GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 1st And 2nd Gear Shift Fork Broken On 6 Speed Trans
May 21, 2013
My 20th Ann. GTI randomly would not go into first or second (they move into place but are just limp there and not catching into the gear) I was told for replacement of new 6-speed transmission and they did not offer any alternatives beside replacing it completely.
I know there is a thread talking about this but I read about the shift fork, or a piece of the shift fork that breaks and this problem fits my exact description. Not much info on what I can do, or at least not specified. What is any cost effective way to get my gears back without completely replacing the transmission? Is there anything I can do to just replace a broken part or are there any alternatives?
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Looks like the 1-2 shift fork failed on my 337. This is the 2nd time this has happened to my car in under 100,000 miles of driving (I'm the original owner). The last time was about 3 years ago and the shop I was going to found a used transmission for me. Just curious, how common this happens to our 6-speeds.
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Well, like the title says, The trans is stuck in third gear, with no other gears, or neutral or reverse. The car is slightly modified 02 GTI 337. APR Chip, Forge TIP, Full 3" exhaust, Greddy FMIC. I definitely drive the car, and had been beating up on it on the highway for a little on my way in to work, then on the way home, down shifted to pass someone, dropped it third, passed them, went to shift to fourth, Shifter moved, felt like it engaged "a gear" and then then i let off the clutch and it was still in third.
I also noticed that unless, I press the clutch in the, the car stays in this gear, even when the shifter is in neutral. I looked at the linkage, and it appears to be functioning. I did some reading around the Vortex and it seems like this might be a shift fork problem. Also, if the trans will be apart, what items should be upgraded?
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Trying to find if any updates to this problem. Just broke a second fork yesterday- only issue I've seen is to simply replace with the same brass fork.
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I have a 2002 337. My gear selector has broke down under the boot.
Can I replace this part? Where can I get one? How do I get the old one out?
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Yesterday I went to shift from 2nd to 3rd real easy going like 25mph and i couldn't shift out of second. I could wiggle the shifter up and down but barely side to side. Even when moving it up and down it didn't feel like it was engaged in any gear although it was apparent I was stuck in second. Clutch feels normal and still grabs well.
So after driving only in second all the way to my uncles shop I sit at school waiting to see where i can pour more money into the GTI. Its a 20th ae totally stock tranny, I don't know a whole lot about transmissions but possibly the linkage got messed up? I didnt hit any big bumps or anything before it happened.
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I had my shift fork and 1 and 2 gear synchros replaced. Whenever i shift into second it doesnt feel as smooth as first. when i hold the clutch longer and put it into second it feels smoother.
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So the other day was driving my car... And he said reverse quit working. I'm nowhere near my car right now, but it sounds like the same thing that it had done for me a few times. Basically, the gear shift won't go into the slot for reverse, and even first is hard to get into sometimes. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't... My car's a 337 with an O2M transmission.
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Sometimes (most of the time), when I shift from first to second, its either hard to do or it "pops" into gear. There's not like a grinding gear but it sounds like it is hitting something as it goes into gear. If I go 1st to 2nd while stopped, it goes in nice and smooth. It sort of feels like how you can't shift into 1st while you are moving slowly, you have to push on it a bit and then it finally pops in.
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If the car is moving, the transmission feels like it doesn't want to let you shift into first (even with the clutch all the way in) until you've slowed down considerably. it grinds if the clutch is all the way in and i try to put it into 1st at about 30 mph, for example.
I always thought that it was probably a safety feature so you don't try to get into such a steep gear at that speed. i guess I'm just trying to make sure of that, because I've never researched it before. What I'm starting to notice now (or maybe its in my head) is that the trans is being real particular about me having the clutch pushed in all the way _to the floor_, something that it something that it tends to give me a bit more slack with the other gears.
For example shifting 2nd to 3rd, i can usually have the clutch pedal about an inch off the floor and it will still shift. is this a sign of clutch wear? it's got over 100K miles on it of mostly granny shifting.
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It all started after it being cold outside it's hard to shift into second gear when i first start up the car, and then after a couple shifts like that i get a notchy shift. after a while of driving it all disappears.
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I have had my 20th for about a month now and I feel like first gear is so slow. I usually shift around 3,000 rpms. I was wondering if 1st if just slow in these cars or if there's something wrong?
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So I was driving on the HWY in 6th gear cruising at about 60, and I go to speed up and when my RPMS hit about 3k or over it feels like I am pressing in the clutch, like my RPMS are going up but I am hardly gaining any speed.
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I was driving today and when attempting to go to fifth gear and sixth gear the shifter went completely loose, but if I returned it to neutral and go back to 1st through 4th I regain feeling of the shifter. Could something within my shifter box be box be broken? I can go into fifth and sixth manually from the shifter tower on the transmission,
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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so i've had my 337 for a couple months now and when i first got it i found 2 broken vacuum hoses that were causing misfires. once i got those replaced my CEL went off and seemed to be running fine other than from time to time when i started it up my idle would be around 1.2k rpms and then after a couple miles itd settle down to 750-800 rpms but it wasn't rock solid, so obviously there is still something wrong.
on my drive home tonight from work i was in the mood for some spirited driving but when i'd hit the gas i could feel some hesitation through the powerband at wide open throttle. when i got home i turned it off, and started it back up to see if it was idling funny and when it ignited the rpms jumped to almost 2k and immediately fell back down to 1.2k.
My thoughts are its either a vacuum leak again, bad/dirty maf, dirty throttle body, or a boost leak.
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Most of the info I could find recommended replacing the entire glove box, and removing the center console to do so. I found a replacement door on ECS tuning's website, but I can't find a DIY on replacing the door/lid only. Any way out on replacing the door only, are the same steps required/removing the center console and taking the entire box out, or can the ECS tuning lid be fitted without as much disassembly?
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(6 speed)... I have faulty reverse lights, my speed sensor is working so I am sure it isn't the fuse, I am guessing this means the switch/sensor is broken. Where it is located, and what the correct part number is?
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Ok, got in a fender bender a few weeks ago. The plastic strips (with the Torx screws) holding the headlight steady, broke from the impact. The headlight itself is fine, no glass was broken, headlight still works, but without those plastic things, it will not, of course, stay still. My question is...would I need to buy a whole new headlight just because the plastic tabs are broken?
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I have a peculiar problem. When auto crossing and driving the car hard, the lug bolts on only the front driver's side wheel have a tendency to loosen. I torque the bolts to 100 ft-lbs with a torque wrench, so I am confident they are tight before I start driving. The retaining screw holding the rotor in place loosens as well. The wheel has fallen off once already while driving.
I do notice in the transition from accelerating to decelerating (only sometimes) that there is a stuttering from the front driver's side (sounds a little like an out of balance wheel). When it happens, it's often at 55MPH in 5th and at lower speeds in lower gears. The car was leaking a little trans fluid too (.5qt), but I can't tell from where. It has since stopped.
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I need to tear down a zf6 out of a 2000 powerstroke to replace a broken clutch fork and a a worn input shafts. What special tools do I need for this?
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