GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: After Installation Of Intake Getting Codes 16485 / P0101
Mar 25, 2010
I am having an issue after my intake install, it was working fine all day and last night i get a light on the dash bored (looks like the one when you take off the esp) and I get this:
code 16485 Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) Implausible Signal : P0101
Static - No
What could be the cause of this because i ran this intake before no issues I only took it off and put the stock intake back in due to the rain but now since the rain is gone i decided to switch
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Installed Forge Twintake on my GTI, CBFA engine code. Have had it installed for 2 weeks now, it was running funny ever since, idling was weird and every time I shifted I felt it through the clutch. Throttle response and acceleration was fine though. Yesterday driving to work the CEL came on, I scanned it today and got P0101 MAF VAF and got P150A idle speed control. I was thinking about cleaning the MAF sensor to see if that was the problem but it doesn't seem like that would solve the problem of it running weird. Was also considering reinstalling the stock intake and seeing how it ran then and or if the CEL went off.
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How hard it is to install a turbo manifold??
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Was installing led license plate lights and they turned on for a second then shut off, I began trying to switch them around and do whatever I could but still wouldn't light up even put the stock ones in again and they wouldn't work.
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So I dont have the money to but a new intake, I am having problems with water getting into my cold air intake under the car. What i could do or something cheap to buy to prevent this problem??
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Looking to have it installed? I bought it but I haven't installed it yet...
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Okay I just installed a boost gauge in my car and when I cranked it up it said airbag fault and the airbag light is on now.. What it could be?
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I am installing my coilovers on my gli and I have everything installed but the passenger side coilover. I cant even remove the old strut because the damn lower strut mounting bolt is seized and I've been trying for hours to remove it at no avail. I have used pb blaster, my heat gun, and my sweat. I dont have impact tools, just my ratchet..
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Ok, It doesn't start, it tries to but doesn't get there, its not the battery the alternator, the starter or the battery terminals which goes to my second question...for error codes do I just pop them in google to see what they mean or is there a better site??....reason why I'm removing the lip its because its being towed to the mechanic, its at my job's parking lot right now, first time ever my VW leaves me stranded but I guess it happens:
Error codes I got:
p0261
p0267
p0270
p0264
p0445
p0037
p2257
p0010
p0414
p0141B
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For about two months I've been having a backfire problem but only when I get on it. We checked for leaks and nothing . The car had 11 codes and were all short to ground. Mechanic is saying my ecu is going out and I need a new one. Is it possible?
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I am trying to swap my ecu for a chipped one out of an 04 gti 1.8. Both awp engine codes. I programmed the immobilized and the car doesn't start. I am thinking it has the ignition kill feature but the guy who sold it to me doesn't think it does. i was just wondering if the ecu's are compatible even though the part number is different.
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I changed my sparkplugs and coil packs last month. Was getting CEL light but it would go away after a while. I figured out that I had gapped my spark plugs way to small (almost touching) so I took them out two nights ago and regapped/ reseated them.
My car was running fine yesterday, but today when I started my car up, the engine was shaking a lot for about 10 seconds and the CEL was blinking. After 10 seconds the shaking and CEL went away...
It drove fine. I'm just wondering what could be throwing these CEL's and causing the shaking? Plugs are gapped to 0.32
Also, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced almost two weeks ago now. Any chance that could be lending to the problem?
My guess is that one or more cylinders are screwy. I'd rather not bring it into the vw mechanic since I'm tight on cash.
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There ended up being 6 or 7 codes. Originally the first O2 sensor and wire seemed to go bad, I replaced them and it ran well for a couple days and then started running like ass again...Now there are a few codes, none for the 02 sensor, but for over boost issues...Does this mean my n75J valve is causing the problems? Is it possible that my software is just going bad? ...I bought the car somewhat molested and don't quite know the extent of the parts on it, nor the brands( specifically, the software...).
The current codes being thrown:
P0238 mani pres g31 sig to high
P0234 overboost
P0106mani barometric sensor g31
We replaced the manifold pressure sensor, and am not having the issues but they could and probably will come back after 50 or so miles...Previous code also was P1114 02 sensors and we replaced the front sensor. It may be that the software that is on the car is starting to go..
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Got a CEL a couple days ago and had it scanned by the dealer. Threw two codes:
p0068 - throttle position correlation
p0101 - mass or volume air flow circuit range performance intermittent
The dealer thought the MAF was dying or dead. I replaced it with a Bosch one from ECS Tuning this afternoon. I went for a test drive around the block but it seems that the problem persists. The idling seems rough, almost like there is a misfire or something. Perhaps on a related note I am still running the original battery that came with the car. I asked the dealer about the battery when they checked the MAF and they said the voltage was low and they recommended replacing it before winter. Is it possible that the battery is dying and it's throwing these two codes?
The service manager said to drive it a few days to see if the CEL clears itself or have it cleared (they can do it or I can do it via borrowing someone's VCDS). I'm tempted to just go and get another battery tonight and install it and see if that's the problem.
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Not real familiar with this code, given that my check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and they detected some errors and these codes appeared.
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I am getting the following trouble codes:
P0342 cam position sensor A bank 1 Ckt Low Input
P0102 MAF or VAF A Ckt Low Input
The accessory belt moves when I try to start it, but my timing belt stays still, but is kind of tight/very little slack.
It died on the highway, was in gear and it just lost power.
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Cars have been having problems with the clutch sticking to the floor. Bled the brake valve. Seemed to fix the problem, took a 30 min drive following, and clutch to the floor 2x at the end of the drive. Then, my car started to sound like a freaking wrx! BARELY made it home and it will turn over but quickly spud out. checked codes and it missed fire in 3 cylinders and small puddle under the car. I'm stuck and out of ideas other than coils.
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I recently installed the apr turbo compressor inlet hose and eurojet smic on my 20th. I am running apr stg. 1 software on apr diverter valve. I also have 3" ghl turbo back exhaust. The three codes I am getting triggered shortly after the 2 upgrades I mentioned above we're installed. In detail the codes read specific:
-idle air control system: RPM higher than expected
-bank 1 mixture adaptation(add): system too lean
-turbo/super charger: overboost condition
When the car idles it seems to miss every now and then I think cause the fuel mixture. It also does idle higher than it did before (~900rpm) when the cel comes on it seems to fix the missing issue but not idle rpms. I am running the stock ko3s turbo and am soon planning on a Eurosport cold air intake. Am I harming my engine? Can I get the light to stay off?
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