For about two months I've been having a backfire problem but only when I get on it. We checked for leaks and nothing . The car had 11 codes and were all short to ground. Mechanic is saying my ecu is going out and I need a new one. Is it possible?
View 8 RepliesGetting onto the freeway, not putting the gas to the floor or anything, my throttle completely cut out on me and the EPC and ASR light came on. Turned off the engine, let it sit, and it fired right back up with no lights on.
Replaced the valve cover gasket recently and had a somewhat rough idle since, not sure if the coil over isn't all the way down but will investigate soon.
Ok, It doesn't start, it tries to but doesn't get there, its not the battery the alternator, the starter or the battery terminals which goes to my second question...for error codes do I just pop them in google to see what they mean or is there a better site??....reason why I'm removing the lip its because its being towed to the mechanic, its at my job's parking lot right now, first time ever my VW leaves me stranded but I guess it happens:
Error codes I got:
p0261
p0267
p0270
p0264
p0445
p0037
p2257
p0010
p0414
p0141B
I am trying to swap my ecu for a chipped one out of an 04 gti 1.8. Both awp engine codes. I programmed the immobilized and the car doesn't start. I am thinking it has the ignition kill feature but the guy who sold it to me doesn't think it does. i was just wondering if the ecu's are compatible even though the part number is different.
View 8 RepliesI changed my sparkplugs and coil packs last month. Was getting CEL light but it would go away after a while. I figured out that I had gapped my spark plugs way to small (almost touching) so I took them out two nights ago and regapped/ reseated them.
My car was running fine yesterday, but today when I started my car up, the engine was shaking a lot for about 10 seconds and the CEL was blinking. After 10 seconds the shaking and CEL went away...
It drove fine. I'm just wondering what could be throwing these CEL's and causing the shaking? Plugs are gapped to 0.32
Also, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced almost two weeks ago now. Any chance that could be lending to the problem?
My guess is that one or more cylinders are screwy. I'd rather not bring it into the vw mechanic since I'm tight on cash.
There ended up being 6 or 7 codes. Originally the first O2 sensor and wire seemed to go bad, I replaced them and it ran well for a couple days and then started running like ass again...Now there are a few codes, none for the 02 sensor, but for over boost issues...Does this mean my n75J valve is causing the problems? Is it possible that my software is just going bad? ...I bought the car somewhat molested and don't quite know the extent of the parts on it, nor the brands( specifically, the software...).
The current codes being thrown:
P0238 mani pres g31 sig to high
P0234 overboost
P0106mani barometric sensor g31
We replaced the manifold pressure sensor, and am not having the issues but they could and probably will come back after 50 or so miles...Previous code also was P1114 02 sensors and we replaced the front sensor. It may be that the software that is on the car is starting to go..
I am having an issue after my intake install, it was working fine all day and last night i get a light on the dash bored (looks like the one when you take off the esp) and I get this:
code 16485 Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) Implausible Signal : P0101
Static - No
What could be the cause of this because i ran this intake before no issues I only took it off and put the stock intake back in due to the rain but now since the rain is gone i decided to switch
I have a 2003 20th ann. GTI, it shut off on me on my way to work. It would turn on but only for a sec and turn back off. I turned it on and tried to move it over out the way of traffic and wouldnt move and turn back off. Got the check engine light checked and the codes P1007 which is coolant temp sensor and P0011 which is camshaft sensor. I replaced both and problem not solved car will start but wont go and turns back off, black smoke and a strong smell of gas comes out the exhaust.
View 3 RepliesI am getting the following trouble codes:
P0342 cam position sensor A bank 1 Ckt Low Input
P0102 MAF or VAF A Ckt Low Input
The accessory belt moves when I try to start it, but my timing belt stays still, but is kind of tight/very little slack.
It died on the highway, was in gear and it just lost power.
Cars have been having problems with the clutch sticking to the floor. Bled the brake valve. Seemed to fix the problem, took a 30 min drive following, and clutch to the floor 2x at the end of the drive. Then, my car started to sound like a freaking wrx! BARELY made it home and it will turn over but quickly spud out. checked codes and it missed fire in 3 cylinders and small puddle under the car. I'm stuck and out of ideas other than coils.
