GMC - Sierra :: 2004 - Engine Lugs / Chugs In Wet Weather
Nov 24, 2014
So I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 RWD named Beulah and she is quite the beast... She's got over 260,000 miles (given to me by my father after he used it as a work truck, so mostly highway mileage) and a few little kinks and issues. The one at hand today is some lugging/chugging of the engine usually after wet weather. I live near Lake Michigan and we just got dumped on by lake effect snow, but over this weekend it warmed up and we got quite a bit of rain. After this rain, I went to drive my truck and while it starts just fine and idles just fine, for about 10 or so minutes of initial driving, while at speeds anywhere from 0-30 miles an hour or so, Beulah seems to run a little rough. It almost sounds like she's lugging a bit or something's sticking in her engine. After about 10 minutes or so of driving it seems to fade away so my guess is its just some moisture getting into something and eventually evaporating from the heat of the engine. My questions are 1. Is this bad for my truck? 2. Is there a way to prevent this without spending a fortune?
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
View 2 Replies
2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
View 1 Replies
Truck is an extended cab, 8' box, 4x4
This truck has begun to not start in cold weather. No click of the solenoid, no starter movement. Dash lights all work, heater, wipers, etc. I put a space heater in the cab, on the drivers side floor board, warmed it up and then it would start.
View 1 Replies
Will the wheels for 2012 fx4 fit my 2004 lariat 6 lugs?
View 2 Replies
I recently got the EGR system in my 1998 Rav4 working (replaced VSV) after driving with it non-functioning for several years. Without the system functioning, the engine ran great, but fuel efficiency suffered. Now, when the engine is warm only, the engine knocks and lugs between 1000 and 2000RPMs. This usually occurs right when I shift into 2nd gear. There are no engine trouble codes.
View 8 Replies
It has been very cold and snowy recently. This morning when I left for work it was about -6 degrees F. After about 15 miles into a 55 mile trip down a snow free road with a 70 mph speed limit I had an unusual experience. Cruise is set at 75 (based on GPS), had to slow down to negotiate around a couple of triple trailer trucks. When I selected resume with the cruise, the engine revved and then cut in and out as it tried to accelerate to 70 mph.
No trouble lights or dashboard warnings. I turned off the cruise, and feathered the throttle and edged back to 75 mph, and then reset cruise. I rolled down the road for another 10 without issue. I again tried to duplicate the problem and I was unable to reproduce the engine cut out. When it malfunctioned, it felt as if the ignition was switched on and off. What might cause this erratic engine behavior?
View 9 Replies
I have a 87 Honda crx si that the blower works in setting 1-2 but in setting 3-4 it kills the car I check the altenator witch was bad and replaced it witch should of fixed the problem previous owner said he had replace it once before. when you turn the heater to the 3rd setting in idle the car lugs down a little and if u give it gas it instantly kills it 4th setting won't work at all...
View 7 Replies
Just wondering if this is normal or not. I have a 2007 Sonata GLS. Recently I replaced the front and rear pads with ceramic pads and new rotors in the rear. My question is, is it normal for the brakes to heat up to the point that the lugs nuts are hot to the touch. As far as I know I am not doing any hard braking just normal driving in the city. But when I touch the rims and especially the lugs, they are hot and can burn to the touch. Is this because of the ceramic pads?
View 14 Replies
I am putting steel wheels all around on my 99 dually. I want to look like police crown Vic's with black wheels Crome center caps. My current caps will not clip to steel wheels.
Is the center caps that will clip over the lugs on a dually?
View 3 Replies
I have a 1991 gmc 1/2 ton with 200K on it. Its a 350 engine. The engine has been stumbling for a long time. I've tried many things ...new fuel pump and filter...complete tune up.....checked all vacuum lines..replaced a couple lines...EGR valve.....changed head gasket and intake gasket. Checked the warm up flap inside the air cleaner. I am now very very frustrated.
This stumbling happens often but intermittent also....sometimes worse than other times like the truck is about to stall. The truck seems like its being held back like a loss of power. The truck will begin to stumble so i will pull over and rev it up and it seems to clear itself for a short while then right back to stumbling.
Upon warmup in the morning she seems to run fine until hot. No codes being thrown ...service engine light NOT on. Even while at a stop i will hold the throttle part way and revs at different rpms. I am now at a loss and feel defeated.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2001 GMC Sierra with a starting problem: When you've driven it long enough for the engine to reach about 210 degrees, if you stop the truck it won't start back up until the engine has cooled down to about 200. It only does this when it's over 80 degrees outside, though.
