GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: All Power Windows And Electronic Systems Stopped Working
Oct 27, 2011
So yesterday I took out the monsoon head unit and replaced it with a kenwood kdc-348u single din, but once the wiring harness is plugged into the stereo all my power windows and everything stops working. What could be the problem, wrong wiring harness?
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For some reason BOTH my sidemarkers stopped working. Would it be a fuse? if so, which fuse would it be? fuse map in fuse box doesn't show sidemarkers.
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My main fan stopped working yesterday, I can't figure out if I need just a new fan or the entire motor assembly. How to diagnose the exact problem....
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My buddys mk4 GLi headlights and signals just stopped working if he holds the stalk in position the brights will come on but that's it. The car is a 2005 GLi with a euro switch, Were going to replace the switch in a little bit, as of now all fuses seem fine.
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So was driving my VW.. AC Was working fine. Then all of sudden nothing but hot air goes through the vents. So.. my question is. What could have caused this? I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to cars and their parts..
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All the sudden i cant lock or unlock my doors with my fob.
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I have a jetta mkiv GLI. My key remote stopped working and it will not unlock/lock, open trunk, or panic button for a while, so ill just lock the door putting the key in the door and turning twice. Now i do the same thing to lock the doors, but now it honk like it used to, until i open and close the driver rear door?
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This car's windows are not working. 3 of the window motors make a running sound when the levers are pressed, but the window doesn't move. Is this an expensive item to fix? Do you think the window is just off the track? Where is the best place to take it to be fixed?
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2005 Jetta Gli 1.8t. It decided to do some funky things on me today. I has been running perfectly fine up until I went out for dinner.
When I came back to start her up. Everything worked except for: Radio, Low Beams (both) Fogs, windshield wipers/fluid, rear defrost button, turn signals (but hazards worked fine) and the fan for my heater.
What was working, oddly enough are the amber lights, tails and brake lights, all other lights including the high beam, but ONLY in the position when the stalk is pulled toward the driver. (Have to hold it to keep the high beams on).
It's not the battery because my car wouldn't have started at all if that was the case. It's not the alternator because I disconnected my battery and the car ran just fine and never died. I checked all the fuses of the things that went out but nothing seemed out of the ordinary and all of them seemed just fine.
Where to look next or what to do. I have no check engine lights, or any lights for that matter so I have nothing to scan.
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I just bought this BMW 1986 735i, and all four power windows stopped working after I drove over a speed bump. I thought maybe it is a fuse, but I do not have the fuse box diagram.
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Yesterday all four of my power windows stopped working in my 99 PA. The radio also has no power. I checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes (under the rear seat and in engine compartment.) Everything checks out... what am I missing?
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The power windows quit working in my 2007 Prius. At least, all except the driver's side. The others won't work either from the driver's panel or from the door switch.
I was going to check the fuses, but can't find one. The manual lists a 15A fuse for power windows and some electronics, which seems OK - in the panel by the e-brake. But it also lists a 30A fuse there, which I can't find. I now need reading glasses and it's up-side-down near the floor.
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Recently my power windows stopped working...sort of. Here's what I mean: If the drivers door is closed none of the windows will go down. However, if I open the drivers door halfway or all the way I can roll up/down all the windows. If the windows are down and the drivers door is closed I can, almost always, roll up the drivers window, however the other windows in the truck will usually not roll up. Open the door halfway and up they go.
A couple of other things I have noticed. When I press the down button for the drivers door window, with the door closed, I can hear the relay, under the dash, kick on and the window will move about a millimeter down then stop. Additionally, the courtesy light on the drivers door comes on while the door is closed. I haven't checked if the other courtesy lights come on at the same time.
Hopefully my explanation is understandable. I would love to solve this issue. Getting tired of opening the door to roll down the windows. Plus when there's a fly in the truck and I'm driving I can't get it out.
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Recently I was driving down the road in my 99 B5 1.8T AUTO and my power windows stopped working from all the interior switches. First thing I did was get out of the car and use the key to roll them down, which worked fine. Here is what I have tried/looked into so far:
- All fuses are fine except #14 which i replaced
- Swapped the master control switch in the drivers door
- Checked the wire harness under driver carpet and the ground wire for frays or breaks
- Checked the CCM connectors and board for anything burnt or damaged
I will also add that the locks work from the door switches and the power mirrors don't work as well.
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I have a friend who has a 2003 Explorer and all his windows stopped working.
I checked all the fuses under dash and hood and found that none of them were shorted, even swapped my window circuit breaker off of my Ex and still could not get them to work. I took a test light to all the power wires in the door and noticed that he wasn't getting positive power and that he had negative to the switches. I ran a jumper wire from the battery and could get the windows to work. I removed the door panel and traced the wire all the way through the rubber boot at the door jam but could not get any juice. The circuit relay has power to it but don't know where else to look!
What else should I look for? Is there another place that he might've lost contact or another fuse/switch somewhere that I didn't see. Looking for a wire diagram for the power windows that would also kinda trace faults.
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All of a sudden, none of my windows roll down and I can't use the automatic door lock switch either. Went to autozone and bought a new fuse but, didn't work. What's the deal?? it's a 1998 Nissan Maxima...
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I've searched the inter tubes, trying to find out if there is a fuse or relay or even circuit breaker that needs replacing. From all I've checked, I can't find a fuse, relay or circuit breaker labeled to control window and door locks.all 4 windows don't work (with exception to front passenger window occasionally goes down but not up.)finally figured i should have come to this fine forum first! (especially after hearing 'car talk' today)some other pages with similar questions had answers referring to fuse #12 or relay F (mine aren't identified that way). I'm heading out to get a test light -- just so i can see if i can test anything...
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2006 XLT F150 Triton 4x4 crew cab. My widows all 4 stopped working I have replace the 30amp breaker in pos#401 and I have replaced. The switch in the drivers door but still nothing.
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I have a moonroof & there were no map light bulbs, so I tried putting them in place but the electric connection there wasn't so good (there is a plastic covered with wires) so the bulbs are in but it doesn't work. What worst is, that now all the interior lights (glove box & rear dome) don't work as well!! nor the power windows & moonroof don't work now (it worked before). I guess that I have touched something or a fuse broke... I don't know what to do...
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My power windows and door lock controls on all doors have stopped working. No blown fuses and the local parts who says that locks and windows don't run on the same relay? I don't have a garage and cant really secure my vehicle?
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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