GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Bucking / Limp / Hesitation After Clutch Install
Feb 13, 2010
I took my car in for a clutch install, everything was fine except the clutch slipping. I go to pick up my car and once the car warmed up it started bucking / limp mode while accelerating. Take it back to the mechanic and he thinks he didn't reset the throttle body. So he says that should be it and I pull away. Same thing. Leave it with him again and he replaces with "diag" coils and new plugs. Leave again, same thing. He tells me to get totally new coils and try that. I am thinking its a missed ground cable or messed up ECU or something. During all this not one code it thrown.
20th GTI 1.8T 6 speed, stock clutch, all stock
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Last week I had the Godspeen intercooler installed on my 05 Jetta GLI. I would say that since the install I have put about 300+ miles on the car so I would think that the computer has learned the additional air flow. I notice that if I'm cruising in 4th gear just below 3000 RPM's and punch it there is hesitation. It is quite noticeable because I have a full 3" inch exhaust so you can hear it hesitate for about a second and then kick in again and continue up the powerband. Do I need to get a good tune or has the computer just not learned it yet?
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Having trouble with car going into limp mode or just not boosting at all. Tried some basic things to fix it, plugs, coilpacks, tune, none have work.
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Was driving the other day and one of the couplers came loos and I lost boost and went into limp mode. I pulled over, got it reattached, and after that it would only hit 10 lbs. i have a KO4-001 with the GIAC file and it usually hits 20+ and holds 20 lbs. I have a regular code reader and I had a code for the EBC, cleared it, rechecked the hoses, and verified with the flash loader that I was on the correct file, but it is still only hitting 10 lbs. What else I should check.
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There ended up being 6 or 7 codes. Originally the first O2 sensor and wire seemed to go bad, I replaced them and it ran well for a couple days and then started running like ass again...Now there are a few codes, none for the 02 sensor, but for over boost issues...Does this mean my n75J valve is causing the problems? Is it possible that my software is just going bad? ...I bought the car somewhat molested and don't quite know the extent of the parts on it, nor the brands( specifically, the software...).
The current codes being thrown:
P0238 mani pres g31 sig to high
P0234 overboost
P0106mani barometric sensor g31
We replaced the manifold pressure sensor, and am not having the issues but they could and probably will come back after 50 or so miles...Previous code also was P1114 02 sensors and we replaced the front sensor. It may be that the software that is on the car is starting to go..
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So I have a bad map sensor and lately my turbos been going in and out of limp mode. I recently just replaced with a new n75 valve and it solved the problem for about a week and now it's acting up again. Its not a constant problem it occurs usually every 20 starts. Could the map sensor be the reason why my car is going into limp mode?
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Preliminary info:
APR 93 tune
Carbonio Intake
Silicone TIP
I picked up my 20th today and drove it 4 hours home. It has 74k on it, original timing belt. The timing belt kit is in the mail on its way here. Its the first thing I'm doing.
As I was driving it home on the autobahn doing about 150k/hr and I gave it half throttle to pass, I felt the turbo spool and I accelerated past the car. However, when I went to make the next pass, it felt like I had no power. I feathered the throttle a bit and it felt like my car was only getting maybe 3 PSI of boost. Very little actually. I do not have a boost gauge so I can't really say it accurately. As I was driving, i shut the ignition off and turned it back on. After that, I was able to get full pressure back.
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I need to know how to install an oil pressure gauge...or what is the location on the oil filter flange where this thing gets installed...
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I got a quick question about limp mode. I know this has prolly been covered a few times but I couldn't find anything too similar. Well, to start out my car cannot boost past 3lbs. If i turn the car off and take the terminals off the battery and let it reset for a while, it goes back to normal for a while. After a few times driving it, limp mode comes back on.
The first time this happened, the check engine light came on also. But once I reset the battery it turned off and went back to normal. But it never stays away for good, limp mode always ends up coming back...
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I got this car (03 gti 20th a/e) a few months back, and days after taking ownership it started having issues. the one that's still present is related to the boost. Every time I go to accelerate and hit 15-17psi the car sputters, and sounds like a popping noise under the hood..followed by the car going to 5psi for a few seconds, and the engine light flashing (then goes to solid cel).
The car has been scanned for the cel and it had thrown a number of codes-all have been addressed..but still have the same issue!--misfire in #3. I have had a local shop that only works with vw's & audis do all the repairs. we have replaced the coil pack, the spark plugs, and the N249 boost valve. The car is still showing a misfire in #3. What could be the issue? Maybe its the tune?
