Whenever I take a turn my seat slides side to side, both bolts are tight in the front. Is there a way to tighten the lower half of the seat so it doesn't move?
View 1 RepliesYesterday, I was taking off from a light and noticed that when I got around 10 PSI, the car kind of nosed over and sputtered. So I started to play around and discovered that no matter what gear, this always happened between 7-12 PSI of boost. Normal driving for me is shifting around 3k RPM, about half throttle. Sometimes when I shift, it pops. Not like a normal, chipped car pop but not quite loud enough to be a backfire.
I took my dad out in the car and got to 55 MPH, then held the throttle half way to keep boost around 10 PSI and it would start sputtering/bogging down erratically. Any more then 12, and the car is fine. Any less then 7 and the car is fine. He suggested a Throttle Position Sensor that has a dead spot in it.
Here's some thought from me:
Coils/Misfires - If it were a coil or misfiring, it would be all the time, not just what I described above, correct?
Boost Leak - At WOT, the car gets up and goes while holding steady boost.
Vac Leak - I've been told at idle, the car is supposed to have 19-21 in Hg of vacuum. It's at 20.
If you turn your speakers up, you can actually hear the exhaust gurgling in the video when I hit the spot I am talking about. There are no loud noises, so don't worry about maxing them. I had to.
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So I was wondering, what my problem might be. I went to go start my car after work 3 days ago and it cranked half way started and shut down. The things that I have checked are fuses both at the battery and in the side panel, fuel pump relay... It clicks when I turn the key, fuel pump.. Its getting 12 volts when the key is in the on position. Now a buddy of mine had me roll down the driver window and arm the alarm then open the door from the inside and the alarm did not go off nor does the dome lights come on. And the the fuel pump does not prime. He told me its a food lever switch. It's not recognizing that the door is open and that it's linked with the fuel pump that's why it's not priming and it's not starting.
View 13 RepliesStarted losing pressure on my clutch pedal yesterday. When I would push in the clutch pedal it would not push back up to the reset position. It would only come back up half the way. Now today I have a steady ABS light and ASR light on. Checked for fault codes and found no trouble code. Checked brake fluid resevoir for leaks; still has plenty of fluid. Checked slave cylinder bleeder valve for leaks and looks dry. The only thing I think it could be is the clutch master cylinder. If I drive the car for a few minutes I am able to build pressure back up in the clutch, however the ABS light and ASR light still remain while driving. Turning the car off and back on again shuts off the light for a few minutes until I start driving, but the clutch pressure starts back low again.
View 3 RepliesI have a 04' Jetta 1.8T (AWP) my mods are APR Chip (91octane program) Forge 007 DV, APR TIP, NGK spark plugs, catback exhaust. This issue I am having pretty much started when i got it chipped and I've got it reflashed and I've even talked to people at APR and they are saying that it couldn't be a software issue. Anyhow the problem I am having is at partial throttle my car kind of hesitates a little at 5psi and when i let of the gas the car kind of hiccups a little.. but if i really punch it in every gear i hit 21-22psi no problem, the problem happens when I am driving normal and its really annoying.
I have switched several different N75 valves, I am running the stock one now, I've switched different DV's, i have switched my spark plugs and even put at APR turbo inlet pipe and i have checked for boost/vacuum leaks, I have no CEL...all this hasn't resolved my problem.. I don't know what else to do..
I was thinking about switching my MAF to see if it works, but then again if it was my MAF im sure I would have a CEL. I also was thinking about putting my N75 valve backwards even the DV backwards to see if it works?
So basically a couple months ago I picked up a 03 20th and GTI, I love the thing to pieces, recently I've got into drive it and I can watch my temp gauge steadily climb to 90 and stop. (before I go any further, I haven't gotten any overheat warnings or anything like that, I've just noticed my car is really hot all the time and the temp gauge goes to 90 within a minute or so of driving but doesn't go over). heat works fine, I've gone in the engine and tested a few things, tested the fans by jumping the connections, my large fan is dead but the small works fine. to my understanding, the large fan isn't used much unless it's really hot anyway. so I removed it and continued trying to find my problem, I felt the rad after letting the car run for a bit, the top half was hot but the bottom half was cool, took the hoses off and flushed my rad thinking maybe something was clogging it, water ran through fine, so I put it back together, put new coolant and tried again. same thing. so I took it for a rip and came back, obviously, the top hose and the rad were hot, but the bottom one was kinda warm. I looked for answers online but I can't seem to find anything like what I'm dealing with. the water pump seems to be working fine, I'm not sure how much flow is supposed to be coming through the Small hose at the top of the reservoir, But I checked it and it has a steady stream coming out of it. I've worked all the air out of the lines as well. The car isn't overheating and doesn't really pass the 90 mark, fans almost never come on but the small one kicks into low when I turn the AC on. which as far as I'm aware is what's supposed to happen.
The car feels like its running hot, checked everything I can think of. rad is hot on the top half and cools at the bottom, coolant has a steady flow back to the reservoir. no actual overheat warnings, I'm just wondering if these cars run hot normally or if I should be concerned.
OK, maybe I'm just spooking myself, but I've been getting poorer gas mileage than usual as of late, like 4 to 5 mpg less. I used to get 30+ when I took my car to work, but lately I've been getting 25 to 26 mpg. I calculated it out and it seemed less still, though I didn't do a very accurate calculation.
The other day, I felt like my ESP was kicking in early because my tires are getting a bit old and bald, so I turned it off for my drive home. I immediately noticed that I felt like more power was available (though that was probably my mind playing tricks) and my average MPG for the trip shot up to the 28.5 mpg range with some spirited driving.
