GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 2003 - MAF Sensor Continues To Trigger Check Engine Light
Sep 30, 2012
When I bought my 2003 20th it was completely stock, except for a pos blow off valve had been installed, and get this, the diverter valve was left on, and just capped off. I installed a no name CAI, and the check engine light came on, i had it turned off and when i start the car, or rev the engine high at all, triggers again.
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If you don't have a high flow cat on, will it throw ur check engine light on, saying its the rear 02 sensor....
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I chipped my car with unitronics stage 2 3 weeks ago. 300 mile later the check engine came on. 42 DD down 3" to 2.5 cb no DV yet.
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So recently my check engine and abs light came on. I went to go get it checked out and it was the MAF censor. And here recently i noticed the airbag light came on. I replaced the MAF today, and the abs went away but check engine is still on due to the downpipe. And the airbag light is also on. Why it might have came on?
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So I was on my way to work and i noticed my check engine came on. i get out of work and its still there. i go to the movies to watch friday the 13th (ok movie, worth watching in my opinion)...still on. i drive to my friends crib after to chill...still on.
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So I just recently bought a 20th anniversary GTI with 80k miles on it that I'm really happy with. However, the guy who sold it to me, neglected to put gas in the car. I know that the car is suggested to take Premium, however I put Plus gasoline in it. About 20 minutes of driving later, my Check Engine Light came on, and I'm a bit worried as to what the reason for this might be. What the issue might be. I checked the gas cap numerous times, as I know that many people neglect to screw it on correctly, so I doubt that would be the problem.
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I seem to have a big loss of power. I just got my 337 last week and it was faster than expected with the GIAC chip. I drove down to mass in the rain last weekend and now it seems slow as hell. My question is does a bad coil pack cause a check engine light to go on? My car's check engine light is NOT on and I do have a boost gauge, and it seems to be boosting normal so I imagine it is not a boost leak. If it were misfiring I imagine I would really know it, but I've never had a misfire on a turbo car so I am not sure how bad it is affected.
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I have a 337 and the check engine light came on a couple months ago and i got the clutch safety switch replaced. but I forgot to take the light back off with my friends snap on tool. the car runs fine now but another friend with a TDI jetta said something about a master ecu reset? something like turn the key in the on position then hold the gas pedal for like 15 secs? I tried it but nothing happened. I just want the light to go away...
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I have a 2003 20th ann. GTI, it shut off on me on my way to work. It would turn on but only for a sec and turn back off. I turned it on and tried to move it over out the way of traffic and wouldnt move and turn back off. Got the check engine light checked and the codes P1007 which is coolant temp sensor and P0011 which is camshaft sensor. I replaced both and problem not solved car will start but wont go and turns back off, black smoke and a strong smell of gas comes out the exhaust.
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I have a 20th anni GTI. I was driving down the road about a week ago going about 50 in 5th gear. all of a sudden when i go to give it gas my car starts lagging and the check engine light starts flashing on and off. I used a check engine light tester to figure out the possible problems and found that cylinder 2 misfired.
Spark plugs could have been the problem so i replace them. Nothing changed. so then i thought it could be one of the coils so i switch 1 and 2 aroud to see if there was a misfire on 1 now. still cylinder 2 misfired. I am starting to thnk it may be my catalytic converter. There's a funny spell coming from my exhaust. Like fire crackers or rotten eggs maybe.
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So i start my car up drive about fifty feet and my temp gauge shoots all the way up, check engine light comes on and coolant light keeps going off......What is wrong with my car?
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So I go and get my oil change on Sunday at a local place. Oil change is done and later that evening my engine light comes on (solid orange). I call the local VW service and they say its nothing to worry about. "Maybe a little moisture got inside my gas tank." The service manager said to continue to drive it like nothing is wrong and it should go off. Here I am two days later and its still on. So should I be worried?
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So yesterday i was driving fine and all of the sudden the car started jolting like it was going to stall and the check engine light came on. I pulled over popped the hood to see if there was anything i could see and got back in and took off no problem and the light went off. I starting pushing it and accelerating it to see if it would come back on and it didnt. Today it started doing the same thing but this time the light stays on and every time i change gears it does that jolting like its going to stall.
Its a 2004 gli 6 speed gli 1.8t ....
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I have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.
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The past few days ive been having some boost problems. Boost will surge to 15psi then drop to 0psi and continues on acceleration. Coming from work today I was unable to get past 5psi accelerating
Then on WOT the boost would spike to 23psi then down to zero. Checked all hoses i could see and reach to make sure they were connected.
Mods:
Forge 007 DV
ECS Race N75 Valve
Turboback Exhaust
Chipped
Short Ram Intake
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So the motor has a new oil pump and pickup and was all cleaned out. Sludge is not the issue here. I'm running the royal purple filter ( the equivalent of mann 950/4) and royal purple 5w30. My heart dropped after the light came on on the first drive. I pulled out over and checked the oil and for leaks and... full with no leak. So I checked the temp and proceeded to drive home. I don't have an oil pressure gauge but I'm getting the bottom of the fill cap with oil so I know it's making it all the way to the top of the motor, and the motor is not loud or sounding starved.
Basically, I wanted a second opinion that it is most likely oil pressure sensor malfunction. Garrett 60 trim, feed and return lines are brand new and sufficient diameter.
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My brake pad sensor light came on today. How long do I have until they start to ruin the rotors?
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I have an '05 GLI @ 45,000/mi. The sensor light came on for my brake pads about a week ago. So obviously I need new brake pads (front & rear? not sure...I know the sensor is only for the front). But I was also wondering if I need to replace the rotors.
I understand there is a measurement for the OEM rotors to tell when they need to be replaced. There is a little lip on the them, more so on the front than back. And they feel slightly grooved.
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I drive an 05 Gli n my car has been shutting off on me took it for a diagnostic n the code po322 came up engine speed sensor. So my question is. Is their a DIY on replacing the sensor I'm picking it up tomorrow. To be honest I don't even know where the sensor is located...
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I have a light flickering on and off that claims the door is open, after a few months and a lot of testing I have come to the assumption that the sensor in my trunk hatch is sending a relay to the computer as if the door is open.... I can't find a latch sensor or relay for this thing, just the striker plate and the wiring that unlocks the switch as well as the wiring for the rear wiper blade....
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So a week ago i needed to change my mass air sensor due to every time it was raining it would almost stale and my check engine light was on. Now this week both my traction and engine lights are on always. When i start my car u. The morning it turns over but almost dies due to The rpms so low basically it's almost stalling if i give it gas usually it kicks it over then stays on no problem. ALSO if i reev high i hear a little grind or moan noise as well.
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