I have a 1999 GMC Sonoma with 76,000 miles. The heater started blowing cold air so I took it to my local GMC dealer and they did a chemical flush of the heater core. The heater now blows luke warm air but it is not nearly as warm as it used to be. My local dealer repair shop is now telling me that I need to replace the heater core itself to the tune of about $1,000. Do I have any other options?
View 5 Replies1999 Sonoma, 4.3L V6, 2 wheel drive, X engine code, about 92,000 miles.
It doesn't accelerate smoothly. It starts, runs, idles fine. Drives fine at constant speed. The problem comes when during moderate acceleration, either from a stop or when speeding up from a constant speed, i.e.: passing another car or getting on the freeway.
If I go real easy on the throttle, it runs fine and accelerates ok. But if I give it too much gas, it sputters out, misses, chokes, total loss of power. This happens under normal driving conditions. The 'check engine' light hasn't come on.
I've got a '99 GMC Sonoma that I purchased last summer. Great little rig, runs well and the previous owner took care of it. In the last couple of days the headlights and dashboard display have been flickering at all RPMs. I am guessing a bad battery or alternator, but previous related posts indicate it could be all sorts of stuff electrical.
From what I can tell from previous posts, the easier tests are
1) Voltage across the battery poles with engine off to test for a bad cell,
2) AC voltage at battery with engine running to test for alternator diode problems (should be no AC voltage, correct?), or
3) Something called the A.I.R. pump, which I've never heard of and wouldn't know how to test.
The last time I had this happen was on a 2000 Caravan, and it was the battery.
1995 GMC Sonoma, 4.3L TBI 2-wheel drive Automatic. Will not go more than 20 MPH, will stall out and die if you try pushing on the accelerator. Had a code of 32 saying the EGR Valve. I bought and put on a new EGR Valve. Still does the same thing--no power and only 20 MPH. I'm wondering if it could be that the catalytic converter is plugged or maybe a bad fuel pump.
View 3 Replies1996 GMC sonoma, 150k, automatic. Parked it today and it wouldn't go into park. First thought was that the cable had stretched but notice that the shift lever wasn't going all the way to the park position. Feels like something is blocking it. Tried it running as well as not running. Of course I can't get my keys out or turn the ignition all the way off so I had to unhook my battery.
View 6 RepliesI'm trying to figure out what the problem with my truck is. Starting sometimes takes a few tries. It will start then stall immediately or run rough for a bit and stall or run normal. At first I thought it was electrical since I used a jump start off a battery charger and it started right up. The battery was 5 yrs old so I got a new one and it's starting better but still not all the time. I replaced the fuel filter and it didn't seem to make any difference. I tested the fuel pressure and it's at 52 PSI before and after starting. Seems to start better when warm. Runs perfectly fine after starting, no other issues.
View 3 RepliesJust had a quick question in regards to my Sonoma. My 97 Sonoma 2.2l transmission died on me a few weeks back and i happen to have a working 4.3L transmission from an old 2000 Sonoma i once had. My question is will it work? Am I able to bolt the 4.3L tranny to my 2.2L engine? and if they would is there anything else I would require to make it work?
View 7 RepliesI recently bought a 2000 Gmc Sonoma SLS and it's been a headache ever since. Ever since I got it, it's made this rattling sound that only occurs when I'm both idling and when the AC compressor is on. The sound is intermittent and sounds like something rattling against a large metal pan. Whenever I turn the AC off or pick up the RPMs, it stops like it was never there.My first thought was: belt tensioner. So I popped the hood and watched the tensioner at idle and it seems to be moving back & forth a lot more than I think it should, however, there's not much give at all when I push on the belt itself.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1995 GMC Sonoma pickup truck with supposedly a blown cylinder head gasket. It only has 53K original miles on it. It overheated and I had it towed to a service shop. They put in a new water pump, new coolant, new thermostat, new radiator hose and did an oil & filter change. Well, 100 miles later, I noticed my water coolant was disappearing and the oil pressure was rising. I brought it back to the same shop and after looking at it for five minutes they informed me it was a blown cylinder head gasket. They said they had no way to determine this when they were doing the repairs the first time. So, I ask the following:
1-Was it proper for the shop to do the first repair without checking for a potential head gasket leak?
2-Is there some type of testing that could have been done by the repair shop to check for coolant leaks into the engine oil? 3-Would I have saved money (labor) by having this taken care of at the time of the initial repair?
I have a 2001 GMC Sonoma Highrider Edition it has the 4.3 Vortex and its 4x4 my transmission has been whining slightly it has 169,000 miles on it runs and shifts great it when's when ever its in park and whens threw 1st gear from what I can tell but it doesn't whine in Reverse from what I can tell. This is my first truck and I love it so far and Id hate for the transmission.
View 2 RepliesThe brake lights on my truck are not working all the fuses are good, the bulbs are good, I have changed the brake switch. They still do not work, altho all the other lights at the rear work even tail lights.
View 19 RepliesCar: 1992 GMC Sonoma 2.8L Manual,
Miles: ONLY 197,000 miles...
Symptom: Sometimes won't start (not even turn over) when engine is warm. It doesn't die or anything it just won't start if i've been driving for more than an hour and I say, stop to get gas or something. It doesn't make an sound, not even a click. This has only happened to me about 3 or 4 times in the last 6 months.
