When I hit 32 mph my car beeps once and it displays "32 mph exceeded" and if i go 30 then pick up to 35 it will warn me again and beep, basically every time i pass 32 mph it beeps so its starting to get annoying and i played with the setting but cant seem to figure out how to turn this off?
View 3 RepliesMiddle of May, I went to Boston. On the way there, I started to notice a slight whirring noise that was only present when I gently feathered the gas to maintain highway speed. If I were to apply any more throttle, the noise would go away, and if I were to pull my foot away and allow engine braking, it would also disappear.
So I did my best to finish the trip to and from Boston adjusting my driving to avoid the noise. Once I came home, I researched and thought the noise might have been my wheel bearings (I had just replaced lower control arms, lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods prior to leaving for Boston). I also had a shop install my upper strut mount bearings and bushings simultaneously with the wheel bearings.
Since then, the problem still continues. It has grown louder, but still occurs under the same situations. I've focused more on it and here are the conditions under which it occurs:
1. Car must be warmed up. Starting it up cold and allowing SAI to run then driving, car is fine, no sounds. Usually takes 20-25 mins of driving to get it to start making noise.
2. Car still only makes the noise when the gas is being feathered (ie barely pressing it enough to give it any sort of throttle. It does also make the noise between shifts when reengaging the gear and applying gas, as the throttle pedal passes the point of throttle off to throttle on.
3. I'm hearing more noise now during engine braking than I had been previously. Could be related?
Ok my 2002 337 has 87,600 miles on it and for quite a while now its been making a lot of font end noise, its most noticeable at 25-30 MPH, decelerating or holding a steady speed, it disappears when your accelerating hard, and at high speeds. But the noise is horrible, its like a buffeting
Its been serviced regularly, since the noise I've done, new front brake rotors, new pads, wheel bearings, inner and outer CV boots replaced, CV joint checked. My local mechanic who's done a lot of work for me isn't sure what to think, he said try rotating the tires because it may be tire noice on the road? Im running some generic tires, the brand on the tire says "sunny" but they appear to be a good performance tire, and handle well
Happened first yesterday. The rpm and speed gauges get stuck at the 10 o'clock position. Seems all the lights come on. I can accelerate for a bit but the car just putts and then turns off. After that i try to start the car and nothing. If i take the ground of the battery for 10 min (ecu reset?) the car starts right up but any sooner and it wont start. I have APR stage 1 flash, cat back exhaust, drop in filter, forge hybrid valve, and Boost gauge.
View 4 RepliesIf the car is moving, the transmission feels like it doesn't want to let you shift into first (even with the clutch all the way in) until you've slowed down considerably. it grinds if the clutch is all the way in and i try to put it into 1st at about 30 mph, for example.
I always thought that it was probably a safety feature so you don't try to get into such a steep gear at that speed. i guess I'm just trying to make sure of that, because I've never researched it before. What I'm starting to notice now (or maybe its in my head) is that the trans is being real particular about me having the clutch pushed in all the way _to the floor_, something that it something that it tends to give me a bit more slack with the other gears.
For example shifting 2nd to 3rd, i can usually have the clutch pedal about an inch off the floor and it will still shift. is this a sign of clutch wear? it's got over 100K miles on it of mostly granny shifting.
Title pretty much states it. A while back both my ABS and my ESP light would come on after I reached a speed of 18mph. After some research here I figured it was just a dirty sensor. So I cleaned the front ones and still haven't got around to the rear, but I told my mechanic to scan it. He says I need a new ABS pump which I am hoping, he is wrong. Printout says...
01276-ABS Hydraulic Pump(V64)
008-Implausible Signal - Intermittent
008-Implausible Signal - Intermittent
So I am hoping it is just dirty or unplugged and not the ABS pump.
To say the least, I had a long winter. First I bent two of my RC's with potholes and blasted my power steering rack with some more potholes. So now I have brand new set of rims, a new steering rack and also when i did the steering rack, i threw some new ball joints on. I am still experiencing a "shimmy" in the steering wheel at higher speeds. What would be the next logical step to check out what could be causing this? Maybe control arm bushings?
View 20 RepliesI drive an 05 Gli n my car has been shutting off on me took it for a diagnostic n the code po322 came up engine speed sensor. So my question is. Is their a DIY on replacing the sensor I'm picking it up tomorrow. To be honest I don't even know where the sensor is located...
