I have a 2003 20th anniversary edition GTI. Yesterday I noticed my car started shaking when I was driving on the highway. The only thing I can think of that I did was run into a snow bank during the snowstorm. What is causing my car to shake?
View 2 RepliesSo I was driving on the HWY in 6th gear cruising at about 60, and I go to speed up and when my RPMS hit about 3k or over it feels like I am pressing in the clutch, like my RPMS are going up but I am hardly gaining any speed.
View 24 Replies03 v6, xle. 125,000 or so.
On highway, mostly notice with cruise on, what seems like engine shake starts. Almost like engine is moving around a bit. There is a noticeable "jump" sometimes, when going up or down hill and the cruise wants to adjust speed.
I have an 03 20th ani gti golf... It has been stuttering when idling and driving... Almost sounds like a subaru... I have changed the plugs/coilpacks but still does the same thing... My check engine light comes on and blinks.. Got the codes ran and it came up... Cylinder 2 misfire and catalytic convertor threshold....
View 7 RepliesWhen I'm driving and the clutch is slipping a bit ( i.e. starting from a stop) I feel very noticeable vibration. Is that a sign the clutch is starting to do? I feel like a year ago it was smoother action, and I barely had to give it gas to get started ( could start with clutch action mostly).
View 9 RepliesWhenever I go over about 50 MPH it starts shaking like the dickens. We have a lot of snow around so I'm thinking i just have messed up alignment from hitting snow chunks but who knows. [URL] ....
View 6 RepliesMy 20th Gti is shaking. So when I accelerate to about 80mph and then let off the gas it the front end will start shaking and once I tap on the gas a little it will stop. Why is it doing this and what is it that has gone bad?
View 16 RepliesI don't think I am in the right forum but I don't know where to post it. I have a 20th and when the car idles it shakes a little but when I take off the car rumbles alot the only way not to make it rumble is rev it to 1500rpm what can it be causing this?? I have a catback tt exhaust can it cause it to do it?
View 1 RepliesI am currently running 8mm ECS spacers in the front and 17.5mm ECS spacers in the rear. My Summer set up is still stock BBS RC's, but my winter wheels are Lenso's.
Last winter was my first winter running with the Lenso's and had no issues. This past weekend I swapped out the BBS's for the Lenso's, and now I am feeling vibration above 60MPH. I felt no vibration with the BBS's. I just took them in to get balanced (maybe a weight fell off-idk), and they were within 1/4 of 100% balanced. They then thought it may be the spacers I'm running so they cleaned them up, but said that it didn't work.
My alignment is also spot on-so that's not an issue either. I am at a loss as to what would make me feel that vibration after just changing out the wheels.
My 1.8t gli is giving me this issue, when braking (specially hard) my steering wheel shakes side to side, my rotors got changed less than 20,000 miles ago (all of them) and they seem fine right now.
Could this be my Tie Rod ends? The car has 110,000 miles on it, and i know some bushings if not all need to be changed, which I am gonna be installing when i put on the Raxles i just got.
I have a 2004 gli and there r no lights an no codes but when I am driving the car shakes a little almost if the motor was bogging down a little. its nothing to major just a slight back and forth movement. I cant seem to figure out the problem it seems to go away during acceleration. Also one other thing is it seems to do it worse when its warmer!
View 1 RepliesI have a 05 gli w/ 65k miles. I got new plugs gaped correctly and new coils. When I'm idling at 7-800rpm my steering wheel shakes a little and when I flip on the ac it's even more noticeable. So much the rear view mirror shakes just a tad. What do yall think it could be cause it's not that bad but I'm anal about my cars and I want it to be perfect.
View 11 RepliesI was driving the other day and accelerated in 5th and the car stuttered before finally going- I got the flashing CEL. I figured that the car was misfiring and that a coilpack change was the culprit. All my coilpacks are fine and the sparkplugs look good as well. CEL hasn't come back, but the car just feels like it doesn't want to go right away when if i give it some gas when I'm going about 55-65 MPH.
Other guesses would be there is a fuel cut somewhere and that may be causing it?
So over the past couple months when driving on the highway I would notice that sometimes my car would lose all power and slowly coast to a stop, but then the power comes back on and I'm off after a few seconds. It happened again today and I notice when I do hit the gas when it decides not to accelerate my boost gauge shows that there is vacuum building up in the engine. It just doesn't make sense to me. Would my car be getting thrown into a limp mode? Or is it something to do with fueling?
View 4 Replies50k Miles on my clutch. Was driving a couple weeks ago on the highway and clutch stuck to the floor. At first I thought it was my Slave cylinder. Got the trans out this weekend to find the mess (below) inside my bell housing. Obviously need a new clutch now and will still replace the slave while I am in there.
