GMC - Sonoma :: 1998 - Quit Running Now Won't Start
Feb 24, 2015
I have heard that it is the ign switch but I have changed it twice already whats my next step??
View 15 RepliesI have heard that it is the ign switch but I have changed it twice already whats my next step??
View 15 RepliesThe Sonoma is basically the same as a Chevy S-10. It has a 4.3L V-6, auto trans. and 148K miles.
About half the time it will crank and crank and crank before it finally starts. Other times it will start with the first cylinder to hit TDC. I have found that waiting with the key on until the security light goes out will SOMETIMES make a difference. If I don't wait for the light to go out, it always takes several attempts to start. I hope that symptom is not entirely in my mind. I don't think it will start at all if I just continue to grind on the starter. Doing it in 3-5 second bursts sometimes works, sometimes not. It does not seem to matter if it is the first start of the day, or after the engine is warmed up.
The fuel pump appears to have been replaced at some time as some idiot sawed a hole in the bed to do it rather than dropping the tank. There is no way to know how old the pump is, but I suspect they may have been fighting the same problem, and should be shot.
The brake lights on my truck are not working all the fuses are good, the bulbs are good, I have changed the brake switch. They still do not work, altho all the other lights at the rear work even tail lights.
View 19 RepliesWhen the ignition is turn on, it does not turn over. After 45 minutes, it starts without a hickup. This has been going on for a few days.
This is a black Mazda6 V6 Sport edition. She has had one other problem in the past, where the whole car quit running while on the interstate at 65mph. She barely got it pulled over and it would not start. She had it towed but was able to start it once it was at the repair shop. The code mentioned a transmission issue, but didn't offer any clarity to the dealership mechanics. They never solved the problem, but that did not happen again.
I mention both of these because they may or may not be related. There has been several months between the issues.
There were burn marks on the starter, so the dealership replaced it, thinking that was the issue. $600 later, the symptoms remain. Its not the battery because it starts eventually. The codes on the computer were supposedly "random garble," so they have not done anything further and do not know how to fix it.
Car drives excellent in dry weather, smooth, no hesitation. or misses. While driving in the rain, the car will start running "REAL" ruff and then will stall. I try to start it and the motor just turns over, sounds like no gas or not firing. I will keep trying and after about 6 times it will fire, start and quits, if lucky with a few more tries I can get it started and needs to rev up to 4,000, sometimes it will stay there with a miss or RPM works down and quits. When lucky I can nurse it home and then won't start for 3 days.
I have replaced Crankcase position sensor, (made shield for side at wheel well and shield on bottom), camshaft sensor, spark plugs and wires, had coil packs checked, checked plate that coil packs set on, cleaned battery posts, checked and pulled on wires to coil pack plate, none lose and had continuity, put silicone sealant at end of wires to protect from moisture and hold them in replace. Sprayed top of engine with silicone spray and flex seal. Even had intake manifold gasket replaced in case it was sucking in water. Replacing crankshaft position sensor did some good, it makes for faster starts.
I'm working on a 2005 F350 with a 6.0. The customer was driving the truck when it suddenly quit running and now it won't start. The only code stored in the memory is P2290 - ICP too low. With my scanner connected the IPR is showing 85% duty cycle and the ICP is only showing 5 psi while cranking. I disconnected the ICP sensor while cranking but still no fire, so I removed it and connected a pressure gauge which shows zero psi while cranking. I hooked up a cylinder leakdown gauge to the ICP port and with 100 PSI of air pressure I'm showing less than 2% leakage with the IPR energized at 60% duty. Thinking the hpop was bad I replaced it but still no change. I also tried a new IPR but no luck there either. I removed the oil filter cartridge and verified the low pressure pump is pumping oil while cranking. Could the inlet screen be plugged inside the oil cooler? I'm at a complete loss.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f150 V-6 4.2. My son was driving the truck on the expressway and it quit running. The toe truck has delivered the truck back to my house. The engine turns over but will not start. I shot gas into the engine with a spray bottle and the engine still would not start. Was going to check the coil for spark next. What to check first. Was thinking the problem could be the modulator or coil.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2007 XLS, 2.3L Auto/AWD. About a month ago it quit running while driving, just shut off. When I tried to restart the dash made clicking noises, fuel pump grunt type noises, cluster stays in drive position even though floor shifter indicates I'm in park. Pulled a code P0606, replaced PCM. It started and ran for 20 minutes, made it about 1/4 mile up the road, shut off again. Now I can't pull a code, dash indicates I'm in drive while vehicle is in park, same noises etc.