View 3 RepliesI recently installed the apr turbo compressor inlet hose and eurojet smic on my 20th. I am running apr stg. 1 software on apr diverter valve. I also have 3" ghl turbo back exhaust. The three codes I am getting triggered shortly after the 2 upgrades I mentioned above we're installed. In detail the codes read specific:
-idle air control system: RPM higher than expected
-bank 1 mixture adaptation(add): system too lean
-turbo/super charger: overboost condition
When the car idles it seems to miss every now and then I think cause the fuel mixture. It also does idle higher than it did before (~900rpm) when the cel comes on it seems to fix the missing issue but not idle rpms. I am running the stock ko3s turbo and am soon planning on a Eurosport cold air intake. Am I harming my engine? Can I get the light to stay off?
Just installed e-codes in my car about a week or so ago.. When I did, the blinkers started to blink very fast. All the bulbs work fine and everything, and the hazards blink normally as well. Does this normally happen?
View 7 RepliesI have multiple O2 codes on my '02 gti. It is giving me a check engine lights as well as the traction control light on. I received 6 codes all but one of them had to do with the O2 sensor and a short except for one that came in as the MAF. Both O2 sensors have been replaced and the codes still won't clear. I bought it in this condition, it runs really well so i wasn't to concerned about it, but the lights are starting to get annoying.
View 2 RepliesEngine temperature too low. Turbo boost pressure too high. The car has the APR 93 octane program, carbonio intake, and silicone TIP.
What could be causing these codes? The car gets up to temp (190) real quick and stays there, and I don't feel a fluctuation of boost.
So I picked up a 337 a little while ago, which I absolutely love, but there are some fault codes I have to deal with. Pretty sure I took care of the ABS hydraulic pump code. The ABS and ASR light came on after driving in some snow, but I found a thread about that, cleaned the fuses and the light is no longer on.
The following are the problems I am experiencing while driving the car:
I am seeming to have a power drop in 1st gear at low rpms. I have never driven a turbo'd car but I don't believe this is just turbo lag. It isn't a quick increase in power, rather a brief decrease, sort of like it's bogging down. I thought it was just me at first, but I have noticed it too many times and my gf even noticed it. I am not sure if this is related, but I thought I would mention it.
On occasion the dash lights will flash off then back on and reset my trip odo and clock. This has been happening more frequently as of late. It normally happens when I turn the lights on, or switch the brights on. The engine has completely turned off once at a stop light. I am currently searching all the codes online and am hoping to find a solution, but I am definitely concerned.
Also the AC/heater controls dials lights are out (just the three dials), and the 12v power outlet is not working. I tried switching the fuse but it isn't that. Thought this might connected. Final bit of info, the instrument cluster had a problem and was replaced by a dealer on November 29th. I don't know much more about it, I bought it right after that was done. Here are the actual fault codes.
Address 01: Engine
Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 ML
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 07510
[Code] ....
Alright i have a 05 1.8t GLI I just installed a 42 draft designs full 3inch turboback, and a eurojet turbo inlet hose, after I put the stuff on my check engine light came on which I thought was gonna happen and is normal but my traction control light came on as well, the cars running better then ever and pulling harder then ever, but when i hooked it up to the computer I'm throwing 18 codes? Ive triple check to make sure everythings tight and in the right spot? What could be wrong?
View 5 RepliesI'm getting codes P0441, P0446, P0456, P0420 and P0430.
My fuel consumption in town is around 12 mpg, so a bit higher than what others report. The cats were removed because they were in bad condition. I suspect excess fuel was sent to the cats. That would also explain the bad mpg ?
The 12v battery is 3 1/2 years old.
I rebuilt the HV battery in May 2015. I replaced 3 modules and took the pack through 3 charge/discharge cycles using Hybrid Automotive grid charger and simple discharger. I also cleaned the cooling fan.
All was fine for a month or so. Then I got the trouble lights but the obdlink I had wouldn't show the codes. I noticed a decrease in mileage and a slight hesitation upon acceleration from a stop.
I finally got the mini vci and a win xp laptop to find the codes:
P3000
P0A82
C1310
After maybe a week or so, the ICE wouldn't start and, being busy, I parked it for a while. About a month later, I pulled codes:
P0AA6 with detail codes 526 and 613
P3000 with detail code 123
P0A82 with no detail codes but it indicates "hybrid battery pack cooling fan 1 performance/stuck off.