Cars setup is around 375ish whp. I know I could spend 1300 bucks and call it a day for a clutch master or south bend but was seeing if there is a cheaper alternative.
Also If I were to buy an OEM clutch or an upgraded one that was not rated for up to 400~whp would it drive and pull the same as a fully upgraded one just not last as long?
6 Speed ...
Having issues with turning over but no start, sometimes takes up to five turns to start up, and hesitation on hwy in 6th gear. Fuel problem im pretty sure.
View 1 RepliesSo driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.
About three nights ago I had a complete power loss on the highway and the car began to bog down alot under throttle (and surge at points as well although with no boost). It also idled very rough/erratically. When I unplugged the MAF it cleared up right away; Idle was smooth and it ran without hiccup but in safe/limp mode so very tame (again, without boost really, gauge shows it stays in Vacuum and never passes "0" or goes into boost).
I scanned it this evening and got 2 misfire codes and a MAF code, along with a code related to traction control which I noticed had activated as a result of this and could not be turned on (by activated, I mean the light came on, disengaging T/C). These things make me think it is MAF related, especially because I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I do not think that is what it could be in relation to the misfire codes (which I think may be old and needed to be cleared).
Fast forward to last night: I can pretty confidently say my MAF is not the problem and I think I saved an unnecessary expenditure. I was able to meet a friend with a 337 as well and his MAF did not change my car at all and my MAF ran fine in his car so I think my problems are something else. Although with the MAF plugged in my car runs very poor and unplugged it clears up and just runs "limp" (no boost and slow but stable) from what I tested this evening the MAF unit seems to not be the issue.
I think there must be a vacuum leak of some sort between the MAF and the engine which allows more air in than the MAF signals when plugged in which causes the issue. Also, I know a common thing to think is "coilpacks" but I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I would imagine that would eliminate those from being the failure they tend to normally be. Agreed ??
I got my 2005 jetta gli used with about 41000 mi on it. Ever since i've had it, when i accelerate on the highway at 50 mph or faster, the car almost feels bouncy throughout, what that is.
View 8 RepliesI have 2011 Tiguan SE 4motion,that i purchased 5 months ago just got out of warranty
First problem i had with this car was the failed Ignition coil on one cylinder one month ago,suddenly while driving on the high way the car was shaking if goes above 40 MPH and check engine light came on, I continued to drive slowly till i made it home , and changed coil the next day and everything was fine for few weeks , i was planning on changing the rest of the coils and spark plugs.
Recently after leaving work i tried to start the car and it won't start it made weird loud crank noise but no start, check engine light came on , showed multiple cylinder mis fire code and random mis fire code
I changed remaining coils and spark plugs just to see if it will fix the problem ,it wouldn't start. Towed it to my regular mechanic after few failed attempt to start it he checks compression and was non on any cylinder, I researched online and came across common complaints of Timing chain Tensioner Failures and i thought it has to be same problem with my car.
Mechanic removed the timing chain cover to see if chain slipped or tensioner failed and they were fine and everything is in place with no timing fault, I checked the tensioner myself yesterday with him and still working fine. Now we deciding on opening the engine and check for damage Or just Replacing with used engine.
Having situation of engine failure WITHOUT having the timing chain fail due to tensioner failure? The misfires that occurred 1 month earlier could have caused enough damage that went catastrophic a month later? I had oil changed by mechanic with recommended Mobil one oil for VW 4 months ago...
Middle of May, I went to Boston. On the way there, I started to notice a slight whirring noise that was only present when I gently feathered the gas to maintain highway speed. If I were to apply any more throttle, the noise would go away, and if I were to pull my foot away and allow engine braking, it would also disappear.
So I did my best to finish the trip to and from Boston adjusting my driving to avoid the noise. Once I came home, I researched and thought the noise might have been my wheel bearings (I had just replaced lower control arms, lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods prior to leaving for Boston). I also had a shop install my upper strut mount bearings and bushings simultaneously with the wheel bearings.
Since then, the problem still continues. It has grown louder, but still occurs under the same situations. I've focused more on it and here are the conditions under which it occurs:
1. Car must be warmed up. Starting it up cold and allowing SAI to run then driving, car is fine, no sounds. Usually takes 20-25 mins of driving to get it to start making noise.
2. Car still only makes the noise when the gas is being feathered (ie barely pressing it enough to give it any sort of throttle. It does also make the noise between shifts when reengaging the gear and applying gas, as the throttle pedal passes the point of throttle off to throttle on.
3. I'm hearing more noise now during engine braking than I had been previously. Could be related?