View 6 RepliesCar: 1992 GMC Sonoma 2.8L Manual Miles: ONLY 197,000 miles
Symptom: When ever I put the switch to OFF or VENT or HEAT the console starts to smoke (if the truck is on, of course). I noticed that I can hear the A/C running even when I put switch to one of the off positions.
Fixes: I have not had a mechanic take a look at this yet. They usually complain about other things when I bring it in. Little things like "your brakes are almost gone" (big deal, I don't need breaks because it is a stick shift) or "your tires are showing their metal wire" (big deal, I've had a front tire blow out before at 70 mph... on this same truck come to think of it).
Current workarounds: I keep the A/C on all the time even if I don't need it. I tried pulling the fuse and that did work, I can put the switch anywhere without the fear of smoke but it turns off the blower motor as well. If the blower is off then I'll have a hard time getting heat in the winter (Florida winters are very cold, down to the low 40s sometimes)
Feeble attempt to diagnose: I think I've seen card board be used as insulation inside the console before, I think whatever insulation was in there started degrade. I'm thinking that I'd like to track down the wires for and put the A/C on a different switch so I can still turn off the A/C and keep the blower going for the cold cold winter. Are there simpler solutions?
From cold, I start the van up, and if I just slightly crack the throttle it will start running rough. I think it goes away under heavier throttle...might just be that the rpms are up I can't feel it anymore, I don't know. It will idle just fine, and after it warms up it also seems fine. Where to look?Also I sometimes hear a very small, high pitched, vacuum leak from under the hood. What are the most common items that go bad, that I should look at first?
View 4 RepliesCar: 1992 GMC Sonoma 2.8L Manual,
Miles: ONLY 197,000 miles...
Symptom: Sometimes won't start (not even turn over) when engine is warm. It doesn't die or anything it just won't start if i've been driving for more than an hour and I say, stop to get gas or something. It doesn't make an sound, not even a click. This has only happened to me about 3 or 4 times in the last 6 months.
Fixes: I have not had a mechanic take a look at this yet. They usually complain about other things when I bring it in. Little things like "your brakes are almost gone" (big deal, I don't need breaks because it is a stick shift) or "your tires are showing their metal wire" (big deal, I've had a front tire blow out before at 70 mph... on this same truck come to think of it).
Current workaround : The following three things work to get it started every time:
1. A jump starts it right up
2. Push start starts up real easy (I've done it by my self on flat pavement
3. Wait for an hour or two (not always an option)
Feeble attempt to diagnose: My feeling is that the starter motor is beginning to go but are there other things that can cause this before I pour money into fixing the starter?
I have a 98 Accord LX with 2.3L 4 cyl. with 356,000 miles. It looks and runs fantastic. However, lately, both the headlights and heater/blower/control console -- either will not come on even though the engine is running or sometimes flicker while driving down the road. When I type in "98 Accord no headlights" it gives me a couple topics about headlights then jumps all around and even goes to totally different car manufactures. I'm sure out of 305 pages of replies there are lots of readers that have had similar issues. I installed a new alternator about 3-4 months ago.
