I was parking today and when i looked up my CEL was on. So I got the code pulled and it turns out I'm running lean with a base one. I think it was? the mechanic told me it was my o2 sensor but I'm not sure which one it may be whether it be before or after the cat?
View 5 RepliesI got a 04 mk4 gli 1.8t and I got a po171 lean code and I know it could be a vacuum leak the maf sensor and other things. But when I clear the code it takes a couple days for it to come back on. But when I do clear it and start the car for the first time the car idles read bad almost sounds like miss fire. The when I pull out it hesitates just for a little than runs fine. Could this be a bad or dirty maf sensor? Like I said it takes a while for the cel to come back on.
View 1 RepliesMy Question is, I have a 20th and I was wondering how to unclip the ring that's at the base of the shifter to get to the shift knob and boot. I'm sure its really easy but, I've been messing around with it and it seems pretty solid. I just don't want to break any tabs or anything. Is there a trick to getting this off without breaking the clips on the ring?
My 2 question is, How easy is it to swap out the shift boot? Will a universal shift boot with the elastic bottom work? I'm just wondering cause I have a momo setup that I'd like to swap over.
Driving home yesterday and a check engine light came on while I was at a stoplight. When I got home I plugged my scanner in and came up with a P2187 code, running lean at idle. Cleared the code and went inside to start doing my google homework.
Looking around various threads I'm leaning towards the PCV valve being shot. Seems like they go quite a bit and it describes quite a few of my problems going on; CEL, lumpy idle, and a bit sluggish.
Currently at 50k miles on my 2011. I've been Revo stage one for about 7k if that makes a difference too.
I have a 2000 Ranger, with a 4.0 V6, 4X4, with 175,000 miles and it still runs great except the check engine light is on and it is saying that both banks are lean. I put in new plugs, all 3 O2 sensors, cleaned the MAF and checked for vacuum leaks, all to no avail...
View 17 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford f150 4.6L automatic. My check engine light had been on for awhile so I dug out my DTC code reader erased it, came back on 10-15 minutes later. I got the code P1131 sensor indicates lean which you would think is the O2 sensor a week later it won't start. Then randomly a couple days later it starts then that night it didn't. Hear is the parts that confused me. I don't believe an oxygen sensor would cause it not to start, it's cranking nice just won't turn over. And when you get the code P1131 I believe it bay 1 where the readings are off Well here's my readings.
Fuel system 1 CL-FaultCalc load 34.1%ECT 201.2 FSTFT B1 -1.6%LTFT B1 0.0 %STFT B2 -1.6%LEFT B2 0.0%ENG RPM 1101VEH SPEED 27 MPH
It looks like to me bay 1 and 2 are off? I'm not mechanically challenged, but not a mechanic either, I do most my own work on my vehicles..
I picked up a really cheap Hyundai Elantra 2005 that the kid that owned it really beat up on. Right now I am trying to sort out the issues so that it can become my daily driver for the next few years.
Second issue, The check engine light is on and it is popping up a P0171 generic engine running too lean code. The car looses power sometimes and I can smell gas in the car. I have a friend that is going to be loaning me his MAC code reader so that I can see if it is one of the O2 sensors and if so which one tomorrow.
So, for about two weeks now, my engine has been running hot. I have a 2003 Volkswagen Jetta VR6, the cat converter and the MAF Sensor have both been replaced w/in the past year. Oh yeah, also replaced my thermostat within the past 2 years. Trying to trouble shoot the problem. I had the radiator flushed the other day. No engine light is currently on. It doesn't happen to me in the morning (due to the cold ass weather) but towards the end of my stretch home from work (all interstate) the temp gauge goes past the 190 degree mark. Doesn't reach the red, however its still too hot for comfort.
