GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Check Engine Light Came On / Master ECU Reset?
Jun 3, 2010
I have a 337 and the check engine light came on a couple months ago and i got the clutch safety switch replaced. but I forgot to take the light back off with my friends snap on tool. the car runs fine now but another friend with a TDI jetta said something about a master ecu reset? something like turn the key in the on position then hold the gas pedal for like 15 secs? I tried it but nothing happened. I just want the light to go away...
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I chipped my car with unitronics stage 2 3 weeks ago. 300 mile later the check engine came on. 42 DD down 3" to 2.5 cb no DV yet.
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So recently my check engine and abs light came on. I went to go get it checked out and it was the MAF censor. And here recently i noticed the airbag light came on. I replaced the MAF today, and the abs went away but check engine is still on due to the downpipe. And the airbag light is also on. Why it might have came on?
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So I was on my way to work and i noticed my check engine came on. i get out of work and its still there. i go to the movies to watch friday the 13th (ok movie, worth watching in my opinion)...still on. i drive to my friends crib after to chill...still on.
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So I just recently bought a 20th anniversary GTI with 80k miles on it that I'm really happy with. However, the guy who sold it to me, neglected to put gas in the car. I know that the car is suggested to take Premium, however I put Plus gasoline in it. About 20 minutes of driving later, my Check Engine Light came on, and I'm a bit worried as to what the reason for this might be. What the issue might be. I checked the gas cap numerous times, as I know that many people neglect to screw it on correctly, so I doubt that would be the problem.
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I seem to have a big loss of power. I just got my 337 last week and it was faster than expected with the GIAC chip. I drove down to mass in the rain last weekend and now it seems slow as hell. My question is does a bad coil pack cause a check engine light to go on? My car's check engine light is NOT on and I do have a boost gauge, and it seems to be boosting normal so I imagine it is not a boost leak. If it were misfiring I imagine I would really know it, but I've never had a misfire on a turbo car so I am not sure how bad it is affected.
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If you don't have a high flow cat on, will it throw ur check engine light on, saying its the rear 02 sensor....
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I have a 2003 20th ann. GTI, it shut off on me on my way to work. It would turn on but only for a sec and turn back off. I turned it on and tried to move it over out the way of traffic and wouldnt move and turn back off. Got the check engine light checked and the codes P1007 which is coolant temp sensor and P0011 which is camshaft sensor. I replaced both and problem not solved car will start but wont go and turns back off, black smoke and a strong smell of gas comes out the exhaust.
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I have a 20th anni GTI. I was driving down the road about a week ago going about 50 in 5th gear. all of a sudden when i go to give it gas my car starts lagging and the check engine light starts flashing on and off. I used a check engine light tester to figure out the possible problems and found that cylinder 2 misfired.
Spark plugs could have been the problem so i replace them. Nothing changed. so then i thought it could be one of the coils so i switch 1 and 2 aroud to see if there was a misfire on 1 now. still cylinder 2 misfired. I am starting to thnk it may be my catalytic converter. There's a funny spell coming from my exhaust. Like fire crackers or rotten eggs maybe.
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So i start my car up drive about fifty feet and my temp gauge shoots all the way up, check engine light comes on and coolant light keeps going off......What is wrong with my car?
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So I go and get my oil change on Sunday at a local place. Oil change is done and later that evening my engine light comes on (solid orange). I call the local VW service and they say its nothing to worry about. "Maybe a little moisture got inside my gas tank." The service manager said to continue to drive it like nothing is wrong and it should go off. Here I am two days later and its still on. So should I be worried?
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When I bought my 2003 20th it was completely stock, except for a pos blow off valve had been installed, and get this, the diverter valve was left on, and just capped off. I installed a no name CAI, and the check engine light came on, i had it turned off and when i start the car, or rev the engine high at all, triggers again.
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So yesterday i was driving fine and all of the sudden the car started jolting like it was going to stall and the check engine light came on. I pulled over popped the hood to see if there was anything i could see and got back in and took off no problem and the light went off. I starting pushing it and accelerating it to see if it would come back on and it didnt. Today it started doing the same thing but this time the light stays on and every time i change gears it does that jolting like its going to stall.
