GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 2002 - Gear Selector Broken Down Under The Boot
May 12, 2016
I have a 2002 337. My gear selector has broke down under the boot.
Can I replace this part? Where can I get one? How do I get the old one out?
I have a 2002 337. My gear selector has broke down under the boot.
Can I replace this part? Where can I get one? How do I get the old one out?
My 20th Ann. GTI randomly would not go into first or second (they move into place but are just limp there and not catching into the gear) I was told for replacement of new 6-speed transmission and they did not offer any alternatives beside replacing it completely.
I know there is a thread talking about this but I read about the shift fork, or a piece of the shift fork that breaks and this problem fits my exact description. Not much info on what I can do, or at least not specified. What is any cost effective way to get my gears back without completely replacing the transmission? Is there anything I can do to just replace a broken part or are there any alternatives?
i have a 2002 automatic gti , now car was running gr8 , then poof out of the blue, car started vibrating, yeah , like am on a big vibrator, and only when its on gear D,4,3 or 2 its vibrates , if i place on P or N vibration stops.
and keep in mind it only vibrates on speeds of 10 miles ,20 miles up to ~50 miles speed , if i give it gas,the vibration stops , i slow down on the gas , and the vibration is back , and whenever i stop at a red light , car starts to present minor chocks and viberation.
Trying to do new boot kit on inner cv joint. I have the ball and cage type inner joint. The joint cap comes off really easy (and a new one comes in the boot kit). The boot cover doesn't come off so easy (and there is no replacement in the boot kit). Bentley's and pretty much every other source of info says to carefully drive off the boot cover to remove cage. But they all pretty much gloss over how to do this carefully. I've hit it a couple of times with a screwdriver blade and hammer, but it's not budging. Trying not to hit it too hard.
View 6 RepliesSo the long story short, i bought a JB 20th with 36k miles on it, lowered on Neuspeed Race Springs and HD Koni Struts. When bought, both inner CV boots were torn on the car. I ordered OEM CV boot repair kits for all four joints (made by Rein OEM manufacturer) and rebuild the axles completely.
I got the car up in the air today and the drivers side inner CV boot is already torn, after only a few hundred miles (if that many).
From what i understand, it is a common problem on the O2M 1.8T setups after lowering? Is there a solution?
I searched around, but it is still not clear what is the source of it, even though i found plenty of threads that state that its a common problem.
Upon inspection, the geometry of the axle or the angle at which it operates when the car is on the ground does not look that bad, it simply does not make sense.
I know this has been covered before and I did search but got no where. It's covered in the FAQ sticky but the link is no good. Where can I get an axle assembly that's not going to cost me 550 bones like on ECS?
View 14 Replies2002 GTi 337 not shifting out of 1st until is warmed up for 20 min. Then shifts fine. I've already attempted to add the "liquid gold" G-052-990-A2 ATF fluid from VW at $35qt. I put in about 200ML to no change, then another 200ML to no change. So from reading other posts in VWvortex I've seen many folks with the Jetta have had very similar symptoms. They are installing a new (Solenoid valve N92 (green) to fix this issue. Many of them are even using over the counter synthetic ATF. Before I dig in, just wanted to know what folks with the GTi 337 think about this? Am I dealing with basically the same transmission?
View 2 RepliesJust tore through my second driver side outer boot it's frustrating. I'm thinking about buying an axle but are the boots not going to rip on them. Thing is I don't really get why the are ripping since I'm not super low or anything I know people that are lower and haven't had any issues
I put this new OEM axle in just a couple months ago. Could my Coilover be sitting to low in the strut housing and rubbing on the boot or what. I don't know if that is the mechanical terms but I did my best but how would I go about fixing this.
When I was looking around for the axle last time and I tried to go through smaller shops but none of the axles they had matched up, so I had to go to the dealership and my wallet took a beating. This time thinking about the cv boot kit for urotuning.
I have an '02 337 GTI, Chipped but the previous owner don't know what chip is installed
Anyways, lately if I'm just cruising around the city in 5th, or on the highway, the engine will shut off completely. Electrical still on, battery light and all that jazz does not come on unless the RPMs go all the way down, then I have to actually start the car up again. Takes alot longer to crank afterwards.
