Bought a 04 GLI had the bad engine, had the engine installed sat at the shop for nearly a year. Towed car to my house to finish it and now I am running into their lack of knowledge and fixing their crap. Now the current issue...On the thermostat housing, a nipple that comes off the side has nothing connected and leaking coolant.
View 7 RepliesI replaced my timing belt, tensioner and water pump last weekend because I noticed I was leaking coolant from the water pump. The other day I popped my hood after driving and notice the reservoir bubbling a little bit because it sounded like the coolant was boiling and the line coming into the top of the reservoir felt hotter than normal. I opened the cap slowly and never heard any pressure release. I figured it was air in the line somewhere so I tried to work the air out. It sounded like the air came out and I took it for a drive and I finally heard pressure release after 3 different attempts. I opened the cap later when it was cool and noticed that the coolant was still at the original level.
Then the next day I was driving and came to a stop and noticed white smoke coming out when I gave it gas. It still drove fine though. I pulled over and opened the cap slowly but didn't hear any pressure release. I put in a little bit of radiator sealant and it seemed to do the trick.
The car has never overheated and there's no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. The heat also seems to be working correctly and my fans come.
I have a coolant leak coming from I am assuming the thermostat housing or thermostat. My question is, is there a gasket behind this that I am assuming is bad or is the thermostat bad.
View 6 RepliesI have a 95 skylark 4 cylinder, i have what appears to be a coolant leak from the thermostat housing and i also have coolant mixing with my oil. Can the leak from the housing cause the coolant to mix with the oil? If not what else could be the issue?
View 3 RepliesI just got my 337 a few days ago and I got out today after a short drive and smelled coolant. Immediately thought the worst but luckily I found this hose to be leaking. What hose this is its on the left side just about the throttle.
View 11 RepliesI'm trying to figure where the coolant leak is. Appears to originate on the driver's side front, right near the thermostat housing. Since the engine tilts back the entire drivers side is wet. The thermostat gasket appears to be OK, but it does have a lot of miles on it.
If it's not the thermostat then can coolant leak from the cross over tube. And is the cross over removable without taking off the intake. There appears to be a bolt coming up from underneath on the passenger side.
Also, does coolant flow through this plastic intake. If it does, then the leak could be some where else, if not, then it's probably the thermostat.
My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
So the motor has a new oil pump and pickup and was all cleaned out. Sludge is not the issue here. I'm running the royal purple filter ( the equivalent of mann 950/4) and royal purple 5w30. My heart dropped after the light came on on the first drive. I pulled out over and checked the oil and for leaks and... full with no leak. So I checked the temp and proceeded to drive home. I don't have an oil pressure gauge but I'm getting the bottom of the fill cap with oil so I know it's making it all the way to the top of the motor, and the motor is not loud or sounding starved.
Basically, I wanted a second opinion that it is most likely oil pressure sensor malfunction. Garrett 60 trim, feed and return lines are brand new and sufficient diameter.
Well, driving down the road just like any other day. I go from 1st to 2nd gear. It feels like I missed a shift, no big deal decide to put it in 3rd. Missed 3rd gear...... weird, no big deal through it in 4th and was on my way. Got to a red light, no 1st or 2nd gear. Where 1st and 2nd gear are, it feels like there is nothing there when i tried to shift into gear. If I go into 3rd gear its now 1st gear, 4th gear is 2nd gear.Had a mechanic look at my car, and the linkage and clutch are fine. He feels that something minor broke inside the transmission.
A) What do you think might be broken?
B) How could this happen?
Driving my car like a baby, I am never hard on my clutch. No pre-warning, no bad sounds, and I have never had an issue with my transmission before. I am hoping I do not have to pull my transmission out but it looks like I may not have a choice...
I have a 377 gti 2002 and just the other day i had some hesitation on take off. it sounded like the engine was cutting the fuel, at the time i had an o2 sensor code so i replaced the o2 and got new spark plugs while i was at it. it was still hesitating and cutting out so i figured it might be the maf because ive already replaced it once, i cleaned it and still doing the same things. i called my local vw/audi shop (audub) and he said it might be the pcv valve. i checked to see if there was air sucking in through the oil dip stick and the oil cap. its running just fine at idle and it seems that in first and second gear that its hesitating at 1000-2000 rpm and the higher gears are fine. could a leak cause this or is the pcv system bad?
View 7 RepliesI've been having trouble with my rear wiper since forever. Every time i try to use the washer fluid for the rear, it doesn't squirt right and fills up the motorized lock for the trunk and malfunctions the lock for a day or 2 until it drys. I had this same problem with my old 1.8t gti, just in that case i had to have the whole lock replaced due to the damage from the washer fluid (luckily the dealer payed for it).
I was thinking maybe swapping it out for the polo rear wiper on ecs tuning.