I connected the grid charger and the HV fan engaged, as it should. I cleared codes and took a drive, while monitoring with Techstream. I watched the fan modes climb to 6, during driving and idling, over about a half hour period. Not sure if this means anything, but I've read that people can hear the fan from the driver's seat when it's running at 3 or 4- I forget which. Well, at 3, or maybe 4, I couldn't hear it. Even standing at the rear door, with my ear against the vent. Though, there was ICE and parking lot noise to contend with. Once it got to 6, I could hear it easily.
Battery health, at that time: With fan at 6, temp of batt tb1 through tb3 was 51.6 c, 56.5 c, 50.4 c.
Battery blocks voltage ranged from 16.05 to 16.15. Internal resistance ranged from .024 to .026 ohms.
Out of necessity, I've been driving this car again, for months now. The lights came back and the codes were still P3000 with detail code 123, P0A82 with the addition of C1310. I don't see a detail code in the same place but there is a field that says "detailed freeze DTC 156". I assume this may be a detail or sub code. Nothing has been preventing me from starting the car. But months ago there had been 2 occasions when, after having driven several miles and parked for a short time, then taking the freeway home, the car would idle high going up an overpass. On these occasions, the MFD shows a low SOC with only one purple bar. The first time this happened, it took around 10 miles before the SOC would creep up. The second time, I had it on cruise control and, while ascending a grade, the car jerked violently and acted as if I were flooring and letting off the gas in quick succession, about 4 times. I disengaged cruise control and took hills more slowly. The high idle up the hills backed off as the battery SOC increased. This time the SOC started in increase within a few minutes, as I would expect normally. I imagine that the electric motor was turning off and on, when the car was jerking, due to a low SOC.
These symptoms cleared up in a few days, apart from the hesitation on accelerating from a stop, and I've been driving it ever since. A few weeks ago, I noticed the car had major difficulty accelerating. I'll floor it and it barely moves, taking several seconds longer than it should to get up to speed. The SOC is stuck at 1 purple bar. I got the car home and turned it off. When I turned it back on, the SOC increased very quickly, only once. I now can't replicate that. The SOC simply will not go above one bar.
Another odd thing. When I'm creeping down the road, at say, 25mph, and I let off the throttle, the car just keeps moving as if cruise control is engaged.
2003 Prius. Situation as follows:
Malfunction Indicator Lamp lit on start-up during sub-freezing weather for failure to start (P3191 and P3101 codes loaded). Occurred twice (so far).
Dealer diagnosed as possible fuel pump problem, though fuel pressure nominal and held pressure after engine shut-off.
Independent mechanic (using EG011-03) diagnosed following:
Diagnosis codes: P3191 (engine does not start) and P3101 with information code 205.
Circuit opening relay was fine.
Fuel Pressure was normal (~45 psig) and held after engine shut off.
Coolant temperature - 9 deg C
Engine RPM - 1200
MG1 Torque value - 0
Installed ECU Part Number - 89661-47053, calibration # 14705301, 14705302
EG011-03 decision tree leads to replace Engine Control Module with newer part number.
Took back to dealer, who indicated still possible fuel pump problem (and reluctant to replace ECM).
I recently replaced my engine water pump at 164,000 miles on my 2007 Prius, the car sat for 3 weeks while waiting to gather needed parts, i.e., water pump, coolant and Airlift system for adding coolant fluid. After installing the new water pump the car ran rough for 5-10 minutes upon initial crank (parked for 3-weeks). I took a 20 minute test drive around the neighborhood that evening, outside temperature around 65 degrees F, and car ran fine. SOC looked ok, bars moving between Blue and Green, everything appeared normal.
The next morning, I backed out of my driveway and the Red Triangle of Death appeared on the dash so I parked the car.
That evening I hooked up OBDII ELM327 scanner using Engine Link and picked up 2 separate P0A80 error codes, 1 of them was pending. I disconnected the Aux battery for 3-5 mins to clear the error's, Red Triangle of Death was cleared, then drove the Prius for 20 minutes with no errors or alarms. SOC seemed to be normal. OBDII ELM327 scanner showed the HV batteries were charging at same level, 16.8V and Aux battery was registering at 14.0 Volts.
The next morning, after 20 minutes of driving the Red Triangle of Death appeared, and shortly after I experienced loss of power, with sporadic engine idle and interior traction battery fan was on. Luckily I had made it to work and was able to pull into a vacant parking lot.
I did notice that around the time the Red Triangle of death came on this morning the SOC dropped quickly to 1 Purple bar and was slow to charge then shortly after came the loss of power and sporadic engine idle followed by interior battery fan.
Recently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
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