Where the ESP or ASR has caused lower MPG? I replaced my MAF sensor recently because it had gone bad, or at least I was fairly certain it had, but now I'm not sure. I also have coil-packs due in the next few thousand miles or so as well, but this seems sporadic. I diagnosed the MAF (which the car was getting around 22MPG before the change) by disconnecting it. It shot up to the 30MPG range with it disconnected, but thinking back, my CEL as well as the ESP light came on. I'm wondering if my ECU turned off the ESP with the MAF disconnected and that is what increased my mileage, not the bad MAF...
I just put on some brand new Bilstein shocks/struts with new mounts and some Neuspeed springs. It seems like the rear sits lower than the front. Maybe some polo bushings to bring the front down a bit? No stereo stuff of anything in the trunk..
View 2 RepliesI want to put lower grill fogs in my GLI, but was concerned about them interfering with the intercooler system. I currently have an upgraded SMIC, but was concerned the lower grill fogs would impede a significant airflow to the SMIC.
Additionally, I do plan on going to a FMIC in the near future and wasn't sure if people were able to run the fog lights while still having space for the FMIC piping.
For some reason My car won't boost like it used to in the upper gears. 1st, 2nd and even 3rd I can still boost around 18 but once I go 4th, 5th, 6th my boost get lower and lower to the point the I get only 10psi in 6th gear. The car also seems slower a doesn't spool that fast like it used. i checked most of the hoses, even my intercooler pipes which were leaking before and everything is tight. Could it be my DV which is still stock or should I look someplace else?
View 13 RepliesFirst off i couldn't get the car into reverse to back out of a convenience store and then i let off the clutch to try and pump it again and the car just dies. drove just fine up until i parked. Now when i try to move through gears it sounds like it's shifting but the car doesn't move. The car does have a stronger clutch and unitronic chip if that would have to do with anything.
View 13 RepliesMy friends car just messed up. at a stop sign he heard clanking. then he put it in first to accelerate and the car wouldn't move just rev the rpms like if your on neutral but he can hear clanking around the gearbox or so. what can it be? i told him it cant be his entire tranny or his clutch that something must have came lose. what could it be?
View 17 RepliesI have a 2005 mkiv GLI and my gas gauge, temp gauge, and information display stopped working when the car is running. They work when the car is on auxiliary but not while it's running. The lights all work on the cluster all the time but the needles don't move as soon as the car turns on.
View 3 RepliesRecently purchased an '05 GLI (my second mk4) and it has the stock RCs and Eagle F1 tires. They are good on tread, wear pattern, and pressure, but seem to be making an awful lot of road noise, especially at lower speeds and decelerating to around 20 mph. as I read in one post "it sounds like a semi-truck". When I test drove the car it was still in winter mode and there were no noises or pull and so I do not suspect any mechanical issues.
It does not result in any real vibration that you can see in the wheel, but you feel the buzzing. the steering is straight and true as well with no pulling left or right. IT'S JUST LOUD!! lifted the front end and shook the front wheels. the bearings seem nice and tight with no wiggle. I was going to remove the tires and rotate, or put on the spare to see for a diff, but the BBS tool for the center caps is a POS and I couldn't get them off. So ultimately I'm looking for some vortex advice on this noise, its causes, remedies, and and anything else I should be looking for.
After installing my FK Streetline X Coilovers I noticed my rear driver side was sitting lower and and the wheel had more camber.
View 3 RepliesI've never had this happen before or never heard it. but yesterday for the first time as I was driving I could hear a really tin canny sounding rattle. I'm not sure if it was from the wheel well area or under the steering wheel in the dash. I only noticed it when I was at lower RPMs in second gear. (And its not the typical MKIV rattle sounds)...
View 2 RepliesThe transmission is a Six-speed MQ350 transmission in an MKIV 337 GTI.
I was driving last week and ran over a large snow chunk, heard it hit the underside of my car. A mile down the road my foot is resting on the clutch pedal at a stop light, and the clutch slowly went to the floor. It was still drivable, barely. The clutch came about an inch off the floorboard, but still caught. So i pull into the parking lot ahead of me, and was barely able to move the shifter left to right nor would the shifter go into gear. There were no fluids coming from under the car, nor could i see anything that looked wrong. I turned off, back on again. nothing. I then pulled the clutch pedal up from the floor and it went back to normal. Everything seems normal now, but the shifter seemed a little sticky yesterday from left to right.
I am installing my coilovers on my gli and I have everything installed but the passenger side coilover. I cant even remove the old strut because the damn lower strut mounting bolt is seized and I've been trying for hours to remove it at no avail. I have used pb blaster, my heat gun, and my sweat. I dont have impact tools, just my ratchet..
View 15 RepliesSomeone mentioned a plastic piece that breaks in the seats quite commonly in the Recaros. I got rear ended and after I got it back in getting padding dust under my seat?
View 3 RepliesSo the other day i found a lake on the floor behind the drivers seat. Everywhere else is dry but there. A few days prior I got tapped by a ram enough to crack my rear bumper on the drivers side. I am wondering if the water came in through the crack? Everything is dry though under the spare tire . I know there's vents on the sides behind the bumper, but I don't think I got hit hard enough or at the right angle to bust a seal on the vents. I also blew air through the sunroof drains and they were all clear. Windows were closed and all doors were closed when it rained.
View 8 RepliesI'm new to the board always been into old school air cooled vws but just bought a 20th anniversary GLI Jetta and need to know how to deactivate the seat belt ding ding. The car did not come with an owners manual so can't look it up.
View 8 Replies