GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Blinking Brake Light Upon Acceleration When Slow Down To Stop
Jul 27, 2008
After a full complete stop or slow down to almost complete stop upon acceleration from that stop or slow down my dash brake light blinks and yells at me for the standard amount of time then goes away. It only does it upon acceleration its weird its almost instantaneous with me pressing the gas pedal. No squealing noise or anything else is coming from the rotors and everything feels normal its just starting to get annoying as hell.
About 6 months ago I replaced my pads and rotors with the drilled and slotted kit performance-cafe offers and had it professionally installed because, I'm lazy and it would have take me years to do it. This problem only started recently so I'm pretty sure its something else or something went bad. What I should check or have specifically looked at if I take it in?
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What makes the brake light on the dash blink and beep after every stop? I've checked my e brake and made sure it was off so I know that cant be the issue
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The car is a 2005.5 GLI (75k mi) w/ EvoTech Stg1 software, GHL stack intake, and an Iridium billet diverter valve.
Well today I was driving and the Malfunction Indicator Light on the dash came on and started blinking. When I stepped on the accelerator, the car felt like it had 1/4 the power and began shaking. The car idles kind of weakly, and feels like it has no power when you step on the gas. Also, when you step on the gas the car will shake. The strength of the shaking depends on how hard I press on the throttle, more throttle = more shaking. There is no shaking when it idles or when I have it cruising, only when accelerating.
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Recently bought a black 20th for my girlfriend for Christmas. Any ways, so I floored it from a dig, and the ASR light kept coming on during acceleration and shutting off between shifts, just wondering what the situation is.
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Car was running fine on friday when I left for detroit, it sat in my driveway all weekend, but on the way to work this morning I get a warning light to STOP and my temp gauge is right below 260. It took about 10 miles for the light to come on and the car does NOT overheat while idling. The car is only at 52k and I have not replaced the water pump/timing belt yet.
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Have a jazz blue chipped tuned with giac.. It does this random times.. When I come to a red light on idle the rpms go up and down just a bet but never stalls. The car vibrates and the engine shakes a bit. Engine is stable when car is on and off. Idk if its motor mounts or what?
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Stop check coolant light came on dash tonight. Scanned the car no code. Did a search pointed towards coolant temp sensor. Car had it replaced by vw estimate of 30,000 miles ago. I tried to see if its green top sensor appears the very bottom ring is green but top is black maybe vw's is different than ecs? Planning to do water pump, belt kit from ecs anything else i should be looking at?
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I have a Hyundai Santa fe 2004 6cyl 2.7 L , AWD. I am having problem of slow acceleration which is worse after a stop sign or red light. Sometimes while taking turns I feels like that I will not move and I was lucky to be not hit by a Car coming from opposite direction while taking a left turn today.
The Truck’s exhaust pipe broke recently and a auto garage welded it. But I am facing the above problem immediately after the repair of exhaust pipe. If I put more pressure on gas pedal then a mal function indicator comes and today I took it to another mechanic and he gets the error code of P0303 –engine misfire and wants to charge me ~ $600 $ to replace spark plugs and wires. The malfunction indicator goes off also while I am driving and can comes back after a while or a day. With the indicator on, the car drives erratic (minor jolts ) for few meters and then its fine. Since when I am driving on highways then I can go higher speeds without any problem. Is it still misfire issue???
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My brake pad sensor light came on today. How long do I have until they start to ruin the rotors?
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When I am driving around, my brake light will appear flashing for several seconds then it goes off. What is that about?
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So a few days ago the warning light that my break pads are getting low came on. My friend needs a ride this weekend that would bring the round trip to about 300 miles. How soon are my break pads on my 20th going to be shot? I don't know if this is an early warning to let you plan to get break pads in the near future, or if it's the same thing as seeing the gas light(Oh crap, gotta head to the gas station and fix this NOW).
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I have an '05 GLI @ 45,000/mi. The sensor light came on for my brake pads about a week ago. So obviously I need new brake pads (front & rear? not sure...I know the sensor is only for the front). But I was also wondering if I need to replace the rotors.
I understand there is a measurement for the OEM rotors to tell when they need to be replaced. There is a little lip on the them, more so on the front than back. And they feel slightly grooved.
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Didn't even know it existed until it started blinking, but my key fob has a tiny little red LED that just started blinking today. I am guessing it means the battery is dying.
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I first heard this on Car Talk on National Public Radio (sundays at 10, on the west coast). I heard the question but not the answer. Wife favored slow and hubby fast.
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So I had the cv joints and boots replaced last year. When I turn at low speeds I get a clicking and some road noise, when I turn at higher speeds I get a lot of road noise. I feel like its a combination of strut mounts and wheel bearings?
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I have had my 20th for about a month now and I feel like first gear is so slow. I usually shift around 3,000 rpms. I was wondering if 1st if just slow in these cars or if there's something wrong?
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I have recently purchased a GLI and am in the process of resurrecting it. One of the main issues I am having is when I get up on it during acceleration I start to feel a strong pulsing. I have found that it only will do this in hot weather and it does it in every gear. I work at a volkswagen dealership and have asked other technicians if they had any clue and nothing. I am going to have a pressure test done to it to see if it could possibly be an intake problem. Everything on the car is stock and I don't want to upgrade anything until I figure out what this it.
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Start with the basics, no CEL's, car has not cut out while driving and I've only had to attempt cranking up the car twice since I started noticing these issues about 6 months ago.
Symptoms: hesitation/variation in boost during acceleration- doesn't matter if I really get into the gas or just "normal" passing acceleration RPM's steadily climb, but just not as consistent or quickly. Also, the one that really has me really confused. With a 1/4 tank of gas or less, going up a slight incline (overpass); 70-mph-ish... acceleration dies off, rpm's slowly decline, and gas pedal doesn't respond for about 2-3 seconds. Car never shuts off, no CEL's, then everything is fine again! Even does it when I'm using cruise control. Car just rolled 110,000 miles
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I was driving the other day and accelerated in 5th and the car stuttered before finally going- I got the flashing CEL. I figured that the car was misfiring and that a coilpack change was the culprit. All my coilpacks are fine and the sparkplugs look good as well. CEL hasn't come back, but the car just feels like it doesn't want to go right away when if i give it some gas when I'm going about 55-65 MPH.
Other guesses would be there is a fuel cut somewhere and that may be causing it?
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I have a 2004 VW jetta GLI 1.8 turbo and when i get it to about three and a half grand it feels like my turbo is giving out, all acceleration stops. But I doesn't do it all the time, meaning not every time i step on the gas, like I can step on it all through first and second, and it will do it in third or visa-versa. Which leads me to believe that it could be a fuel delivery problem but I don't know, im new to the VW game. The check engine light will come on while the car is bogging down but as soon as the rpms go down it will turn off.
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Under heavy acceleration my car surges. I have already put a new stock diverter valve on and no change....I am thinking n75 is next on my shotgun list?
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