Fixes: I have not had a mechanic take a look at this yet. They usually complain about other things when I bring it in. Little things like "your brakes are almost gone" (big deal, I don't need breaks because it is a stick shift) or "your tires are showing their metal wire" (big deal, I've had a front tire blow out before at 70 mph... on this same truck come to think of it).
Current workaround : The following three things work to get it started every time:
1. A jump starts it right up
2. Push start starts up real easy (I've done it by my self on flat pavement
3. Wait for an hour or two (not always an option)
Feeble attempt to diagnose: My feeling is that the starter motor is beginning to go but are there other things that can cause this before I pour money into fixing the starter?
I have heard that it is the ign switch but I have changed it twice already whats my next step??
View 15 RepliesI got a 1997 sonoma which has a p0300 code. I changed the plugs and wires, cap and rotor and the pcv value, and it still misses. what could this be?
View 18 RepliesMy father-in-law’s 2003 Sonoma truck has the check engine light on and I found it was driven by the P1072 / P1075 codes, indicating that both bank 1 and 2 were too rich.We have tried numerous repairs to fix the issue, including the following:
•Replaced all oxygen sensors
•Replaced a vacuum hose
•Replaced the spark plugs
•Replaced the fuel filter
•Replaced the spider injector assembly
•Cleaned the mass air flow sensor
Despite the above actions, the truck still has the same error codes. He took it to the local Chevy dealer and they could not find what was wrong.
The Sonoma is basically the same as a Chevy S-10. It has a 4.3L V-6, auto trans. and 148K miles.
About half the time it will crank and crank and crank before it finally starts. Other times it will start with the first cylinder to hit TDC. I have found that waiting with the key on until the security light goes out will SOMETIMES make a difference. If I don't wait for the light to go out, it always takes several attempts to start. I hope that symptom is not entirely in my mind. I don't think it will start at all if I just continue to grind on the starter. Doing it in 3-5 second bursts sometimes works, sometimes not. It does not seem to matter if it is the first start of the day, or after the engine is warmed up.
The fuel pump appears to have been replaced at some time as some idiot sawed a hole in the bed to do it rather than dropping the tank. There is no way to know how old the pump is, but I suspect they may have been fighting the same problem, and should be shot.
Just bought a 1995 GMC Sonoma. Needs some TLC but the brake and clutch pedals are unusually hard. They are still 100% operable, but they are both pretty stiff. Any trial and error ideas I should try to attempt to resolve this issue? Yes, fluids are topped off.
View 1 RepliesI have a 94 Sonoma SLS, V6/auto that has a weird problem of not restarting after I stop for fuel or at the house for a few minutes. The engine will crank normally but acts like it isn't getting fuel. I have had the fuel pump replaced already and I just replaced the fuel pump relay. I additionally replaced the coolant sensor(long shot there) when I replaced the radiator due to a leak.
View 3 Replies95 GMC Sonoma SLS 2.2L 5 speed distributorless ignitionStart cold, engine purrs, runs for 20-25 min, idling in drive, then dies as if you shut it off. All fluid levels correct. Will not restart until cools off. Have replaced: coils and ignition module, fuel pump and sending unit, ignition cylinder and ignition switch, oil pressure switch. Engine light does not come on. (bulb is not burnt, comes on when starting). Have checked all grounds.
View 5 RepliesCar: 1992 GMC Sonoma 2.8L Manual
Miles: ONLY 197,000 miles
Symptom: My windshield wipers sometimes stop in middle of the windshield. Sometimes the windshield wipers keep going for three or four cycles after I've turned them off with the switch. I don't see any pattern in when they stop in the middle. The constant speeds of low and high are still low and high and they always seem to go all the way back down before coming back up. I haven't played with the intermittent speeds very much so I don't know what they're are doing.
Fixes: I have not had a mechanic take a look at this yet. They usually complain about other things when I bring it in. Little things like "your brakes are almost gone" (big deal, I don't need breaks because it is a stick shift) or "your tires are showing their metal wire" (big deal, I've had a front tire blow out before at 70 mph... on this same truck come to think of it).
Current workaround: I usually keep playing with the wipers until they end up back at the bottom by turning them on and off at different intervals.
I have a 1995 GMC Sanoma, 2.2 Lt, 4 cyl, 5 spd. It has about 130K miles. Each day I drive it back and forth to work (about 30 miles one way). About 6 months ago I noticed that at about 5 miles into my drive to work it would stutter but then catch itself and go on the rest of the way with no problems. On the drive home it would do the same thing at about 8 miles into the drive. This didn't really bother me until one day instead of stuttering it stalled but I could restart it right away while coasting. It had steadily gotten worse to where I had to pull over on the side of the road and restart because it wouldn't restart right away. Nowadays I hardly drive it at all because I'm afraid it will stall and not restart at all. I have replaced the air idle control, fuel pump relay and the positive battery cable. The symptons now are basically the same but different, I can start it (anytime, morning or evening) and it will idle fine for about 5-10 minutes. It will then start to stutter and try to catch itself, the idle will then rev up to about 1500 and then come back down and stutter some more before stalling. After that it will not start back up until maybe 10 minutes after, (it acts like it is not getting any fuel) but once it starts it runs fine, I drove it around for about 20 miles and it ran real strong. The next day it went through this same cycle again.
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