GMC - Sonoma :: 1992 - Won't Start When Engine Is Warm?
Sep 15, 2014
Car: 1992 GMC Sonoma 2.8L Manual,
Miles: ONLY 197,000 miles...
Symptom: Sometimes won't start (not even turn over) when engine is warm. It doesn't die or anything it just won't start if i've been driving for more than an hour and I say, stop to get gas or something. It doesn't make an sound, not even a click. This has only happened to me about 3 or 4 times in the last 6 months.
Fixes: I have not had a mechanic take a look at this yet. They usually complain about other things when I bring it in. Little things like "your brakes are almost gone" (big deal, I don't need breaks because it is a stick shift) or "your tires are showing their metal wire" (big deal, I've had a front tire blow out before at 70 mph... on this same truck come to think of it).
Current workaround : The following three things work to get it started every time:
1. A jump starts it right up
2. Push start starts up real easy (I've done it by my self on flat pavement
3. Wait for an hour or two (not always an option)
Feeble attempt to diagnose: My feeling is that the starter motor is beginning to go but are there other things that can cause this before I pour money into fixing the starter?
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Car: 1992 GMC Sonoma 2.8L Manual
Miles: ONLY 197,000 miles
Symptom: My windshield wipers sometimes stop in middle of the windshield. Sometimes the windshield wipers keep going for three or four cycles after I've turned them off with the switch. I don't see any pattern in when they stop in the middle. The constant speeds of low and high are still low and high and they always seem to go all the way back down before coming back up. I haven't played with the intermittent speeds very much so I don't know what they're are doing.
Fixes: I have not had a mechanic take a look at this yet. They usually complain about other things when I bring it in. Little things like "your brakes are almost gone" (big deal, I don't need breaks because it is a stick shift) or "your tires are showing their metal wire" (big deal, I've had a front tire blow out before at 70 mph... on this same truck come to think of it).
Current workaround: I usually keep playing with the wipers until they end up back at the bottom by turning them on and off at different intervals.
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Car: 1992 GMC Sonoma 2.8L Manual Miles: ONLY 197,000 miles
Symptom: When ever I put the switch to OFF or VENT or HEAT the console starts to smoke (if the truck is on, of course). I noticed that I can hear the A/C running even when I put switch to one of the off positions.
Fixes: I have not had a mechanic take a look at this yet. They usually complain about other things when I bring it in. Little things like "your brakes are almost gone" (big deal, I don't need breaks because it is a stick shift) or "your tires are showing their metal wire" (big deal, I've had a front tire blow out before at 70 mph... on this same truck come to think of it).
Current workarounds: I keep the A/C on all the time even if I don't need it. I tried pulling the fuse and that did work, I can put the switch anywhere without the fear of smoke but it turns off the blower motor as well. If the blower is off then I'll have a hard time getting heat in the winter (Florida winters are very cold, down to the low 40s sometimes)
Feeble attempt to diagnose: I think I've seen card board be used as insulation inside the console before, I think whatever insulation was in there started degrade. I'm thinking that I'd like to track down the wires for and put the A/C on a different switch so I can still turn off the A/C and keep the blower going for the cold cold winter. Are there simpler solutions?
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I have heard that it is the ign switch but I have changed it twice already whats my next step??
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The Sonoma is basically the same as a Chevy S-10. It has a 4.3L V-6, auto trans. and 148K miles.
About half the time it will crank and crank and crank before it finally starts. Other times it will start with the first cylinder to hit TDC. I have found that waiting with the key on until the security light goes out will SOMETIMES make a difference. If I don't wait for the light to go out, it always takes several attempts to start. I hope that symptom is not entirely in my mind. I don't think it will start at all if I just continue to grind on the starter. Doing it in 3-5 second bursts sometimes works, sometimes not. It does not seem to matter if it is the first start of the day, or after the engine is warmed up.
The fuel pump appears to have been replaced at some time as some idiot sawed a hole in the bed to do it rather than dropping the tank. There is no way to know how old the pump is, but I suspect they may have been fighting the same problem, and should be shot.
