GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: CV Boot Blow Out After Few Hundred Miles
Nov 15, 2011
So the long story short, i bought a JB 20th with 36k miles on it, lowered on Neuspeed Race Springs and HD Koni Struts. When bought, both inner CV boots were torn on the car. I ordered OEM CV boot repair kits for all four joints (made by Rein OEM manufacturer) and rebuild the axles completely.
I got the car up in the air today and the drivers side inner CV boot is already torn, after only a few hundred miles (if that many).
From what i understand, it is a common problem on the O2M 1.8T setups after lowering? Is there a solution?
I searched around, but it is still not clear what is the source of it, even though i found plenty of threads that state that its a common problem.
Upon inspection, the geometry of the axle or the angle at which it operates when the car is on the ground does not look that bad, it simply does not make sense.
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Trying to do new boot kit on inner cv joint. I have the ball and cage type inner joint. The joint cap comes off really easy (and a new one comes in the boot kit). The boot cover doesn't come off so easy (and there is no replacement in the boot kit). Bentley's and pretty much every other source of info says to carefully drive off the boot cover to remove cage. But they all pretty much gloss over how to do this carefully. I've hit it a couple of times with a screwdriver blade and hammer, but it's not budging. Trying not to hit it too hard.
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I know this has been covered before and I did search but got no where. It's covered in the FAQ sticky but the link is no good. Where can I get an axle assembly that's not going to cost me 550 bones like on ECS?
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Just tore through my second driver side outer boot it's frustrating. I'm thinking about buying an axle but are the boots not going to rip on them. Thing is I don't really get why the are ripping since I'm not super low or anything I know people that are lower and haven't had any issues
I put this new OEM axle in just a couple months ago. Could my Coilover be sitting to low in the strut housing and rubbing on the boot or what. I don't know if that is the mechanical terms but I did my best but how would I go about fixing this.
When I was looking around for the axle last time and I tried to go through smaller shops but none of the axles they had matched up, so I had to go to the dealership and my wallet took a beating. This time thinking about the cv boot kit for urotuning.
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I have a 2002 337. My gear selector has broke down under the boot.
Can I replace this part? Where can I get one? How do I get the old one out?
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My Question is, I have a 20th and I was wondering how to unclip the ring that's at the base of the shifter to get to the shift knob and boot. I'm sure its really easy but, I've been messing around with it and it seems pretty solid. I just don't want to break any tabs or anything. Is there a trick to getting this off without breaking the clips on the ring?
My 2 question is, How easy is it to swap out the shift boot? Will a universal shift boot with the elastic bottom work? I'm just wondering cause I have a momo setup that I'd like to swap over.
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The A/C hasn't been working for a month now, won't blow cold air. Took it to the shop and they put 1.5 pounds of freon in it. But it still won't blow cold. I'm taking a 1200 mile trip in it soon and the shop isn't an option. There's no leak as of now. What to do?
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I wanted to get a blow-off valve for my GLI but its bone stock, i was wondering if its possible or if it would cause problems. and if i can whats a good brand?
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I got a 04 jetta gli that is making a loud blow off noise at around 15 psi. Up until then the the boost holds fine but then at around 15 psi it just starts whistling really loud and loses all boost. I recently replaced the DV and venthose by the camshaft, and made sure that it is tight. I also installed a 42DD 3" exhaust recently. The car has about 96k on it with stock vacuum hoses except for the aforementioned adjustments. I'm pretty sure it's not the hose and DV I replaced because I made sure that they were tight to see if that was the problem, and it did not fix it.
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This is my other question. I have an APR program and turbo-back billy boat exhaust. I installed a boost gauge that gets the reading off of the intake manifold (fuel regulator.)
So if I'm just tooling along, short-shifting and only using 1/10 throttle, and my boost gauge never reads above -5, let alone 0 or positive, why does my valve release pressure?
Why would there be pressure to release if there is a vacuum, according to the gauge? I wouldn't think that a recirculating or blow-off valve would work in reverse.
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Looking to have it installed? I bought it but I haven't installed it yet...
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I have a 2001 Chevy Prizm - a Toyota Corolla clone. It has about 50K miles and uses oil at the rate of about 1 quart every couple hundred miles. You'd think if the oil was being burned, it would leave a trail of smoke behind the car - or at least, the rear of the car would be covered with oil. Or if there was a leak, the underside of the car would be covered with it.
Nope, neither of those cases. No drips in the driveway, the underside is clean, no smoke. The only trace is that around the exhaust is a small amount of oily dirt - but it seems only slightly excessive - certainly not in proportion to the amount I am using. Where the oil is going?
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Is it possible to change the MFA reading to metric? My car is from the US and wanted it to read in kms??? Looked in the manual couldnt find anything....
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Ok so i have a bmp gli with 71000 miles. Im extremely conservative while driving to but i noticed when I am going around 25 to 30 miles per hour i hear a repetitive thumping noise. It only happens during this speed and his been this way for a while now. I am kind of ocd with my car and the noise is starting to get to me. What it may be.
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I was heading back into town the other day after fueling I accelerated to pass a vehicle then a pop not as loud as a boot blow off followed by smoke entering the cab and under the hood. After going into neutral and keeping the engine on to maintain brake power I came to a rest in a safe area. I was reading online some people rebuild these but I'm a bit hesitant given the tight tolerances of this part and currently leaning towards replacing the cartridge they sell at riff raff (500 plus new hardware) instead of the whole turbo (850). Now it's time to start cleaning the engine/undercarriage after the 255 mile tow home.
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I'm repainting my peeling shifter trim plate and replacing the shift boot with a new one. Lots of support available on removing the shifter and disassembling the trim plate, but no clear instructions on how to remove the boot from the knob. It looks like this inside:
How do I separate the boot from the knob to install a new boot? The only instructions I found showed a metal collar which is not the case in our cars.
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I've been noticing that my 15 RCF idles a bit weird. Regardless if AC is on or not, the idle seems to always be fluctuating a couple hundred rpms - almost barely noticeable. Usually 500-700rpm back and forth. Doesn't really bother me but I wonder if it's just my car or if all the RCF has the same issue and if it was a sign of a bigger issue.
Doesn't matter which mode I'm in either. Of course it's only noticeable when there is the actual needle stick on the RPM gauge (eco mode and the gauge with the yellow doesn't show well).
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I want a 20th AE & have seen pics that say ESP on a button next to the hazard & others say ASR. I know that their was one option for the car: ESP. So what's ASR? Is one better than the other? Is it the same? I've heard that the ESP sucks for autocross. Is this true?
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I was driving at about 60mph in 4th gear and knocked it into 2nd and the rpm's hit the max and the car shut off and I have not been able to get it started. I have compression, fuel, and spark . I've checked oil and don't have any coolant in and nor did I have any oil in my coolant. When I try to start it it try's to start but won't turn over so .
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Driving home from work, I was about 5 minutes from home, got to a light only to not be able to go into 1st. I popped it into 2nd and drove home like that pretty much. Car will let me get into reverse and all other gears.
I can put the shifter towards first but it doesn't fully go in and when I gave it gas it would let me start to creep and then grind a little and pop out.
Heres a pic for your click .....
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I was searching but I can't find any DYI's on turning your Daytime Running Lights off on our cars. I don't feel like buying a euro switch right now. How to do this or has done this to their vw's?
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