View 5 Replies
One of the many things that impresses me about the 6.7 is how well it lugs...... it'll run right down to near 1,000 rpm in 6th gear and stay there till it absolutely has to shift. Like a diesel should. Well, recently, and now more frequently my truck is making some strange noises when it lugs down. It'll mainly do it if I'm towing light, like my flat trailer empty, or maybe if I have a decent load in the bed. But occasionally it'll do it empty. As soon as it lugs down low to 1,000-1,200 and pulls there for a few seconds you'll hear a couple squeaks, then a kinda chugchugchugchug noise. It immediately quits if you let off or make it shift down. It sounds like a turbo-related noise, but I don't really know. Truck only has 9k miles on it. I just know this is one of those things I'll take it back to the dealer and they'll give me the ol "we can't duplicate the problem here." What it could be?
View 8 Replies
This engine will not start unless we dump gas into carburetor. Changed the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel regulator. At the shraeder valve we are getting 20psi. I hear that it only needs to be at 10-12psi to run. What else is controlling fuel to being dumped into the engine!
View 3 Replies
I have a 2007 model, new body style Sierra wt, that has a 4.3 v6, it has 62000. miles, and it has been giving me a (enjine hot a/c turned off warning) and will not let the ac work,
This problem is not a true over heating issue and is happening intermittently, even on a cold start it will sometimes give me this error message and when this is happening it will not register the temp on the gauge, but will activate the electric fans.
I am thinking this is a short at some point or a loose connector but where to look.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2004 GMC Sierra and I have noticed throughout the winter when I ran it in 4WD the steering would get very stiff when trying to turn. Sometimes I could not turn very sharp at all. What the problem could be that is causing this?
View 1 Replies
We have been having issues with my son's 97 Sierra running rough when it is cold/damp. It feels like the engine is missing.
Today, which is warm and dry, it started running really bad and it was all he could do to limp it home. It seemed like it wanted to idle fine but when he tried to rev it up the tach would start jumping and it seemed like it was missing.
Could this be a bad cap/rotor? The engine has 200,000 miles and we've never changed the cap/rotor. I changed the plugs/wires probably 100,000 miles ago.
View 2 Replies
My truck has been having idle surge, low engine power, says stable tracks is off, computer said TPS pedal sensor. I replaced it. Within 3-4 days my truck does the same thing. I turn it off and eventually my truck runs fine with the exception of my engine light is on truck runs good. I put the computer on it again while the truck running bad and it continues to say it is the TPS sensor.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1 ton 2000 GMC sierra (old body style 99') 7.4 liter V-8 Gasser with the Allison 1000 tranny, 4x4. the engine will not crank over..
Battery was dead so I charged it, battery was holding 9v, so i hooked up jumper cables to my new car, gauge showed 12v, so I tried to start the truck.. the fuel pump, antilock brake system, and gauges came on.. as well as the "check engine light", "service engine soon", and battery light... I ensured the trans was in park, even tried neutral.. no crank.
I hooked up the mini scanner tool I have, and got no codes.. cleared the ECU/ECM anyways.. no crank.
I also tried swapping out my starter relay with the A/C relay, and pulling fuses to the ECU/ECM for 20 seconds to clear any issues/codes.. no crank
My next option is to clean the battery cables & terminals (or replace the cables), and replace the battery... the battery is only 2 years old.. due for replacement, but I'm kinda broke right now. The battery is one of those stupid side terminal ones with poor connections to begin with.. is there a top post terminal battery I can get to replace this POC? or will the posts hit the hood?
This is a plow truck, single battery setup (at the moment).. and the fisher 8' plow when running the hydraulic pump severly drains the battery.. lights dim severely, been wondering about a higher rated alternator (factory is rated at 120-140amps), larger power cables... etc.. dual battery system...
View 4 Replies
My 2001 Saab 9-3 (manual) won't start. It chugs and chugs and chugs but it won't catch. We've figured out that it isn't the fuel pump, but nobody can figure out why it won't start.
View 4 Replies
My Sierra has the 5.7 Vortec engine with 230,000 miles. Ever since I bought the truck at 208k I've been having a random No-Start condition... It can be cold, warm, or not ran for weeks. I've replaced the Fuel pump (just the pump, not the sender too), MAP sensor, ICM, TPS, and Camshaft position sensor. I'm still thinking its a fuel issue. I get 61 PSI at the test port when ignition is on, 55 when cranking, and 54 while running.
View 3 Replies