So basically a couple months ago I picked up a 03 20th and GTI, I love the thing to pieces, recently I've got into drive it and I can watch my temp gauge steadily climb to 90 and stop. (before I go any further, I haven't gotten any overheat warnings or anything like that, I've just noticed my car is really hot all the time and the temp gauge goes to 90 within a minute or so of driving but doesn't go over). heat works fine, I've gone in the engine and tested a few things, tested the fans by jumping the connections, my large fan is dead but the small works fine. to my understanding, the large fan isn't used much unless it's really hot anyway. so I removed it and continued trying to find my problem, I felt the rad after letting the car run for a bit, the top half was hot but the bottom half was cool, took the hoses off and flushed my rad thinking maybe something was clogging it, water ran through fine, so I put it back together, put new coolant and tried again. same thing. so I took it for a rip and came back, obviously, the top hose and the rad were hot, but the bottom one was kinda warm. I looked for answers online but I can't seem to find anything like what I'm dealing with. the water pump seems to be working fine, I'm not sure how much flow is supposed to be coming through the Small hose at the top of the reservoir, But I checked it and it has a steady stream coming out of it. I've worked all the air out of the lines as well. The car isn't overheating and doesn't really pass the 90 mark, fans almost never come on but the small one kicks into low when I turn the AC on. which as far as I'm aware is what's supposed to happen.
The car feels like its running hot, checked everything I can think of. rad is hot on the top half and cools at the bottom, coolant has a steady flow back to the reservoir. no actual overheat warnings, I'm just wondering if these cars run hot normally or if I should be concerned.
I am currently putting the interior of my car back together after a water issue force me to remove everything and have just put the carpet in. While stopping for the night, I noticed that all the overhead lighting doesn't work, the key fob can't lock the car, I can't open the trunk via the button on the door and even if I close all my doors, the car door open light stays on. However, the dash, vents, radio, gauges and headlights work, the car starts, the headlights and tail lights work, and the gas door button works. The ONLY thing I did was remove a #53 block relay that was wired into the rear fogs, since the way the fogs were wired up, they weren't working.
So I removed the relay and wired the fogs directly to the headlight switch. The wiring of the relay was, one wire going to the #9 pin on the headlight switch, one wire going to the 12V source and the last one going to a ground, nothing else. I didn't touch any other wiring or pull any wiring out. What my car is doing now? I was hoping to have it together to go to MIVE's chilifest tomorrow, but this electrical issue makes me uneasy about driving my car over an hour from home without a trusty tow vehicle to rescue me if it goes south.
The car is a 2005.5 GLI (75k mi) w/ EvoTech Stg1 software, GHL stack intake, and an Iridium billet diverter valve.
Well today I was driving and the Malfunction Indicator Light on the dash came on and started blinking. When I stepped on the accelerator, the car felt like it had 1/4 the power and began shaking. The car idles kind of weakly, and feels like it has no power when you step on the gas. Also, when you step on the gas the car will shake. The strength of the shaking depends on how hard I press on the throttle, more throttle = more shaking. There is no shaking when it idles or when I have it cruising, only when accelerating.
I've had the leak for a long time now possibly from when I've gotten it... anyway when I first bought it I drove it a lot, like 8k miles in 6 months. During that time I went through a qt of oil about every week and a half. Now the last 3 months I've been barely driving it due to life changes so I'm barely putting oil in I'll go weeks sometimes of checking the level and it'll be fine. This leak has to relate with how often its driven and maybe hot?
I've had the car up multiple times to try and find the spot all I know is it's behind the engine below the valve cover gasket and above or near the turbo area(I've only owned my first VW this 20th for less then a yr so I'm still learning)
I have a problem today i took off the coolant line, air line, and the fuel line and when i put them back on i put the coolant line into the air line accidentally and the air line in the coolant . i started the car thinking it was normal. the car started and then when i started to back up the car turned off so i knew i screwed up the lines then i found online the right way how the lines should go put them the right way and the car just cranks in doesn't start up.
View 3 RepliesI can't see where it's coming from but it's leaking onto my TIP. it's not a lot though.
View 4 RepliesWell I first had a slow leak, which was happening because I had a bad O-ring for my coolant temperature sensor. I replaced the O-ring, and I also replaced the whole coolant flange for good measure. After that I added some coolant, and started her up. And before i knew it, there was a pool of coolant under my car. It seems like the hose coming downward from the flange is swelling up (look at the pictures). But I have no clue what this hose is, or what it does.
View 10 RepliesSo I was replacing thermostat in 98 lumina 3.1 and use the wrong bolt for the upper bolt on the housing and it broke where it mounts onto the block. Now the housing won't seal over thermostat and just spread coolant everywhere... Is there an easier and less expensive way of fixing or do I have to get a whole new motor?
View 5 RepliesMy explorer with 4.0 sohc is starting to leak fluid out of the thermostat housing. How hard is this to do and what can I expect in cost to do it myself. I dont drive this explorer but about 2 miles each way to work as I live on a military post. I have been putting it off ( just keep adding coolant and water) every couple of days. I have noticed that the engine temp doesnt not get up to half way like it use too. Maybe 1/4 of the way on the gauge now. I have always flushed coolant system very two years. It is starting to get some rush in the overflow bottle now too. Other then that she runs good and no other engine issues. She does have a 136k on her.
View 7 Repliesits cracked and its leaking i was tld its 210 dollars to replace it... what is the part number for this??? or is this not that bad of a deal?
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