GMC - Suburban :: 1992 - Tapping Noise Comes From Driver Side Of Engine When Push The Gas Pedal Down
May 26, 2014
Ok, so I have a 1992 GMC Suburban with a 350 TBI with a full dual exhaust and long pipe headers. The problem I'm having is that there is a tapping noise that comes from the driver's side of the engine when you push the gas pedal down. It only makes the noise when you push the pedal down more than about a quarter of an inch. I have tested it down hill with the transmission out of overdrive and the rpms up and there is no tapping. I'm thinking it might be pre-ignition in one of the cylinders but how to test for it other than just disconnecting plug wires one at a time until it stops. Much more I don't know what would be causing it to happen if that is the problem.
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I have a noise that has developed in the front drivers side(wheel area). When I turn right -- it can only be heard at slow speed, when I start from a stop-- there is a " tapping" type noise that appears to come from the wheel area. Is it possible that I am about to have problems from the CV axle?
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1.8T... Finding the source of a weird clicking noise I keep hearing. Ever since I changed the motor mounts (although I am not sure if this has anything to do with it) after the engine warms up or after some driving, when the engine is idling I hear a clicking or tapping noise coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. It doesn't seem to tied to the rpm; I can rev the engine a little without the tapping going faster, and when a shift between neutral or park or drive the tapping will briefly slow down almost to a stop before going back to its regular pace. After the revs get above 1500 or so it seems to stop.
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Started having an issue with my '92 E-350 box truck. I noticed a slight hesitation while driving which I thought was a miss from perhaps a plug wire jumping or something. It didn't do it all the time, just occasionally for a few seconds then would clear up. I looked for a bad wire at night but couldn't find anything so I said hell with it and changed plugs and wires, cap and all.
That didn't fix the problem. Progressively the problem has gotten worse. Then I started hearing a pinging, almost tapping noise as the truck was stumbling. Now I've noticed that the motor seems to be running fine as it does it which has led me to think it may be in the trans.
A little background on the trans. About 6 months ago the van started randomly conking itself out coming to a stop after a few minutes of driving. It seemed the trans was bogging the motor down as if it were locked together. If I put the truck in neutral coming to a stop it wouldn't do it. I went ahead and had my uncles shop flush the trans and he put some sort of synthetic fluid in it.
Since then the van has never done the cutting off thing again. All seemed well. Then this started. It does it from take off through all the gears even in OD. It almost feels as if someone is rapidly hitting the brakes. I thought maybe malfunctioning brakes however soon as I'm not pressing the accelerator it doesn't do it.
Today I had about 4000 lbs of wood in truck and it was a horrible trip. The truck would barely get up to speed. I unloaded the wood and on the way home it only seemed to do it going up hills so it seems any load on the truck makes it happen.
Does it seem I'm in the right area thinking transmission?? Being it happens in every gear would a torque converter seem to be a possibility. When I was having the cutting off problem I was told it sounded like the converter wasn't unlocking but the flush seemed to fix that issue.
I haven't pulled the pan to see if there's any surprises in it and I did the diagnostic check and there wasn't any problems found. Any other manual diagnostic checks?????
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I've been noticing a tapping sound coming from the rear driver's side of the car recently, and it's only when idling after the car has warmed up. Someone has said that it may be the Leak Detection Pump located above the wheel well in the rear driver's side of the car. My question is does the tapping sound mean that it's going bad?
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I have a 2001 ram 1500 4x4. For the past 2 weeks, when I touch the brake pedal I can hearing a ticking noise coming from the front driverside wheel. The ticking frequency is speed dependent. I had the brakes replaced, and the shop could not find the ticking noise. The truck performs get and there are no braking problems other than the ticking sound, but now for the strange part...
My abs and brake light are now coming on. However, as soon as my abs and brake light come on, usually on the freeway around 65mph, the ticking noise from braking is gone. So with no abs and brake light, brand new brakes tick at the slightest touch of the brake pedal, with the ticking freq. equal to wheel revs.
With abs and brake light on, no ticking. Plus the shop said that I only have abs in the rear.
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We have a 2004 Honda Accord V6 with 178,000 miles and the car is giving us some issues. We can drive the car for 10-15 minutes with no issues. Then when we push on the gas pedal, the car will not go any farther and the engine just revs. If we turn the car off and restart it, the car will continue to drive. There are no check engine lights on the car. Could these be a transmission issue?
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I had a slight head butting contest with a deer. My driver side AIR BAG BLEW OUT. I want to replace the air bag. ( I live in N.C. air bags are NOT required) so I don't care if it is functional. I just want it there un-blown, for looks. I've been told that a special tool is required to remove the old one ( and the one in a salvage truck I've located). What tool I need? Or what it might be called or where I can get one????
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My 2013 Sonata, just out of the blue decided the driver side door push button wouldn't work anymore. it seems like it gets stuck when it's depressed, I can manually "pop" it back out and press the button and the doors lock/unlock but becomes stuck again.
