GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Barely Able To Move The Shifter / Clutch Pedal Fell To Floor
Feb 5, 2009
The transmission is a Six-speed MQ350 transmission in an MKIV 337 GTI.
I was driving last week and ran over a large snow chunk, heard it hit the underside of my car. A mile down the road my foot is resting on the clutch pedal at a stop light, and the clutch slowly went to the floor. It was still drivable, barely. The clutch came about an inch off the floorboard, but still caught. So i pull into the parking lot ahead of me, and was barely able to move the shifter left to right nor would the shifter go into gear. There were no fluids coming from under the car, nor could i see anything that looked wrong. I turned off, back on again. nothing. I then pulled the clutch pedal up from the floor and it went back to normal. Everything seems normal now, but the shifter seemed a little sticky yesterday from left to right.
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Coming to a stop, clutch pedal just lost all pressure. I can bring it back up, but even the slightest touch will send it to the floor again. I get the brake warning light on the dash. What could be causing this?
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Just got in my car and the clutch went to the floor and stayed there when I stepped on it. What are the steps to diagnose this problem? I'm assuming my slave cylinder went kaput!
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50k Miles on my clutch. Was driving a couple weeks ago on the highway and clutch stuck to the floor. At first I thought it was my Slave cylinder. Got the trans out this weekend to find the mess (below) inside my bell housing. Obviously need a new clutch now and will still replace the slave while I am in there.
Cars setup is around 375ish whp. I know I could spend 1300 bucks and call it a day for a clutch master or south bend but was seeing if there is a cheaper alternative.
Also If I were to buy an OEM clutch or an upgraded one that was not rated for up to 400~whp would it drive and pull the same as a fully upgraded one just not last as long?
6 Speed ...
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I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
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We were headed home the clutch pedal went soft... Ok, I thought it's either the clutch master or slave. I get it home and replace the master and after bleeding I had good pedal feel.
Great I thought, I got lucky and it was only the master. Drive it around for a bit and get on the highway and just as I was about to downshift the pedal went flat to the floor again.
Well after pumping the pedal until it had good feel again I got it home and bleed it a couple more times just to make sure I got all the air out. Drove it again. Same thing, after a little while the pedal gets soft again.
Now before I go and replace the slave is it possible I have a faulty master? Having issues after replacing the master?
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Noticed the other day my clutch pedal trim is coming off... What did you do to fix it?
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I keep finding air every time i bleed my clutch. I am not losing fluid but i can not figure out whats causing my problems. The pedal is soft at first and then gets harder and it sometimes needs pumped before i change gears or to even get into gear. I am afraid its the slave but i also just may have air in the system.
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I just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
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So last night I was driving home from work, and at a red light while i was waiting to go i had my clutch down when light turned green i tried to go and noticed i could not put it in gear and that my clutch pedal was stuck in place. i didn't know what to do so I checked my shifter plate everything looked fine so went to look at the pedal and i pulled it forward and it came lose. I started it up everything was fine and back to order. This morning going to work same thing happened again, I don't know what is going on and what could be the cause?
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My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
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I have an Imola 20th and recently i have been having some problems with my clutch. The pedal goes from being soft to very hard when its close to disengaging. It also engages very heavily when I go to let it out. This only started happening recently when temperatures started to drop if this has any effect on a clutch. Also, I replaced a shift fork two months ago and was curious if there was possibly anything going on with seals around the slave cylinder.
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Recently my clutch started acting strange, the pedal felt softer and eventually after I pressed it in it stayed on the floor. After pumping it, everything went back to normal. Next day, still same thing, no pressure in the clutch pedal. I checked the brake fluid and it's full. There is also no sign of any leak. Took the car to the mechanic, he recommended changing the master cylinder. I changed it but still nothing. I tried bleeding the slave but every time I bleed it, it has air in it. So I'm stuck and don't know what should I do next. I think it might be my slave cylinder but I don't have a place or tools to do it myself. I'm pretty sure the entire tranny needs to be pulled out to remove the cylinder. I also read that most people change the clutch when they replace the slave.
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So your clutch pedal operates properly, the clutch engages with no issues, but this annoying squeak, snap, crackle, and pop noise keeps coming from the clutch pedal within the cabin.
Could it be your clutch master cylinder? CMC is not leaking in the engine bay and the driver footwell. Not the CMC.
Could it be your clutch switch that's used to control revs and cruise control? Removed it and clutch pedal still made noises when pressing and releasing the pedal. Not the CS.
Could it be the over-center spring that sits behind the clutch pedal assembly? How could it be? It's just a spring. Springs that compress in that orientation don't make snap, crackle, and pop noises.
What most people fail to realize is the noise is coming from the pedal assembly, but it's not the pedal structure or the pedal. It's the pivot point where it mates with the clutch pedal mounting bracket. At the pivot point are two bushings (one on each side of the pedal structure) that wears out over time creating these noises.
Please look up the part number for these bushings. They look like the following at this link but these are aftermarket upgrades for BMW's.[URL] ....
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I have a 2001 Volkswagen passat glx and last week I jumped in and hit the clutch and it fell straight to the floor with no resistance and i barely touched it.... What this means and if i can fix it myself instead of taking it to the dealership ?
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Drove to work in 6" of snow in 4H with no issues. Shifted back into 2H for drive home as roads were clear with no issues. Went to shift into 4H moments ago and floor shifter will not move!
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I have about 350 miles on my new jetta and i will like to know if its just me or did everyone with a manual go through the same, i feel that up shifting at higher rpms like 4k i feel like the clutch is grinding i actually feel it in the pedal, I haven't gone higher than 4k due to break in period. I also notice that there is no engage while getting out of first almost like its slipping but it is not, i have driven manual most of my life so i know i am not slipping the clutch.
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98 Jetta TDI hydraulic system ... We just received this vehicle from my mother in law, who is not driving any more. It's a cream puff--79,000 miles, beautiful condition. Problem is the clutch engages lower and lower to the floor, and eventually the shifter gets stuck in gear. The brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor when at stops on hills. Our mechanic tells us these two are connected because both the clutch and brake run off the same hydraulic system.
1st time he said the fluid was filthy, and he emptied the system and put in clean fluid. Worked for a little while and then we were back where we started. Second time he replaced a couple parts on the clutch, replaced this fluid, and this time it ran like a dream for a little over a month. Then the problem just returned. Again he says the fluid is filthy, and now we are looking at replacing the master cylinder and again changing the fluid. The theory behind why this is happening is that my mother in law let the car sit for half a year before passing it on to us. She didn't do much driving the 6 months before that either. I've done research, and this doesn't appear to be a common problem by any means on these cars.
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I was driving today and when attempting to go to fifth gear and sixth gear the shifter went completely loose, but if I returned it to neutral and go back to 1st through 4th I regain feeling of the shifter. Could something within my shifter box be box be broken? I can go into fifth and sixth manually from the shifter tower on the transmission,
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So I have been looking but cant really seem to find an efficiant way to remove my stock shifter.
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Details about my car: '91 Nissan Maxima. His name is Max. 183,265ish miles on it. Transmission was replaced maybe 8 years ago(?) My dad said the oil was changed at the 500 mark. Filled the tank up at Citgo with regular gas on Friday and only drove about 50 miles (I fill up every 200 miles or less). Max turns on but you have to floor it just to move an inch and it smells like gas.
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