GMC - Sierra :: 2003 - Loud Pop When Lowered Driver Side Power Window
Jan 19, 2013
I have a 2003 GMC Sierra with 146,000 miles. Yesterday morning when I lowered the driver side window, I heard a loud pop. After which the window would not go up when I pulled on the up button. However, when I pushed the DOWN button the window went back up. This was to me a good thing. It stayed up until this morning when while trying the passenger window I accidentally touched the driver side switch It dropped a little then slowly went down about a half inch as I drove. Luckily when I pressed the down button it went back up again. I've Benn told it is the window regulator.
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My passenger side power window does not work from the drivers side control, but works from the passenger control. I replaced the master switch on the driver side and it still does not work. I have checked the fuses--Side, below and under the hood and have even found inline fuses below--all were good. Could the dealer have to program my new switch? I do not have child safety locks.
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I have a 2006 Sonata LX that has a problem with the driver's side power window.
It will either lower and then not come back up, or not lower when the button is pressed.
Most of the time the button is tilted downward.
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The driver side track on the bottom of the window has rusted out on my 1994 GMC Sierra pickup. Every place I've talked to that is supposed to handle glass repairs either doesn't fix this kind of thing or just plain doesn't want to attempt to fix it. The only advice one place would offer is to buy a new window with a good track on it, but how to get the old one out without breaking it or putting a new one in. I know they sell just the track for these windows, but I don't know how to remove the old one without breaking the glass.
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I drive an '04 with about 86k. Shortly after I hit 85k i got into an accident that required both drivers side doors and the drivers window to be replaced. 2 weeks ago I noticed that my driver's window was excessively loud going up and slower to rise than the other windows. Upon closer inspection it seems that the rubber surround at the front part of the window gets bunched up requiring the motor to work harder to get the window all the way up. I fear that it is only a short time before the motor fails and the window becomes useless.
I plan to go back to the body shop and have them take a look at it. I am not fully sure if they caused the problem, my common sense tells me that the drivers window ought to be the first to fail, seeing as it gets used the most (garage tickets, drive throughs etc. But I am hesitant to replace the motor if the repairs were done improperly causing it to burn out). How much the motor runs? I am guessing that this will not be a cheap repair, but my hope is that the body shop will at least do the labor for free seeing as they replaced the window and the door and I now have this problem. I have to take the car back anyways, they replaced the fender and it is loose at the top.
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower.
I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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The drivers side power window in my truck is up and will not lower. I took off the interior/trim panels. Accessed the power connector for the window motor.
I can hear the relay cycling. when I put a meter on the power connector, I get voltage applied for the "up" condition, no voltage for the "down" function.
Sounds like a bad relay to me. What say the wizards? Where is the relay located?
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Had window on drivers side all the way down. Went to push button to raise. Window gets gets half way up and I hear a loud snap! I continue to push button and raised window all the way up. Now I hear wind and whistle sound. Does not seem to be as tight? Afraid to lower window as it may not raise again... Does this sound like the typical window regulator failure? My warranty coverage "excludes " window regulators, go figure. Their brochure says window motors and regulators covered. The actual signed contract excludes regulators? 2004 V8......
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Is there a way to repair an individual switch on the drivers master window switches, or do I I have to replace entire 4 switch and window lock set?
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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I have a set of ST that were put on a year ago. I raised them up in October for the winter. This past Saturday I lowered the car back down. As soon as I did I have the loud noise coming from the front passenger side.
I know it's not the top hats because I had that issue and replaced it and not the same noise. It is not the clunk that people associate with springs.
The noise seems to happen when spring/strut expand and retract.
Called ST today and they said if I had the car all the way down it is my fault. WTF? Why would you make a coil that is adjustable and the customer is able to go all the way down and then say it's my fault IF strut is blown?
The car drives straight and smooth so I dunno if it is blown. Could it be because of a build up of crap between the springs over winter (I saw some.)
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My sister has a 2003 gmc sierra and the 12 way body plug in the fuse panel inside drivers door on dash isn't getting power. Where that section of fuse box gets power from? The rest works its just the 12 plug???
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My 03 taco has a problem with the driver side window not going up sometimes, or a little bit at a time. It's automatic. Is it a switch issue? The motor?
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Having an issue with my 97 f150 its a 4x4 with 4.6L engine the issue is my driver side window keeps going down by itself. I changed the switch and relay for the power windows and still doing same thing?
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I have a 97 expedition It started a month ago crossing the border, I stopped at customs booth drivers side window would not go down. During the next couple of days the drivers side window would go down by itself, and I would have to bring the window back up. I have done alot of research on line everyone was telling me it was the GEM Module.
The window switch is good and the window regulator is good. Brought to my neighborhood mechanic, he said he was 90% sure that it was the GEM Module, he even said that he was tapping on the GEM Module and the window would go down on it's own. I decided to order a GEM Module online to fit my vehicle, received it on Saturday, installed it. [found no moisture around module] Same Problem, window would not go down. Now I have the drivers side motor unplugged from the switch.
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1998 f150 4x4 the drivers window is stuck up. It clicks by the up button but not the down button. The pass window works fine by both buttons, the door locks work fine. Took out the switch it tests with a ohm meter fine. The switch has power to it. I took out the window motor jumpered it to the battery and it works in both directions. Manually ran the window up and down and it moves freely. I swapped the relays under the dash and everything operates the same. I'm not sure where to go next for trouble shooting this problem.
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The power window on the passenger front side will go down using the switch on that door, but, I have to put it up using the switch on the driver's side. What is happening?
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Just purchased a used 2003 camry 2.0G A/T. The driver's side window slides down well when using the auto button, but gets stuck 1/4 way on the way up. Have to wait a while before holding the button to slide it up all the way. What might be wrong and how I can correct?
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I have a 2003 Grand Marquis and recently the drivers window stopped working. The last time I recall trying to use it and getting some response was around a week ago to check and see if my window was frozen shut. When the headlights are on, all of my window controls light up except for the drivers window. When the button is depressed to raise the window I feel a slight vibration through the floor.
I'm a complete novice when it comes to car repair, but is this something I could potentially fix myself? Or how much would I be looking at to get this fixed otherwise?
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Found a related thread but ....a year later and no update? [URL] .....
Anyhow, today my 97 F150 XLT became possessed and the DS window started coming down by itself at random. Make for an exciting ride when the weather is in the teens!
My first thought was the wires at the door but it's been too cold to dig into it today. Will look when it warms up a bit. I need to pull out the manuals but don't think the PW should go through the GEM?
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I have a 2002 F-150 SC and the drivers side window quit working yesterday. All the other windows work fine and I can't see where anything else is not working. The only other thing that quit prior to this window problem was the cruise control quit a while back.
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