GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Can Wrong Density Oil Cause Misfire And Bad Starts?
Sep 11, 2012
I have a 2004 Jetta gli 1.8turbo my car has 97,000 miles and the last oil change i did was with 0w-40 oil, can this cause my check engline light to come on and 2 cylinder misfires? should i change oil to 5w- or 10w- asap?
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I finally got my 20th running a couple weeks ago but i already had some issues. first i would like to know if not having a stereo or having the wrong harness would cause my speed sensor or speedometer to fail, plus my fuel gauge to go up and down.
somebody told me that my stock stereo controls many stuff.
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Whenever I go over about 50 MPH it starts shaking like the dickens. We have a lot of snow around so I'm thinking i just have messed up alignment from hitting snow chunks but who knows. [URL] ....
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So my Gti 337 it starts but it turns right back off starts and turns right back off people are telling me it's the fuel pump checked it it's not that people are saying its my ECM.
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I have trouble starting my GLI sometimes..its usually 1 out of 10 times. It will keep cranking and after a few tries it finally starts if i hit the gas a little bit too...
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I bought my gti about a month ago and every time I warm it up in the morning or any time it has been sitting over a long period of time the rpms sit at about 1300 until about a minute and it goes under 1k ... I am not to familiar with this issue.
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So i have a 2004.5 gli 6spd that had two of the coils go bad and had a serious misfire with engine code and all car didnt want to even move. So i got this fixed made it about a mile down the road and it had a cylinder 3 misfire took it back had third coil replaced and all new plugs put it. Got the car back it ran fine until i hit about 4000 rpm under heavy boost it misfires but no flashing cel like before and the car still runs but cold start warmed up it misfires under boost
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So i just got back into town after not driving her for about a week, started her up(barely), and saw engine light. While on the engine putters and sounds bad. The exhaust smells like gas. I have done no Mods except for APR stage one and a K & N air filter. Is it misfiring? Is my software bad?
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I changed my sparkplugs and coil packs last month. Was getting CEL light but it would go away after a while. I figured out that I had gapped my spark plugs way to small (almost touching) so I took them out two nights ago and regapped/ reseated them.
My car was running fine yesterday, but today when I started my car up, the engine was shaking a lot for about 10 seconds and the CEL was blinking. After 10 seconds the shaking and CEL went away...
It drove fine. I'm just wondering what could be throwing these CEL's and causing the shaking? Plugs are gapped to 0.32
Also, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced almost two weeks ago now. Any chance that could be lending to the problem?
My guess is that one or more cylinders are screwy. I'd rather not bring it into the vw mechanic since I'm tight on cash.
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I just recently put in an APR chip on my o4 gli from one of their dealers, a day or two later I noticed when I try to accelerate fast my check engine light comes on and the car starts pulling back. That was almost a week ago, today I went back to the same place to get a short shifter, I told them the problem while I was there and they said it was my coil packages. I replaced all 4 and im still having the same problem...
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I have a 03 20th ae gti with about 84k just replaced the coil packs. driving on the freeway then power just goes away, press on gas and nothing. limp it off the freeway. Then it starts to die at idle and hardly turns over. car is pretty much stock. new clutch at 75k.
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Driving the other night I ran drove over a pot hole going about forty pulled up to the stop light and my car starts to make funny noises, barley got the car moving again but managed to get home. I hooked my computer up to it and it says misfire at cylinder 2 and 4.
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I am having this failure in my engine that is making me crazy while I am driving. Yesterday i took my car to a shop to see what was it. my MAF was gone ( I replaced it ) and the failure still going on. The mechanic connected his computer in my car and we went for a ride. HE told me cylinder 1 misfire.
This is what i did.
-change spark-plugs position (failure still)
-change coilpack (failure still)
What can i do ?
