GMC - Sierra :: 2007 - Engine Hot AC Turned Off Warning
May 27, 2011
I have a 2007 model, new body style Sierra wt, that has a 4.3 v6, it has 62000. miles, and it has been giving me a (enjine hot a/c turned off warning) and will not let the ac work,
This problem is not a true over heating issue and is happening intermittently, even on a cold start it will sometimes give me this error message and when this is happening it will not register the temp on the gauge, but will activate the electric fans.
I am thinking this is a short at some point or a loose connector but where to look.
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My grandson keep his 93 GMC K1500 w/5.7L auto running till he gets out of college. The problem is the engine stalls (sometimes) when put into gear (D or R) and more often when the lights and heater blower are turned on. There were two codes in the pcm (42 & 43) both referring to ignition problems. We did a tune up and erased the codes. After driving the truck for a week the pcm has no codes but the engine still stalls. We cleaned the IAC pintel and seat thinking there might be an air control problem, no luck. The repair manual mentioned ignition advance as a problem particularly the ESC. The manual says this part is on the side of the throttle body but we can not find it.
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2001 sierra 2wd ext. cab. over 300 km. 5.3 motor auto .... Battery charged, everything is working when key is on, but nothing happens when key is turned to start. Clicking noise can be heard in 5 pin fuse relay located on left side dash fuse panel.. How do I check it? Could have something to do with anti theft system?
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I just bought this nicely used 1991 GMC Sierra 1500 series pickup truck for $650. It started up and ran fine when I gave the seller the money - the few leaks in the break lines.
Easy fix right!
So my son (19 that knows it all) and I went and changed all the brake lines (made everything one size 3/8 line.) Filled it up with break fluid and started the truck. I had my so pumping the breaks and holding them (his first time) I bled the far rear (passenger side) then I had him turn the steering wheel to the right so I could bleed the front driver side.
He turned, and turned and turned until the engine died.
Now the truck only runs when the steering wheel is turned all the way to the right or all the way to the left.
Going to pull the codes to see what the heck is going on....
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So this morning when I started my car for work, the engine warning light turned on.....Last night it was perfectly fine. What surprised me was the car is only 3500 miles in. Why encountered the engine light issue this early in their ownership of the IS?
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I've replaced rusted out brake lines on my 1998 GMC Sierra 1500. I bled the system properly and every thing seems to run fine and brakes good. But the brake warning light stays on in the dash and buzzer is on. What to do to turn these off...
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Just today AC started blowing air rapidly from the vents when I didn't have the AC on. The AC continued to run even after I had turned off the engine and took out the key. In fear of my battery dying I unplugged it but as soon as I plugged it back in to drive home from work it was the same thing. Where should I start?!
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Problem just started last night when I turned the defroster on. Now the engine cuts off when the air is turned on at lower speed/rpms.
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2007 with 123,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago the engine About two weeks ago the engine light turned on. I took it into an auto parts store so they could use the digital code reader, it said the upstream O2 sensor needed to be replaced. I replace it and still have bad gas mileage, the second time I had it read with the code read it said both of the O2 sensors were bad so I replaced the downstream one week later. There was still bad gas mileage and the code reader still said it was both of the O2 sensors, the auto part's representative said when the engine light is on that the computer turns off the O2 sensors so he recommended to erase the codes on my car with the code reader (I pushed the button and he looked away). Still nothing changed so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to restart the computer. Still horrible gas mileage with no engine light anymore. Gas mileage averages about 15 mpgs in city and 32-35 on the highway. The highway seems about right but I've never seen any mpg below 30 for city mpg before this problem. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow cleaner after dealing with the O2 sensor. All preventive maintenance is kept up by me and I have had no problems with this car before. Water pump replacement, timing belt replacement, and transmission flush have occurred in the last ~50,000 miles.
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About 3 weeks ago my car,a 2007 saturn vue 6cyc., started making banging noises in the glove box when I start the car. The noise last for about 10 seconds and is very loud. The car runs great, no problems.
