GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Boost Drop After Popping Noise When Driving
May 22, 2011
Was driving when I heard a pop n my boost dropped. Normally run 17 psi but my boost gauge is now only reading it's pushing 4psi. There is no smoke coming out my exhaust or anything, when I had it scanned it read it was a bad pressure sensor in the inter cooler so I replaced the sensor cleared the code took it for a drive n the same thing happened...check engine light came back on n still running like crap.
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The past few days ive been having some boost problems. Boost will surge to 15psi then drop to 0psi and continues on acceleration. Coming from work today I was unable to get past 5psi accelerating
Then on WOT the boost would spike to 23psi then down to zero. Checked all hoses i could see and reach to make sure they were connected.
Mods:
Forge 007 DV
ECS Race N75 Valve
Turboback Exhaust
Chipped
Short Ram Intake
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I recently developed a tapping/popping noise come from the passenger's side of my GLI. The noise is kind of hard to explain, it's similar to the popping sound the seats make every once in awhile when you move around in them, if that makes any sense. I can't really get a video of the sound because I don't think it's quite loud enough. It's starting to get worse, and getting aggravating. It's not coming from the seat, it's more up near the front of the car, maybe where the door hinges are? I can't really pinpoint it.
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I got a 04 jetta gli that is making a loud blow off noise at around 15 psi. Up until then the the boost holds fine but then at around 15 psi it just starts whistling really loud and loses all boost. I recently replaced the DV and venthose by the camshaft, and made sure that it is tight. I also installed a 42DD 3" exhaust recently. The car has about 96k on it with stock vacuum hoses except for the aforementioned adjustments. I'm pretty sure it's not the hose and DV I replaced because I made sure that they were tight to see if that was the problem, and it did not fix it.
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sometimes when i switch from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd i get a loud popping noise like my exhaust is hitting the under side of the center column. I have had the car on a lift and shook the hell out of the exhaust...it's not moving enough to cause that loud popping...so i figured it could possibly be the dogbone mount gone and the downpipe is hitting when i shift because the mount is bad?
Or could it be one of the other mounts...I'm going through a divorce right now and really really broke so i need to make sure i get the right one and fix it right the first time. What mount it is if not positive its the dogbone?
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I got this car (03 gti 20th a/e) a few months back, and days after taking ownership it started having issues. the one that's still present is related to the boost. Every time I go to accelerate and hit 15-17psi the car sputters, and sounds like a popping noise under the hood..followed by the car going to 5psi for a few seconds, and the engine light flashing (then goes to solid cel).
The car has been scanned for the cel and it had thrown a number of codes-all have been addressed..but still have the same issue!--misfire in #3. I have had a local shop that only works with vw's & audis do all the repairs. we have replaced the coil pack, the spark plugs, and the N249 boost valve. The car is still showing a misfire in #3. What could be the issue? Maybe its the tune?
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I'm to the point of driving the car off a cliff! I've included a log of the car acting upt. The car is a 20th AE GTI AWP. It was chipped all it's life and ran like a champ. In November I installed a Frankenturbo F21T turbo kit, Bosch EV14 550cc injectors, 3" MAF, eBay FMIC, 3" catted exhaust, and a custom tune from Motoza. Dave at Motoza has updated the file 4 times and no matter what he changes, the car will boost up to the requested boost of 19psi and hold it for almost one second, then boost will drop to 12-15psi and then boost past the request to like 22-24 psi and go back and forth until the gear is over and I shift. Then it does the same thing in the next gear. i just want a solid 18-20psi without a manual boost controller! Things I have tried:
-Changed the N75J back to a NEW stock N75
-Replaced all the N75 vacuum lines
-Wastegate cracks at 7-8psi
-Replaced every worm feed clamp to a nice T-bolt clamp
-Boost leak tested to 18psi and found no leaks
-Deleted SAI, N249, and N112
-Unplugged MAF, nothing changed
LOG with multiple WOT pulls: [URL]...
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I have a 20th 1.8t. It was running fine last week but all of the sudden i was only getting about 4-5 psi. I have check all over vwvortex for somewhat of an answer. I have no C.E.L.. I have checked for vacuum leaks with nothing coming up. I tried to check for boost leaks but it comes out of the dipstick hole. I have undone and re-installed the pancake pipe. The DV is holding pressure.
