GMC - Yukon :: 1997 - No Clicks / Groans When Turn The Key
Aug 5, 2013
Battery is fine, turn the key and nothing (no clicks, groans, nada). At first it only did this when the engine was warm, wait 30 min and it would struggle as if the battery was weak but it would start. Had battery tested and it was fine. Now, it will also do this when the engine is cold. If I remove the connections to the starter and reconnect them, it starts right up and works normally hot or cold but at some point, same problem.
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This happened about a year ago when I quickly started and shut it right off. I googled something and I found a sequence, procedure. Something about open door open switch wait etc, it worked started right up. Now I been stuck for 2 days looking and can't find it.All I have is regular metal key. 1997 f150....
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I have a no spark no fuel situation. But my check engine light does not come on and my clock does not work. My turn signals dont work on the dash and the bulbs. But my hazerds work fine. 1997 yukon 5.7L...
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My 98 Yukon won't turnover. There is power to everything, but when I turn the key nothing happens. What's wrong?
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My starter clicks once when i turn the key, yet when i brought it in to have it tested it passed twice. I took one of the spark plugs out and pulled on the belt thinking maybe some antifreeze got in a cylinder and saw the piston moving up and down so i its not seized.
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My 01 Denali is making a slight knock when I turn right or left, and I can feel it just a bit in the steering. To my knowledge nothing has even been replaced. It has 134,000 miles
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I'm having 4WD problems with my Yukon, but the dealer keeps telling me there's nothing wrong with it (this has been going on for 2 winters now), which is either code for, "let's wait until it's extended warranty expires, so we don't have to pay for it," or "the computer says nothing is wrong, so that's all we're going to look at." When it's in 4WD, anytime I make a sharp turn or even turn a corner there's a grinding noise in the front, if I try to back up, it will only go as far as one revolution of the tires then stop (I have to take it out of 4WD to backup), eventually the "Service 4WD" light comes on, but apparently nothing gets recorded on the computer. It has 32,000 miles on it.
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It is a pretty simple problem, but on a few occasions the "clicking" noise that goes along with the turn signal blinking will not stop after turning off the signal. It does not click at the normal cadence. It erratically clicks on and off and will continue to do so for 3-5 minutes. Neither the turn signals nor the indicator lights blink, but the clicking continues in the dash. Turning the signals back on puts the clicking into normal speed, but once the signal is turned off it goes back to crazy speed. It only happens once every couple months, but it is really annoying.
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Got this weird problem that the turn signal switch clicks by itself, randomly. And it gets worse these couple days. So I decide to take it apart to take a look.
Cleaned it up and it works like new now.
Took some photos .....
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I have a 2000 Chevy S10 (4-cylinder, rear wheel drive, the most basic model). A few months ago, the truck wouldn't start. The starter clicked a single time when I turned the key, and the lights on the radio came on, but nothing else happened. Several hours later, I attempted to start the truck again, and it started just fine. I disconnected the battery and found some corrosion on the positive connection (not that bad), and I assumed it was because of a bad connection.
I cleaned it and haven't had any problems since....until last night. The truck once again wouldn't start at a gas station. One click from the starter but nothing else happened. I cleaned out the battery connection again, and the positive terminal was again slightly corroded, but it wasn't that bad. The truck started after I cleaned out the connection and it got me home, but wouldn't start again after I shut it off. Can a bad battery cause repeated corrosion or possibly be the problem? I'm hoping it's just the battery, but I don't want to get a new one until I'm sure...
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As the says I have a 1999 Yukon Denali that the Rear Brake and Turn signal on Drivers side are not working. Also brake light on trailer DOES work but not the turn signal on that side.
I tested the Tail light circuit by plugging it into the passenger side and it works so that rules out that. What wires to test under the dash to test the combo / multi switch?
Also the tail lights or park light do work (both top and middle bulb lights up when the vehicle is running) its just brighter filament does not light up when breaks are pressed or turn signal is on.
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83' Toyota Celica GT with an automatic transmission. The problem that we are having is that we can't get it to turn over. All it wants to do is click at us. As far as we both can tell all cables and wiring harnesses are plugged in and there aren't any loose wires. We've had the alternator and starter checked and they both passed. Also there is a new battery with new terminals installed so that's not going to be the problem. In all of the reading that I've done I keep hearing about a neutral start switch. What is it? And where is it located? I believe I've found a spot where it should be but there isn't anything there. And we've put all of the parts in the car back where they go.