-clean injectors
-check for any carbon in valves
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So I have a 2004 Jetta gli 1.8turbo and my CEL came on last night from normal driving, after it came on it still drives the same. I had it scanned for codes and got the p0303 cylinder #3 misfire. wondering what could be the solution for this? I dont think its the coil pack because I had them changed at the dealer from the recall about 2 months ago (anyway to check?) Also I have 97,000 miles on my car and my last oil change I used 0w-40 oil. I know this is probably not the best oil to use at this mileage but I had an extra 5 quarts of them laying around so I decided to use it.
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Ive been having two issues with my GLI lately, last week while driving on the parkway my car just randomly lost acceleration, no lights came on but the gas peddle was unresponsive. I was able to restart it while coasting and thought nothing of it. Then it kept doing it. It was raining that night but ive never had an issue before. Other times it dies it is sunny out. The second issue is sometimes when I hit over 10lbs of boost the car will start to misfire and run like crap. No CEL's come on the dash but if we scan it with VAGCOM it says theres misfires happening, obviously. Already did a smoke test and there are no vacuum leaks.
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I have a 20th anni GTI. I was driving down the road about a week ago going about 50 in 5th gear. all of a sudden when i go to give it gas my car starts lagging and the check engine light starts flashing on and off. I used a check engine light tester to figure out the possible problems and found that cylinder 2 misfired.
Spark plugs could have been the problem so i replace them. Nothing changed. so then i thought it could be one of the coils so i switch 1 and 2 aroud to see if there was a misfire on 1 now. still cylinder 2 misfired. I am starting to thnk it may be my catalytic converter. There's a funny spell coming from my exhaust. Like fire crackers or rotten eggs maybe.
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Setup: WRD Street Advantage Coilover kit. Installed and sit at 24.75" all around. 034 Density mounts and new bearings. 19,xxx mi.
7 weeks ago I installed WRD Street Advantage coils. The install went great, no problems. Drove a week or so and decided to replace the strut mounts with 034's density strut mounts and new bearing to get rid of the creaking sound at low speed. Ordered them and put them on this weekend. After driving it I realized the creaking of the old weaker strut mount was gone. However, I inherited a rough clunking or knocking sound (as if something is loose and moving around), which seems to be coming from my passenger side. This happens at all speeds and not specific to turning the wheel. I unistalled/reinstalled everything in the front 4 times and went through everything with a fine tooth comb, but can't find anything loose. All bolts are torqued to spec.
I even removed the sway bar end links and drove it, still there. So it's not the end links. I also tried using the OEM endlinks which are longer than the ones from WRD to increase the space between the axle and the sway bar, possibly thinking it was hitting and causing the noise. No luck, still there. The only thing I noticed is that with the car on jack stands the strut mount is tight to the body but I still have slight play in the spring and it's perch. Is that normal? I'm assuming under load it's tight again. So the only variable in my situation is the new Density Mounts and bearing, can these cause heightened noises due to the increased heardness of the mounts?
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I want a 20th AE & have seen pics that say ESP on a button next to the hazard & others say ASR. I know that their was one option for the car: ESP. So what's ASR? Is one better than the other? Is it the same? I've heard that the ESP sucks for autocross. Is this true?
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I was driving at about 60mph in 4th gear and knocked it into 2nd and the rpm's hit the max and the car shut off and I have not been able to get it started. I have compression, fuel, and spark . I've checked oil and don't have any coolant in and nor did I have any oil in my coolant. When I try to start it it try's to start but won't turn over so .
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Driving home from work, I was about 5 minutes from home, got to a light only to not be able to go into 1st. I popped it into 2nd and drove home like that pretty much. Car will let me get into reverse and all other gears.
I can put the shifter towards first but it doesn't fully go in and when I gave it gas it would let me start to creep and then grind a little and pop out.
Heres a pic for your click .....
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I was searching but I can't find any DYI's on turning your Daytime Running Lights off on our cars. I don't feel like buying a euro switch right now. How to do this or has done this to their vw's?
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