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It sounds real bad while actually driving... some weird ticking noise and It's not a rod or an exhaust leak cause I couldn't find one or any of the shops I brought it to. What this could be? I'm tired of it sounding like a subaru. It has a 3 inch tb exhaust and f4t frankenturbo setup with 415cc software and injectors. I just need the turbo to last for a few more months then I'm going BT..
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when the traction control is off my boost hits 18psi and there have been times where it was 20 psi. My friend said i probably have stage 1 software .
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Start with the basics, no CEL's, car has not cut out while driving and I've only had to attempt cranking up the car twice since I started noticing these issues about 6 months ago.
Symptoms: hesitation/variation in boost during acceleration- doesn't matter if I really get into the gas or just "normal" passing acceleration RPM's steadily climb, but just not as consistent or quickly. Also, the one that really has me really confused. With a 1/4 tank of gas or less, going up a slight incline (overpass); 70-mph-ish... acceleration dies off, rpm's slowly decline, and gas pedal doesn't respond for about 2-3 seconds. Car never shuts off, no CEL's, then everything is fine again! Even does it when I'm using cruise control. Car just rolled 110,000 miles
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I'm not sure what to make of this ... I disconnected the battery before installing . The gauge seems to be reading correct based on what i researched. If there was a slight leak would it throw the CEL ? is it maybe just a one time thing that needs to be cleared afterwards ? Car drives fine and I plan on trying to stop at autozone to get there crapo freebie scan . Kinda annoyed considering everything went smoothly up until I drove the car more then 50 miles .
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So I have a 20th AE with 113k Miles.
All of engine is stock, but when I FLOOR it from about 3rd-4th or sometimes 2nd-3rd the car will build up boost but release it without me letting go off pedal.
So, basically as I am driving the car sort of builds up, drops, builds up, drops without my doing anything but drive.
It will rev to about 3k stop for a second, rev to 4k stop for a split second, rev to 5k and so on... Not sure what this is or why it could be happening...
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Having trouble with car going into limp mode or just not boosting at all. Tried some basic things to fix it, plugs, coilpacks, tune, none have work.
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So I just installed a boost gauge. Vacuum line is running off the fuel pressure regulator. My boost is now not going over 10 psi and the engine is cutting out. It kinda feels like the dv isn't holding psi but just always open. The car is a 05 gli with intake and exhaust.
Also the car seems to be running alright at below 2000 rpm and it just starts to cut out when it should be making boost. And I'm pretty sure this car is reprogrammed because yesterday when I finished the boost gauge install it was running at19 psi.
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Lately, every once in awhile my cars idle will drop and the car acts like it will die, but never does. I tried turning up the idle +50 with v-tune to see if it would cure the problem, but the car still acts like it will die during idle.
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For some reason My car won't boost like it used to in the upper gears. 1st, 2nd and even 3rd I can still boost around 18 but once I go 4th, 5th, 6th my boost get lower and lower to the point the I get only 10psi in 6th gear. The car also seems slower a doesn't spool that fast like it used. i checked most of the hoses, even my intercooler pipes which were leaking before and everything is tight. Could it be my DV which is still stock or should I look someplace else?
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When I hit the gas and my turbo reached high boost (15 psi and up), it would slightly sputter and make an odd sound. I even noticed my exhaust made a different exhaust note than usual. While it sputtered the CEL began flashing. I then drove it normally (not high boost) all the way home and it drove completely fine. I'm gonna try and get my codes checked tomorrow.
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Car now has about 67,000 miles on it. I drove it from the bay to Lake Tahoe 2 weeks ago, which is when I first noticed the light. I tried to go to a couple of autozone's to get the code read but none of them would do it. I also noticed that now on my boost gauge that i am only reading 4-5psi under load, so its not quite feeling like i'm getting as much power as before. What a common issue is at about this many miles on a 1.8t car? (GLI)
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If your diverter valve is bad, will it throw a CEL or not always? I don't have a CEL but sometimes I feel like there is a lag in the boost. Wondering if the diverter valve is bad or not.
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Sometimes while driving if i accelerate the car fully the rpms will accelerate way to fast (at least 2x faster than usual) without picking up much speed at all. I can tell that the car is not going to full boost. The problem is the worst in 5th and 6th gear (when the car is relying more on boost im guessing?) and will happen one day and be perfectly fine the next. I just had the car checked for a boost leak about 3 weeks ago so i dont think its that. The car is chipped with uni stage 1+ (20psi) and has a full 3 inch turboback.
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