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My accent won't start anymore. When I turn the key, I hear a series of clicks, but the car won't start. When I put the key in the ignition, lights/radio/wipers all work fine. It's a 2008 manual car.
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This car started doing this two weeks ago. At first it would only take 2 or 3 tries, and mostly on days cooler than 65 degrees. Then last week it took 9 times once and 15 times another. Sometimes it starts right up several times in a row. New spark plugs, wires, distributor, rotor, etc. Battery is new and connection is fine. It "clicks" or gives a quick "chug" but won't turn over when it does this. Initially, I didn't notice any noise at all when it first started doing this, but I may have just missed it. Also, it's done it recently on days in the 80's, so temp. might just be coincidence. Most likely to do it after sitting overnight or for more than six hours or so, then, if driven and started several times within the next few hours, usually starts right up, but not always. Very inconsistent. I've been told starter's going out, clutch switch, and fuel filter, but mechanic friend says description doesn't completely add up to any one possibility...
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My car Mk4 Gti has not been starting recently, showing all the symptoms of a dead battery. When I try to start it clicks or sometimes if there's more juice the engine attempts to turn over once or twice.
The weird thing is this started happening in conjunction with my monsoon head unit randomly dying. The radio was dead for a while and my battery would randomly die. Then I fixed the radio by reseating the fuse on the back and the problem went away.
Just today I started my car and everything was fine sitting in my driveway. Then I noticed that the battery light was on, and then my head unit died. I turned my car off to try and fix the radio issue and then it wouldn't start back up. Not sure what the issue is.....
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Just fixed the bad wheel bearing and a bad ball join on the passenger side. Now the only noise left is the clicks sound when I make sharp turn. Regular turns are normal. CV boots are good. What is wrong?
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I have a 2004 f150 fx4. Drove it home and parked it. Next morning wouldn't turn over. When trying to start the starter relay clicks but no noise from starter. Battery light and wrench light are on. I thought maybe battery was low but when I hooked up charger gauge showed good battery. What do I do next? Also there is no "theft" light...at all not even when I first turn key on.
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Sometimes when I try to start it it clicks and I loose all power , but when quick tern key 2,3,4 times it will start but then I need to feather gas till I can get it to idle. This happens first start of the day or cold. I put a new starter in, alternated is two years old .
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My '97 Lesabre is giving me some what of an issue of battery vs alternator. I retired last year and the car isn't getting the use it had when I was working. I replaced the battery last December and have had to force myself to just run the car for the sake of running it, otherwise the new battery would go dead (even in weeks period) and I would have to charge it. Last year we changed insurance companies and to get a reduced rate, they required plug-ins to monitor your driving habits. I suspected that being added and the factory security system being armed might be enough to discharge a new battery.
I began by locking the car w/o arming security and all seemed to be working, along with driving the car more. We just returned home from a one week vacation, the buick resting in the driveway. When I went to start the car, I got the similar "I am dead" clicks and a very pronounced thump. I put the 10amp charger on for three hours and started the car. Engine runs rough, alternator gauge on dash is up and down at idle, can't get a clear screen on the OBD for codes. My question is, could this have been an alternator going bad all along, draining the battery when sitting idle/little use and now the roughness in the engine? I can easily replace the alternator....
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The turn signal lights in my brother's 2000 passat are staying lit when he turns the signals on. They work sometimes, for a few clicks, but then stop working.
1. is it the turn signal relay. It sounds like its in the middle of the dash.
2. how do you get to that relay?
Have to remove the HVAC controls? if so, how the heck do you do it?
[URL] ....
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It's a no crank, no start issue. Battery is only a few months old and tests fine (800CCA,) starter is only 2 months old and we've pulled it out a couple times to have it tested and it's fine. Positive and negative battery cables are also fairly new (last spring.) I've tested pretty much every fuse and relay in the truck that had to do with the starter, etc. My brother has tested the resistance on most of the cables and wires (battery cables, alternator, starter, etc.) Anti-Theft has been tested as well.
Now, here's the odd part. When the key is turned, the starter clicks, but it doesn't turn the engine... at all. About the only thing I haven't tested is to see if the engine is locked up (which would really, really suck.) Now, this is an L76, 6.0L engine. It has D.O.D and variable valve timing, so the issues may be different than the 5.3 or 4.8.
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