I have a 2004 GLI, with 105,000 miles
I have a problem, I think it's a leak in the turbo, when I drive at 45 or 50 mile four-speed when I give some gas to the bottom to take power, I feel that the car starts to shake and feels like coughed at the same time and the Check Engine starts to blinking.
I change the timing belt, valves, and ignition coils.
So far its only happened twice in the past to days, and its only happened in 1st gear. when i give it gas to go in 1st gear the EPC light will come on and it sounds like a miss fire or something. then the car basically shuts down.
View 24 RepliesOk my car is tripping... been like this for a while, just never REALLY bugged me until lately... Example... I am at a light put it in first, have my foot on the gas... I slowly give it some gas.. rmps start to rise. NOW! without adding any pressure to gas, it kinda jolts or studers... happens for like a split second, and than the rpms continue top raise and i go into second... So now i just rev a bit and go quickly into second.
View 14 RepliesSo basically a couple months ago I picked up a 03 20th and GTI, I love the thing to pieces, recently I've got into drive it and I can watch my temp gauge steadily climb to 90 and stop. (before I go any further, I haven't gotten any overheat warnings or anything like that, I've just noticed my car is really hot all the time and the temp gauge goes to 90 within a minute or so of driving but doesn't go over). heat works fine, I've gone in the engine and tested a few things, tested the fans by jumping the connections, my large fan is dead but the small works fine. to my understanding, the large fan isn't used much unless it's really hot anyway. so I removed it and continued trying to find my problem, I felt the rad after letting the car run for a bit, the top half was hot but the bottom half was cool, took the hoses off and flushed my rad thinking maybe something was clogging it, water ran through fine, so I put it back together, put new coolant and tried again. same thing. so I took it for a rip and came back, obviously, the top hose and the rad were hot, but the bottom one was kinda warm. I looked for answers online but I can't seem to find anything like what I'm dealing with. the water pump seems to be working fine, I'm not sure how much flow is supposed to be coming through the Small hose at the top of the reservoir, But I checked it and it has a steady stream coming out of it. I've worked all the air out of the lines as well. The car isn't overheating and doesn't really pass the 90 mark, fans almost never come on but the small one kicks into low when I turn the AC on. which as far as I'm aware is what's supposed to happen.
The car feels like its running hot, checked everything I can think of. rad is hot on the top half and cools at the bottom, coolant has a steady flow back to the reservoir. no actual overheat warnings, I'm just wondering if these cars run hot normally or if I should be concerned.
Okay so yesterday I got my turbo replaced! I drove it around town and some back rounds playing with the car and testing everything out and seemed completely fine. This morning i did the same and worked completely fine. THEN i go get a car wash. Right after the car wash my car was running rough for couple minutes and basically stalled out when i hit the gas. After revving it for awhile it was running smooth like normal. I brought it on the highway and once i hit about 5000 RPMS it seems to just lose power and not want to go anymore like the turbo is gone! But other then that the car runs and drives fine now! I have a 20th and its stage 2 if that makes a difference!
View 1 RepliesHere is what happened: I was accelerating one colder morning while driving to work when the power just dropped. Then engine continued to run, but I had no power or acceleration over 3000 rpm. Since that time, that is how the car drives. It starts, runs, etc... but has no power (like rev limiter or something) over 3000 rpm. The turbo spools up fine. I do know my 02 sensors are old. The engine has 184k on it... not bad. Is this a head gasket situation?
View 3 RepliesMy 337 after 6000 rpm it bogs out and loses power, What it might be...
View 10 RepliesSo over the past couple months when driving on the highway I would notice that sometimes my car would lose all power and slowly coast to a stop, but then the power comes back on and I'm off after a few seconds. It happened again today and I notice when I do hit the gas when it decides not to accelerate my boost gauge shows that there is vacuum building up in the engine. It just doesn't make sense to me. Would my car be getting thrown into a limp mode? Or is it something to do with fueling?
View 4 RepliesI have had this happen three times in the last two months. I was not hard accelerating, just cruising on the fwy at about 70mph in sixth all three times. Then for no reason, my rpms drop, no check eng light, no power for about 10secs and then, back to normal. I have had the codes checked twice, nothing recorded...
2004.5 gli .... 65k
So driving home from the gym and all of a sudden my car dies. I pull over and the EPC light is on, restart the car, all is well. However it feels like there's a rev limiter or something, zero power after 3000ish rpms. Same drive home, car dies again. Same issue EPC light..
04 BMP GLI
85k
uni stage 2 chip
k04 turbo
Well I parked my car yesterday evening and its fine. Well this morning I go out and try to go to work and my keyless entry doesn't work. So I unlock the door manually and as soon as I open the door I hear this clicking soon almost sounds like the blinker but faster and more erratically. All cabin lights are flickering and the car has no power the battery is dead. What could cause this? Is something shorting out, Could my aftermarket radio stayed on and drained the battery? Maybe it was clicking because the cabin lights were trying to come on but didn't have enough juice. Well I am charging it now and I am gonna see what happens.