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F150 2007 5.4 tapping from idle to infinity driver side wheel wellI have read thought a ton of these post and my head is spinning I have used 10w30 from 10,000 to 100,000 with lucas then 20w50 with lucas current 150,000 miles changed oil every 5000 +/- a few It taps when I first crank up cold or hot, it taps at 0 degrees or 200 degrees, it tapps at 800 rpms or when im really mad at 5800 rpms and never stops it is really loud at the driver side wheel well its not the injectors, coils, plugs, exhaust i have been all over, under, and around the truck hot, cold, day, night, and even threatened to empty my .45 clip on it and it refuses to tell me what is going on and cannot found a resolution I could deal with it but pulling up to the drive through window and it echoing back at me has me ready to order a create motor.
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I have a 2door 1992 Honda Accord EXR. In order to lock the car, you need to close the driver door and use the key to lock - annoying as hell but apparently the only way.
It recently got very cold and I can't seem to lock my driver's side door from the outside with my key. I tried squirting in door lock de-icer but to no avail. The key does not turn on the outside although once inside I can lock it from inside with the door lock switch.
Passenger side locks but it does not lock the driver's door.
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2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT... My brother took my truck off road yesterday by himself and when I left there was a noise on the passenger side. It sounds like slowly tapping an empty barrel, it ranged from a low noise and a little louder. Randomly while driving... Bumps in the road wasn't the problem or turns didn't make it either. I found a thin stick with burrs stuck underneath and took it out but when I left driving again it still made that noise. It might vary by speed but I doubt it I only drove a couple times and that's all I perceived so far. I am wondering if I should be driving it at all now? until I can get it looked at I also called my brother and asked if he hit any bumps or holes real hard but he said no hoping he's not lying to me.
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My truck has 91,000 miles and started last week with a tapping noise one the right side. Mechanic said could be cam phaser, lifters or crank case problem....
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I have a manual 1992 ford ranger V6 with a 3.0L and for a while now i have been hearing a VERY light tapping sound while accelerating. its so quiet that most people can barely hear it when I turn off the radio and A/C. For about a year or so I could only hear the tapping when I was going up an incline in fourth or fifth gear, but recently I can hear it on flat roads but only occasionally, Again I can only hear it in forth and fifth gear and only when i first get in the gear,when i speed up it goes. I don't Know if this is good but I change the oil and spark plug regularly.
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I've got a 2001 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed. Car has 105,500 miles. Whenever the car is running, it makes an irritating tapping noise somewhere on the left side of the motor. I've been told that it sounds like the timing belt, but the car runs perfectly, doesn't miss. The tapping used to go away 30 seconds to a minute after starting it, but now it's constantly there and slightly louder. The noise goes with the rpms. When the rpms are higher, the tapping is faster. I've also noticed some loss of power. I recently added some octane booster to the fuel but noticed no difference. My uncle told me it may be a main bearing starting to go out but the tapping does not have a metallic tone of any.
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As I was driving home from vacation the other day while towing my boat I started noticing a tapping sound coming from the passenger side. Sounds like an exhaust leak or a lifter. Can't tell. Sounds louder under acceleration. It's a 2009 5.4 with 70k. Just had ford do oil change last week. Oil level is good.
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The drivers side power door lock is starting to go out. The lock is very sluggish and sometime does not activate. Two months ago I sprayed the mechanism with some lite oil, that worked for a little while. I could not see the power relay on the power lock there is not much room to see inside the door.
1992 4.0L Aerostar...
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I've been fighting with this noise for probably about 4 months now. I've replaced my strut mounts and strut bearings thinking they were shot, but this didn't even begin to stop the noise. I seem to be hearing it whenever the weight of the car is shifted. The best way to describe the noise is a tapping or high pitched thumping. It's definitely coming from the right corner of the car. Also, I have been hearing a grinding noise from that side when turning the wheel sharply to the left.
I was thinking this was because my brakes needed to be changed and the indicators were scrapping whenever I turned the wheels. I work full time and go to school, so I don't have a lot of time to figure out what's going on. That's why I'm posting here, so I can maybe get some insight before I have time to look at it this weekend. By the way, I have jacked the car up and shook the wheel to check the ball joint and wheel bearing. The wheel was very tight and I didn't feel any play at all.
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I bought a use 2009 Matrix S 2.4L (2AZ-FE) with about 81000 miles on it. when the car is at idle i hear a light tapping sound on the passenger side. It sounds like the engine but am not sure what it might be. What is causing the tapping sound and how to fix it? (i saw some ppl post about the OCV.) The car also has a light vibration when am at a stop n in gear. Its annoying because i bought a car not a tractor.
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After you turn off the engine,there's a noise coming under the driver side of the car and it stops after 10 seconds,did may be a small Japanese assembly worker got stuck under there or something.
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2005 V8 TREG 74,000 miles ... Just last week.... My T-reg started to hear this knocking noise which seems to come from the engine on the driver side... I would say lifter sound but hoping that's not the issue. I do notice that when i start the car, no noise but when driven on the highway... I hear it especially when i come off the highway. On regular street drives, it takes a while for the noise to come up. I've had the Treg for about a year now and havent had any problems but this. I drive the car during the weekends and sometimes during the week.
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