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Temp knob is turned full to hottest setting and heat only blows warm. I checked the hose from the IACV and hose from just past the Thermostat housing and they are also hot. Where the hose enters the "Damper" just outside the firewall, it is hot but the small portion of hose after the damper into the firewall is only moderately warm. Is it possible that damper is clogged or is the heating coil iside the car clogged?
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'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
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I have a 1992 Toyota Corolla that will not start in the summers when the engine gets hot This is the 3rd summer it has happened as I attempt to run errands on the weekend and make several stops. After the 2nd or 3rd location, the car will not start. I must wait 30-45 min. for the car to cool down. I have called tow trucks before and by the time they get to me they are able to start the car. They always check the battery and tell me it is fine. I even bought a new battery just to make sure the first summer it happened. Obviously something is heating up, but what?
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Engine will turn over but not start. it is getting spark and gas I checked coil, replaced plugs and distrib. I checked timing and firing order. Since there is spark and gas shouldn't I at least get a backfire?
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I have a 92 Deville. I drove a pretty good distance today and on the way home stopped at the store and left the car on in the parking lot. I got in and the engine died as I tried to pull out of the lot. When I try to start the car all the lights come on but nothing happens, no clicks or anything. Lights don't even go dim. Could this be the alternator? I know that the starter suddenly dying won't cut off the engine like that. Everything seemed fine before idk what gave out?
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Subject : Vehicle 1992 Ford Truck F-150 300cu. inch
Problem : Electrical
Description : Engine would stop running and as long the key switch was in the on position the electrical fuel pump would keep running and the end result would be a gas flooded engine. There was no way to predict when or where this occurrence would happen. It may be at a busy intersection or immediately after start up in the early morning. It may do this two or three times a week and then go a month without doing this, just about the time I thought everything was alright it would start up again.
I used just about every mechanic I could think of to diagnosis the problem. The fuel pressure switches were changed, map sensor, computer board, new distributor coil and module.A new alternator was also put on the truck to no avail.This truck was taken to a ford dealer garage. In my mind this would the the "Mayo clinical" for a sick Ford vehicle. The truck stayed there for about two weeks and left with the same problem it had arrived with.
Not long afterwards it came into my mind to install a new Ignition coil . That fixed the problem ! The truck ran good for about three months and then started the same thing again. I knew I was on top of the problem. I then put an old used Ignition coil on and it lasted about two weeks. Again resulting in the same problem. I then bought an expensive coil made in the USA "Blue Streak Brand". That has been about 5 years ago. The truck has never caused me any problems since.
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I have a 1995 GMC Sanoma, 2.2 Lt, 4 cyl, 5 spd. It has about 130K miles. Each day I drive it back and forth to work (about 30 miles one way). About 6 months ago I noticed that at about 5 miles into my drive to work it would stutter but then catch itself and go on the rest of the way with no problems. On the drive home it would do the same thing at about 8 miles into the drive. This didn't really bother me until one day instead of stuttering it stalled but I could restart it right away while coasting. It had steadily gotten worse to where I had to pull over on the side of the road and restart because it wouldn't restart right away. Nowadays I hardly drive it at all because I'm afraid it will stall and not restart at all. I have replaced the air idle control, fuel pump relay and the positive battery cable. The symptons now are basically the same but different, I can start it (anytime, morning or evening) and it will idle fine for about 5-10 minutes. It will then start to stutter and try to catch itself, the idle will then rev up to about 1500 and then come back down and stutter some more before stalling. After that it will not start back up until maybe 10 minutes after, (it acts like it is not getting any fuel) but once it starts it runs fine, I drove it around for about 20 miles and it ran real strong. The next day it went through this same cycle again.
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I have a 92 Ford Taurus that runs warm, can overheat, especially in city driving. When driving at faster speeds with less stopping does not give any trouble. The radiator is full. I tried putting a new thermostat in and it overheat just the same. I took it out and it would run warm but not overheat. I flushed out the tranny. There are not leaks. Seems like water will come out to easy from the radiator cap. Thinking maybe it is blocked up some inside the engine. Can a water pump be kicking in and out at lower RPM's
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Mmkay.. 2000 GTI VR6.. Will start initially, when engine is cold (sat overnight, or through the work day) but once the engine is at normal running temp, if you shut it off, it wont start. Acts like its out of gas.. have to "prime" and keep hitting the gas pedal while cranking, to (sometimes) get it to start when warm, and then it runs like crap until I get a few miles down the road.
