turn back off. I turned it on and tried to move it over out the way of traffic and wouldnt move and turn back off. Got the check engine light checked and the codes P1007 which is coolant temp sensor and P0011 which is camshaft sensor. I replaced both and problem not solved car will start but wont go and turns back off, black smoke and a strong smell of gas comes out the exhaust.
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I have a 20th anni GTI. I was driving down the road about a week ago going about 50 in 5th gear. all of a sudden when i go to give it gas my car starts lagging and the check engine light starts flashing on and off. I used a check engine light tester to figure out the possible problems and found that cylinder 2 misfired.
Spark plugs could have been the problem so i replace them. Nothing changed. so then i thought it could be one of the coils so i switch 1 and 2 aroud to see if there was a misfire on 1 now. still cylinder 2 misfired. I am starting to thnk it may be my catalytic converter. There's a funny spell coming from my exhaust. Like fire crackers or rotten eggs maybe.
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So i start my car up drive about fifty feet and my temp gauge shoots all the way up, check engine light comes on and coolant light keeps going off......What is wrong with my car?
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When I bought my 2003 20th it was completely stock, except for a pos blow off valve had been installed, and get this, the diverter valve was left on, and just capped off. I installed a no name CAI, and the check engine light came on, i had it turned off and when i start the car, or rev the engine high at all, triggers again.
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So yesterday i was driving fine and all of the sudden the car started jolting like it was going to stall and the check engine light came on. I pulled over popped the hood to see if there was anything i could see and got back in and took off no problem and the light went off. I starting pushing it and accelerating it to see if it would come back on and it didnt. Today it started doing the same thing but this time the light stays on and every time i change gears it does that jolting like its going to stall.
Its a 2004 gli 6 speed gli 1.8t ....
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I have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.
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I have a 2010 gen 111 with nav system etc, the other day a orange check engine light came on, I took it to our Toyota Dealer and they said that I had mud and gravel up in the car, near the fuel intake area, and that the carbon capture canister/switch was damaged by the dirt and I need to get it replaced. I asked if I could simply not make the repair due to the fact that the electronics system would eventually not be able to read the H Carbon readings and the car would burn more fuel.
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My wife's Prius now has the check engine light, the orange triangle, and the car with the exclamation point lit up. It only has 96,000 miles and hasn't been in a wreck that we know of. I've read that it has to do with the HV ECU, but I don't know much more about it. Is there any chance it's just a loose cable or something simple? It doesn't seem like her car should already be having so many extensive problems all at once. We haven't had any in the past, except the car with the exclamation point came on for a few days and then went away on its own.
Codes: P1636, P3106, P3002, P3006. It's a 2002 Prius
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I have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
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So my car started to misfire when under boost so I had the car scanned the first time and came up with codes P0302, P0303, and P0304 which are all for misfires. I replaced the coil packs not even a year ago and the car drove fine as long as I wasn't in boost. My rpms would fluctuate a little bit but not much. I changed the spark plugs and it seemed to work a little bit but it would still misfire under higher boost. The one thing I noticed was my vacuum sits at around 15-17 in when it used to be around 19-20. I've cleaned and disconnected the MAF and the idle didn't improved. I also cleaned the MAP sensor and AIT and the CTS is new. I've done a pressure test and I found some leaks and fixed them but still no luck. Then yesterday my car started running really rough at idle and the cel would flash while driving then stay solid while stopped. Got the car scanned today and got codes P0300, P0301, P0303, and P0304.
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My wife was about to go into work today and when she started the Accent she said it started rough and revved up two or three times and the check engine light flashed 5 or 6 times. The light stayed on solid after that but there was no loss of power, smoke, low gas mileage or vibrating or any other symptoms after initial start up. I plan to take it to an auto parts store tomorrow (the car is at her work about 20 miles away) and get the code read. What I may be in for? I'm hoping its something simple. I told her to check the gas cap just in case.
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Check engine light was on solid - so I hooked up a code reader to the OBD2. Went ahead and cleared code -- hasn't come back yet, but wanted to see what it might be indicating if it comes back on.
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So a week ago i needed to change my mass air sensor due to every time it was raining it would almost stale and my check engine light was on. Now this week both my traction and engine lights are on always. When i start my car u. The morning it turns over but almost dies due to The rpms so low basically it's almost stalling if i give it gas usually it kicks it over then stays on no problem. ALSO if i reev high i hear a little grind or moan noise as well.
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