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I turned off the engine and I get a whirring sound, quite loud, that seems to be coming from the top of the engine around where the injectors are.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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At the time of starting the engine up, there is a warning "OIL MAINT. REQD SOON" but it goes away after when the motor is running. How to turn it off?
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This afternoon my 2007 made a long beep, popped up the red brake, traction control, ! triangle, ABS, VSC and check engine lights. It followed up by the gas engine cutting out and we had to coast to a shady spot (over 112 degrees at the time). After we pushed it into a parking spot we tried to turn the car on and off and it wouldn't allow us to change it to drive or reverse.
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The vehicle: 2007 Tundra, 5.7, 4WD, SR5, 71K miles
The issue: The Check Engine, VSC and 4LO indicators came on abruptly within 5 minutes of the first start-up of the day and after driving ~ 1/2 mile on paved road. Weather conditions: high humidity and unseasonable high ambient temperature.
What has been done: Immediately returned home. My local "guy" stopped by with his code checker. Codes that came up: C10201 and P2440 (Wheel sensor and secondary air pump, I am unsure which is which). Codes were cleared, indicators went off. Within 0.2 mile of driving "around the block" the same indicators and codes came on. My local guy recommended a trip to the dealer for repair as he would have to get sensors/parts from Toyota and be replacing sensors until the problem was repaired (I respect him for that).
The question: what is the guesstimated cost for dealer repair? The truck can be operated in a "failure" mode and can get to the local dealer under it's own (reduced) power.
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I have 2008 LS 460 and replace engine oil warning light comes on every 3,000 miles. I plan on changing oil every 5,000 miles. How can I change warning to coincide? What are thoughts on changing every 7,500 if no pulling or hills? I am using synthetic Royal Purple. Is it worth the cost?
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I always take care of my car oil changes on time. And in the last week my check engine light turned on for a few hours then turned off. And today it turned on again. I kinda regret getting rid of my scan gauge now.
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I was on my way to TN for vacation. Car 2008 ES 350 with 49,000 miles had just been to dealer for new battery 1 week before. Driving on I95 and check engine light and 2 other lights came on and smoke came out of hood but temp gage stayed at C even though car was overheating.
Got off hwy and discovered there was no coolant. Bought correct coolant and put it in. Got back on hwy and car started to smoke so pulled off and fortunately car died at end of ramp rather than in the middle of interstate. Had to be towed 50 miles to Lexus dealer who told me that water pump failed and heat destroyed engine. I'm away from home in shock without a car. How a 2008 with only 49,000 miles impeccably maintained could all of a sudden overheat without warning.
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I have a 1991 gmc 1/2 ton with 200K on it. Its a 350 engine. The engine has been stumbling for a long time. I've tried many things ...new fuel pump and filter...complete tune up.....checked all vacuum lines..replaced a couple lines...EGR valve.....changed head gasket and intake gasket. Checked the warm up flap inside the air cleaner. I am now very very frustrated.
This stumbling happens often but intermittent also....sometimes worse than other times like the truck is about to stall. The truck seems like its being held back like a loss of power. The truck will begin to stumble so i will pull over and rev it up and it seems to clear itself for a short while then right back to stumbling.
Upon warmup in the morning she seems to run fine until hot. No codes being thrown ...service engine light NOT on. Even while at a stop i will hold the throttle part way and revs at different rpms. I am now at a loss and feel defeated.
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I have a 2001 GMC Sierra with a starting problem: When you've driven it long enough for the engine to reach about 210 degrees, if you stop the truck it won't start back up until the engine has cooled down to about 200. It only does this when it's over 80 degrees outside, though.
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This engine will not start unless we dump gas into carburetor. Changed the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel regulator. At the shraeder valve we are getting 20psi. I hear that it only needs to be at 10-12psi to run. What else is controlling fuel to being dumped into the engine!
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