View 9 RepliesA couple of months ago I replaced my coils because of misfires. Just yesterday I satarted getting the running in 3 cylinders feeling. So I was woundering why they went out so fast? (Coils were from my brothers 20th gti)
View 5 Replies2003 f150 supercrew with 166,000 miles on it. Daily driver. Service light randomly comes on and when code reader was put to it shows "left bank running lean." Will clear it and will randomly come back on. Truck seems to be running fine. No issues engine. Bad sensor? Or bad injector? Maybe way to test?
View 1 RepliesIs there anyway to turn off the daytime running lights?
View 4 Replies03 20th anni.... MFing light bulbs are driving me crazy.
View 3 RepliesThe car will start up fine, run for 10 - 20 min and stall. I will try and restart it but i takes atleast 7 or 8 sec of the car just turning over before it slowly fires up. Which results in a high idle 1200-1400 rpm and the car stalling another 5 min later.
Ive fixed my o2 sensor the wire was cut, replaced the fuel filter, and got a eurojet lower pcv hose for the vacuum leak i found.
I've just recently starting getting a really annoying vibration coming from under the hood, only occurs while engine is running >~3000rpm's. Sounds like a metal plate shaking somewhere, any clues on where to check??
View 7 RepliesMy sister has a 2004 gli 1.8t with 65k. The temperature gauge says its overheating, the cel is on, but the car appears to run fine, the fluid levels are appear to be fine, and you cant see any leaks. Her fiance thinks its water pump issues...
View 4 RepliesAbout three nights ago I had a complete power loss on the highway and the car began to bog down alot under throttle (and surge at points as well although with no boost). It also idled very rough/erratically. When I unplugged the MAF it cleared up right away; Idle was smooth and it ran without hiccup but in safe/limp mode so very tame (again, without boost really, gauge shows it stays in Vacuum and never passes "0" or goes into boost).
I scanned it this evening and got 2 misfire codes and a MAF code, along with a code related to traction control which I noticed had activated as a result of this and could not be turned on (by activated, I mean the light came on, disengaging T/C). These things make me think it is MAF related, especially because I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I do not think that is what it could be in relation to the misfire codes (which I think may be old and needed to be cleared).
Fast forward to last night: I can pretty confidently say my MAF is not the problem and I think I saved an unnecessary expenditure. I was able to meet a friend with a 337 as well and his MAF did not change my car at all and my MAF ran fine in his car so I think my problems are something else. Although with the MAF plugged in my car runs very poor and unplugged it clears up and just runs "limp" (no boost and slow but stable) from what I tested this evening the MAF unit seems to not be the issue.
I think there must be a vacuum leak of some sort between the MAF and the engine which allows more air in than the MAF signals when plugged in which causes the issue. Also, I know a common thing to think is "coilpacks" but I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I would imagine that would eliminate those from being the failure they tend to normally be. Agreed ??
What is the factory AWP 20th AE boost pressure?
View 6 RepliesI have Unitronics Stage 2, and a 3" downpipe... I keep getting a CEL P0420. I know its about the second o2 sensor, but I don't understand why I am getting the CEL with my chip? Could it be possible that when I put the downpipe back in i reversed the 2 sensors? Or are they the same...
View 5 RepliesSo i have a 2004.5 gli 6spd that had two of the coils go bad and had a serious misfire with engine code and all car didnt want to even move. So i got this fixed made it about a mile down the road and it had a cylinder 3 misfire took it back had third coil replaced and all new plugs put it. Got the car back it ran fine until i hit about 4000 rpm under heavy boost it misfires but no flashing cel like before and the car still runs but cold start warmed up it misfires under boost
View 20 RepliesEver since ive owned my 337 its always been a pain to keep my cel off but i got a pocket scanner and found that the code is coming up for a bad ECM !!! i called around and the cheapest i found was 1200.
View 8 RepliesI have an 04 GLI and keeps throwing a code for the 02 sensor, and after putting the car on the lift, and disconnecting the 02 sensor harness, a fine oil leaks out at the end of the connector and smells and looks like power steering fluid.
View 9 Replies