View 7 RepliesOkay, I've had about enough of this car. Recently, while driving, the car quit accelerating completely. I believe the Check Engine light came on but I'm not sure; I was rather frustrated at that particular time. Anyways, I've heard a few different theories as to what it can be (i.e. coil park, fuel pump, pump relay, etc.) I've really not got a lot of money to work with at all and I'm on the verge of just selling it as is. The car now will not turn over. I recently replaced the battery and the lights and stereo, etc. work.
View 2 RepliesThe Trailblazer quit running like it ran out of gas. I had it towed and put a new fuel pump in it. When I try starting it, it acts like it isnt firing. It is also clicking over what looks like a carburetor next to the breather. It clicks really fast and keeps on till I turn the key off. I can see what I think is the coil packs and it is to the right of this. I have replaced the battery as well. The engine will turn over but wont fire.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 windstar with a 3.8. I took my daughter Christmas shopping and noticed the car did not want to shift out of first gear. I shifted it manually to second and then DRIVE and that worked until I stopped at a light. I took off in DRIVE and the car did shift to second and third on its own but it shifted late and hard. Also, the speedometer quit working and the overdive light on the shifter just turned on by itself and then went out. By the time we got home, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light was on. All these symptoms happened in a relatively short amount of time (5 miles). I suspect something electrical but am not sure. Is there a speed sensor fuse on these cars?
View 2 RepliesI am having problems with the blower on my truck. I can feel the air coming from vents no matter what setting on it. I think it maybe the blower itself as it was working and just quit. Is there a fuse for the blower that I can check? And I have the V6 4.2L 2 wheel drive
View 8 RepliesThe digital dash went out a while back and I never fixed it. Now if the lights are on dim the left headlight will not come on and the right will flicker like a strobe. When the brights are on, the right works normally, but the left will flick on and off. When the left light goes off the speedometer quits working, the abs and trac lights will come on, the cruise quits working, and the wipers quit working. Sometimes it works normally, but the problem is more frequent of late. Hitting bumps in the road seems to effect it sometimes, which points to a short or something poorly connected. Is this a multi-switch issue or a lighting control module issue, or both, or something else.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 e-250, 5.4 4EOD/4R100. The speedometer quit working and with that came hard shifts. This happened previously (only with a blinking O/D light that time) and I replaced the VSS and then the shift solenoid and filter in the transmission pan. That fixed the issue for about 3 days. There were no codes in the computer.
For a couple days the speedometer would not work until about 15-20 mph, then it would work and shift normally. Now there is no speedo action and the shifts are hard at high RPMs.
In the days leading up to this problem I heard a clicking in the dash, seemingly behind the cluster. Kind of like a turn signal but a bit fainter. Before I go and order a cluster...is there anything else I should be checking for? I have no warning lights, and as I said earlier the O/D light is not blinking. We're converting the van to a camper for our upcoming honeymoon and tracing this down is cutting into the buildout.
I have a 96 Plymouth Voyager with 230,000 miles that will quit running doesn't matter if I'm going slow through a parking lot or on the interstate. When going slow like backing up or through a parking lot I put it in P and restart it. Sometimes the engine light comes on, sometimes not. When traveling on road or interstate I mash on the gas and it restarts with turning the key. Some days it happens a lot, some days it doesn't happen at all.
I took to shop and they replace the MAP sensor but the next day it did it again. I took it back and they put replaced it thinking it was just a bad sensor. It still didn't fix the problem so I took to another shop and left it there for a week so they could drive it hoping that it would happen for them but apparently it not. They did replace the ground wire in the wiring harness but two days later it quit running again as I was rolling down the interstate.
My car just started over heating and I checked the fans and they are not running. I'm new to the VW family and although I love the way this car drives I've been baptized with quite a few problems.
View 2 RepliesThis morning I drove down to unlock my gate and got out of the truck while it was idling. When I got to the gate the truck just stopped running it did not sputter or anything it was like a light switch and just shut off. I got back in the truck and tried to start it but nothing happened starter did not engage at all or even try to run. I put a new battery in it knowing that is not the problem but it will just not start or even turn over.
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