Sometimes I will be driving and it happens, but I keep my foot down on the throttle, and just wait and engine will kick back in hard as hell!
My Question is, I have a 20th and I was wondering how to unclip the ring that's at the base of the shifter to get to the shift knob and boot. I'm sure its really easy but, I've been messing around with it and it seems pretty solid. I just don't want to break any tabs or anything. Is there a trick to getting this off without breaking the clips on the ring?
My 2 question is, How easy is it to swap out the shift boot? Will a universal shift boot with the elastic bottom work? I'm just wondering cause I have a momo setup that I'd like to swap over.
I was driving today and when attempting to go to fifth gear and sixth gear the shifter went completely loose, but if I returned it to neutral and go back to 1st through 4th I regain feeling of the shifter. Could something within my shifter box be box be broken? I can go into fifth and sixth manually from the shifter tower on the transmission,
View 3 Repliesso i've had my 337 for a couple months now and when i first got it i found 2 broken vacuum hoses that were causing misfires. once i got those replaced my CEL went off and seemed to be running fine other than from time to time when i started it up my idle would be around 1.2k rpms and then after a couple miles itd settle down to 750-800 rpms but it wasn't rock solid, so obviously there is still something wrong.
on my drive home tonight from work i was in the mood for some spirited driving but when i'd hit the gas i could feel some hesitation through the powerband at wide open throttle. when i got home i turned it off, and started it back up to see if it was idling funny and when it ignited the rpms jumped to almost 2k and immediately fell back down to 1.2k.
My thoughts are its either a vacuum leak again, bad/dirty maf, dirty throttle body, or a boost leak.
Most of the info I could find recommended replacing the entire glove box, and removing the center console to do so. I found a replacement door on ECS tuning's website, but I can't find a DIY on replacing the door/lid only. Any way out on replacing the door only, are the same steps required/removing the center console and taking the entire box out, or can the ECS tuning lid be fitted without as much disassembly?
View 12 Replies(6 speed)... I have faulty reverse lights, my speed sensor is working so I am sure it isn't the fuse, I am guessing this means the switch/sensor is broken. Where it is located, and what the correct part number is?
View 3 RepliesOk, got in a fender bender a few weeks ago. The plastic strips (with the Torx screws) holding the headlight steady, broke from the impact. The headlight itself is fine, no glass was broken, headlight still works, but without those plastic things, it will not, of course, stay still. My question is...would I need to buy a whole new headlight just because the plastic tabs are broken?
View 5 RepliesDriving home from work, I was about 5 minutes from home, got to a light only to not be able to go into 1st. I popped it into 2nd and drove home like that pretty much. Car will let me get into reverse and all other gears.
I can put the shifter towards first but it doesn't fully go in and when I gave it gas it would let me start to creep and then grind a little and pop out.
Heres a pic for your click .....
I have a problem with my 20th anniversary gti. My 1st and 2nd gear won't work. Every other gear works fine, the gears never grind before or any unusually noise. I was pulling off my driveway and they just stop working. Even when the car it's on I can move my shifter to 1st and 2nd without the clutch and nothing happens.
View 3 RepliesSo I get in the car to move my car this morning and I can't get the car into 1st gear. It turns out I can't get the car into reverse, 1st gear, or even 3rd gear. It feels like something is blocking me from even approaching those gears, however the others (2,4,5,&6) seem to be fine.
View 14 RepliesI bought a rebuilt trans from a fellow vortex member a little over a month ago. I had it installed and ever since then when I am getting on it going from second to third it grinds a little bit going into third gear. It only does this when i get on it, but when im just cruising its fine. Could the shift linkage just need aligned? Or what else could it be?
View 5 RepliesAs of two days ago my car ust refused to go into 1st gear. I know that it is a common occurrence with the 02j and shift fork, but 2nd works perfectly, so how could it be that shift fork?
View 16 RepliesSo I've been noticing that my GLi is tough to put into first gear sometimes. I feel almost like I have to jam it in place and hold it there, it doesn't just click in. Could this be the shifter cable ends or the cables themselves? Its weird... its only ever been a problem for 1st gear though.
View 15 Replies