GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Car Takes 2 Or 3 Times To Start From Being Cold
Oct 10, 2012
Revo stage 2 --1.8t ... For the past few days I have tried to figure this issue out I am having with my 337. The car takes 2 or 3 times to start from being cold. Once its started it has no issue it drives awesome, pulls hard no codes when vag com'd. Can start it up anytime with ease for the rest of the day. Tried doing to solve:
-I have pretty new coilpacks---FSI- they are ok
-Spark plugs are 3 months old --checked those
-Checked Battery and its all normal and no issue
-Cleaned the throttle body = No change
-Installed new CTS yesturday (green) < no change
-Cleaned the MaF = NO change in start up but car runs way smoother
-Put in new Filter= No major change
-Did the Crank sensor under a month ago (Bosch)
I have a few more things on my list to check :
1. Fuel pump relay
2. Fuel Pressure Reg
3. ECU relay/ check immobilizer
4. Fuel Pump
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So I just recently got a 2005 GLI and I have been taking care of all the maintenance first before I start modding it. But there is one thing that I can't seem to figure out and I have searched but can't find this exact problem anywhere. My problem is I will have to turn the key several times before it starts, it does turn over but will not start until about the 4th or 5th attempt. This will happen maybe once a day but sometimes it will be fine all day long. Also the ESP light comes on once the car starts but doesn't come on if the car starts normally. Now I have seen people saying ABS/speed sensor might be bad if the ESP light comes on but mine isn't always on. Just when I have trouble starting it and then it goes off once I turn the car off and back on.
For those that don't feel like reading:
- Car sometimes (once in a day or two) turns over 4,5 times before it starts
- ESP light comes on when it has trouble starting
And of course, here is a picture of the new-to-me ride .....
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There wasn't even a crank. Held the ignition for a couple of seconds and it starts. The next day I had the battery and the alternator checked, they were both good. Another couple days passed and it did not want to start again. Got it scanned no codes come up. I changed the ignition switch and still I have the same problem with no crank.
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I get EPC and ASR upon cold start from time to time. Usually EPC goes away if I restart in a couple of minutes. ASR goes away after a while and restart.
So after car warms up and restarted, everything seems fine.
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Have a little oil on the outer part of the turbo and its making a raspy noise when my turbo is spoiled not sure whats going on the car pulls just as hard and boost levels are normal i had a check engine light on for a few days right after this started code was for p0411 dont think its related cause i know my secondary air pump whistles at cold start so im assuming that the code is for that and not related to the turbo.
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Recently purchased a 2005 Jetta GLI with 31,xxx miles on it. It is my second 1.8T. My first was very reliable, with never any issues even after the 100k mile mark and is the reason I didn't hesitate to buy another one. That, and the Recaro Edition GLI has always been one of my favorite cars.
So I've had it for about a month now and I've noticed on occasion a problem with cold starting. One weekend it sat for almost two days because we used our other car, and then again this morning it was particularly chilly here in Pittsburgh, about 35degrees F and it took me two starts to get it going.
I always turn the key to 'on' for a few seconds and let the fuel pressurize and all the indicators light up. It doesn't appear to be the battery as it turns over strong, though I have not yet confirmed this is a Voltage reading. Once it kicks over, it seems to be choking or sputtering, unable to get up to idle. The second time, it does it again but gets past it and all is well...
I'm checking records now to see if the 30k mile service was completed. perhaps a tune up and new plugs would work?
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just noticed when i cold start my car the turbo makes a whistle noise until it warms up and when i drive hard when its spoiled it makes that whistle again......
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Okay vortex here's what's happening in my 20th. About a month or so ago a CMP sensor went out, so I replaced that with a OEM sensor, on my way home my car started to misfire. So I took it easy the rest of the way home. The next day I started my car up and there were no misfires, drove to school, still no misfires but the check engine light was still on from the night before, after school on my way to get the codes ran it started to misfire again but then it stopped a few min into the drive.
