GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 02 - Slave Cylinder Blew Out
Oct 26, 2008
3 weeks ago my slave cylinder blew out in a big way so I limped it home and into the garage and onto jack stands. After tearing out the gearbox, replacing the clutch and slave, we get the thing all buttoned up and start to bleed the clutch.
We feel as though we were making progress but upon pressing the pedal it stopped halfway to the floor, pressing harder now it would go to the floor slowly, then we start to hear the dripping again coming out of the bell housing. If we push on the pedal now, it goes half way down and stops, if you keep pushing harder you can tell that we are just pushing the fluid out at the slave cylinder and it start dripping hard again.
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Attempting to install the rheostat headlight leveling switch I somehow managed to blow out the entire dash lighting.
The two white wires next to the brown one touched each other and made the dash flicker on. Now it doesn't want to turn on at all. I replaced fuse 11 and 15 and that did not luck.
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This has been happening intermittently for a while now. The car has about 97k on it and I within the last 1000 miles have replace the timing belt, water pump, coolant temp sensor, tensioners, thermostat, and MAF (OEM BOSCH from ECS).
The car was overheating; all the cooling/timing related stuff was changed, no issues for a few weeks. Then it started misfiring and stalling like a madman in cyls 2 and 3. Ran ran if for the code pulled the MAF and sure enough it looks like the PO never cleaned it as there were probably 2mm of buildup on it; as preventative maintenance I went ahead and just replaced it completely.
Now, less than a week after I replaced the MAF the car will make random little popping noises under hard acceleration, and randomly will just completely stall; without showing the battery or check engine lights, similar to how it was stalling right before the MAF went bad. I live three miles from my office and it has happened going to and from every day for the past two weeks.
As far as I know the car is mostly stock (I purchased in in March). However it does have a knockoff BPV of some sort that I think could be causing the issue as the popping noise sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the car. What this might be (if it's not the BPV).
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I changed my sparkplugs and coil packs last month. Was getting CEL light but it would go away after a while. I figured out that I had gapped my spark plugs way to small (almost touching) so I took them out two nights ago and regapped/ reseated them.
My car was running fine yesterday, but today when I started my car up, the engine was shaking a lot for about 10 seconds and the CEL was blinking. After 10 seconds the shaking and CEL went away...
It drove fine. I'm just wondering what could be throwing these CEL's and causing the shaking? Plugs are gapped to 0.32
Also, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced almost two weeks ago now. Any chance that could be lending to the problem?
My guess is that one or more cylinders are screwy. I'd rather not bring it into the vw mechanic since I'm tight on cash.
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Driving the other night I ran drove over a pot hole going about forty pulled up to the stop light and my car starts to make funny noises, barley got the car moving again but managed to get home. I hooked my computer up to it and it says misfire at cylinder 2 and 4.
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I am having this failure in my engine that is making me crazy while I am driving. Yesterday i took my car to a shop to see what was it. my MAF was gone ( I replaced it ) and the failure still going on. The mechanic connected his computer in my car and we went for a ride. HE told me cylinder 1 misfire.
This is what i did.
-change spark-plugs position (failure still)
-change coilpack (failure still)
What can i do ?
-clean injectors
-check for any carbon in valves
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So I have a 2004 Jetta gli 1.8turbo and my CEL came on last night from normal driving, after it came on it still drives the same. I had it scanned for codes and got the p0303 cylinder #3 misfire. wondering what could be the solution for this? I dont think its the coil pack because I had them changed at the dealer from the recall about 2 months ago (anyway to check?) Also I have 97,000 miles on my car and my last oil change I used 0w-40 oil. I know this is probably not the best oil to use at this mileage but I had an extra 5 quarts of them laying around so I decided to use it.
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Car: 03 20th with 6spd 02m trans.
Problem: Go out in the morning esp when really cold, and the clutch pedal drops to the floor. No resistance at all on it as if it's no connected to anything. I pull it back up and pedal starts to build pressure.
I thought slave cylinder searching on here shows a high probability of that being the issue. But the strange thing is the pedal feels like it's sticking at the midway point. Once pressure is built up to normal pedal pressure, if I opush it down and slide my foot off it, it will literally rise fast and the feels like it catches on something and pops to the normal top position.
So my thought here is that the Master cylinder is sticking somewhere inside and causing the pedal to hang up. The weird part though is that once the car is warmed up the problem starts to diminish. But if I drive long enough on the highway (not shifting gears) the clutch seems to start losing pressure all over again.
I have also had to top off the brake fluid reservoir about 3 times in 2 months. What is the root cause here?