Brand new plugs and wires, and just this evening, pulled a plug, and its obviously fouled, and covered with unburnt gas. Coil Pack maybe?
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1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"
When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.
I've checked all the following with a shop manual:
Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR
I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.
I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?
I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.
Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.
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I have a 1996 GMC Sonoma extended cab, 2.2l engine (not vortec) purchased in the United States. I’m having trouble setting the timing correctly.
I recently replaced the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and chain, and after several attempts to set the timing, the engine still shakes badly and struggles to run smoothly, especially at idle. (It did not do this before the repair.) My code reader picks up the following codes: P0106, P0108. It seems to me that the timing is off despite my best efforts.
I’m going to try and attach a picture of the timing chain and sprockets as they’re currently set because the camshaft timing mark is strange on this vehicle and I’m not sure if it’s lined up correctly. Does it looks right? (Red mark on cam sprocket made by me; timing mark is supposedly the circular hole above that tooth.)
I did several other repairs at the same time that I did the timing. I have gone back over as much of these as possible and I don’t think I did anything wrong. As cars go I’m strictly an amateur but I work as a small engine mechanic so I have some experience with the way things feel when they’re done wrong. Nevertheless, if the timing is right, maybe I botched one of these?
The simultaneous repairs:
Removed head
Replaced hydraulic lifters
Cleaned carbon off valves
Checked pushrod straightness
Changed gaskets (several)
Replaced oil pressure sensor, coolant temp sensor, & thermostat
Replaced coolant hoses
I did all this because I hit the 150,000-mile mark and I want to keep it running for another 150,000.
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2006 chevy Colorado, 4 cyl engine, 50000 miles, at times when engine is warm it won't restart, when cold no problem, starter turns engine over OK, just won't start, wait 15--30 minutes starts OK... when engine is running it runs good..drives good, Chevy Dealer found no problems, I can find no fault codes when hooked up...
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I have a Santa Fe 2007, when the weather gets warmer it doesn't always start first time, once and a while I have to try two to three times...
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My Burb starts right up when the engine compartment is cold. Can barely touch the key and the thing fires right up.
Once engine compartment is hot (operating temp), I shut off the motor, let it sit for a few minutes and I get about 3-5 seconds of dry start each time I start it. It fires right up, runs great after that dry start period.
The dry-start behaves as if it's starved for fuel for those 3-5 seconds.
It's a K1500 with a stock 5.7l (350 ci). 180,000 miles and the entire drivetrain runs like a top. Only mod I've made is a K&N cold air intake.
Here's what I've done/changed recently (i.e. within the past 5k miles):
Fuel pump, OEM installed by dealer.Fuel filter.Ignition control module, BWD.Ignition coil, BWD.Crankshaft position sensor, GM OEM.Engine coolant temp sensor, BWD.Oxygen sensors (all four), GM OEM.Catalytic converter, replaced one of the two.Plug wires, BWD.Plugs, Delco OEM.Distributor cap and rotor, BWD.Cleaned ground connection (bolts to frame) for fuel pump.Alternator, new not reman.PCV valve.Battery.
Full diagnostics by a very qualified shop two weeks ago, no bleedback from injector spider, fuel pressure solid and holds perfectly. After 90 minutes of troubleshooting, the mechanics finally gave up.
One last thing with potential that I can think of is that I started running ethanol-free gas around the same time this issue surfaced. Not at the exact time, but at a relatively similar time. Gas mileage has increased by 40% and power increased, hard to blame "bad gas."
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I have a 03 vw jetta gli and whenever the engine is warm when it was recently on, takes a while to start like 3-5 second but normal when it is a cold start..
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I have a 06 Passat with a V6 with 80K on it. Recently I have been getting intermittent stalling at start up, only when the engine is warm(but once on a really hot day). The car will rev slightly and stall. After several attempts, it will start, and then it runs fine. VW service said no error codes and didn't offer much more.
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