GMC - Suburban :: 1996 - Hard Time Braking When Making Sharp Turn
Nov 13, 2014
When turning right, it seems as if my brakes don't want to work. There is somewhat of a grinding sound and what I can only describe as a "shutter" from the pedal. They work great going straight or turning left. I should also mention that the steering locks up when turning sharply, haven't noticed if it's only when turning a certain way. This happens mostly when backing up. Also, the ABS light is on occasionally. I drive a '96 GMC Suburban.
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Every time we make a sharp right or left turn the engine on my van stalls. It has to be completely restarted. In the last year we replaced the trans and steering column and had a major tune-up. So far, no one has been able to diagnose the problem.
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Braking down a hill and a sharp turn (in either direction) around 10mph results in a slight knock (1, not multiple). Is it normal? I have some suspension goodies to put on but i don't want to do that before getting any repairs done if necessary...
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At 120k miles, my 2003 Camry LE 2.4L started to make some noise when making sharp right turn at low speed (below 5mph) going forward. It sounds like the tire rubbing the fender or somewhere, not metallic, and it's periodic, at 2-3Hz or so. It comes from somewhere on the driver side but I'm not sure. The car doesn't make noise when turning at stop or backing up or going straight, and the noise seems to disappear if turning at higher speed (maybe the turn is not sharp enough).
First I suspect the tire is rubbing the fender. But after inspection, no rubbing marks can be found, and there seems no rubbing when the car is parked and the wheel turn all the way to the right. Then I suspect a bad CV axle. But the boots seem in good shape with no leaking grease, and there's no noise when backing up.
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A few months ago I had the passenger side Control Arm replaced. Over a year ago I had them both replaced with after market parts. I went into the dealer and was told the reason the parts failed so soon was because the parts were aftermarket parts and that I should have them replaced with original Toyota part. When the passenger side failed again, I had the dealer replace it with an original Toyota part.
Here's the problem: after they replaced the one side with an Toyota part I took my car and immediately when making a sharp turn to the right the vehicle making a jerking motion. It was unnerving the first time. It felt as if the vehicle might turn over. I noticed that this only happen or mostly happen when making a turn to the right.
Also, as I'm accelerating the vehicle will pull to the right the abruptly jerk to the left. What I was told by the dealer is that scene replaced the one side with a Original Part and the other side was an aftermarket part, the two not being of the same quality were what I felt he was saying that the parts were slightly different in size and would cause this problem.
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I have a 2006 with 106K miles. Noticed after making a sharp left turn in a parking lot that the Red Triangle came on along with a beep and the message, "Problem" on the touch screen. Started happening more frequently either when the wheel is turning left or if I'm driving straight and the car drifts a little towards the left if I'm on the highway. Today it happened about 6 times. Warning goes off after a couple of seconds.
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For the last few weeks, when I make a turn (particularly a sharp turn in either direction) I get a "clunking" noise that sounds like it is coming from the front end somewhere. I can also feel it - almost like a gear slipping and engaging again. I am not in 4WD mode when this is happening. It NEVER happens unless I am turning a corner. If I drive straight, it's fine. 1999 Explorer XLT (4 door, 4wd model)....
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I've had my R since late mid-summer, and one of the first things I noticed was this clunk sound when reversing into my parking spot and when making an aggressive sharp turn. Usually Left.
After reading multiple threads on this topic, I came to the conclusion that it was my sub-frame and the bolts need replacing. I got in a GB for the tyrol subframe stiffening kit after reading some good reviews/responses.
Today, on my day off, I finally went to a mechanic to get this installed. I just changed my mechanic, and this was my first visit to the guy hes had over 10 years experience at vw and just opened up his own shop. He did a great job, torqued the bolts to spec, made me drive around, do some pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear, reverse forward etc.
So hes about to pull the car back in to retorque and.... CLUNK...
Get in the car, reproduce the sound, get the car back up on the hoist... and at this point I'm expecting the worse. He takes my control arms off, checks the end links...
Brings the car down, and the clunking sound is louder than ever. It was the weathergaurd. When I turned on the wheel it was pulling it out and when I straightened the wheel it was popping it back into place, making a big clunk sound.
This was the exact sound that I was hearing, thinking it was my subframe. The bolts that came out were not stretched or bent out of shape like the ones you see in other reviews. They're actually in great shape. I'm glad I did the Tyrol kit and do not regret it, and I definitely feel a difference when I went into some aggressive turns.
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Lariat stepside, 5.4L with 150k miles. Loud popping noise, almost a clunk, when making a slow sharp turn. Put it on jackstands and did the normal tire grab and shake and found no issues there. Tie rods, ball joints and sway bar links all seem tight. Looked for signs of unusual rubber to metal and metal to metal wear and found nothing. The only thing I did see was the rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joints were split. What I have checked or if I am missing something?
