GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Car Keeps Shutting Off After Replacing A Manifold Hose
Feb 1, 2012
I'm new to VW but I just replaced a manifold hose and now my car keeps shutting off but if I let it sit for like 5 min. It starts right up. The hose that came on it was plastic n I switched it to a rubber one from advanced.
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As you can clearly see the hose just kinda ripped. Looks like an oil return line? What would cause this. I check it out once my CEL popped up. still under warranty but I'd have to swap DV's first.
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Recently bought a black 20th for my girlfriend for Christmas. Any ways, so I floored it from a dig, and the ASR light kept coming on during acceleration and shutting off between shifts, just wondering what the situation is.
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How hard it is to install a turbo manifold??
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I have an '02 337 GTI, Chipped but the previous owner don't know what chip is installed
Anyways, lately if I'm just cruising around the city in 5th, or on the highway, the engine will shut off completely. Electrical still on, battery light and all that jazz does not come on unless the RPMs go all the way down, then I have to actually start the car up again. Takes alot longer to crank afterwards.
Sometimes I will be driving and it happens, but I keep my foot down on the throttle, and just wait and engine will kick back in hard as hell!
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Just received my discount GHL exhaust. and Discount it is. To boot some friggen how the manifold is now cracked? and I wonder if the warranty will cover the broken manifold?
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I recently bought a 20th and instead of the turbo going SWOOSH it sounds like the gate is opening and shutting rapidly as the pressure is exhausted. What is the cause?
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I just replaced the turbo to manifold gasket and bolts but the but bolt closest to the engine keeps backing out.. i cnt seem to find a tool that can tighten all the way..
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its cracked and its leaking i was tld its 210 dollars to replace it... what is the part number for this??? or is this not that bad of a deal?
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I looked through the MKIV DIY stuff but didn't see one. My serp belt is in need of replacing soon. Seeing some cracking on it for sure. According to records from the PO it was bought as part of the timing belt kit at the end of '09 so I imagine it was changed then...just didn't think it would be so cracked so fast!
Anyway, looking to replace it in the coming weeks. If I could be pointed in the right direction that would be awesome. I do have a Bentley, but I find how-to's on here to often be better. But if I need to just follow the Bentley, I can do that too.
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Two weeks ago had to replace my ECU due to failing. Got a new one, reflashed my Uni software and the only code left after the ECU was replaced was the Air Intake Temp Sensor. That was 12 days ago. Today, get home. Car was running smooth all day. No issues. Go out and start the car and my idle is at 1300. (Normally 750) I have zero throttle response. I've unhooked the battery twice to do a reset, unplugged the throttle body sensor and plugged back in, still got nothing.
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I just got my 337 a few days ago and I got out today after a short drive and smelled coolant. Immediately thought the worst but luckily I found this hose to be leaking. What hose this is its on the left side just about the throttle.
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Most of the info I could find recommended replacing the entire glove box, and removing the center console to do so. I found a replacement door on ECS tuning's website, but I can't find a DIY on replacing the door/lid only. Any way out on replacing the door only, are the same steps required/removing the center console and taking the entire box out, or can the ECS tuning lid be fitted without as much disassembly?
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I replace my timing belt and water pump and my engine is now over heating. I notice it's only over heats when the ac is running and the engine is idling. When I start to drive the engine temp goes down.
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The gas pump/hose keeps shutting off when I fill my tank. The problem is progressively getting worse. No Codes. Truck runs fine. I looked at the filler neck and filler hoses. They appear to be original but no obvious signs of an issue...
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If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
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On the manifold there is a metal/steel pipe that the heater hose hooks to. That pipe is leaking anitifreeze. It has a small hole in it. Is this pipe replaceable or is it part of the manifold.
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I 'm looking to replace my manifold studs in my 2005 V10. Looking to replace with bolts. Would like someone who has done this to chime in with what they have had success using for bolts. Size length grade etc.
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I have an 07 Camry with a hard to turn steering wheel. I had to replace the high pressure hose from the rack due to a leak. After that I basically bled the system as one would do under normal circumstances. With the cars front wheels off the ground I turned the wheel hard left and right. The wheel did give a bit but not to the point of perfection. After many turns I put the vehicle on the ground and repeated the process. The fluid no longer leaked but the stiffness was still there.
The hose was replaced at 110,000 miles. It's currently at 112,000 miles
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I want a 20th AE & have seen pics that say ESP on a button next to the hazard & others say ASR. I know that their was one option for the car: ESP. So what's ASR? Is one better than the other? Is it the same? I've heard that the ESP sucks for autocross. Is this true?
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I was driving at about 60mph in 4th gear and knocked it into 2nd and the rpm's hit the max and the car shut off and I have not been able to get it started. I have compression, fuel, and spark . I've checked oil and don't have any coolant in and nor did I have any oil in my coolant. When I try to start it it try's to start but won't turn over so .
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