Its a 2004 gli 6 speed gli 1.8t ....
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I have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.
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So a week ago i needed to change my mass air sensor due to every time it was raining it would almost stale and my check engine light was on. Now this week both my traction and engine lights are on always. When i start my car u. The morning it turns over but almost dies due to The rpms so low basically it's almost stalling if i give it gas usually it kicks it over then stays on no problem. ALSO if i reev high i hear a little grind or moan noise as well.
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Stop check coolant light came on dash tonight. Scanned the car no code. Did a search pointed towards coolant temp sensor. Car had it replaced by vw estimate of 30,000 miles ago. I tried to see if its green top sensor appears the very bottom ring is green but top is black maybe vw's is different than ecs? Planning to do water pump, belt kit from ecs anything else i should be looking at?
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My wife and I own a 2006 Toyota Prius that we bought used 2 years ago. a couple of days ago, the master warning light (red triangle exclamation point) and check engine light came on. I took it into the dealer and of course, our hybrid battery was dead - battery and a new ECU required.
Our car is at 99,000 and 32 days out of warranty. Went down the road to atlanta hybrid repair. they were incredibly nice, and said that my computer was fine, but the battery would need to be replaced.
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Car: 03 20th with 6spd 02m trans.
Problem: Go out in the morning esp when really cold, and the clutch pedal drops to the floor. No resistance at all on it as if it's no connected to anything. I pull it back up and pedal starts to build pressure.
I thought slave cylinder searching on here shows a high probability of that being the issue. But the strange thing is the pedal feels like it's sticking at the midway point. Once pressure is built up to normal pedal pressure, if I opush it down and slide my foot off it, it will literally rise fast and the feels like it catches on something and pops to the normal top position.
So my thought here is that the Master cylinder is sticking somewhere inside and causing the pedal to hang up. The weird part though is that once the car is warmed up the problem starts to diminish. But if I drive long enough on the highway (not shifting gears) the clutch seems to start losing pressure all over again.
I have also had to top off the brake fluid reservoir about 3 times in 2 months. What is the root cause here?
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I have multiple O2 codes on my '02 gti. It is giving me a check engine lights as well as the traction control light on. I received 6 codes all but one of them had to do with the O2 sensor and a short except for one that came in as the MAF. Both O2 sensors have been replaced and the codes still won't clear. I bought it in this condition, it runs really well so i wasn't to concerned about it, but the lights are starting to get annoying.
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Okay, this all started a couple weeks ago when i first heard a weird knocking noise about 10 minutes after I left my house. I pulled the car over and it seemed to be coming from the right rear of the car. I started to turn around when it stopped. Over the next few days I notice the longer I let it warm up the sooner I hear the noise. I park in the garage and have read different things on the temp changing etc. About a week ago my check gas cap light went on shortly after I heard the knocking noise.
I pulled over to check if it was tightened and when i restarted it the light was off.... I didn't think much about it but this weekend it went on again, after I heard the noise and I pulled over to check it, tightened it and started. This time it did not go off. After letting the car sit for a bit and restarting it finally went away. Then again this morning 7/2 after hearing the noise the gas cap light goes off again...same thing as the last. Light will not go off... the car is parked right now and hopefully the light is off when I go back to turn it on.
Received error code P0445 now and gas cap light no longer on, check engine light now comes on. I had my bf locate the fuel pump and he ran it and the noise seems to come from there...(TY Savko@HSTuning). When he moved it the check engine light went off for about 15 minutes but eventually came back on. I read to replace gas cap first with a P0445 error so I ordered a new Gas Cap and if that doesn't work I guess the fuel pump will be next?
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I just installed a eurojet race FMIC (bumper fitting was horrible but thats another story) and now my outside temperature and mpg readings are all off on the cluster computer. The temperature actually just rises when i start driving and the mpg doesnt change at all? Should I just disconnect the battery so it resets? ]
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