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Noticed a loss in fuel economy after a CAI install??
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I am wanting to install a oil pressure gauge to go along side my boost gauge in my double pod on top of my steering column, how to do this?
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So my car is throwing a P0172 and when I start to get into the throttle, I get hesitation. I have replaced the plugs and the coil packs, and I tried unplugging the MAF which just made the car run worse. What could it be? Boost leak? Something else?
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I have a 377 gti 2002 and just the other day i had some hesitation on take off. it sounded like the engine was cutting the fuel, at the time i had an o2 sensor code so i replaced the o2 and got new spark plugs while i was at it. it was still hesitating and cutting out so i figured it might be the maf because ive already replaced it once, i cleaned it and still doing the same things. i called my local vw/audi shop (audub) and he said it might be the pcv valve. i checked to see if there was air sucking in through the oil dip stick and the oil cap. its running just fine at idle and it seems that in first and second gear that its hesitating at 1000-2000 rpm and the higher gears are fine. could a leak cause this or is the pcv system bad?
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Having issues with turning over but no start, sometimes takes up to five turns to start up, and hesitation on hwy in 6th gear. Fuel problem im pretty sure.
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I have a 04' Jetta 1.8T (AWP) my mods are APR Chip (91octane program) Forge 007 DV, APR TIP, NGK spark plugs, catback exhaust. This issue I am having pretty much started when i got it chipped and I've got it reflashed and I've even talked to people at APR and they are saying that it couldn't be a software issue. Anyhow the problem I am having is at partial throttle my car kind of hesitates a little at 5psi and when i let of the gas the car kind of hiccups a little.. but if i really punch it in every gear i hit 21-22psi no problem, the problem happens when I am driving normal and its really annoying.
I have switched several different N75 valves, I am running the stock one now, I've switched different DV's, i have switched my spark plugs and even put at APR turbo inlet pipe and i have checked for boost/vacuum leaks, I have no CEL...all this hasn't resolved my problem.. I don't know what else to do..
I was thinking about switching my MAF to see if it works, but then again if it was my MAF im sure I would have a CEL. I also was thinking about putting my N75 valve backwards even the DV backwards to see if it works?
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Recently purchased a 2005 Jetta GLI with 31,xxx miles on it. It is my second 1.8T. My first was very reliable, with never any issues even after the 100k mile mark and is the reason I didn't hesitate to buy another one. That, and the Recaro Edition GLI has always been one of my favorite cars.
So I've had it for about a month now and I've noticed on occasion a problem with cold starting. One weekend it sat for almost two days because we used our other car, and then again this morning it was particularly chilly here in Pittsburgh, about 35degrees F and it took me two starts to get it going.
I always turn the key to 'on' for a few seconds and let the fuel pressurize and all the indicators light up. It doesn't appear to be the battery as it turns over strong, though I have not yet confirmed this is a Voltage reading. Once it kicks over, it seems to be choking or sputtering, unable to get up to idle. The second time, it does it again but gets past it and all is well...
I'm checking records now to see if the 30k mile service was completed. perhaps a tune up and new plugs would work?
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I have a 2002 1.8 Turbo VW GTI. Lately I've noticed that the car would hesitate slightly when slowing down. It would go up to at least 5000 RPM's or higher before it shifted over. The hesitation when slowing down and accelerating tend to happen when I drive. What to do, I went to the vw company they said if i want to change the transmission would cost me ~6k$ and f*ck me twice if if am paying 6k on a 2002 car.
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I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
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Today I went to start my car and let it warm up and everything worked fine and it started regularly but when I went to go drive the car and put the clutch in the pedal didn't return and I could not put it into gear, need to identify the problem.
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My wife was driving home and was exiting the freeway, downshifted and then no response from the clutch or gearbox. It would move left to right but not go into any gear with the car on. No real pressure in the clutch pedal either. With the car off you are able to find all the gears but when you start the car in gear with the clutch down it just jumps forward and dies. No smoke or burning smells either way and the pedal does come up by itself. Pushed the car into the driveway and its goin to the shop tomorrow morning.
With the search button so far: master/ slave cylinder, full clutch problem, air in brake/clutch lines, shifter linkage bracket
I don't think it's the slave cylinder as the pedal is NOT stuck to the floor, but I am not handy with cars, only motorcycles. First thing I checked was the linkage bracket, which seemed to be fine and as I stated, I was able to get in gear while car was off. Brake fluid was almost full but i know that doesnt rule out air in the lines.
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