GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 2003 - How To Reprogram Used ECM
Sep 25, 2009
But we have an 03 Golf GTI. And the ECM went bad. So we got a new (used) one. But the problem was that it wouldn't communicate with the VAGcom. Replaced the ECM now it communicates. But our problem is the anti-theft code. I am not sure of the secret "code" the dealer is supposed to give you. It wasn't supplied to us. Looking for info on reprogramming this part of the immobilizer?
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An '03 GTI 20th AE with an airbag light on. Took it to dealer this morning and they told me it was the driver's side seat belt sensor..
1) DIY for opening up the seatbelt clip to take a look?
2) Will having the airbag light on disable all airbags from firing in case of an accident?
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So, for about two weeks now, my engine has been running hot. I have a 2003 Volkswagen Jetta VR6, the cat converter and the MAF Sensor have both been replaced w/in the past year. Oh yeah, also replaced my thermostat within the past 2 years. Trying to trouble shoot the problem. I had the radiator flushed the other day. No engine light is currently on. It doesn't happen to me in the morning (due to the cold ass weather) but towards the end of my stretch home from work (all interstate) the temp gauge goes past the 190 degree mark. Doesn't reach the red, however its still too hot for comfort.
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I have probably had problems with my headlights and brake lights for like the longest time. I swear I change out more bulbs more than anybody I know. When one head light goes out I switch it out, only for another to go out.
Recently both head lights go out back to back so I decided to wait to change them out. And im sure my high beams are out also since i used those when i drive at night which isnt to often. I still haven't changed them out, because I dont want to spend more money on bulbs only for them to go out again.
I've probably had this problem since ive had this car. I was wondering what I should do or what i could look into to try and fix the problem. I have a 2003 VW GTI 20th Anni.
Ive had it since birth so I would like to get this problem resolved. Haven't had any major problems except for a few electrical here and there. And ive kept it serviced up to date.
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I parked the car yesterday and everything was working fine. I go out this morning to go to work and i cannot get the car to go into reverse. I put it in neutral and attempted to push it out of my parking spot, but when I took my foot off the clutch, it stalled like it was still in gear even though the stick was in the neutral position. While still in the neutral position, i can still move forward as if it were in first. When i put it in reverse and attempt to move, i get no movement. I can get it to move forward, but it refuses to go into reverse. I have no diagnostic lights illuminated and the car has no issues running or starting.
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I have a 2003 20th anniversary edition GTI. Yesterday I noticed my car started shaking when I was driving on the highway. The only thing I can think of that I did was run into a snow bank during the snowstorm. What is causing my car to shake?
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2003 Jetta Gli seems to have a very small coolant leak. The leak is small enough that I don't even notice a puddle on the ground the light on the dash told me it was low. It is the Vr6 motor. Also I don't know if this is the right forum for my car the title says 2004.5 Gli mine's an 03. If this is a big deal just let me know and I'll delete this post and go else where.
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I have a 2003 20th anniversary edition and when i lock the car with the remote it sometimes does the alarm honk and sometimes doesn't. when it does honk after locking it, about a minute or so later the alarm goes off. but when it doesn't honk after locking it with the remote i am fine, nothing happens and the car is locked.
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03 20th anni.... MFing light bulbs are driving me crazy.
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I have an 03 20th ani gti golf... It has been stuttering when idling and driving... Almost sounds like a subaru... I have changed the plugs/coilpacks but still does the same thing... My check engine light comes on and blinks.. Got the codes ran and it came up... Cylinder 2 misfire and catalytic convertor threshold....
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I have a 2003 AE and my keyless entry doesn't work. I have tried all the instructions that i can find on the internet and my manual. I replaced the key in my fob and had a locksmith check and its sending the 315hz signal just like it should. before i take it to the dealer is there anything else i can do? is it my car and how and what do i need to check? what part of the car accepts the signal?
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When I'm driving and the clutch is slipping a bit ( i.e. starting from a stop) I feel very noticeable vibration. Is that a sign the clutch is starting to do? I feel like a year ago it was smoother action, and I barely had to give it gas to get started ( could start with clutch action mostly).
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My climate control panel switch only works in 4. How do I remove the panel?
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My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
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This is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
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When I bought my 2003 20th it was completely stock, except for a pos blow off valve had been installed, and get this, the diverter valve was left on, and just capped off. I installed a no name CAI, and the check engine light came on, i had it turned off and when i start the car, or rev the engine high at all, triggers again.
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While car was in service they found the key defective (the panic button did not work) so they reprogrammed a new key, now the key I have at home no longer works, is there a way with VAG-COM or VAD to reprogram the 2 key remotes myself or I have to bring the car to the dealer?
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I have a 2008 Infiniti G35x with a push button start. The dealer recently replaced my key fob under warranty but now wants to charge me (about 1/2 hr labor) to reset the 2nd key fob, which I did not think to bring with me when the last service was performed, and which now does not work since the key fob was reprogrammed.
Can I fix this myself? Or is this something the dealer needs to do? I have seen many references to reprogramming Nissan key fobs but all start with "insert the key 7 times" and I don't have a key.
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I've got a strange problem with the keyfobs on my 2006 Camry. I tried replacing the batteries in both keyfobs and reprogramming them, but they still will not unlock the door. I suspect there is an issue with some computer part in the car that is preventing it from working. This was my sequence of events:
1. The key fob stopped working, so I replaced the battery. No luck.
2. Found the spare fob, didn't work either so I replaced that battery too. Still didn't work.
3. Reprogrammed both remotes using the steps (pasted below for readability). The programming was successful because the door locks cycled after adding each remote to the ecu on step 13.
However, after exiting the vehicle the locks still weren't working.
The steps I followed to reprogram the key fob:
1. Begin with the key out of the ignition.
2. OPEN and UNLOCK the DRIVER'S side door. CLOSE all other doors including the trunk.
3. Within 5 seconds INSERT the key into the ignition and PULL it out TWICE.
4. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
5. Insert key INTO the ignition then REMOVE it.
6. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
7. Insert the key INTO the ignition and LEAVE it in ignition.
8. CLOSE the DRIVER's side door.
9. Switch the ignition to ON then OFF.
10. REMOVE the key from ignition.
11. The door locks will now cycle to confirm the vehicle has successfully entered programming mode.
12. PUSH and HOLD the LOCK and UNLOCK button for 1.5 seconds on the first remote being programmed. As soon as you let go PUSH the LOCK button and HOLD it for 2 seconds.
13. The door locks will cycle to confirm successful programming of the remote. If you have any additional remotes to program repeat step 12 if you have no additional remotes proceed to step 14.
14. OPEN the DRIVER'S side door. Programming is now complete. [URL].................
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I want a 20th AE & have seen pics that say ESP on a button next to the hazard & others say ASR. I know that their was one option for the car: ESP. So what's ASR? Is one better than the other? Is it the same? I've heard that the ESP sucks for autocross. Is this true?
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I was driving at about 60mph in 4th gear and knocked it into 2nd and the rpm's hit the max and the car shut off and I have not been able to get it started. I have compression, fuel, and spark . I've checked oil and don't have any coolant in and nor did I have any oil in my coolant. When I try to start it it try's to start but won't turn over so .
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