Ever since then it has misfired but not all the time but maybe 1- 2 times a day then it would stop misfiring after a few min/seconds. My and my friend did the coil pack test and all the coil packs were good, yesterday (10/14/10) I replaced my plugs with NGK BKR7E plugs gapped at .028, my car is chipped with unitronic stage 2 tunning and it still misfired. I am going to clear all the codes and restet my ECU, but can you till do that with a unitronic ecu?
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Sometimes my battery light will come on. It started happening about a few weeks ago. At the time i was on the parkway so i couldn't pull over and it was flashing a few times then stopped. It started doing it more often, now it did it around town so i would slow down and i could hear the belt squealing. It just happened again and this time my car sorta lost power but only for a second. Now my question is, how would i check if its
a) alternator,
b) the belt or
c) the tensioner?
Or, I won't know til i start messing with it?
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I got a quick question about limp mode. I know this has prolly been covered a few times but I couldn't find anything too similar. Well, to start out my car cannot boost past 3lbs. If i turn the car off and take the terminals off the battery and let it reset for a while, it goes back to normal for a while. After a few times driving it, limp mode comes back on.
The first time this happened, the check engine light came on also. But once I reset the battery it turned off and went back to normal. But it never stays away for good, limp mode always ends up coming back...
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My 2002 Honda CRV has had occasional problems starting over the years i.e. takes 2 times to start engine. But lately it is struggling more to start i.e., engine turns over but you can hear it struggling to start i.e. sounds like dead battery but in fact battery is brand new. Now it can take 3 turns to start and this morning it took 5 tries. The problem is no mechanic can find out what is wrong i.e. starter, fuel line, electrical or what? because it always starts when in the shop. I have even taken it to the Honda dealer and they could not find the problem. This is a random problem but seems to be getting worse and happening more often. I am worried I will be stuck somewhere when the car does not start AT ALL one day.
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
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The A/C hasn't been working for a month now, won't blow cold air. Took it to the shop and they put 1.5 pounds of freon in it. But it still won't blow cold. I'm taking a 1200 mile trip in it soon and the shop isn't an option. There's no leak as of now. What to do?
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Got some issues going from first to second when the car is cold. Kinda feels like it grinds not sure if it is or not. When it warms up seems ok. Changed the fluid, smoother but kinda worries me.
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Have 66,000 on the clock. AC has blown cold since i have had the car, and yesterday quits blowing cold, summer is right around the corner.
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so another winter has come to me in michigan and i had to take off my nice performance tires and put on the winter steelies. but as i come to now with them on, my ESp light has come on, on my dash and wont turn off even if i reset the car. i havent checked the VAGCOM yet cause that laptop is at my parents. the tires are the same i used last year and didnt have this happen either. any thoughts on this and what could be wrong? haveing no traction control in the winter is not cool to have in my book.
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Having issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
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The colder it gets the harder it takes to start my 2000 Ford Explorer. Have read that it's the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
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It all started after it being cold outside it's hard to shift into second gear when i first start up the car, and then after a couple shifts like that i get a notchy shift. after a while of driving it all disappears.
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Here's my issue: as it gets colder out, I ride with the windows up, so all the little squeaks and creaks get that much more noticeable.
Ones in particular that drive me nuts are the squeaks that originate from the rear deck area (almost as if they are coming from the rear upper shock mounts between the C-pillars - I think this is a Jetta-only issue). I had a c-pillar bar in the past and it seemed... but the bar is a tad unsightly, and it rendered my rear seat belts useless.
Need finding and eliminating these noises in the back? I'd rather not run one of those bars again if at all possible.
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20th with 120,000 miles. Ok here's my problem, get in my car in the morning after a coldish night, (around freezing) clutch pedal goes almost to the floor with no resistance, i pump it a say 5 or 6 times and it gets stiffer but not 100% i drive it for 10 or 15 min and it warms up and the clutch gets back to normal stiffness. I'm thinking its the master or slave cylinder going bad or maybe it just needs to be bled and before i go and buy both of them and replace them, just wanted some opinions. Also its not leaking fluid at all and the reservoir is full.
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