View 2 RepliesEvery time I stop fairly quickly my battery light comes on and I loose all power. Lights, power steering, everything goes... Is this a connection problem? Its not the battery since I have to turn my car off and start it again for it to be alright.. What's going on?
View 14 RepliesThis morning I go to work with no problems. Then at lunch I go to my car and get some things with no problem. Then of course it starts pouring down rain just before its time for me to leave to go home and the car is dead. Not just a little dead but completely. It doesnt even have enough power to unlock the doors or display anything on the dash. I checked the normal things in the pouring rain hoping to find a quick fix but it was like a small hurricane. The only thing I found was a small amount of corrosion on the positive terminal. The battery is less than six months old and yes I did check to make sure the lights were off. If it ever stops raining I'm going to go see if it will jump. I've had way to many problems with this car but I've never seen it dead like if the battery was completely disconnected.
View 1 RepliesI don't know whats wrong, last night i was driving and all of a sudden the car started to feel like it had a flat tire. The music was loud so i was sure...i pulled over and sudden my cel starts flashing. I turned the car off looked under the hood and couldn't see much (it was dark) i turned it back on and the same thing, when i accelerate there is a loud noise that seems to come from under my seat as well as a sort of stutter/putting like right before your stall out in a manual car.
View 1 RepliesI have a 337 running the ATP gt2x kit with revo stg3 and external fuel w/550cc injectors. The car has power in the first three gears until 4200 RPM then it acts like it backfires and then looses all power, but it will drive and boost normal in 4th,5th, and 6th gear. I have basic boost settings running on the revo and cant figure out what the problem is.
View 7 RepliesI have a 03 20th ae gti with about 84k just replaced the coil packs. driving on the freeway then power just goes away, press on gas and nothing. limp it off the freeway. Then it starts to die at idle and hardly turns over. car is pretty much stock. new clutch at 75k.
View 8 RepliesMark IV GTI. Neuspeed intake, chip, exhaust. The situation is...
When driving enthusiastically, harder, and sportingly, the car runs beautifully!
When driving normally, such as highway cruise or lower speeds with a consistent throttle input, the power will cut-out. Then the max boost pressure will be approximately 3 psi until the key is cycled. Then normal chipped operation resumes. Since it is difficult to drive hard all the time, this circumstance comes up often.
There is a new N75 recently installed. The situation does NOT set off the check engine light.
I have noticed according to the boost gauge readings, it tends to happen between 10 inHg to 0 psi. Above or below that, don't recall it happening.
So yesterday I took out the monsoon head unit and replaced it with a kenwood kdc-348u single din, but once the wiring harness is plugged into the stereo all my power windows and everything stops working. What could be the problem, wrong wiring harness?
View 2 RepliesI am getting the following trouble codes:
P0342 cam position sensor A bank 1 Ckt Low Input
P0102 MAF or VAF A Ckt Low Input
The accessory belt moves when I try to start it, but my timing belt stays still, but is kind of tight/very little slack.
It died on the highway, was in gear and it just lost power.
So while I was in gear i felt a thunk and suddenly the car had no driving power in any of the gears including reverse. Pulled over popped the hood and checked my linkage. Everything was still connected as far as i could tell. Had my buddy watch the linkage while i shifted through the gears, everything checked out normal. While in gear the car still rolls so obviously something internally isn't jivin. Haven't gotten under it yet, doubt that will tell me anything. 130k miles had her for less than a year haven't gotten around to picking up a bentleys yet. I'll grab one tomorrow since nothings open today.
View 5 RepliesAbout three nights ago I had a complete power loss on the highway and the car began to bog down alot under throttle (and surge at points as well although with no boost). It also idled very rough/erratically. When I unplugged the MAF it cleared up right away; Idle was smooth and it ran without hiccup but in safe/limp mode so very tame (again, without boost really, gauge shows it stays in Vacuum and never passes "0" or goes into boost).
I scanned it this evening and got 2 misfire codes and a MAF code, along with a code related to traction control which I noticed had activated as a result of this and could not be turned on (by activated, I mean the light came on, disengaging T/C). These things make me think it is MAF related, especially because I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I do not think that is what it could be in relation to the misfire codes (which I think may be old and needed to be cleared).
Fast forward to last night: I can pretty confidently say my MAF is not the problem and I think I saved an unnecessary expenditure. I was able to meet a friend with a 337 as well and his MAF did not change my car at all and my MAF ran fine in his car so I think my problems are something else. Although with the MAF plugged in my car runs very poor and unplugged it clears up and just runs "limp" (no boost and slow but stable) from what I tested this evening the MAF unit seems to not be the issue.
I think there must be a vacuum leak of some sort between the MAF and the engine which allows more air in than the MAF signals when plugged in which causes the issue. Also, I know a common thing to think is "coilpacks" but I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I would imagine that would eliminate those from being the failure they tend to normally be. Agreed ??