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Changed the slave as a start hoping that's what's causing my gf's clutch to mess up every time it warms up. We bleed it and it was working great but spongy. We tried to rebleed with no tools just the pedal pump method and now have absolutely zero pressure unless u Manually push in slave cylinder but then nothing again once u pen the bleeder. We tried a vacuum bleeder too now but that's all we can get our hands on. Is slave in the master? If so how do we get it out.
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My T18 tranny in my 85 F150 will not shift, first instinct was clutch but after tearing the drivetrain out of the truck to check the clutch, there is virtually no wear on it. Slave cylinder is leaking a little bit but the mechanic that took a quick look at it said it was still working. She was shifting fine when i left for school, then when i got off the highway i couldn't shift.
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I'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
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I have an 07 elantra and I was going down the road and my clutch pedal hit the floor. I replaced the slave cylinder. Tried to bleed it and there's no fluid coming out and there is still no pressure on the pedal.
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I have 2012 VW GTI manual with 34k miles and on the freeway I noticed that it's becoming harder and harder to select gears. Few minutes later and by the time I got off the freeway, at the light I couldn't engage 1st gear, nor 2nd, somehow managed the 3rd and brought it home. So if the car is on, I cannot engage gears, if I try the first I can feel some forward motion, like it's trying to engage. If I turn of the car, I can shift through all the gears. I have noticed before this happened that the clutch feel is very soft and spongy and my gear shifter had a lot of loose play. Since I can shift when the car is off, I don't think the problem is worn shifter bearing. Clutch never slipped and I could turn of the car engage 1st or 2nd gear, start it with depressed clutch and go normally so I think the clutch disk is fine.
I am out of 3 year 36k miles, but still have the powertrain warranty. Dealer told me that if it's the pressure plate (most likely) then I would be out of warranty but if it was slave cylinder then I would be covered. I don't want to take a tow truck just for them to tell me that it's definetly the pressure plate, what do you think???
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So I took my tranny off to fix a broken dog bone mount bolt problem. I am now in the process of putting it back on. I raised the tranny bolted all the bolts on had everything almost back together and I went to put my slave cylinder in and the clutch fork won't move so that the slave cylinder can slide in. Did I maybe put the clutch fork in wrong? pretty positive I put it back in as it was and slide the clip through the hole and everything.
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When changing gears my accent grinds as if its not engaging properly? I checked my slave cylinder and the rubber was filled with silver looking fluid could me replacing the S/C fix the issue? I don't think its synchro issue i tried double clutching and still no difference. the grind sounds the exact same as it does when you accidentally release your clutch when changing gears and it hasn't engaged properly. I also changed my manual gear box oil.
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1994 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4X4. My slave cylinder went out so I thought I would put in a spec clutch in while I'm in there. What do I have to pull off to get the 5 speed tranny / transfer case down? I don't want to pull off what I don't have to but I don't want to make it hard either. No Chilton on hand and I did a search on clutch but found no thread for replacement.
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First of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past. My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up.
Also regarding the trans fluid. my le has 80,000 miles on it and I am not sure whether or not the previous owner ever changed it before. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use. All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt-90 or amsoil MTF? I dont want to ruin the trans by putting in the wrong fluid and/or wrong quantity.
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Replaced a bad clutch on a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer. I have been unable to bleed the slave cylinder after replacing both it and the master cylinder. I suspect either the slave cylinder is bad, or I put the incorrect throwout bearing in when the clutch was replaced. The slave cylinder is located inside of the bell housing
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Dad has a 2001 well cared for Mazda B3000 with around 128,000 miles on it. Motor runs fine, so did the tranny up until a couple of weeks ago. The tranny needs a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate. It was drivable up until about four days ago.
My Dad has been working 6-7 days a week and hasn't had time to tear into the tranny. We just drained the old fluid out and put in new when it first started making the noise it makes. We have priced the parts and was just waiting for my Dad to get a weekend off to tackle the problem. But someone at work told my Dad to bleed the slave cylinder before he tore into the tranny, just to see if it would work.
Well we bled the slave cylinder just like you do brakes. But now the clutch has no pressure, it just goes to the floor. We have tried everything. My dad uses the truck to commute back and forth to work. So, I am looking for any tricks on how we can get pressure back in the clutch so he can get to work.
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Can contaminated or old fluid make the clutch slave cylinder not function correctly? Mine won't completely disengage the clutch after sitting for several hours or if its really cold outside. The master is new and has been bled but now the fluid looks black.
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I put a new clutch kit in my 99 f-150 with the 4.6. It came with the clutch disk,pressure plate and throw out bearing. I got the tranny back up in but now my Hydraulic line will not connect into the slave cylinder. Its still the same one that was in it.
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