GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: CEL Came On After DV Switch Replaced - Code P0420
Aug 12, 2013
So I recently (within the last month) replaced my DV for a Forge 007 and my stock air box for an EVOMS v-flow. My cel came on after the DV switch and was throwing the P0420 code at me. Then I swapped the intake and it has been good but I felt like I was running a bit rich and pulled my codes and it now has P0030 in addition to P0420. Why this is? I have 88K miles. Spoke to a mechanic and he says he thinks it is my cat dying. I'm a bit confused since I have a turbo back exhaust.
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I have Unitronics Stage 2, and a 3" downpipe... I keep getting a CEL P0420. I know its about the second o2 sensor, but I don't understand why I am getting the CEL with my chip? Could it be possible that when I put the downpipe back in i reversed the 2 sensors? Or are they the same...
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I have a 2002 GTI 337, 1.8T and I get the faulty code P0420 insuf.cat flow?? ... it is a way arround it
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My Jetta has been throwing this code on and off for over a year now. It used to only come on when it was really cold with wet roads. Now the code will randomly come on in any weather. I usually just clear it but it's coming on to often now. I don't notice any performance issues or gas mileage problems.
Scan shows : Trouble Code - P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
I've been reading and apparently 1.8t engines only have One bank? I'm assuming this the the front 02 sensor throwing this but not sure?
I have an aftermarket exhaust/high flow cat. Apparently this can be caused by a high flow after market catalytic converter and one solution is to use a test pipe or spacer to move the rear O2 sensor further from the exhaust gas flow. But I'm not sure this is the issue since I think it's my front sensor throwing the code? That's not by the Cat is it? I just don't want to have the sensor replaced to have the code still come up.
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I have heard that there is a traction control code u can have switched on when your car is started traction control is automatically off and u have to use the switch to turn it on!
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I have a 2001 Chevy Prizm that I just had the front pipe replaced on. It was not accelerating well and making noise. New front pipe and it feels like a new car. The check engine light came on. i cleared the code, drove it for a day or so, and the light is back on. My exhaust mechanic says we don't really need to worry about the cat con hurting our engine unless we see a decrease in performance. Are there any mechanics out there who would say that is true. The car has 160,000 miles and we want to see it go another 100,000 or so, and not do anything to damage the engine.
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2004 jetta gli 1.8. Replaced oil pan, fixed a broken vacuum hose. Car doesn't have power, and has white exhaust smoke lots of it. Auto shop says my turbo is going out. [URL]....
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I just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
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A few weeks ago, my battery died, got a new one, ran fine for a week. Then wanted to go to work a a few days ago, turn the key and heard nothing, took the starter out, got a new one and put it in (used-but I took it apart and it looked fine) Once I put that in was excited to have my car back, but same thing, not even a sound coming from the starter, doesn't even try. Thought it might be a fuse problem, checked everyone that might have to do with the engine...and they all looked fine.
Something with the relays perhaps? I haven't checked those yet. A ground issue? I'm so lost right now.
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So yesterday I finally got around to replacing the driver side door lock module in my GLI. I bought a OEM replacement. After taking 4 hours to install it yesterday I locked the doors and armed the alarm to see if replacing the module would stop the possessed car alarm. It didn't, at 1:30 am the alarm went off waking up me and my family. I've ran out of options of what it could be setting off the alarm and it's annoying having to unhook the battery every night.
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so i bought projector headlights on my 05 gli and they were easy to install and for the first few days no problems, when the car was off and the lights on it was the parking (P) lights (amber lights), later if the lights were on and the car was off the radio would turn on, the A/C and the low beams would be on even if the hand-break was up, and i still have the DTR lights on. is it a short circuit problem???
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(6 speed)... I have faulty reverse lights, my speed sensor is working so I am sure it isn't the fuse, I am guessing this means the switch/sensor is broken. Where it is located, and what the correct part number is?
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I have a 20th anniversary gti and the driver side door wont lock and the gas door wont unlock. The passenger door is fine. The drivers side door will not lock from the switch inside the car or the remote. I already replaced the locking module and nothing changed. I also unplugged and cleaned the 3 plugs for the drivers side wiring harness.
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I have been having an issue with my interior lights, namely all the dash lights (cluster, climate, stereo, etc)
I have to keep switching the euro switch back and forth until it finally switches on the interior lights. The headlights still work but not the fogs, unless the interior lights go on.
What this could be? Perhaps an electric problem? Faulty euro switch?
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Happened on my mk6 now on the 20th! When I go to hit the switch for the gas tank release it is completely silent. Could that be the module? Half a tank left so not to worried about bringing it somewhere.
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My reverse lights are out on my GLI 2004, i bought a new reverse light switch thinking that would fix it but no.......
I then checked for power in line and by jumping it and the light go on
So Switch is goodLine as power
But as soon as it's intalled no go, light out.... it seem's like the lever inside doesn't reach the connector from the switch.
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I have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.
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What is the factory AWP 20th AE boost pressure?
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So i have a 2004.5 gli 6spd that had two of the coils go bad and had a serious misfire with engine code and all car didnt want to even move. So i got this fixed made it about a mile down the road and it had a cylinder 3 misfire took it back had third coil replaced and all new plugs put it. Got the car back it ran fine until i hit about 4000 rpm under heavy boost it misfires but no flashing cel like before and the car still runs but cold start warmed up it misfires under boost
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Ever since ive owned my 337 its always been a pain to keep my cel off but i got a pocket scanner and found that the code is coming up for a bad ECM !!! i called around and the cheapest i found was 1200.
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I have an 04 GLI and keeps throwing a code for the 02 sensor, and after putting the car on the lift, and disconnecting the 02 sensor harness, a fine oil leaks out at the end of the connector and smells and looks like power steering fluid.
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