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I was pulling out of a parking lot making a sharp turn when all the sudden I lost my power steering. I have a '94 Ford Ranger manual transmission. It didn't make any sounds. I was going to try to keep adding power steering fluid to it and try to get it home to my mechanic in my hometown - but it drips constant liquid when I drive it down the street (you can see drips) so I don't think that's possible. I've read a lot on here about gear boxes failing, but would this cause it to leak even if the truck wasn't running? (the puddle builds quickly when its just sitting there, engine off). I took it to a mechanic (I don't have tools), and they said they can't say anything for sure until they look around, it could be seals or a new gear box.
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Just to start off im new to the camry family.I have a 2007 camry se. Well the the problem I am having is when i make a sharp turn or hit on the brakes hard my oil light flashes. Didn't know if this is a big problem or something small. the light flashes and goes rite back off.
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I have a 1995 Mazda Truck, B2300 series that is a 4 wheel drive. Recently I had the front brakes replaced, new clay disc brakes. Not so long after that I started to hear a noise as I was braking as well as squeaking. I thought, of course it had something to do with the new brakes. The sound happened occasionally at first and now is every time I brake.
I can hear it as I'm coming to a stop, sounding like it's coming from the rear. It's a rubbing type noise, like a wa, wa, wa, wa that happens until I have stopped. After 2 mechanics I now have a $700 estimate to replace the u-joint, and they aren't even sure if that will fix it.
The front brakes are new. The rear drums have been replaced and machined to fit properly (they thought that was the issue). Is this common or something that I have to fix every such and such miles?
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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My gas lid will not shut flush. When I lock the doors it makes a loud sound as if it is having a hard time catching the lock. The lock still catches but its still not flush. When the car is unlocked and I shut the door I can just pull it open without pushing on it as it is not sitting flush. I checked for anything that may be in the way of the hinge and all seems normal.
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So 2 months after my accident I'm finally able to drive again and my car is 100% fixed and ready. Only 1 problem, every time I make a left turn my car makes this weird noise but I don't know what it is. I replaced my suspension and I thought it would take a couple days for the tightness to wear down and for the noise to go away, but of course with my luck it's still doing it. What can it be??
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For the last few months, I have been chasing down steering problems. Alignment, end links, ball joints... and now, humming. Every time I take a turn that requires more than 1/4 turn of the steering wheel, the car hums. It wasn't very noticeable at first, but over the last week it has gotten much louder.
I have topped off my PS fluid and replaced my belts, but this has not solved the issue. Before I start replacing a pump and/or a steering rack.
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I drive a 94 Saturn SL1 as a part-time delivery driver for a pizza shop. Recently I bottomed out on someone's driveway. I could hear the bottom of my car scraping against the asphalt. It took several tries (in my 5-speed) to free myself from this trap. Since then I've been hearing a pretty loud "clicking" noise from the passenger side of the car every time I make a turn, where a small turn or a big turn. My mechanic replaced the left axle and the right boot, saying that both were defective. However I still hear the noise. What can I do??
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I have owned a 2002 Volvo S60 2.4L for the past two years, and she has served me well. However, I have been having issues lately. She has hit 179,400-ish miles and with age things have started to fail. I want to know how much it will cost to fix these things and if I can do it myself.
There is a metallic popping noise coming from the right front side of the vehicle every time I make a turn (I haven't particularly noticed if it's a left- or right-hand turn when it happens.) I have been advised by my father that it's probably a CV (constant velocity) joint. Is that what's causing the noise?
My right front headlight has gone out, and I've replaced the bulb as well as the fuse, but it's still out. Could it be faulty wiring? The left front blinker has stopped blinking, I hope that's as simple as changing out the bulb.
The shift is automatic, but in the mornings (I've noticed it's mostly when it's cold outside) I attempt to move the shifter out of park and it won't budge for several minutes. Sometimes I have to turn the engine off, and then turn it back on for the shifter to move.
One last question- how often should I change and/or flush my transmission fluid and the filter, and can I do that myself or should I take it to the dealership? (Which I am reluctant to do.)
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I have a dodge neon that has a hard time starting. if i turn the key about 6-8 times i hear a noise like a pump ( i am guessing) and then it starts. if i do not turn the key on and off it will not start.
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I have a 2013 Avalon hybrid that is almost 1 yr old.
I have recently notice a single "pop" noise that seems to be coming from the rear when I turn right with a sharp turn.
I have looked in the trunk and under the vehicle but I cannot find where it is coming from.
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In the summer months when the air conditioning is in use, there is a back up of water. i can hear the water sloshing sound when the air is on and when making sharp turns it actually drains out on the front floor, both driver and passenger sides. it has also overflowed out the backseat air vents. my mechanic has told me the drain on this vehicle is tiny and becomes clogged easily. the car is parked in my garage, not left out in the elements so i disagree.
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