View 8 RepliesSo I was driving on the HWY in 6th gear cruising at about 60, and I go to speed up and when my RPMS hit about 3k or over it feels like I am pressing in the clutch, like my RPMS are going up but I am hardly gaining any speed.
View 24 RepliesMy 20th Ann. GTI randomly would not go into first or second (they move into place but are just limp there and not catching into the gear) I was told for replacement of new 6-speed transmission and they did not offer any alternatives beside replacing it completely.
I know there is a thread talking about this but I read about the shift fork, or a piece of the shift fork that breaks and this problem fits my exact description. Not much info on what I can do, or at least not specified. What is any cost effective way to get my gears back without completely replacing the transmission? Is there anything I can do to just replace a broken part or are there any alternatives?
I got an 04 GLI ... When I'm driving at about 60 mph, and I apply the brakes lightly, i get a vibration in the steering wheel. it doesn't happen under heavy breaking, just when i press the pedal down lightly to slow down, and there is NO pulsation in the pedal at all during any time.
Some history of the car:
Just did pads and rotors 2 weeks ago,
car has spacers, hub centring.. the problem occurs with out the spacers also.
had an alignment a month ago.
had tires balanced 2 months ago
tires are 2 months old.
I installed a brand new "A line" 007 last night. Now I have ridiculous boost surge (15psi then to 5psi, then holds 11 hard) I did a N75 race valve last year (ECS), so I have my doubts that it is the N75. So what gives? The car wasnt that bad with a blown stock DV compared to this. I have minor mods: CAI, exhaust, Forge TIP, APR stage 1.
View 24 RepliesSo, it's been 8 years with this awesome car. Still enjoying every day. Over the past year or so, I've noticed my engine get gradually louder and louder. By that I mean, the overall engine noise at low RPM. It's a mechanical kind of noise. Clicking, etc. The engine has 101,500 miles on it.
For the past 2 days now, this noise has gotten dramatically louder. I've tried to capture it in the video below. Might have to listen with headphones. The noise is most noticeable at idle and then goes away after about 2000 RPM. You'll see. What this might be? Btw, there is no reduction in the performance of the car.
[URL] ......
I've been having an issue with my 20th lately and haven't been able to figure out what it is. The car has 55k on it and recently (within the last 500-1000 miles) I've noticed a grind/screech/clang almost metallic sound when I get the car above 3500 rpm. At first I though it might have been a drivetrain issue but when sitting in netural it also does it. The car is all stock except for a VF lower mount and R32 short shifter.
View 7 RepliesI just bought a forge 007 and an apr chip. When i installed the DV i ran it in reverse and am getting a fluttering noise.... i'm running the yellow spring which should be right for a chipped car.
View 6 Replieswell what are the chances that all in one week.. I would get my front end hit in the same spot that i just fixed.
get a crack in my windshield.
get a flat tire.
Have the tab that holds the passenger sun visor in place break off.
Have a new "clunking" noise in the front end.
I just pulled my axles, cleaned and regreased the cv's, and replaced all the torn boots with better ones. Now it seems as though the joints make noise when they didn't before. It's kind of a metal scraping sound, at low speed over sudden bumps, when the wheels are turned.
View 1 RepliesSo whenever I put my car in reverse and back up my car makes incredibly loud and messed up noises. What's going on and if this is a major or minor issue? At first it wasn't as loud now it's head turning people at the mall literally stop and stare at me its embarrassing...
View 7 RepliesSo, when i throttle down i get a hissing noise, almost like a very small jet engine. then when i let off the throttle I get the psh psh psh psh noise and not the solid pssshhh noise. What might it be? I was thinking pcv breather, or DV, but i dont want to go just replacing parts. I have the 04 gli 1.8t ....
View 2 RepliesI have a 03 vw jetta gli 24 valve and i would like to change the speakers because 2 are blown and the third one makes bad noise. The problem is that i don't know what kind of speakers to buy.
View 2 RepliesIt sounds real bad while actually driving... some weird ticking noise and It's not a rod or an exhaust leak cause I couldn't find one or any of the shops I brought it to. What this could be? I'm tired of it sounding like a subaru. It has a 3 inch tb exhaust and f4t frankenturbo setup with 415cc software and injectors. I just need the turbo to last for a few more months then I'm going BT..
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